option00002

It was mentioned above, but anyone suffering from a lack of heat make certain your coolant is topped off. When my level dips by even an inch heat is virtually unavailable.

Have you tried simply putting the alarm in valet mode and forgetting about it? Down in the drivers footwell (somewhere) there is likely either a toggle switch or black button. With the key in the ignition and turned to the accessory position(dash lights on/not running) flip the switch. It typically is on the left hand side though I may be dating myself. Hth.

Apologies.

I thought it was a 1997 even though you clearly indicated otherwise. I agree with the other posters as it appears to be a fair number. While I would encourage trying to knock off a grand or so it is not outrageous by any means.

When I first read your post my gut told me $12k is market on the car. I then peeked at KBB and it suggests $12k. Further, in my area I would argue SCs do behind book. When it all comes down to it though such things are a value judgement. If the seller is the second owner with maintenance records dating back to new one might step up and pay a premium. Good luck! It sounds like a fine example and is a great year for the model.

They can be converted. First look here: ClickHere-Intellexual and save this site to your favorites.

This is an interesting CL thread which will surely help as well : ClickHere

Conrats on the new vehicle!

BTW, I found this by utilizing the 'search' function on ClubLexus. I entered 'fog lights and conversion'. The search function is your friend.

Well, it appears you have already found your answer. Regardless, I will confirm that the '99 S80 is an utter toilet. Mind you the 2.9 engine originated in 1995 and was well suited to its original application e.g. rear wheel drive sedan. That said, I owned a 1998 V90 and it was a phenominal car owed in large part to the rear wheel drive. I sold it w/ 175k on the clock and it was still running extremely strong with relatively minimal issues. The 2000 S80 2.9 is arguably much better (than the '99) and I have a number of friends who currently own/have had them and all in all could not fault them. (I would seek out a '97/'98 S/V 90 or a '00 S70 SE - these are boxy .) Otherwise, the newer the model, the better it gets. As another poster mentioned run away from the T6 version (twin turbo) as that is the biggest toilet of them all. Lastly, Volvo incorporated the 5cyl Turbo into the 2004 S80 and on. That is an excellent drivetrain and can also be found in the s60,v70,xc70 and xc90.

And no the brand is nothing like it was in the mid 80s to mid 90s.

Allow me to give you a bit of help. FYI, I have yet to fix my own...

Boardmember JEDIPETE was kind enough to offer this advice:

…my passenger seat was broke because a plastic pin had fallen out. It had to be reinsterted to the gear would catch when that motor was activated.

If your motor is not spininng at all when you try to move the seat back then the motor is bad. If it runs it probably means that pin fell out. You will have to remove the seat. 4 bolts hold it in. they are a pain in the !Removed!. You can also move your seat back manually if you put a 12mm ? socket on the horizontal screw from the front and ratchet it until it goes all the way back. My seat would twist to one side because one pin fell out. So I had to rachet it back until I had access to the fwd bolts. Take the back 2 out first then rachet yoyr seat back like I said and take out the front. Make sure you disconnect the battery before you unplug the seat. It could fry something is ya don't.

And this thread contains some info: ClickHere

This thread from LOC offers similar advice as well: ClickHere

And another LOC thread which contains a number of links to additional threads within: ClickHere

Good luck and be sure to let us know how you make out!

While I am not a huge fan of the gal the quotes cited above are utterly immaterial.

It will be interesting to see how you make out. Typically, with import vehicles (e.g. Toyota, Honda, Nissan) unless you are under mileage the lease buy-out is rather accurate or otherwise high against market value. Further, this 'value' is subject to your region. As far as the sales tax you are certainly going to be charged on the purchase (by the state not Lexus) and the prior tax was indeed a percentage of the monthly payment leading up to today. An additional important factor in regard to its resale value is that a Lexus dealer can sell the car 'certified' whereas a private partty can obviously not. I suspect when it is all said and done if your sole goal behind reselling the car is to make a profit it will be more trouble than it is worth.

In MA it appears this year and model(sans U/P) is barely breaking $30k retail from non-Lexus dealers/private sales.

Additional complications:

Finding a $30k buyer.

The title...less of an issue if you can stroke a check for the car; however, if you are going to finance it that adds an additional 30 days to title receipt. Very few buyers will wait.

Good luck!

Will do. Thanks for the advice. I will check them out right away and I'll tell them you sent me!

I really do appreciate your help.

Best wishes,

jase

Jase,

I have not seen your post on CL. What doin'?

Best,

Landis

How much does it cost to have a car down for 7 months while paying insurance, excise and registration fees? Talk about p-issing money away...

Additionally, as I first noted you are in a major city and an old SC300 isn't rocket science. Bring it somewhere else.

There is often confusion over exactly what routine maintenance is. Dealerships have begun to insist their customers perform more frequent check ups than the manufacturer which clearly benefits them. Providing you follow the manufacturer's recommendation you are covered.

For example, a local Honda dealership encourages oil changes every 3,750 which is considerably more frequent than what Honda recommends.

Nine times out of ten the warranty backed by the manufacturer far surpasses any third party warranty. While it may be a tad more dough up front you will not regret it.

Advice: Take the car to a competent shop. I am speechless at the notion of leaving a vehicle with a shop for 7 months. You arguably have no recourse after allowing it to sit with them for this long. You are in a major city so bring it to a dealer for gods sake if you can't find anyone else.

Geesh...

You might also post on ClubLexus.

!

Bring it somewhere else!!!

Could it be a head gasket (white smoke)?

On another note why don't you post on ClubLexus as their board is more active(.02)? I bet with a very good description you will get 10 responses in 24 hours.

*Term up to 5 years, based on 4.9% APR & $3000 down. All prices exclude tax & reg. Finance subject to lender approval.

The final payment & final APR will be determined by primary lender.

And this is clearly only your first hurdle. 4.9% on a pre-owned car......not !Removed! likely even with an 800 beacon credit score.

Additionally, they may be advertising salvage title vehicles which cannot be financed in most states or have extremely limiting stipulations.

It is too good to be true.

Remember, as a general rule and estimate multiply $20 by however many $1,000 the vehicle costs and this will approximate your 60 month payment (e.g. $20,000 car = 20 X $20 or $400 per month.

Should anyone be curious where this thread went the young man was treated to an IS.

ClickHereCL

This may be of help...

ClickHere

As others have said I would put some considerable thought into the temptation associated with a flashy, powerful, RWD vehicle as a first car. I can remember when I earned my license I was insistent that my father purchase a 3 series Bimmer for me. The day I passed the exam he stated, "I have a car for you". Ahhh the elation I experienced until he showed me the Olds. Cutlass sedan he had acquired. He thought I should spend a year in that before moving up to anything nicer, more dangerous and with less steel/iron to protect me. Within a year I rear-ended someone and blew the tranny.

I was then given a Corvette at 17 and within four months I wrapped it around a pole grand-standing!

That said if I were you I might purchase a non-turbo Volvo S40 for the lad.

The bottom line is I had been responsible, driving since 12 years old and still fell victim to inexperience and teenage testosterone peppered with some invincibility.

This was a Lexus dealership???

I hope not as that would indicate it is a used car. $18k for a '07 Civic pre-owned without certification is no deal.

I would assume this is at a new Honda dealer.

Curious... Does out the door translate to: Sales tax, plates/title, doc. fee included?

Does the purchase agreement that both you and the dealership signed say anything about the price being contingent upon using their financial services? If so, then no, they have the right to retrade on the price. But if not, then yes, you can enforce the contract and make them honor the sales price. If they refuse, inform them of the "bait & switch" laws. Trust me, all you'll have to say to them is the term "bait & switch", and they'll know exactly where you're going with this, and be forced to honor the contract price as AGREED upon in writing, with both your signature and theirs, so long as that purchase agreement does not say the price is contingent on using their financial department.

This is great advice. If the P & S is signed by both you/father and the sales manager with no mention of financing contingencies (which would be extremely rare) then they are by law obligated to hold up the deal. Particularly because you left a large deposit.

They won't sell you the car at that price anymore because their profit was in that 2% you avoided with the bank loan. They were going to get a kickback from the lender for selling you on a higher interest rate than normal. But to be honest, it can't be but a few hundred dollars at best. With 2%, and what, a 5 year term, on a loan of that size, you're not talking too much money. Might be worth coming up an additional $400 in your offer. You'll still be saving $360 a year with the bank loan. This was a Lexus dealership???

The dealer receives a flat from the bank ($200-$300 on avg.) simply for funneling the loan to the bank. Any percentage points they hold from there on could conceivably turn that into a $400 - $600 deal and potentially more. This fails to take into account any aftersell you may have bit on. (e.g. life and disability, a warranty, lo-jack, autobahn etc.) whose exact number might have been fudged in the loan work. By eliminating the financing you may have really thrown them for a loop. This however does not nullify your P & S ^ so play the game and insist they honor the deal or you may contact the Better Business Bureau.

.02

The SC300/400 are excellent vehicles which hold up extremely well. Like any vehicle they are prone to a few common problems. This thread is a great place for you to start reading up:

ClickHere

As you work in a dealership this may not apply to you, but be aware if you don't have a competent tech. and must visit the Lexus dealer the ownership experience will be lackluster.

Good Luck!

"FOR ALL YOU PEOPLE THAT TYPE IN CAPS....STOP!!!"

BTW indiasfinest, you need to use caps to start a sentence.......START!!!

Hilarious

First capitalized intro. in the thread!

I think thats a valid question, what kind of references do you not get?

Honestly, I have to agree. Its not the schools job to make sure nothing goes over your head. If you know the basic plot of these cultural stories you know probably about as much as people like I do that have never been religious and have never really gone to church.

X2

Do not allow yourself to be a victim.

specific references that i dont catch

Sounds like age old bitching and moaning to me. That affliction is theorized to predate Adam & Eve.