kluthage421

I have changed mine every 30k including the filter ($30) and just recently switched to Amsoil Synthetic ATF, which made my transmission noticeably smoother. Make sure to drop the pan, try to put it in a solvent tank and clean off the magnets. Put on a new gasket with the proper adhesive and your good to go.

I was hoping you weren't ;)

I've reached 143 on the road with my 2000. At that point the air force is too much for the engine.

All I have to say is you are awesome and I will be ordering the cluster....Today! Thank you. Although the car is an automatic, it is very important to monitor your RPMs. A mechanic laughed when I told him it was broken and asked why I needed it. If this works, this thread should be "stickyed" at the top. Found one on eBay for $50 after shipping ~80)

best to change them even if they look good as the saying goes looks can fool ya and yea true that if you press the button for the sunroof it open half way, push it again all the way. It;s for those who dont wanna let all the light in me i go all the way and put my hand out the window like i'm flying... i get looks when i do that B)

Yours goes halfway? I see we have a different model year. The 2000 operates differently.

I bought the parts myself for $175 including water pump, serpentine belt, tensioner, idler pulley, cam and crankshaft seals and had Pennzoil put it all on for $250.

Cheapest place for parts is parts.com or here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214082

I just wanted to add a few thoughts to this forum. First, I just put a complete timing belt kit (timing, serpentine, water pump, pulleys, crank/cam seals) on at 113.5k. The belts looked good. It was 23k past the recommended interval.

Also, once the sunroof fully opens, if you push the open button again it will go back another 1/2 inch. Not much, but why not enjoy as much spring as possible ~80)

2000gauges.pdf

You can try to ohm out the windings on the tach, then as a quick check for the input, you could try using the ac range on a DVM. I have not tried this before (I have access to a scope) but I would guess that you should measure ac volts while the engine is running. So hook up a meter while the key is on, engine off and note the volt (should be zero), then start the car. You should see voltage at that time. The voltage will not change at you rev the engine, but it should read something.

Hi were you successful in fixing the rpm guage? I have the same problem on my 98 es300. RPM is completely at 0 so it seems to be electrical but not completely sure.

No. I have not had time. I seem to have forgotten about it but, when spring rolls around every little annoyance is going to be fixed.

I had the Bridgestone Potenza RE960's before the Continental ExtremeContact DW's I just fitted and the Conti's are better.

Check out the charts from Tire Rack:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/chartD...ay.jsp?ttid=115

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/chartD...ay.jsp?ttid=120

The Conti's stop 23 feet shorter in wet, over 7 feet shorter dry, and pull .11 G's more in the wet...Stopping distance is a huge seller for me because it can mean the difference between an accident and a close call. I hit 110 in them already and they are smooth and hitting the apex of turns is very easy. Somehow my Bridgestones became out of round, would thump every rotation when cold until warming up, and vibrated around 60-80mph. My pocket is not happy because these tires are just too much fun. I must say at 36 PSI the tires are less harsh then my Bridgestones as well.

What is also interesting is the Continental's are $20 cheaper. If you need snow use look at the ExtremeContact DWS which adds class destroying cold weather performance.

Hello,

I just wanted to add some information to the wonderful forum database. I put some 225/55/16 Continental ExtremeContact DW's on my '00 ES300 today and took them out for a rather spirited drive and I must say they are awesome. I can't get the traction control to come on unless on gravel or wet road, they are smooth and quiet, and the stopping distance is amazing. I had the gas FLOORED around a cloverleaf and the back end came out just slightly. I also have KYB GR2's on which might help a bit ~;0) I was moderately concerned about rubbing but they fit just fine. They are classified as an Max Performance Summer tire, so we will see! I will report back in a few months to give an update. I think it is important to share reviews because other's were really helpful in deciding which tires to buy. Spring is almost here!

[bR]

Yes, if you use a DVM, the procedure is the same. Now when you say that you pulled the dash, and checked connections. Are you talking about the main electrical connectors, or did you take the back off and GENTLY tighten all the screws?

Yes, the main connectors. I checked to make sure they were all connected properly an cleaned the contacts.

2000gauges.pdf

You can try to ohm out the windings on the tach, then as a quick check for the input, you could try using the ac range on a DVM. I have not tried this before (I have access to a scope) but I would guess that you should measure ac volts while the engine is running. So hook up a meter while the key is on, engine off and note the volt (should be zero), then start the car. You should see voltage at that time. The voltage will not change at you rev the engine, but it should read something.

Ohm out the windings? I found a YouTube video of a guy doing it on an air compressor.

Just wanted to say it has been 8400 miles since my last oil change in my 2000 ES and no problems at all. I always clean it out with sea foam for 250 miles before an oil change with AMSoil and regularly push the car to high rpms. She does 140mph just fine ~80) 103k on her now and running smoothly. The entire throttle body has been cleaned, sea foam in the PCV valve, brake booster hose and gas tank regularly. I am going to change the oil today to see how everything looks. Didn't mean for it to go this long. I might open the crank case to check out everything. Good week to all...

Generally there is no individual fuse for the tach, you forgot to put the year down, so I cannot give any specifics.

Whoops! Sorry about that. It is a 2000. Thank you!

Hello,

Thank you in advance for any help.

I was driving the other day and my tachometer stopping working all of a sudden. I have removed the entire gauge cluster to check the contacts--no luck. I don't think there is an individual fuse for tachometer. All other gauges work just fine. I'd rather not pay $500 for a new gauge cluster. Is there a sensor that determines the RPM's? Thank you.

Bryan

Taking out the rear seat is not difficult,, not sure if its neccessary or not, jack up the car, remove the wheel, find the sensor and follow the wire to see where it goes, somewhere along the way there will be a connector it may be in the wheel well, or it may be behind the seat, or even under some trim panel. There is a chance that the sensor design on the '00 is the same as it is for mine, if it is you can save some serious $$$$ by going to a junk yard. Reember that under all the glamour the es is still just a Camry..

Capn

Yes, that's correct Jack the car, remove the tire, unsrew the bolt that holds the sensor, follow the wire and the connector is behind the backside of the seat. Disconnect the connector then tie a string to the connector, slide it out through the hole by pulling it down and out. Then tie the new wire at the connector plug and pull gently through the hole and connect in Reversed manner. After installation you need to reset code, using paper clip at diagnostic panel and ignition key, follow your manual for instruction or simply using a scanner tool (OBD2) code reader. Same as the 1999 up to 2001 ES300 procedure. I have a used one if anyone needs it (free), let me check which side.

Thanks again. Just did the replacement and didn't even require string although I had it around.

First off, you should not retrofit non-HID's housings to accomodate HID's. It's illegal. If you modify non-HID housings to fit HID, you'll be blinding everyone else on the road. Here's more info: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVuSSdZNsZw

The only way to do it legally is to replace the entire housing and assembly with HID headlights designed for your vehicle (OEM or aftermarket).

Thanks for the helpful info. I wondered if that may be the case, but wasn't certain. I would have checked before installing anything, but that rules out an either/or option. Now, my question is, how labor intensive would it be to have OE or aftermarket ES300 housings for HIDs installed, replacing the current halogen setup? Would this require professional assistance, or would a DIY be possible, recommended?

"Someone I know" has HID bulbs and ballasts retrofitted in his car's halogen housings and they have not caused any problems and look fine. I must say they are rather bright and the beams were adjusted using a screwdriver to level the beams.

I'm with SKperformance's input on this. Asking 'can I put plus-sized wheels/tires on my vehicle and what will that do to my ride/performance?' is such a totally "loaded" question. There is no one-answer to this question, for it all depends on the hardware, the combination, and the fit-up. We have 18" custom wheels on our 1995 ES300, and it rides and drives BEAUTIFULLY!! It's smooth and quiet, never rubs, is responsive, doesn't pull with grooves in the roadway and is overall fantastic. On the other hand, I have RX330 factory wheels (18") on my RX300 (stock are 16" wheels) and it rides with a lot of road noise, it tracks with grooves and ruts in the pavement, and that's with a taller sidewall tire.... and that's with factory wheels.

There are some guiding principles with wheels:

Heavier wheels drive a little more solid due to rotating momentum and the gyroscopic effect, but they are harder on the vehicle's steering system to turn at speed, especially rapid turns. They are also harder on the suspension system due to more mass to have to deal with.

Heavier wheels result in more unsprung weight.

Taller sidewalls on tires result in more sluggish handling, but give a more compliant and soft ride

Shorter sidewalls on tires result in more crisp handling response, but give a more harsh ride

But all this is subjective (tire rubber compound has an effect as well as other factors), and could be very minimal in end effect. It could also be affected by offset and match-up of tire width with wheel width. I can't tell you how many little lowered cars I've seen where they stretch a narrow, low-profile tire onto a wide wheel... it looks like crap, and the tire's sidewall is all undercut. That's make the car ride very harsh.

If you are looking for aftermarket/custom wheels, go to the experts who know how to match up wheels and tires, which is http://www.tirerack.com or http://www.1010tires.com/ or www.discounttire.com ...not the Sear's guy.

One thing to note, I've read where there could be concerns that overall larger wheel/tire combinations can overpower the brakes on some vehicles, for the brakes were designed for a specific moment force (rotational force developed by the lever-arm distance from the hub of the wheel to the contact surface of the tire). This results in a safety hazard. I've seen many big Tahoe's with 20"+ wheels/tires on them with these little tiny (in comparison) single piston brake calipers poking between the spokes. Probably not a good combination. Plus-one or plus-two sizing probably won't cause any problems.

A little information and education on this topic will go a long way in how happy you are with your end result.

The alternative to putting larger rims on the vehicle is to lower it with some simple lowering springs. Maybe even put on some KYB GR2 struts while you are at it. It may increase the spring rate about 15% and will give you a low profile, possibly less drag which, can result in increased performance. There are some springs out there that will drop the front 1.1" and the rear about 0.9". Not too much but, just enough to give it a sleek look. Check out the '00-'01 ES 16" rims. They are very nice and are silver. Here is a link for them at a great price new: http://www.wheelsandcaps.com/w_selection.a...mp;_MODEL=ES300

Hope this provides a different perspective.

Just wondering if anyone has replaced theirs or knows how to change the right rear abs sensor in a '00 ES300. I found the part for a cheap $150 and would like to pop it in. I have heard it involves removing the back seat. Not sure. Thanks in advance.

Bryan Kluth

Thought I would share this...

http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?...or&siteid=2

They have all the OEM parts from Lexus just like all the other trademotion sites but, at a significantly better price.

Hello,

It's time for new tires. One shop offering me 2000-2001 ES chrome wheels $150 for one.

presently i have 205/65-15 He saying this is original lexus wheels but you have put new tires

205/60/16 total cost including wheels+tire(Michelin Primacy)+Tax=~$1300.

http://shop.wheelsrims.net/inventory-8759.html

Mileage on car is high (346XXX)

What should i do?

Thanks in advance.

http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?...playCatalogid=0

A little under $1100 for all 4....

Good price Lex parts:

http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?...or&siteid=2

Thought I would share this...

http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?...or&siteid=2

one between radiator and engine,

second between engine and firewall

Third after cat.

I replaced the one after the cat and the one in the front of the engine with Denso. I have yet to do the rear engine one. How do I determine if I need Air/Fuel Ratio sensors (Wide band O2) or normal oxygen sensors? I am receiving check engine code P1135 which, means the Bank 1 Sensor 1 is having heater circuit problems--the one that hasn't been replaced yet. Could this have been caused by not replacing all the sensors at once or could it have happened to coincidentally gone bad?

Thanks in advance.

Anyone?

one between radiator and engine,

second between engine and firewall

Third after cat.

I replaced the one after the cat and the one in the front of the engine with Denso. I have yet to do the rear engine one. How do I determine if I need Air/Fuel Ratio sensors (Wide band O2) or normal oxygen sensors? I am receiving check engine code P1135 which, means the Bank 1 Sensor 1 is having heater circuit problems--the one that hasn't been replaced yet. Could this have been caused by not replacing all the sensors at once or could it have happened to coincidentally gone bad?

Thanks in advance.