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ssdoeg2

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Everything posted by ssdoeg2

  1. More than likely your door actuators are gone, having the same problem with my driver door. There is a tutorial on replacing the motors in the actuator if you don't want to change the whole actuator which runs a pretty penny. The motors can be bought on ebay. It is a pretty lengthy process to pull the actuators out but doable. Check out the tutorial to see if you're up to it and also it's a little different if you have the auto-close door setup.
  2. Forgot to mention that car is nice and quiet now, Will wait on other side to replace bearing as it seems to be ok. Many thanks to all for your support and thanks again 1990ls and Dashan on this issue.
  3. Never mind gents, It's good to go. Guess that's normal what I was seeing.
  4. Good day all, Finally got the bushing and the bearing replaced and reinstalled the axle carrier. When I put the car in gear while up on jacks the reinstalled axle carrier does not spin properly or at all while the other side is ok. I have tightened the axle nut further with no change thinking I did not have the carrier in far enough but I would think the drive shaft should have spun properly anyway. Any thoughts appreciated guys, will try to figure it out and check back online for any tips in a few.
  5. Just googled adus 505, did not realize that it was a part number dahsan. Thanks
  6. Thanks for the replies gents, sorry for the late response but extremely busy. The bushing on the axle carrier side is a part of the axle carrier itself so buying a strut rod woulld not solve the issue. Will go to the stealership I guess to order one, again thanks for your reponses, much appreciated.
  7. Good day all, I'm in the process of replacing the left rear hub bearing and during the removal of the axle carrier I destroyed the bushing for the strut rod ( axle carrier side not frame side). I'm unable to find a part number for it in the shop manual. Vehicle is a 1995 ls400. Any help is appreciated, Many thanks in advance for all your help over the years and letting me have a champagne taste on a beer budget. Recently picked up an ls430 so I'm fixing the 95 to sell.
  8. Again, many many many thanks Curious B for your guidance and help!!
  9. Thanks for the info Curious B!! I dropped the pan this morning and pulled off all 4 solenoids. All of the solenoids were in spec for the resistance readings and solenoids 1,2 and 4 checked out ok for the mechanical test (valve movement) but solenoid #3's valve would engage when voltage was put on it but not disengage completely when voltage was removed. I removed the hex bolt at the end of the solenoid, took out the spring and sprayed contact cleaner on it twice, cleaned it and verified there was free movement of valve before putting spring and bolt back on. I reinstalled the solenoids, closed it up, put oil back in, took it for a spin and she runs great!! There was probably some gunk and rubbish on valve causing it to stick and not function properly but when you turned the car off the valve slowly disengeged back and the tranny would seem to work again at startup until it(solenoid)engaged again and stick again. Stoked that tranny seems to be OK after a 10 mile run with no problems noted. I'll see in the next few days of driving if I'm out of the woods but it seems like I got the problem solved. Thanks Curious B and to all for all your help!!!!!!
  10. Thanks, I'll check out all the solenoids tomorrow and see what comes up. Like I said above, my 1991 manual lists the solenoids as 1, 2, 3 and 4 instead of A thru E so if anyone out there has a 1995 manual would you mind posting the correlation of solenoids if possible (EX.- is solenoid #1 the A solenoid?). If it helps any my 1991 manual shows solenoid #1 as the solenoid on rear of valve body near the pan drain bolt location (looking up from underneath)with #2 next to it. Then it shows #4 solenoid and then the #3 solenoid closest to the front of the car on the valve body. So it's listed as 1,2, 4 and 3 from back to front of car. Thanks for all replies.
  11. Thanks for the reply Curious B. Kicking myself for not doing the resistance checks yesterday. Took car for a spin this morning for a little more troubleshooting and here’s what I’ve got. After a few minutes of driving tranny will slip and at a standstill on an incline (my driveway entrance) car will slip in 2nd, 3rd or Drive and not move unless I give it some gas (> 1000 rpm) but in low gear car will move as soon as I give it any gas at all. If I turn off engine and restart it tranny will not slip initially but will start slipping after a few minutes of driving. This led me to believe that there may still be blockage in the valve body so that’s why I dropped pan again yesterday and cleaned the solenoids, filter screen and oil strainer but no change . If symptoms above clearly point to a bad solenoid someone give me a holler. Cleared code, took vehicle for a spin and was able to get code p0753 to repeat. The manual I’ve got is for a 1991 and diagrams are a little different on the 1995 from what I can see visually (fuse box in engine bay is different) so I guess I’m dropping the pan again to check the solenoid resistances. If the solenoid reads bad I’ll change it out and go from there. Got to go to work shortly but will dive into it in the morning. Going thru some type 4 fluid (6.95/qt on Maui-price to live in paradise!!) but still hoping I don’t need a new tranny yet. Thanks again for all replies.
  12. Howzit going guys, Hope you guys can help me as I've spent the last 5 hours doing searches on here and club lexus regarding the p0753 error code and I haven't found an answer. I've been working on a 1995 LS that had a tranny issue. The tranny would not work at all when I first started on it so I did a complete tranny flush and it started running but with a pause and a harsh engagement whenever I went into drive from park or neutral (going into reverse is OK). I took it for a spin the other day and noticed that it now also seem to be slipping in drive. I drained pan (oil looked a little dirty again), cleaned the solenoids and it doesn't slip now but still has harsh engagement. Put a scanner on and got a code p0753. Sorry for the long story but what I need to know is what solenoid is the shift solenoid A that the error code states? I have a 1991 shop manual(appears to be same tranny in the 1995 except for shifter)and it lists the solenoids as 1,2,3 and 4. The troubleshooting matrix (page AT-156) also lists solenoid #4 as a possible problem for harsh engagement. Is solenoid #4 shift solenoid A? Any advice appreciated.
  13. I did the tranny filter/fluid change this morning and the car runs. The tranny filter was really clogged/dirty and was probably not allowing any fluid thru it. During the flush the fluid also started looking purple for some reason after a few quarts. I can't believe I got lucky and now I'm a firm believer in the "only use type IV" fluid. Thanks to all for your help, now project #3 painting the car. Really learned a lot doing the TB/WP replacement(project #1) and now the tranny fix(project #2) and also the starter replacement on my 1991 ls but I think the paint job is beyond my skills unless you lexus gods/gurus can walk me thru that too(LOL). Thanks again guys.
  14. Thanks for the reply guys. I took a chance on the car thinking the same thing that with only 96,00 miles on the car it might not be that drastic a problem. Haven't had a chance yet to look at the valve body yet but I will clean it and do the trans oil complete change this weekend to see what happens and then take it to a tranny shop if it's still bad. The oil did smell burnt when I drained the pan. Again thanks for your help, will post with results of weekend troubleshooting.
  15. Howzit Everyone, I'm still working on my 1995 ls project. The vehicle is now running after putting in a reman. ECU after a complete timing belt/waterpump change. I bought the vehicle knowing there was a possible trans problem and now that vehicle runs the tranny is not working. It does not move in any gear other than at times while siiting there in reverse gear the car will move a little but stop when I give it some gas. Just want some ideas on going forward with troubleshooting. I have just drained the pan and am going to pull it off to look at the valve body and solenoids to see if anything is abnormal. After that I'll put in the proper fluid and filter and see what happens before taking it to a tranny shop. Just hoping I may get lucky and fix it myself. I don't have any history on the car other than that it was owned by a vietnamese jeweler on Oahu. The car is a 1995 with 96,00 miles. Thanks in advance for all your help and many thanks to previous posters who helped me get my 1991 back on the road (starter change).
  16. Thanks for the replies. I've got most everything put back on except for the radiator, shroud and fan. I'm unable to torque the crank bolt to specs, all I've got is a 19.2volt craftsman impact wrench and it only torques to 75 ft-lb. So I'm holding off on installing those parts till I figure out a way to torque it down. Anyone with any tips on doing this. Been trying to figure out a way to hook up my puller with a pipe thru it to possibly keep crank from turning and then torqueing bolt with my torque wrench but I'm thinking I'll bend the bolts going into pulley. Any tips besides forking out the bucks and buying an electric impact wrench?
  17. Howzit everyone, Timing belt install moving along, water pump and inlet on, idler 1 and 2 on and TB tensioner on. Quick question, I got my parts from a friend in LA (Aloha auto Center in Rosemead) and he sent some oil seals with it. It looks like it goes behind the crank pulley and both cam pulleys. The ones on the car show no signs of leakage so I'm wondering if I can forego installing the new ones. All of the TB install forums do not mention changing the oil seals but my friend said since I'm there I should change them. Hope someone can post a reply fairly quickly so I can decide. Thanks guys.
  18. Just jumped on the computer now, been out getting everything out of the way so I can remove the pulley and the cover behind it. I got lucky and loosened the crankshaft bolt on first crank, but I used a torque wrench and had the handle on the ground, not what you guys recommended, but it worked and nothing damaging happened. Stupid of me not to check my post for replies this morning before heading out or I would have known about your suggestions. Heading to napa to buy a puller unless you guys have a mcgyver method I can use. Thanks as always for your help!!
  19. Howzit everybody, Started doing TB/WP replacement today on a 1995 LS. I can't get the bolt off the left ign. coil (bolt facing wheel well), I've tried from the side and from the front above the ac compressor and am unable to get it off. Is it a 14mm or a 13mm and which way did you get a socket or wratchet wrench on it. Sorry for such a simple question but I'm flustered. Wondering if I should drop the compressor first. Also gonna attempt the crank pulley removal and wanted to ask which way you placed the torque wrench on the floor(I believe towards the left wheel)when you do the engine start method. Thanks for all your help.
  20. Just did my starter and upper control arms on my 91 LS and hope to get a couple more years on it. It's at 275K now.
  21. Howzit everybody, Got everything back together and the car started right up. Unsure what fixed the problem but I did redo some wiring to some of the broken connectors and resiliconed the gaskets. Also put on some Arnott upper control arms and the car runs and feels great. Just wanted to thank you all for your replies and troubleshooting tips. I don't consider myself a mechanic in any way but I will do my part and try to help others with problems that I may have come across because of the help you guys gave me. To all of us weekend warriors new to this forum and the LS itself take the time to go thru the thousands of previous posts to find problems and symptoms similar to what you're getting and you'll probably get your answers to your problems. It's unfair to all these great guys on here to keep asking question after question every step of the way in your troubleshooting process. I had a T-bird supercoupe a few years back and the supercoupe forum was also great but a lot of the good guys slowly pulled out of the club due to people asking question after question and not taking the time to view previous posts. Would really hate for that happen to this club. Anyways thanks again guys for all your help. I'm going to attempt the t-belt water pump replacement on the 1995 LS I recently picked up at a great price in a few days. Landar and CuriousB, you guys ever make it to Maui the beers and PuPus(Hawaiian for appetizers)are on me.
  22. Thanks for the reply! I think I'll do that before I start tearing up the connectors to verify they're still good. The car ran fine other than the intemittent starter problem before I attempted the replacement. I'm a little frustrated but I'm not giving up yet. Just an update on my problem and a question. Took engine apart back down to intake manifold being off. Yesterday when I was spraying starter fluid and engine ran (sputtered but ran) some white smoke came out by rear left side of engine. I assumed I did not seal it up good so thats why I tore it back down to clean the gaskets and put a better seal on it. While I had the intake off I put voltage on all injectors and heard them all click and when I turned the intake over to look at injectors I noticed that they were wet from the residual fuel left in the fuel rail. So I believe the injectors are OK. The lower intake chamber is now back on with the injector connectors on and on saturday I'll repair the other broken connectors (Distibutor connector, coolant temperature sensor, bsvs and another connector on front water bypass pipe) with spade terminals and then reinstall the rest of the parts. I believe the engine runs off the cold start injector but then has no fuel from the primaries to keep it running so If after I reinstall everything and I end up having this same problem any tips guys on where to go from there. I'll probably get a mobile mechanic to look at it next week if I'm unable to resolve this. Thanks to all for your help.
  23. Thanks for the reply! I think I'll do that before I start tearing up the connectors to verify they're still good. The car ran fine other than the intemittent starter problem before I attempted the replacement. I'm a little frustrated but I'm not giving up yet.
  24. Thanks for the reply Landar. Regarding the hydrolock,I put those blue paper towels in all the intake openings to keep out junk and also in the rear radiator bypass and I think the water wicked up and slowly wicked over to the paper towel in the rear manifold opening next to it. I'll take a look at the injector connectors but I put a dab of silicone on all of the edge of the connectors to hold it in place as all the tabs broke off when removing them. Again thanks for the reply and thanks to all for your valuable posts on troubleshooting. Ran codes but none came up other than continuous flashing o/d light. Also answering the question of draining coolant from block before doing this job is a good idea. Now that I look back I remember some water pouring out of rear water bypass bridge when I finally popped bridge off under the wire harness and thats when it probably filled rear cylinder. Just wondering if I can pop off fuel rail with injectors on to see if injectors are spraying fuel properly.
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