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Thanks for the reply Landar. Regarding the hydrolock,I put those blue paper towels in all the intake openings to keep out junk and also in the rear radiator bypass and I think the water wicked up and slowly wicked over to the paper towel in the rear manifold opening next to it. I'll take a look at the injector connectors but I put a dab of silicone on all of the edge of the connectors to hold it in place as all the tabs broke off when removing them. Again thanks for the reply and thanks to all for your valuable posts on troubleshooting.

Howzit everyone, I changed out my starter on a 1991 ls and ended up with hydrolock due to water leaking into right rear cylinder from rear water bypass. After removing spark plugs and clearing it out and putting it back together it turns over and tries to start but won't. During the replacement of starter some of the connectors broke (cracked) when removing them and the hoses were extremely brittle also. I put connectors back together as good as I could. I first verified fuel by removing fuel line on drivers side by dipsticks and when I crank engine fuel shoots out of fuel line so i believe it's getting fuel to the fuel rails.If I spray starter fluid engine will run. Anyone with any ideas on where to start in terms of sensors that connectors were pulled off of or hoses that need to be looked at real good. Haven't run codes yet as I had to go to work. Thanks for all your help.

Yes I do have fuel pressure. I did not tighten the bolt at end of fuel rail that goes aroung to the right side fuel rail and when I tried starting the car fuel was coming out pretty fast by the bolt. I can't believe how brittle the connectors are, several tabs have broken on a few of them. I'm getting a code reader and will go from there. Thanks for your reply royt.

Howzit to all, I've had a 1991 ls for about 7 years now and have really enjoyed it and with all of your help and posts have been able to take care of the car on my own. I recently got a 1995 ls with 98K miles on it for free but with a bad transmission and it won't startup after sitting since Aug. 09. I'm trying to get it started first before I dive into the tranny problem. I've sprayed starter fluid and it tries to turnover so I believe there's spark but It's only me so I spray then go and turnover the motor, I'm not spraying and having someone start the car for me to see if it stays running. I drained old fuel and replaced fuel filter and verified fuel at the fuel rail after the four injectors on drivers side but when I popped fuel rail off intake manifold I do not see any moisture(fuel) around the opening where injector sits on manifold when I turn over motor. I'm not sure if injectors are being fired or if it's clogged so question is what's the simplest way to check that. Thanks in advance for all your past help and future help. The car is in real nice shape exterior and interior wise other than clearcoat peeling on roof and hood and tears on driver side seat. Saw the car sitting for a while and finally appoached the owner and he said tow it out of here and it's yours! I am trying to find a mechanic who does housecalls so sorry in advance for possibly prematurely asking for help without doing any proper diagnostics but the owner said it used to startup fine so I'm hoping one of you experts can maybe get it started based on what i've said. Thanks, Dale

Thanks for the reply SK. When you say to soak it in pb are you talking about the whole dryer/valve or just soak the exhaust valve area (2 holes on left bottom) or soak the solenoid. Thanks again.

Forgot to ask if anyone out there has a dryer/exhaust valve for sale(maybe from a wreck). Thanks again.

Just wanted to report my trouble shooting on my recent suspension problems. First off this report assumes you have good shocks. I removed the right fender well cover( many screws but easy) to gain access to the front height control valve, compressor and dryer exhaust valve. Removed height control valve (2 screws and removal of air lines) to verify it wasn't clogged and also verified that valve solenoids worked by hooking up solenoid wires to battery( you should here a clicking sound from solenoid when voltage is applied). Checked compressor operation by removing hose from the compressor and starting up car(checked out ok), then hooked up hose and checked for air output from it to verify hose wasn't clogged(checked out ok). Hooked up hose to dryer/exhaust valve and did not get any air out of it and heard air leaking from exhaust valve area. I verified exhaust valve solenoid was good (same procedure as height control valve solenoids) and determined that the exhaust valve itself was sticking. Unfortunately the dryer/exhaust valve is a sealed plastic container which does not look like it can be worked on. I went down to lexus Maui to try and get a replacement and was quoted $1200.00. I decided to wait and order the dryer/exhaust valve thru a mechanic friend in L.A. who's on vacation right now. Went home and banged the dryer/exhaust valve on the ground a few times and hooked it up and it started working. Unfortunately it was out of its bracket and i had to disassemble it and put it back in the bracket and when I started car up again the exhuast valve was sticking again. I tapped it with a hammer, it started working again and the suspension is back up. I turned off the suspension(switch in trunk), put back fender well cover and have been using car since. Will replace dryer/exhaust valve shortly. One thing in retrospect, if you unhook solenoid wires an error code is given and you'll need to reset it by unhooking negative cable from battery otherwise the compressor won't operate when you start up vehicle. Hope this helps someone out there and again thanks to all for your help previously.

Anyone out there ever work on their exhaust valve/height control valve components? I'm having intermittent problems with my air suspension and have narrowed it down to the compressor/exhaust valve/height valve components. I don't believe any of the sensors are bad and the shocks are good. Just looking for some advice on how to get to those components (thru fender well or from engine bay?) and cleaning those sticky valves. I've looked at all the posts over the last few days and have not found any that deal with working on those components. Thanks to all for any help!!

Thanks for the reply SK, any advice on how to clean the valves. Do I need to remove the assembly or can I clean it installed.

Having air suspension problems on my 91ls. The left front shock drops about a 1/2 inch to an inch everytime I start the car, and the air compressor runs constantly until it stops, I assume because it overheats. If I start the car and lift the right front by hand to the right height it will stay there at that height just about indefinitely if i turn off the switch in the trunk (Car has not dropped since I had it switched off, so it's being used with it off). I believe the shocks are still good because of this. Need to mention that I redid all shocks with Arnott replacements about 2 years ago. I'll be troubleshooting this long weekend to try and figure what's wrong. Anyone have problems with ride height control valve, height control relay, height control sensor or even the dryer and exhaust valve by the compressor. I'm thinking I'll start looking at the #1 height control valve and right front height control sensor first. Another thing is that I never hear the exhaust valve work, even when I lift the car. You guys think maybe the height control sensor for the right front is bad and never sends a signal to shut off compressor and exhaust valve or maybe exhaust valve is stuck open when system is on as it (exhaust valve) must be shut when system is turned off as shock does not drop when it is off. Any help is appreciated, wish me luck!! Thanks to all for past advice on previous problems on my car, still in love with it after 225,00 miles. Dale

Anyone know the specs on the nut for the stabilizer bar links (front end) as one of mine came loose and fell off. I know its a 17 mm nut but Lexus Maui and Napa and checkers say they need more info than just a 17 mm nut. I'm thinking its a 13 mm (ID) with a 1.50 coarse thread count as I got a 12 mm 1.50 Tc and it did not fit. Thanks in advance for your help. :)