kluthage421

I have changed mine every 30k including the filter ($30) and just recently switched to Amsoil Synthetic ATF, which made my transmission noticeably smoother. Make sure to drop the pan, try to put it in a solvent tank and clean off the magnets. Put on a new gasket with the proper adhesive and your good to go.

I've reached 143 on the road with my 2000. At that point the air force is too much for the engine.

All I have to say is you are awesome and I will be ordering the cluster....Today! Thank you. Although the car is an automatic, it is very important to monitor your RPMs. A mechanic laughed when I told him it was broken and asked why I needed it. If this works, this thread should be "stickyed" at the top. Found one on eBay for $50 after shipping ~80)

Yours goes halfway? I see we have a different model year. The 2000 operates differently.

I bought the parts myself for $175 including water pump, serpentine belt, tensioner, idler pulley, cam and crankshaft seals and had Pennzoil put it all on for $250. Cheapest place for parts is parts.com or here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214082

I just wanted to add a few thoughts to this forum. First, I just put a complete timing belt kit (timing, serpentine, water pump, pulleys, crank/cam seals) on at 113.5k. The belts looked good. It was 23k past the recommended interval. Also, once the sunroof fully opens, if you push the open button again it will go back another 1/2 inch. Not much, but why not enjoy as much spring as possible ~80)

Hi were you successful in fixing the rpm guage? I have the same problem on my 98 es300. RPM is completely at 0 so it seems to be electrical but not completely sure. No. I have not had time. I seem to have forgotten about it but, when spring rolls around every little annoyance is going to be fixed.

I had the Bridgestone Potenza RE960's before the Continental ExtremeContact DW's I just fitted and the Conti's are better. Check out the charts from Tire Rack: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/chartD...ay.jsp?ttid=115 http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/chartD...ay.jsp?ttid=120 The Conti's stop 23 feet shorter in wet, over 7 feet shorter dry, and pull .11 G's more in the wet...Stopping distance is a huge seller for me because it can mean the difference between an accident and a close call. I hit 110 in them already and they are smooth and hitting the apex of turns is very easy. Somehow my Bridgestones became out of round, would thump every rotation when cold until warming up, and vibrated around 60-80mph. My pocket is not happy because these tires are just too much fun. I must say at 36 PSI the tires are less harsh then my Bridgestones as well. What is also interesting is the Continental's are $20 cheaper. If you need snow use look at the ExtremeContact DWS which adds class destroying cold weather performance.

Hello, I just wanted to add some information to the wonderful forum database. I put some 225/55/16 Continental ExtremeContact DW's on my '00 ES300 today and took them out for a rather spirited drive and I must say they are awesome. I can't get the traction control to come on unless on gravel or wet road, they are smooth and quiet, and the stopping distance is amazing. I had the gas FLOORED around a cloverleaf and the back end came out just slightly. I also have KYB GR2's on which might help a bit ~;0) I was moderately concerned about rubbing but they fit just fine. They are classified as an Max Performance Summer tire, so we will see! I will report back in a few months to give an update. I think it is important to share reviews because other's were really helpful in deciding which tires to buy. Spring is almost here! [bR]

Yes, the main connectors. I checked to make sure they were all connected properly an cleaned the contacts.

Ohm out the windings? I found a YouTube video of a guy doing it on an air compressor.

Just wanted to say it has been 8400 miles since my last oil change in my 2000 ES and no problems at all. I always clean it out with sea foam for 250 miles before an oil change with AMSoil and regularly push the car to high rpms. She does 140mph just fine ~80) 103k on her now and running smoothly. The entire throttle body has been cleaned, sea foam in the PCV valve, brake booster hose and gas tank regularly. I am going to change the oil today to see how everything looks. Didn't mean for it to go this long. I might open the crank case to check out everything. Good week to all...

Whoops! Sorry about that. It is a 2000. Thank you!

Hello, Thank you in advance for any help. I was driving the other day and my tachometer stopping working all of a sudden. I have removed the entire gauge cluster to check the contacts--no luck. I don't think there is an individual fuse for tachometer. All other gauges work just fine. I'd rather not pay $500 for a new gauge cluster. Is there a sensor that determines the RPM's? Thank you. Bryan

Yes, that's correct Jack the car, remove the tire, unsrew the bolt that holds the sensor, follow the wire and the connector is behind the backside of the seat. Disconnect the connector then tie a string to the connector, slide it out through the hole by pulling it down and out. Then tie the new wire at the connector plug and pull gently through the hole and connect in Reversed manner. After installation you need to reset code, using paper clip at diagnostic panel and ignition key, follow your manual for instruction or simply using a scanner tool (OBD2) code reader. Same as the 1999 up to 2001 ES300 procedure. I have a used one if anyone needs it (free), let me check which side. Thanks again. Just did the replacement and didn't even require string although I had it around.

Thanks for the helpful info. I wondered if that may be the case, but wasn't certain. I would have checked before installing anything, but that rules out an either/or option. Now, my question is, how labor intensive would it be to have OE or aftermarket ES300 housings for HIDs installed, replacing the current halogen setup? Would this require professional assistance, or would a DIY be possible, recommended? "Someone I know" has HID bulbs and ballasts retrofitted in his car's halogen housings and they have not caused any problems and look fine. I must say they are rather bright and the beams were adjusted using a screwdriver to level the beams.

The alternative to putting larger rims on the vehicle is to lower it with some simple lowering springs. Maybe even put on some KYB GR2 struts while you are at it. It may increase the spring rate about 15% and will give you a low profile, possibly less drag which, can result in increased performance. There are some springs out there that will drop the front 1.1" and the rear about 0.9". Not too much but, just enough to give it a sleek look. Check out the '00-'01 ES 16" rims. They are very nice and are silver. Here is a link for them at a great price new: http://www.wheelsandcaps.com/w_selection.a...mp;_MODEL=ES300 Hope this provides a different perspective.

Just wondering if anyone has replaced theirs or knows how to change the right rear abs sensor in a '00 ES300. I found the part for a cheap $150 and would like to pop it in. I have heard it involves removing the back seat. Not sure. Thanks in advance. Bryan Kluth

They have all the OEM parts from Lexus just like all the other trademotion sites but, at a significantly better price.

http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?...playCatalogid=0 A little under $1100 for all 4....

Good price Lex parts: http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?...or&siteid=2

http://www.turbofast.com.au/lexus.html

Thought I would share this... http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/index.cfm?...or&siteid=2

I replaced the one after the cat and the one in the front of the engine with Denso. I have yet to do the rear engine one. How do I determine if I need Air/Fuel Ratio sensors (Wide band O2) or normal oxygen sensors? I am receiving check engine code P1135 which, means the Bank 1 Sensor 1 is having heater circuit problems--the one that hasn't been replaced yet. Could this have been caused by not replacing all the sensors at once or could it have happened to coincidentally gone bad? Thanks in advance. Anyone?

I replaced the one after the cat and the one in the front of the engine with Denso. I have yet to do the rear engine one. How do I determine if I need Air/Fuel Ratio sensors (Wide band O2) or normal oxygen sensors? I am receiving check engine code P1135 which, means the Bank 1 Sensor 1 is having heater circuit problems--the one that hasn't been replaced yet. Could this have been caused by not replacing all the sensors at once or could it have happened to coincidentally gone bad? Thanks in advance.