edbro

Thanks for the tip. I bought the set the first time you recommended it as it was on sale then for only $10. I haven't used them yet though. How badly do they mangle the screw heads? Can I assume that after !Removed! them back in normally with a screwdriver that I won't need to use the Bolt Outs subsequent times?

Stolen from here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/t405771-ch...code_p0171.html

Brian R.05-13-2005, 09:26 PM

For P0171 code (easiest and cheapest first)

1. Check your air induction system for leaks or broken hoses/connections.

2. Put some injector cleaner into a tank of gasoline and see if that helps after you've gone through a tank of treated gas.

3. Buy some no-residue sensor or electronic contact cleaner (NAPA or elsewhere). Remove the connector from the MAF meter spray both sides of the connector thoroughly. Spray the cleaner into every possible exposed portion of the MAF meter in the intake tube and let the cleaner evaporate. Reconnect the MAF meter.

4. Test the engine coolant temperature sensor - replace if out of spec.

5. Check the manifold absolute pressure sensor - replace if out of spec.

6. Check your fuel pressure (not too likely to be the problem).

7. Replace the HO2/A-F ratio sensor with the correct sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - Get a part number from a Toyota parts department with your VIN.

8. Replace the MAF meter.

Somewhere along this process, the light should go out and stay out. Most commonly, it is cleaning the MAF meter and connector that solves the problem. Unfortunately, the light can go out for a short period and then reappear - making you think you solved the problem.

I've also been considering a Seafoam through the booster treatment. My only hesitation is that I recently had the plugs changed (at great expense thanks to the rear plugs crappy access). I heard there is a possibility of fouling the plugs after all that crap Seafoam breaks up and flows through the chambers. Should I worry about that?

Air conditioner on or off? Mine seems to make a heavy load on the engine at idle.

For Drive Indicator Light: (not my work, stolen from another site)

Follow these instructions and it should take you no longer than 15 minutes.

1. Remove 2 screws at the top of the black bezel around the cluster.

2. Pull trim piece straight out on the left of the steering wheel, the trim that houses the

seat memory switch. Not the seat memory switch itself, but the plastic piece that

holds all the switches

3. Pull trim piece straight out that is around the key. Not the black rubber piece around

the ignition switch that says PUSH

4. Tilt steering wheel all the way down.

5. Remove black bezel around cluster, start from the bottom and pull out.

6. Remove 3 screws holding cluster in. They are on the side of the cluster. Don't forget

the top screw

7. Pull cluster out enough to get your hand behind and unplug the 3 connectors.

8. Remove cluster from car, you will kinda have to move it around a little bit to get it out,

be careful not to scratch the lens.

9. Lay cluster face down on a soft towel.

10. You will see a white plastic cover on the back, remove the 8 gold colored screws

holding this cover on.

11. Pull cover off, turn the cluster over and look where the gear selector letters are, on the

oppisite side you will see 3 black and 2 green little cap looking things. These are the

bulbs. Simply unscrew to remove. you may swap the park light bulb for the drive bulb.

Or you can order one in advance.

12. Put all together in reverse order.

The cable for the hood release on my 1999 RX300 has become very loose. I have to reach behind the pull lever and further pull the actual cable to get the hood to release. I'm afraid it will slip/stretch more and I won't be able to open it at all. How do you adjust this cable?

I have taken the latch apart and I do not see how to adjust the cable. Any ideas?

That would happen on any car with the windows up. That air being forced in will have to go somewhere. You only have two options here that I see:

1. roll down a window or two

2. install a deflector

P.S. That drag can't be helping your gas mileage any either.

Has anyone ever used this method? I have read of folks talking about it but I have never read of anyone actually using this method.

I've seen it mentioned on the Auto-RX website. I am not commenting on their product at all but I do point out the technique they mention.

http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/auto-trans.htm

For Do-It-Yourself Mechanics Only (technical expertise required)

If you are willing to do it yourself here's our recommendation. Install 6 oz's of Auto-RX and run 1000-1500 miles to clean the transmission.

THEN drop pan, change filter, reinstall. Measuring the old fluid in pan into a milk bottle type container, install that amount of new ATF back into transmission. Disconnect BOTH ATF cooler lines at radiator and place a container or pan under each line end (helps to have an assistant). Start engine, shut down after 1 or 2 quarts have come out one of the lines. Refill exact amount of fresh fluid in transmission (this keeps air out of the system).

Start engine again and repeat until clean fluid is coming out of cooler line. This is messy and time consuming but will purge all old ATF from transmission and torque converter. Reinstall cooler lines and start car, cycle through gears, place in park and check level per owners manual. Check for leaks. Top up as necessary after driving and heated up. Don't overfill.

You just safely flushed the whole system, no T-TEC $ cost and Auto-RX has removed the dirt and  contamination from your transmission.

He thought the drain and fill was rediculous since more than half the fluid gets trapped in the torque converter and connot be drained.

But doesn't it get recirculated and you would drain that out the next time? Nobody is saying that a drain and fill gets it all at once. Usually I've seen people advocating a series of 3 drain & fills.

I'm not sure about this and I started another topic about this very subject.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=35506

I've seen lots of different advice regarding transmission mx to forestall what some think is inevitable transmission failure on the earlier models. My question regards the difference between draining the fluid versus a complete flush. Some have advocated a series of drain and fills that would eventually replace most of the old fluid. Others have said that drain and fills are useless and a flush is the only way to go.

I would like to think that a series of drain and fills would suffice as it would be easier and cheaper. The logic of it makes me think it would work. Does anybody have any objective evidence that complete flushes are the only procedures that do any good?

The problem occurs if you happen to wish to quickly accelerate just immediately after the full lift-throttle event.

Not sure I understand what a "lift-throttle event" is. Is there anything I can do in the way I drive to help prevent this problem?

Here's a semi related question about auto-rx. I currently have it in my RX300 as that has always been run on dino oil. But, I have an Toyota Avalon with the same engine that has about 50K running with dino oil and another 25K using synthetic oil. I'd like to use the Auto-RX in the Avalon but I'm a little reluctant to go back to dino oil during the treatment. I've seen lots of warnings that once you start running synthetic oil it is unwise to ever go back to dino oil. But, that is what is necessary for the Auto-rx treatments.

Do the benefits of the Auto-rx outweigh the drawbacks of running dino oil after the engine is used to synthetic?

Change the fluid every 15k miles or you will discover the failure soon.

Does that advice apply to the 2wd models as well?

I'm no expert as I purchased mine fairly recently. But, there are 2 trouble areas to watch out for:

1. If it is an AWD model then the transmissions are problematic. Search this forums. From what I've seen, there is no such problem with the 2wd models.

2. There is an oil sludge problem with the engines. Some have the problem, others don't. If you decide to move forward with the purchase, I'd advise paying a mechanic to pull a valve cover to see if there is any sludge. If not, then you should have no trouble if you change the oil regularly. I'd change every 3K with regular oil or 5K with synthetic. Personally, I prefer to use synthetic.

Brakes are not a problem but I'm surprised to see they needed service after only 40K.

Is this a continous system between the transmission and the differentials? Are they both filled by pouring through the transmission dipstick?

I just had one made through Streetkeys.com. I was pleased. They ship you the key and arrange to have it cut and programmed at a local shop. Pretty cheap compared to a dealer. I paid $79 for a non-remote chipped key including the cutting and programming.

Reason for replacement - I damaged the sensor while trying to clean the two sensing wires.

Can I ask how you damaged it? I recently read the instructions on cleaning this and I plan to try it soon. I'm not much of a mechanic and if there are some pitfalls to look out for then I'd appreciate knowing about them in advance. Did you spray with alcohol and dab with a q-tip?