Mike Hoop

I see the axle spinning all the way to the wheel, but the wheel doesn't turn. I can't see if the axle broke or the hub until I tear it apart tomorrow.

I meant es 250 sorry!! The other day while I was driving my car, the passenger side front axle broke at the hub. I see it spin in drive, but it fails to turn the wheel. Can anybody give me instructions or advice about this repair. I am not sure what I am going to see when I pull the wheel off. Will I need the hub or the axle assembly or both? Does anybody have a parts diagram for the hub and brake assembly? Besides the large bolt that will probably be holding the hub on, will I need any special tools to complete the repair? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike

I have a 1990 Lexus Ls 400, and when it is cold the pump whines really loud. Any suggestions?

thank you, this does help me, but is there any one else that could add some pics, I am no mechanic but I can turn a wrench if you know what I mean... I don't know the names of all the sesors therefore it would be difficult for me to use these instructions without pics...

I have a 1990 lexus ls 400 with 205,000 miles on it and still runs strong...

I'm replying to myself to seperate my two threads one of them is old and sounds almost the same as this one sorry.

+1 on the voltage drop testing. This seems to be a lost diagnostic technique. Glad you brought it up! Thank you for the help, however I did discver that the starter was faulty and proceded with the job. Sorry I have not responded in so long. I did try the voltage drop test before I replaced the starter, thank you for the info

I recently replaced the starter in my 1990 lexus ls 400. Wow what a job, I'm glad I won't have to do that for a while. Anyway, I put the engine back together fairly easily, and after putting the fuel rails and injectors back I noticed one plug in the middle of the fuel injector wiring harness that was not connected. I thought maybe as I put the rest of the components in it would eventialy become clear where its home was. However I never found its home and of coarse the car turns over but doesn't start... Its not the same plug as the injectors have, but it runs right along with those plugs. Maybe if I had a picture of a properly installed fuel rail and injector wiring harness I could figure it out. But for the meantime like I said its attached to the fuel injector wiring harness, and its a very short wire, so I don't think it can go to far, something must plug into it from above the wiring harness... Please help me with the pics and if anybody else has done this job before can you share some of the mistakes you made or tell me why there are 5 plugs on one side of the fuel injector wiring harness and only four on the other...

Well I took care of my own problem this time, the ground wire to the chasis was melted from holding the solenoid closed for too long (woops) And I think instead of the starter being bad its the starter relay in the fusebox under the hood

Hey this is the first thread that had a problem I knew about... Listen I had this problem it cost about 20$ to fix... Just go to auto zone and pick up a thermostat its so easy to do it took me ten minutes.. Don't forget to buy the gasket though

Well I took care of my own problem, the ground wire to the chasis was burnt from holding the solenoid closed for too long. (woops) And I'm pretty sure from reading some of the threads on here, that its not the starter, but the starter relay in the fuse box under the hood... Thanks I hope this can help someone else

help

I think my starter went bad, but after trying several time(and only getting a single click noise), everything just cut off, I have a brand new battery, connections, and cables so I think I might have fried something... The terminals on the batt did get kinda hot, and no I can't even get my dome light on... any clues

I love my 90 ls 400, and I cant' stand not driving it, the other day I went to start it and I got a single click and the connections on the batt became very hot... I inspected the new connections and batt, and everything was fine... I tried a couple of more times, and then everything went dead, checked all the fuses under hood and in car, and everythings ok...I spent $140 on that die- hard batt. and had It retested, It is not the reason I don't have power... I ordered the starter, but when I replace it how will I get power to it now... I don't even have a dome light right now, again I checked cables and connections and battery all those are good...do those relay switches in the fuse box under the hood have anything to do with that, or is there an internal switch that opens in case of an overload.. If so how do I replace diagnose or reset it... HELP

Thanx for your help guys, I will try the power steering fluid idea, as for the autobox Idea, the engine reaches normal temp, what sensor, or device would fail that would cause the trans fluid to run at a colder temp, or are you saying I should change out the fluid... And for Rfeldes, I am sorry I did not mean to offend I was just trying to eliminate the obvious, sorry....