JDOwen2

Get some Prestone antifreeze and distilled water. Mix 50/50.

First, get a new coolant cap. Second, you need to bleed any air out of the cooling system. Start the car, turn on the A/C with heat on high and let the car run for 10 minutes. Leave the cap off for this. Add coolant as needed until full. Check coolant level next morning and add if necessary.

$120.00 :whistles: That guy must be really proud of his work. The following is for a 400 but similar, you should be able to apply this to your 300 thermostat

If your timid I'll do it for $100-parts included :D

BFI is cheapest and arguably the best. DIY.

My money is on the fan clutch.

Why mod a 10 year old car? That's like throwing your money out the window. Get a new one. Turbo'd Subaru, Mitshubishi, or Neon is the way to go. However, I like mine just the way it is.

Try a few transmission shops. They should be cheaper.

I think I'd wait about 10,000 miles unless the fluid gets really dirty quickly. Keep an eye on it.

I find a station then press and hold the numbered button until it beeps then move on to the next station and next numbered button.

Have you checked the rear fender wells?

Although this is for a v8, it should help you sort out what to do Belt tensioner

Found this on another site:

ok guys i know there is a correct dealership way to do this but i'm from the south so here is how I did it.

first is to get the resevoir off the first bolt is on top of the pump but you have to stick the socket threw the pully to get it. and the other two are on the back of the pump. then unclamp the hose that ataches to the side of the resevoir. it is better to do this not at the first coupleing but at the second. that way if you were to lazy to drain the system you wont dump fluid all over the alternater. be ready with a shop towel because obviously there is a conection at the bottem of the resevoir to the pump.

the next step is to remove the two vacume lines they run from the bottem right side of the pump off the fitting up to the manifold and valvecover.

next is the serpentine belt. (REDNECK TIP #1) take a long and big flat head skrewdriver place perpendicular to the belt on the engine side. Then grab each end of the srewdriver so that the belt runs between your hand and over the skrewdriver. Then pull really hard so the skrewdriver is wedged between the belt and pully then flop it off. (I wish i could have seen a lex technicians face when i did this)

next you remove the banjo fitting at the bottem right that the vacume lines attached to this recuires an adjutable wrench for the black upper half and a standard socket with torque wrench for the bottem half. (no the bolt is not standard but it is close enough not to strip it.)

last of all there are two more bolts that you acsess threw the pully and it's off.

Then use a Pully puller to remove the pully (REDNECK TIP #2) A crowbar works to just be gental and ****ch sides each time you yank on it.

now simply put the new pump in place(with out the pully) remount all the bolts lines resevoir, ect.

Now put the pully on (REDNECK TIP #3) place the pully on the shaft then place a socket over it and hit with a hammer to gently slide the pully onto the splines .Maker sure the pully is on the right way.

Then replace the belt. By now the tensioner will have tried to take up all the slack so just give it hell and have a buddy use a skrewdriver to pop it in place.

Then fill it up with fluid which won't take much since you were to lazy to drain the system. Let it sit for a few min. and fill up again. Then drive to the local Jiffy- lube and get your power steering flushed and your done.

That is the redneck way to fix the pump and it only costs 180(pump)+40(puller rental) - 40 (puller return)+ 3(bottle of fluid) - 80(core charge) = $100

Steering like your grandad's Cadi Priceless.

From what I have read it shouldn't be a problem. Just drain and refill with dino.

I got the part number for the plastic clip that holds the door actuator rod into the outside door handle. Driver's side part #69293-12060 passenger side part #69293-12050

I paid $4.77 plus tax from the Toyota dealer ship. My clip broke and the rod fell inside the door blocking the window from going all the way down. In the process of trying to make something work the door actuator rod broke. I found a used part and will attempt to replace it soon. I understand it's a real bear to get at. The Toyota nomenclature is

"Snap, Door outside".

CORVETTE! Z06!

I found the valve cover on my car was loose. The bolts near the firewall were only finger tight. There was a trail of oil down the side and back of the block. I was able to tighten them and didn't have to change the gasket.

You may need to have the system recharged. There is a low pressure switch that activates and it prevents the clutch from engaging when the freon charge is low.

You need new shocks.

I replaced mine a few months ago. Loosen belt tensioner and slip belt off. Unbolt the PS pump. Replace pump and put belt back on. The tricky part is bleeding the pump. I filled with new ATF and turned the wheel from lock to lock about 10 times. You can search for a post here for a more detailed explanation if that doesn't work, I guess I was lucky.

When was the last time a tune-up was done?

I just picked up a used factory spoiler and would like to know where do I splice in the wiring to make the brake light operational?

Could be wheel bearings, tire/wheel imbalance, steering rack bushings to name a few.