boblexus430

Looks good, Nice work from Boblexus430

This is BOBLEXUSLS430 with an update to my new Y-pipe installation fix. Working Great!!!!!!!!!!! Still no error codes (P0420 or P0430) bank one and back two after installing ebay exhaust y-pipe 2 months back. Save yourself a lot of time and money by ordering this ebay Y-pipe and take it to your local exhaust shop to have it installed or give it a try yourself. Make sure you check for leaks on the three connections after installing new Y pipe. If still leaks, try my jack method on the front two connections and user exhaust sealer on the rear connection. Don't stop until all the leaks are fixed. don't bother reinstalling the heat shields. You should be good for another 100,000 miles. CuriousB's photos look identical to the crack I found on the driver's side under the heat shields.

Recommendation to prevent from happening again. I did buy a can of exhaust manifold paint and painted the flanges and new Y pipes. From what I could tell after removing the heat shields, the clamps heat shields and insulation caused the pipe to fail. If you could take the shields off and paint the Y pipe with exhaust manifold paint I think this would prevent this problem from happening. Also recommend replacing 4 bolts and gaskets after cleaning up the flanges. 1) the clamps rusted 2) the heat shields started to rust 3) the insulation trapped water and caused the Y pipe and everything else to rust.

This is my update after installing new Y exhaust pipe for 2001 lexus ls430 at a price $304 (Bought from ebay) verses 1200+ from dealer to avoid computer fault codes P0430 and p0420. New Y pipe came with bolts and gaskets 1) put car on jack stands 2a) Used o/2 sensor removal socket and easly removed both O2 sensors without going into car 2b) use propane touch and 2 pairs of visegrips to remove 4 bolts (2 on each side attached to forward cats) - heat nuts until glowing orange and remove with visegrips 3) removed rear clamp on Y pipe exhaust pipe. (take extra care to save rear clamp because new Y pipe does not come with this clamp.) heat with torch put be careful not to destroy clamp 4) wiggled old Y pipe out. 5) cleaned up flanges on ends of two forward cats with wire brushes, cold chisel and hammer 6) bought exhaust pipe seal from pepboys 7) put exhaust seal on cat flanges and around rear of new Y pipe ( you will notice old sealer inside of pipe you are inserting new Y pipe into) (do not remove old sealer just add new sealer) 8) pushed new Y pipe into rear pipe first 9) install new gaskets and bolts that came with new Y pipe from ebay 10) tightend bolts in front and clamp in back 11) Tested for air leaks by starting car and feeling around joints between cat and new Y pipe - results: driver side had air leak where new Y pipe mets cat at bottom of flange. 12a) Loosen bolts on both sides and clamp in back. 12b) Installed small jack under car on drivers side under Y pipe. Pumped up jack to force new Y pipe flange and cat flange to meet better with gasket in between, tightened all four bolts and rear clamp 13) retested and no air leaks 14) erased codes from computer using cheap code reader tool 15) After two weeks of driving no error codes / Fault codes 16) I now HAVE A NEW Y PIPE INSTALLED WITH NO ERROR CODES FOR JUST UNDER $304 DOLLARS PS: The new Y pipe did not come with heat shields that where on old Y pipe. I did take the time to remove old heat shields which are in bad shape. the insulation was imbedded in the rust from the old Y pipe and could not be saved. The heat shields themselfs are not an item you can buy from lexus and after consulting with several exhaust shops and one automotive teacher the shields are strickly to prevent leafs or debre from catching fire under car. This being the case I saved the old shields but will not put back on. During removal of the old Y pipe and heat shields I noticed that old gaskets where shot. Under the forward heat shield clamp was a 2 1/2 inch rusted thru HOLE IN the Y pipe (up and down), One could not tell by either hearing or seeing that there was a hole in the y pipe until the heat shield clamp was removed at which point I could hear the leak in the exhaust!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Lets just agree to disagree on this one. I am 99.999% certain the shield (and the mineral wool insulation under it) is there to stop the exhaust from cooling so the secondary Catalytic Converter can reach "light off" temperature. Bare uninsulated pipe will cause cooling and delay the secondary converter from kicking in. I agree there is no pressure sensor but O2 sensors aren't temperature sensors either. They measure the amount of O2 in the exhaust stream. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor It could be the leak stops the sensor from getting to 600° F it needs to function (that's why the sensor has a heater to speed up getting to temp so the engine can jump over to closed loop EFI) but I think it is more likely due to concentration of O2 in the gas after an exhaust pulse pushes through. For a moment it creates a short backdraft (vacuum in the pipe) and O2 is pulled into the pipe and potentially fools the sensor. Anyway there are plenty of posts about the need for this "plumbing" too be airtight so I think a trip to the muffler shop is in order. Thanks for the info. One thing I left out. is that codes I'm receiving (Catalyst Efficiency out of range) are for both sides of the Y pipe (P0430 and p0420 - this was stated in the manual only. After removing shield clamp on drivers side the leak sound has increased as it is now noticable when standing 10-15 feet from drivers side. Prior to that the sound was barely noticable when laying directly under the Y pipe. I've got to figure out a way to prevent shield and clamps from reacting to the new after market Y pipe to avoid this from happening again. I was thinking of drilling holds in shield to allow water do drain, buy stainless steel clamps and screws and paint any rusted areas as we all know rust makes rust.

Sorry CuriousB, Did not read your post prior to responding. Looks like you did your homework. I'll keep you posted after I get the new Cat in. I see your helpful info on gasket fitting, Perhaps I should go with factory gaskets. All for now.

The shield around the forward Y exhaust pipe is to prevent leafs or debris from catching fire. That is the only reason for it. The hole behind the second/rear o/s sensor is causing the o/s sensor to run cooler. the computer senses the different between the bank 1 forward and rear/back o/s sensor and throws the code. There are no sensors to measure pressure only temperature difference. The computer is programmed with a range of codes for each sensor . If an o/s sensor is cooler then it should be a code is thrown indicating either the cat is clogged or a hole exist in the exhaust. You will get a diffent code if the O/s sensor is bad. Try not to read to much into the problem as you do have a leak that needs to be addressed which will cause your car to fail inspection depending on which state you live in. In your case (2004+ lexus), you will have to remove the Y pipe and have it welded unless you want to pay the price!! Don't reuse the cheap clamps and screws, which to stainless steel.

I been pondering over some recent fault codes of p0420 and p0430 codes found on my 2001 ls430. After some investigation I have a solution that can save everyone a lot of money. 1)The codes P0430 and p0420 indicate your catalytic converter efficeniency is reduced. This would lead one to believe that the catalytic converter needs to be replaced which can be a major expense since your ls430 has three catalytic converters. (two forward and one rear) . With a little investigation I found that the foward exhaust pipe/rear catalytic converter (all one unit) (part number 51868) had a very small air leak (HOLE in the pipe) hidden under the forward exhaust pipe shield/clamp. This shield is to prevent your car from catching leafs on fire if you park under a pile of leafs or brush. Well I said to myself, how did this happen. After further investigation I discovered the lexus cheaped out on the clamps that hold the leaf/heat shield to the forward exhaust pipe/cat. The clamps had rusted and become loose which caused the shield to rub a hole thru the exhaust pipe. Well this was interesting. After some research I found out the forward exhaust pipe cost $1000+ (part alone) from the dealer. Many people in the internet who had the same problem had their shop weld the pipe for $200+. which is an exceptable repair. I discovered on ebay that a replacement part does exist for just over $300 with shipping. The part also includes the four forward bolts plus the two gaskets. So save yourself a lot of money and order the aftermarket part and rest in peace knowing that you did not get riped off by your dealer. PS - you can find the part by typing in the ebay search ls430 51868 This part is good for 2001 thru 2003 ls430's Details: I could hear the exhaust leak by putting my car on a ramp. Starting the car while under it at which point I could hear a leak on the driver side just about 6 inches behind the bank 1 number 2 O/2 sensor.

This is for all of those people seaching for a replacement subwoofer that was damaged because either you or one of the kids turned the bass up to loud or played some of that more modern music on your Mark levinson Stereo system and the subwoofer speaker now makes a rattling noise in the back . This will work for any make or model subwoofer lexus offers. Go find/borrow/buy an electric glue gun or heavy duty bathroom tub/tile 100% silcone clear caulk (home depot or lowes). I prefer the glue gun. Pull off or pry with screw driver or puddy knife the subwoofer top grill where you suspect the noice is coming from. Inspect the cone around the speaker. lightly push down on the speaker's outside cone edge. you will find using a flash light and a good pair of reading glasses will help. Observer that in almost all cases the speaker will be torn around the outside edge. This is the weakest part of the factory subwoofer. Mine was torn for about 2 inches along the edge and was very hard to see tear. Take your glue gun, insert glue stick and let it warm up. Now go all the way around the entire outside edge of the speaker cone with glue meeting outside edge with the foam part of the speaker, cover the paper part of the speaker from the form part of the cone to the outside wall of the speaker. Fix any other tears with the glue gun. Push the speaker cover back on and it will be as good if not better then new. This is a simple repair for an expensive speaker that will last for a long time. No other replacement speaker will sound as good as the factory speaker without potentially damaging your Mark levinson amplifier. Believe me I know because I have tried others. schuppin@worldnet.att.net let me know how it went!!!!!!!!!! Tools : Screw driver Sears electric glue gun and glue. cost: Nothing but 10 minutes of your time. $5.00 bath room caulk but go the glue gun route instead

Can anyone tell me what a good replacement subwoofer for my 2001 ls430 with a Mark Levison Stereo and where to buy? Mine is shot and from what I have searched on this forum it's not clear. I need website and price and olms?

Does anyone know an aftermarket manufacturer of trunk lift supports for the LS430 model. What is the part number?

Does anyone know were I can get a list of the lexus service op codes with Descriptions of what each code means. I Would like to know the complete detailed service history of my car so I know how to plan for the future service of the car. Recently I bought a used 2001 ls430. I had the dealer print off the service history that included the op code and description. My problem was is on many of the r/o numbers the report contained an op code but with an unknown description for the op code. Does anyone know what the Cond. and type mean on the service history report? The report contained the following column report headings Vin: Year Model, Color, DOFU R/O No., Date, Service Adv., Cond , Type, Mileage ,Op Code ,C, Description