theoldpaths

I have a 90' LS400 that loses speaker volume when it is rainy outside. I can turn the volume all the way up and can just barley hear it. It doesn't mater if I'm listening to the radio or CD, same problem.

I think opening and closing trunk helped at one point. My wife was in the car, and as I open and closed the trunk, she said it got better for a second.

I don't think I have ever had this happen on a dry day.

Any ideas?

Thank you

New gas cap did the trick, thanks.

I found a local locksmith (http://www.robbinslockshop.com/) cut my Ebay blank for $25.

I would call around your local, larger, locksmiths. Make sure you tell them yours does not have chip in it (they all assume that it does as it is a Lexus).

And about the smell, is it JUST on start-up? or ALL the time no matter what?

All the time when it is hot outside. I have noticed that the smell is diminished when it is cooler outside.

...one more thing. It never hisses when removing the cap in warm weather.

Thanks

I have searched for this problem in forums, and it does not appear to be common issue.

My 1990 LS400 has a fuel smell that is generally coming from the passenger rear side of the car when it warmer outside. I do not see any sign of leaking fuel on the pavement. The cap seems to be seated good when screwed in.

What could be causing this smell? I want to make sure this is not an unsafe situation for my family, and it's just plain stinky at times. :o

Thanks for all the great information here on this site.

bump

Can someone tell me where to find it? I have a 1990 LS400

Thanks

Where is it located? I think mine needs to be replaced.

There is a slight fuel odor coming from the rear of my 90' LS400

Are there any tutorials out there on changing to AC compressor? What kind of freon does a 90' take?

Thanks

Do either of you have a check engine light on?

Last summer when the oxygen sensors went out on my 1992 LS, the car started running on a very rich fuel mixture. This hurt gas mileage and there was a very strong gas smell whenever I was outside of the car while it was running.

Nope, no check engine light and it runs great.

The fuel smell tends to be coming from the passenger side near the rear of the car, sometimes we can smell it inside of the car.

Also, Is the fuel tank suppose to build up pressure? I have never heard a hiss when removing gas cap.

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Evap system is probably clogged, canister full, plugged, etc or the hose has come loose. That might also account for your gas guage not reading full. Ever have trouble getting gas to flow into the tank when filling up? That would indicate the same problem.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

None of those "other" problems about the fuel gauge.

And I just have fuel fumes coming out from underneath my car area when my car is running. You just can't smell it so much outside because it's so open but when you pull into the garage you can smell it a LOT regardless if the car has been sitting all night or if the car has been driven all day. Seems as if nobody has really had this problem.

Did you find out the problem here?

I have a slight fuel odor and I can't really tell were it is coming from. It tends to be stronger on warm days, and when tank has more fuel in it. It really has my wife worried.

Anyone have any ideas? Were would I find canister that may be full of clogged?

I would replace the compressor before shavings get in your system. I would also replace the drier in case there is debris. and then pull a vacuum before replacing the freon.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/A-C-Compres...tem160224608275

Ok, thanks!

I am not real proficient in auto repair. Would this be basically unbolt old one and bolt on the new one? It looks real tight down there.

Is the clutch engaging when you turn on the A/C? Is it staying engaged or disengaging quickly?

Thanks for the reply

How can I tell? I'm sorry, I know carpentry and computers but not a whole lot about cars.

The clutch is the black thing that is on the front of the compressor. Look under the hood while the engine is running, then have someone turn on the A/C. The thing that starts turning is the clutch.

Ok, today while driving about 35mph I turned the AC on and it did not seem to bog the engine down at all, but I do hear something that sounds like bad bearings.

While parked and idling, I turned AC on, this time it did not bog engine down. The clutch is turning when AC is on, but also makes a sound (loose marbles) like bad bearings when turned on.

Where would you say the bearings are? Does that mean I have to replace whole compressor, or can that be repaired?

What happens at 35mph when you switch on the ac? Any loss of power?

I have not tried that. I will check tonight on the way home and let ya know....

Is the clutch engaging when you turn on the A/C? Is it staying engaged or disengaging quickly?

Thanks for the reply

How can I tell? I'm sorry, I know carpentry and computers but not a whole lot about cars.

I have a 90 LS400.

When I turn on AC, the car bogs down and dies. Do I need to replace the whole AC compressor or could it be a "simple" problem?

Thank you

I live about 20 minutes from Muskegon, so I know all about "Blowing snow and ICE", and I will say it again, these cars need snow tires. I have Yokohama iceGuard IG10 on all four and it really grips better than I thought it would. I bought my LS this fall and was nervous leading up to winter with this car, but with these tires I have no problem at all. By the way, I never use the traction control.

Left this morning to go to Fort Wayne Indiana from Muskegon Michigan. I have new Michelin Pilots on my LS and there was 2 to 3 inches of fresh snow on the roads. 30 minutes into the trip I aborted because I was not comfortable with the way it was riding..(Blowing snow and ICE) Even with the traction control in the SNOW mode. Quite frankly the LS has too much power to the rear wheels to handle well on ICY roads with These PILOTS on....

I have a 91 LS400 with Yokohama iceGuard IG10 on all four, and it is doing good so far here in Michigan. They got me to church Sunday morning after waking up to about 9 inches of new snow. I am really surprised at how good it is in the snow so far this winter.

Has anyone actually "tested" the theory that running on regular unleaded cuts your fuel mileage?

In my LS400 98 running on regular gives me 1 mile per gallon LESS of mileage.

Tested 700 miles on Premium against 600 miles on Regular

Based on what you say then:

Premium - 20 gal x $3.40 = $68

Regular - 20 gal x $3.00 = $60

Premium - 460 miles @ 23mpg

Regular - 440 miles @ 22mpg

(based on 1 mpg less using regular)

Premium - $68 / 460 = 15 cents per mile

Regular - $60 / 440 = 14 cents per mile

Hmmm... I think I will stick with Premium for the money.

Has anyone actually "tested" the theory that running on regular unleaded cuts your fuel mileage?

1990 LS400

1. Bigger cup holder

2. Better lumbar support in seats

3. Switch to turn on lights in back seat area while driving (something only a daddy would want or care about).

Sounds like you need a new battery. It still has enough "life" in it to start in warm weather, but cold temperatures require more from the battery which sounds like it doesn't have. You can get the battery tested for free at most Walmart or Autozone. If the battery is bad, and you are going to be in the cold for a length of time, get one with at least 700 CCA.

What is the correct idle speed when cold and when fully "warmed up". Mine idles at about 1700 when first started cold, and that seems high. It really "clunks" into drive when idling at that speed and I don't always have time to sit and wait for it to warm up.

I think the correct idle is about 650 +- 50 at idle in or out of gear w/AC off. AC may raise your idle to about 750 but it usually stabalizes. Lights may alter the idle a minute amount. The idle is set by the ECU so I dont think the TPS would affect the true idle circuit. The IAC just meters a small amount of air around the closed throttle plate and the injectors get a short duty cycle from the ECU. I dont know of any "hardware" fix to raise or lower the programmed idle. I would seriously consider a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak will cause the idle to be very lean as the iac would get a signel from the ECU to close becasue it already sees air in the intake, kinda complicated, but a vacuum leak in a carbureted motor causes a high idle that is very lean and has absolutely no power. You can look at the vacuum hose diagram on the hood and start pinching soft lines with a plier to see if you can isolate the leak. Do it while idling to see if any pinched lines casue the idle to raise. That or a bad coil, does the exhaust smell of strong unburned gas? Bummer....You can also try and reset the ECU, just pull the negative cable for about 30 minutes.

So it should be about 650rpm cold? Mine is about that when warm, but seems very high before warming up.

What is the correct idle speed when cold and when fully "warmed up". Mine idles at about 1700 when first started cold, and that seems high. It really "clunks" into drive when idling at that speed and I don't always have time to sit and wait for it to warm up.

There are some great tutorials over at lexls.com

I have taken advantage of a couple of them and they are very helpful...and they have lots of pictures. :whistles: