Blaiser

Been through multiple sets of RFT - bit the bullet and removed them and went with Continental DWS06 - BEST MOVE I EVER MADE. Also, had the car aligned and took the NEGATIVE CAMBER OUT OF THE REAR SUSPENSION WHEN I HAD IT ALIGNED so the tire sits flat now. ALL AND I MEAN ALL THE INNER TIRE WEAR IS ALL GONE. BEST TIRE IN MY OPINION FOR MY SC430

UPDATE FIX It was a software update fixed by Dealer

Just turned on Air Conditioner to LOW (Coldest Setting) Driver Side Vents BLOW ICE COLD - Passenger Side Center Blows Warm and Passenger Side Window Blowing Hot ??? Low on Freon or Blending Door Solenoid Bad? Anyone have this issue or the FIX?? Thank You in advance!

I would not replace the starter - you need to address the water getting into the fuse box 1st - The starter is not the problem unless it won't start or crank over. Clear the Sunroof Drains 1st - then clear the windshield cowl where water comes off the windshield the drain could be blocked and water is sitting in the Windshield Cowl and overflowing into your electrical which is causing the starter to crank and water in the car floors. The WIndshield Cowl Drain is located under the Windshield Wipers there's a drain under the wipers and below the Windshield that should collect water then drain that water down both pillars and under the wheels to the ground. Use a metal hanger or air compressor to clear the lines. To test to see if the drain is clear and drains properly - fill a 5 gallon bottle of water and slowly dump water into the windshield cowl it should drain - if it does not the windshield drain cowl is blocked and that could be the cause of you electrical issues. Let me know what you find feel free to call me if you need help. (856) 296-1238

Yes, my front windshield was replaced literally 4-5 times - Apparently the previous installers did not caulk it correctly and it rusted the frame behind windshield without my knowledge. WIndshield starting leaking and dripping while raining or heavy rain from headliner and dripped on my left pant leg if seated in car. Had a local window guy pull the windshield and he literally took pictures of the rust behind the windshield so it was not sealed correctly and the water was running down the driver side windshield pillar and shorting out the fuse box. (Car was starting and cranking by itself when it was sitting on my driveway by itself with the keys out of the ignition)! I also cleared out and blew out the sun roof drains on each 4 corners of the sun roof when opened - I also cleaned out and blew out the windshield drain trow below the windshield that was blocked with leaves this could cause all the water to overflow and run down the firewall. But ALL IN ALL the local Windshield guy thinks this was leaking for quite some time because the rust was really bad. He grinded the rust out then caulked and epoxied the *BLEEP* out of frame then he replaced the windshield. He did not have to replace the windshield with a new one when he removed it in his shop he was able to remove then replace the original. Problem went away no more miss fires!

Yes, All replaced with factory OEM O-Rings and Gaskets - looks like oil coming from between spark plug boot and 0"ring laying on rail then when car is in motion air blowing the oil along rail and onto the driver side manifold.

Just had my nephew put a new timing belt kit on my 2002 Lexus SC430 - replaced valve cover gaskets and Spark Plug "O-Rings" with Lexus factory gasket kit. After install I'm getting a slight leak from the Spark Plug Boots that is running out around the boots and down the rail and onto the Driver Side Exhaust and it;s starting to smoke from hitting the exhaust pipe - what could be the cause? Thinking Worn Old Spark Plug Boots? Please let me know what you guys think

Have a 1999 GS300 after heavy rains my #5 Cylinder has misfire. Windshield has been replaced almost 5 times due to roads in Pennsylvania and New Jersey. Last time I had windshield replaced technician said my car had bad rust around the window seal. More than likely the Window has been leaking for quite some time due to poor installations and poor caulking and sealant around window. Today after a heavy rain car misfiring. Popped the Hood and looked and found water on the #5 Cyliinder Wire and Spark Coil Module. Took a look and I'm thinking the Window Cowl Drain is blocked and when heavy water runs down it leaks and overflows the Cowl and leaks water into the #5 and #6 cylinders. Anyone else have this issue or fix to issue?

I have a 1999 GS-300 with 130,000 miles on it. Had lots of issues with the vehicle cranking over recently. Got into my car turned the ignition and click, nothing happened. Tried to crank the engine again and click! Nothing again...... My battery was my 1st thought but, my lights were bright and radio and fan were working right. So I saw a couple postings on the lexus owners club and thought I would tackle this job myself. This problem was intermittent, sometimes the car turned over and sometimes it didn't. Recently it would take me up to 10 minutes for the car to crank over and start, so I had to do something. I just finished up the job in about 2 hours (start to finish) and thought somebody might read this and make it useful. So here I go to try and tell you how to fix the starter problem and tell you what tools you'll need. Actually after doing the job it was well worth the effort. The problem turned out to be the "Copper Contacts inside the Starter Solenoid" with a total bill of $5.00 (yep I said Five Dollars if you do it yourself). Before you begin, locate your local Alternator/Starter Rebuilding Shop, you'll need them for the Copper Contacts that are located inside the Starter Solenoid ($5.Dollars) They sold them to me separately. Tools required: Patience, 10mm., 12mm.,14mm.,15mm,16mm socket, socket wrench, universal swivel socket attachment, (2) Extra Long Socket Extensions 12"inches each, 9/32"nds nut runner or socket. So here we go: Step by step 1st Things First - you'll need to disconnect your battery to the car both positive and negative leads. Pop your hood. You need a 10 mm. socket and socket wrench to disconnect the battery. (Remember, you'll lose all your settings on your radio, seat memory etc.... but worth it - and if you have any warning light on your dash, like check engine light they'll go off too after you disconnect and reconnect the battery.) The starter and solenoid are located on the driver side of the car engine. They are piggybacked next to each other in one unit. 2nd - you need to disconnect the transmission dip stick to move it out of your way to get the starter out. (You'll need a 12mm. socket with socket wrench) The bolt is located at the top of the dip stick that is attached to the engine. Feel free to pull the dip stick all the way out and put it in a safe place. You don't actually need to take the outside shell of the dip stick out all the way just pull it out about 4 inches and move it to the right or left, it's attached at the bottom by a rubber wire holding clamp. Just move it aside for now. 3rd - Disconnect the lead wires that are going to the starter, there are two - one is a black push connector that you must push the center button in to remove the wire connector as you pull the wire out, and the other is under the rubber black boot that is the power connection that is coming from your battery. Pull back the black rubber boot and expose the 12 mm. nut that must be removed to get the cable off the starter. You'll need a 12mm. socket and wrench to get this nut off. Once you remove the cable put the 12mm. nut back on the starter so it doen't get lost. 4th - Crawl under your vehicle and take your 14 mm. socket, socket wrench and swivel adapter with you with (2) Extra Long 12" inch extentions, you'll need the extra lengths to get the bolts to turn and free your rachet up to swing and loosen the 14mm. bolt heads. Don't take the bolts out all the way, leave them in housing as long as the starter is able to come out. The only reason I say this is because the starter will be easier to re-install once your done fixing it. Now, take your starter out from the bottom, it's a little tight but it will come out. 5th - Put your starter on a work bench or preferably a Vice to hold the starter in place so it won't fall. Locate the (3) 9/32" inch cover nuts and remove them with a 9/32" inch nut runner or socket. Take care not to lose the nuts. Remove the top cover of the solenoid. Once you remove the top cover you'll see the two copper contacts on opposite sides of the solenoid. Remove the center copper solenoid, be careful because at the bottom of the solenoid is a pointed tip with a long 3" spring that actually pushed the started gear out once powered on with your ignition key. Put this center solenoid off to the side with the 3" Spring. Now locate the two copper contacts on opposite sides of the solenoid housing (these are the contacts that need to be replaced.. these are the parts that are causing all your problems with your starter - all for $5 Bucks, notice how black and pitted the copper contacts are). At this point this is where I actually took my whole starter to a Alternator/Starter Rebuildng Shop in a plastic bag with the solenoid cover off and showed them the starter and contacts and they had them in stock. (The 2 Copper Contacts) were tiny copper 90 degree clips with a 1/4 Moon Shape to them, no larger than 1 1/2"inches and no bigger than a quarter. Once I got the Copper Contacts back home the fun started! I can't believe how little they were and how easy they were going to be replaced for just $5. Five bucks. This was going to save me a ton of money. Now this is where you'll need to take the (2) nuts off the one side of the solenoid, one nut (12 mm.) is where we originally removed the cable wire from the battery and there is another nut that holds the copper contact into place. I think this is a 15mm. socket (but don't quote me on this one - sorry I forgot what size it was), but remove this nut also, this is the last nut holding the copper contact into place. Once you remove the nut you'll be able to slide the copper contact out, but be careful not to lose the thin washer and small rubber O-Ring attached to the Copper Contact Post. One side of the contact is a Rectangular Copper Square attached to a Copper Post the Copper Contact actually slides over the post for mounting purposes. Take note how the contact is positioned because you'll have to re-install the NEW Copper Contact the same way. You can remove the contact now. Make sure you note what Copper Contact goes where, one is larger than the other. Replace the contact with the same NEW COPPER CONTACT and re-install the same way. Now on the opposite side, slide back the rubber boot that is covering the other contact post bolt and nuts. Be careful because their is another small washer and "O-Ring" on the other side too. Take care to remove the Copper Contacts the same way and install the other NEW COPPER CONTACT and re-install the same way. Re-assemble the Nuts in the same manner and tighten. Slide the boot cover back over the post and re-assemble putting the center solenoid back inside the housing, re-install the cover of the solenoid. Your starter solenoid is now complete. Re-assemble everything is reverse order and now your done. Hope this helps the Do-It-Yourself Guys. Any questions, feel free to comment me back. Hope I didn't miss anything.... Blaise

UPDATE;;; FIXED!! This week while I had spare time on my hands I took my car to a Local Auto Glass Shop to have the perfectly fine Windshield pulled from the car for the Auto Glass Shop to replace the Windshield. Within 1/2 hour I received a phone call from the owner who said "WHOEVER REPLACED THE WINDSHIELD LAST DID NOT REPLACE THE TOP RAIL" and the entire frame of the windshield has ROTTED and has been leaking for years. The Top Rail had 3/4 rivets that were the size of a pencil that were allowing water to sit in the channel and sat in there and rotted and corroded the Windshled frame. Literally the entire Windshield channel had major rust around the entire frame of Windshield due to Incorrect Installation of Windshield. Granted this would of been the 5th Windshield but it was not the problem. The problem was the last installation. This would explain why my car was shorting out and burning out the starters! Auto Glass Shop saved my last windshield - ground out the rust - painted and Rust Proofed the entire frame. NO MORE LEAK - NO MORE WHISTLING WINDSHIELD - NO MORE STARTER SHORTING - NO MORE LEAK !!!

i have a 1999 Lexus GS-300 that started leaking water down the Driver Side Window Pillar - Half way Down between Ceiling and Window - This started about a year ago and thought maybe the Sunroof Drain line was clogged - Also thought the windshield was not sealed correctly (Im on my 4th windshield) but not replaced is the last 6 years or so. Every heavy rain the pillar leaks - Within the last year I've had the Starter act up - 1st occurrence was the Starter - Car was cranking by itself without the key in the ignition. So I replaced it (it literally fried). Replaced with NEW Rebuilt Starter from Local Starter/Alternator shop that last 2 weeks and it Fried too - had a Lexus Mechanic tell me the Chinese Rebuilt Starter was not properly rebuilt because the internal wires were not insulated with wires that were a HEAVIER Gauge Wire - So I returned it to the Starter/Alternator shop for a replacement that was under warranty. Owner game me a hard time but reluctantly replaced it at NO CHARGE. Replaced the starter and it worked for 5 weeks then it Fried too - (pattern seem to follow a HEAVY RAIN) where the car would crank on it's own and literally burn itself out. Checked the Ignition Switch and it was fine so I replace the starter with a Used OEM Lexus (DENSO) starter and it worked fine until this week. Got Heavy Rain from Hurricane Matthew and it acted up again. Car battery was dead - so I jumped it - The minute I put the jumper cables on the battery posts the car started to crank the starter without the Key being in the Ignition? I pulled the Internal Starter fuse (5 AMP FUSE) in the Interior Car Fuse Box near the Emergency Brake and tried jumping the car again but the Starter was engaging with the Key out of the Engine. Then I pulled the 40 AMP fuse from under the hood from the Fuse Box just in front of the battery and this allowed me to at least charge the battery. After the charge I replaced both fuses (the 5 amp fuse in the Cabin near the Emergency Brake and then the 40 amp fuse under the hood by the battery) and this seem to reset the starter and allowed me to at least start the car. There was noticeable moisture/ water in/around the bottom of the cabin under the Emergency Brake Fuse Box which more than likely was shorting out the starter and Dashboard because lights were flickering and coming on and off. I took a air Compressor to the Fuse Box with me to BLOW OUT any Visible Moisture from the Fuse Box inside the Cabin under the Emergency Brake Fuse Box. My question is has anyone ever had the same issue or a fix? There seems to be a connection with the Heavy Rain getting into the ECU and bridging some of the connections that is causing all the issues. I even tried locating the leak and rapped a Plastic Bag around the ECU to try and waterproof it. It seemed to work for a couple months until ALL the rain from Hurricane Matthew hit us here in Pennsylvania (not that much Thank God). Any Help/Comments are appreciated!