bean_8044

Shouldnt make much of a difference. I would change the struts while i had them off though since its not really an easy job

Maybe MSD wasnt exactly sure what they were talking about...? It really doesnt matter if it has individual coils or not, you just have to pull the trigger signal that goes to the ignitor instead. If your coils have three or more wires going to them, then you have the ignitor on the coil as opposed to the Supra/Soarer setup where the ignitor is in a different location. The signals go from the ECU to the ignitor and then to the individual coils. You may be able to use the eManage, but i wouldnt recommend it. Not worth it for the money in my opinoin. Since you have the SC430 you are pretty limited in your options to include standalone ECUs. Any install that is done will definitly be custom and you may lose some of your factory options

What kind of ignition !Removed! problems are you having? Are you talking about the retarding for shifting or something else???

you have an auto or manual trans? If the shifter is shaking then it may be good to check the trans mounts. Also Green Stuff will wear out FAST. They feel good, but dont last, especially on daily driving. You may want to try Red Stuff or just regular toyota pads

trans mounts are (about) directly underneath where the cup holder is. If you get the car in the air and look underneath you'll see where the driveshaft meets the transmission and right underneath that is the trans mount. Theres only one there and you cant miss it once youre looking at it. Its the only place where the transmission will connect to the body. You can replace it yourself if you have some jack-stands also

Im sure in some crazy profit making scheme Toyota(the owner of Lexus) would have put the almighty Lexus calipers on some of the lowly Toyota models.

Part # should be 0446524010 for front brake pads on the 93 SC300. According to Hoy Fox web page(www.toyotaandlexusparts.com) the prices are around $4.00 of each other between the toyota and lexus brands. Usually Hoy Fox prices are close to what any reasonable dealer would charge and if you go some place that charges more than that page, i would walk away.

Any Soarer from 91-01 is the same as the SC300/400

I have 18x8 in front and 18x10 in back. The fronts are tucked into the fender and the rears are about 1/2" below and it still rides good in my opinoin. Not harsh at all.

Lame. We should respect our cars for what it really is - a Lexus, not a Supra wannabe.

I hate to burst the ego bubble, but its a re-badged Toyota that youre driving.

what wiring?

Exactly. What wiring does a pushrod V8 need? What about a SC400 with a JZ swap? In the 400 its going to be just as hard if not more to put in the JZ over an old-school V8.

It may seem like sacrilige to ditch the toyota V8 for a chevy, but you could probably get just as much HP out of the 350 for half the cost in the 2J or 1UZ. Turbos are the replacement for displacement and you could slap em on either the 2j or 1uz, but then the cost goes up. You can find a 350 used alot less than a 2j since they practically fall from the skies. V8 to V8 theres no comparison in performance for dollar between the two, but 350 to 2j would be different. Only advantage that i could really see would be ease of installation for the 350. How much engine management/tuning/re-wiring will a pushrod v8 need in comparison to a high HP 2j?

Ill just put some 55gallon drums on it and float it to you

Definitly a shopping cart

Im selling my converted (A/T->M/T) Soarer TT pretty soon. Bought for $4k and selling for $2k. About 75k miles too ;)

Theres a few people on another forum that are doing the turbo SC400 route. I think theres even one that has a TT SC400. Costs are around 5-6k and you may need to give up the A/C depending on how you do it. Didnt Lextreme do a turbo LS400?

Is it just in the mornings or just when the engine is completely cooled down? It may be the water temp sensors also. I believe theres two for the JZ engines

Well, while youre down there you may as well replace the bushings for the sway bars(front and rear). Thats where that sqeaking is most likely coming from. The struts usually will make a hollow rattling noise when you go over bumps at speed, but not speed bumps.

The active suspension is probably going to be the best ride for the SCs. If your car didnt come with it, its a pain to put it in. Not impossible, but alot of work. Im pretty sure that none of the 300s came with, only the 400s. In the SC300 youd probably be better off going with stock toyota suspension, but out of the two brands mentioned, i would go with KYB for a softer ride

If your master cylinder was leaking then you should be able to tell with a rag. You may not notice alot of fluid, but youll definitly see the color of the firewall on the rag. Hydraulic fluid will eat through paint pretty fast and you will be able to look at it and see if its leaking that much. When you have a few hundred lbs or so in a hydraulic line any leak is a big leak

No, havent done it in the states, but its all about the sheer numbers of manual transmissions that are in the states. On okinawa, auto is the way to go since its all city traffic. In america, you have the wide open roads to fly on. You can do the mk3 supra, or get a Soarer front cut. Cost will probably be the same in the long run

If it was your master cylinder then you would not be able to put it in gear or out of gear. If you dont have any problems when youre driving(assuming that you can get going) then most likely its the clutch or pressure plate from how youre describing the problem. Or possibly the face of the flywheel...

If youre going to do a trans swap, you should be able to find the W58 and R154 pretty easily. If youre going to use the R154, look for old MKIII Supra Turbos. They are fairly plentiful in the US(more than where i live), and you will probably have to get a custom driveshaft made. Actually, you only need to have 20mm shaved off of it i believe. Its not as expensive as you might think(less than 200 for an aluminum replacement). If you do get the R154 then you need to get the bellhousing which can be sourced from someone doing a swap or buy it new from Toyota for 2-300. Also, you need the clutch setup since the R154 is a pull type and the W58 is push i believe. The clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder you should buy new and cost me around 150 for both from toyota. If you do the W58 then your best bet would be to find a wrecked car. MKIV supras also came with the W58 and again you would have to get a custom driveshaft unless you can find a MT SC300 driveshaft. Chances are if you can find the driveshaft then you should be able to find the trans it was attached to. The auto ECU will handle the missing trans also. Ive been running on an Auto ECU for the last five months with no problems

Could be a stuck lifter too. Most of the time an oil change will solve it

If its not shaking at all when you are driving normally, and only when youre applying brakes, then it would seem like its the rotor. Where do you feel the shaking at? Brake pedal, drivers seat, steering wheel....?

I didnt think the tranny swap was that hard. Everything was bolt on except for making the hole for the shifter(which was easy since the tunnel was stamped for it), and then drilling two holes for the clutch pedal assy(easy again since it was already stamped). You also have to bridge two wires on the auto trans harness so you can start the car, but thats all of the non-bolt on stuff. Ive never done a toyota tranny swap before then, but it was still pretty easy.