Jump to content

99lsguy

Regular Member
  • Posts

    1,483
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by 99lsguy

  1. it was raining really hard the other day, and i couldn't see  :unsure:  i stopped in to the local Pepboys, bought myself some bosch blades, pulled next door to the gas station and put them on in 10 mins...........

    like everyone else said, just push the tab down and they come off....on mine you have to pop the hood to get to one of em. but thats a great idea to turn the wipers on, then turn the car off so they are stuck on the middle of the windshield, i'm gonna do that next time.  :D

    i tell ya u just don't realize how sweet new wiper blades are, when you have crappy ones, its just one of those things one can really overlook sometimes.

    Bosch is the Brand I put on too Silver..... :D

  2. You don't have to remove it from the vehicle. Just hook up the pressure and return lines of the MotorVac and it cleans the engine using detergents/fuel. Cleans O2S, spark plugs, ports, valves, injector housings, cats & EGR. It's like $100 at most shops around here...well worth the money though.

    wow, it cleans all of that for 100 bucks? man i'm gonna do that, that sounds like a maintence must......do you know of a general auto chain that does that procedure

    Man,

    I'm with you Silvermate!!! :cheers: $100 and it does all that.............crazy good! I mean, you don't have to take anything apart :lol: ---it's a dream come true :lol::lol:

  3. Yes, they will go bad. It would be wise to replace the waterpump when you replace the belt...it's just so much easier this way. It would be a lot more trouble if you were to replace just the belt for now and have to go back and tear everything apart again just to replace a failed waterpump...these 2 things should be done together. When I replaced my timing belt I also replaced the tensioner, waterpump, no.1 idler bearing and no.2 idler bearing.

    That's the way to do it!!! :cheers:

  4. Mine most definantly runs! I did a 0-60 test a few weeks ago, and I got a 7.8 figure, and she reached 95mph in 14.9. I think that is damn good for a '95 LS with 242,1xx miles on the odo. I think that if I would take all of the crap out of my car, I could knock a few tenths off of that 7.8. I can email you the mpeg if you like-it's very cool with the tires sqealing and the V8 screaming all the way up to 6100rpms! B)

    :cheers:

    Blake,

    Email me that mpeg!!! :lol:

    :cheers:

  5. LF- I make a comission on every car a dealership I contract with sells and I make WAY less money in January than I do other times of the year. January is really slow...

    bart- No reason to avoid an auction, thats how the dealerships get most of their cars in the first place. You're thinking of seizure auctions or something like that, dealer auctions are nothing like that. Say you trade a Mercedes into the Lexus dealer, it goes to auction because they don't want to sell it on their lot. Nothing wrong with the Mercedes, the dealership just isn't interested in it.

    Bart,

    this is how I bought my LS....they had about 8 LS400's lined up back to back --- a strictly "lexus" auction line with other lexus dealers bidding too..... Mine checked out great ....as is today :D

  6. Here's a diag from my manual.......

    Sounds like some sort of "limit switch" could be faulty....like it thinks the window is shut when actually 2" short...

    Have you tried sticking a 2x4 in there and see if it retracts properly (child safety?)...

    But yeah ...12 year old....motor could be a little weary.... :D

    trou.pdf

  7. ecu,

    to get an 02 for less than $35k is really pushing it....very doubful @ dealer, but they should get to the $37-8K range via negoiation....

    I agree with SW than Jan/Feb are good times to get best deals....Christmas bills on Credit is due, taxes have been paid by 12/31, etc...and people are out of available cash to get a vehicle.

    Personal property wise, it's also better to wait until after Jan 1 to get a car.....unless the dealer will write it up like that and give you an offer you can't refuse... :cheers:

  8. The solenoid itself unscrews just like an oil filter.

    So then why isn't anyone using the appropriate size open end wrench to unscrew the solenoid (instead of beating on it with a chisel)? And when reinstalling, why is everyone pounding the solenoid back on (instead of !Removed! it back on)? What is really securing the solenoid anyway? Threads? The "O"-Ring seals? Or is it a press fit?

    Like lexus400 says.....its just threaded on...

    If you have a very "thin" channel lock pliers or similar, you could probably get around the nut. Its just in a tight place and a "tap" with the chisel is easiest....

  9. I installed the Daizen bushings on my 91LS when I replaced all of the rest of the components on my front end and wasn't pleased, FWIW.  Although the lower bushings worked fine, I noted that the upper bushings failed to take into consideration the interesting fact that new OEM control arms (which I installed since my upper ball joints were worn) had a substantially thinner cross section than the original OEM control arms.  As a result, although everything looked good, you could move the control arm front to back pretty easily (royally !Removed! up your caster settings and wreaking havoc on tire wear) with these bushings installed.  I migrated back to the original OEM upper control arm bushings (so glad I bought that press...) and the problem is gone.

    I have yet to contact TM Engineering (the bushing manufacturer) on this issue, but have plans to.

    Also, FWIW, I learned an interesting trick from a mechanic friend of mine.  I was very, very concerned about damaging the upper ball joint boot on my brand new upper control arms when I went to put the OEM bushings back in as a result of using a conventional puller to remove the upper ball joint from the knuckle.  He said that his shop never uses a puller to remove upper ball joints, but rather takes a small sledge hammer and hits the knuckle at the point where the upper ball joint goes through.  This, he says, sets up a vibration in the metal that pops it loose.  It didn't work the first time I hit it, but I gave it a slightly bigger hit and out it came.  Life is good.  :D

    Thanks for this info Lex.......... :cheers:

  10. That's why I use amsoil products... but I've still got 6 quarts of T-IV fluid to use. I"ll probably always use T-IV in the tranny......

    But the diffy gets Amsoil and I'll go back and forth between Amsoil Syn Oil and Mobil One........ :D

  11. Toyota Type T-IV can't be a synthetic ATF because it sells for only 50 cents more per quart here in the USA than Toyota's Dexron III fluid.  Type T-IV may have a bit of synthetic additive, however.

    It does have synthetic additives, but is not a totally syn. product.

  12. Craig,

    I've watched it........very nice engine sound :cheers:

    I have no idea why it takes so long.... :blink:

    You have a new air filter, clean thottle body, plugs, wires, etc....

    maybe the MAF sensor is faulty........something is restricting the 1uzfe engine from unleashing a little more of its punch!!

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership