95_SC400

My opinion,

Sexist color in any sports car model is BLACK.

I agree, I love black on all cars. My other favorite is graphite. Looks really clean and sporty.

SuperCoupe400, The black tint, looks better with your car color.

I agree,I would go with black tint too. I think the amber tint would look better on a gold colored car.

Hey guys, i've had this problem for a while now but only now its finally starting to annoy me. Problem is my steering has WAY to much freeplay in it. I have to hold on to it like its going to fly away. the steering follows every single crack, bump, pebble in the road. I mean the steering wheel can turn about 30 degrees both way on its own. I have no clue what this could be.I've also had 3 allignments in past 6 months and it still seems to pull right. Any body know what this problem might be?

Hey, Thanks a bunch! that really helps. Im gonna do my setup next week, ill update how it goes. Thanks again.

What I did on mine (Pioneer factory system) is I tapped into all the necessary wiring going to the oem sub amp located on the package tray next to the oem subwoofer. I tapped into the hot, the ground & the on/off. I then cut the wires running from the oem sub amp to the oem subwoofer and ran them to the new sub amp (400 watt - I used a wire-to-rca type converter between the two sub amps for low level output) and then back to the oem subwoofer - now two amps pumping the sub - too much power so I replaced the 10" oem subwoofer with a higher wattage 10" Pioneer subwoofer (not alot of room over the gas tank, though, but it still fit). I added a separate subwoofer volume control device I found on ebay to my system ( I installed the volume control knob in the center console) which allows me to increase or decrease just the subwoofer volume. Pretty cool.

For the rear deck speakers (plus two more that I added sitting on the floor board behind the front seats) I cut the wires going to the rear deck speakers and ran them to the another new power amp and back to the oem rear speakers and the two that I added. For hot, ground & on/off I tapped into the the same wires for the new sub amp. Sounds awesome & no problems so far.

Hey, I am about to run my sub and amp setup really soon and what you just posted helped a lot. If possible please tell me the color wires you tapped into and even better would be if you included some pictures. Thanks!

That really is interesting. I've always wondered same thing when people refered to sedans as coupes. The sc is a coupe though, i think. If you look on Kelly Blue Book or even on insurance papers, it says coupe.

I want to keep the existing amp in the car.I was wondering if i could put in subs with their own dedicated amp in the trunk without having to get a new head-unit. kinda stripped for cash. and the amp has its own wired volume controller so i don't need to worry about volume from the head unit.

Pictures would be the greatest help

It is most definately possible. I myslef just bought a sub and amp last week and am going to hook it up some time soon. Im just not sure what wires to tap into yet. Ill update you with info and pics as soon as i get mine installed.

My Japanese Soarer 91/V8 tops out at 180/km per hour. Just found this out taking her out on the weekend. Before I found this out i was trying to get a Supercharger for my engine. So now the issue is.....is there any point to get one installed because of the speed restriction or can that be changed somehow through a little engine tweaking?

This can be tweaked. I dont know how exactly, but you take out the governer. You wont have a top speed but you will have to watch your rpm's and engine temp because by taking it out it will redline and overheat the engine. Thats all i know, im sure there is more out there. By getting a supercharger you wont just be getting top speed.The acceleration alone is worth it IMO. Up to you though. Good Luck.

Hey, I just bought a sub and amp and am going to install them soon. I wanted to know if i need a line output converter (high/low converter) LOC. Also wanted to know what lines i can tap into to connect the sub and amp to the stock audio system. I plan to remove stock sub and leave it as a port hole, in case that changes something. Any pics or suggestions would help. Thanks!

well i just bought this car a few days ago and it has been great untill tonight(i always have bad luck with used cars) anyways my streio works but theres no volume no sound to any of the spekers it just happened. i turbne on the car and it didnt work? any ideas would be helpful

thanks

tyler

Dont know what it could be, Sorry. Maybe try to take off your negative battery terminal and reset your ecu. Good Luck.

95_SC400, you gave some good info on how to use this stuff through the intake manifold. And I consider myself a moderate grease monkey. But on this, I just need to see some visuals on where exactly to pour this stuff (or have suctioned) into the engine. I went yesterday to use this stuff and ended up walking away scratching my head because the Seafoam instructions say something about using the pcv valve as a possible place to pour. But I can't find the pcv valve for the life of me. And the last thing I want to do is pour this someplace it should go and totally kill my engine.

So if someone would please post a pic of where exactly this stuff should be poured/suctioned-in it would be great. (I'll be doing the crank-case and gas tank applications later, but first i want to do the intake application)

Thanks a bunch.

Hey, its really simple actually. I included 3 pictures of what i mean and where it is. Basically, once you see the pictures you will know what im saying. What you will need to do is take off the tiny black cap that comes on the vacuum branches. Then slip on a hose like i mentioned before (from aquarium or medical oxygen tubing).By the way, there are 3 vacuum branches, i didnt know difference between them so i just did a lilttle bit into each branch. With one side on the branch, you then stick the other side into the can of seafoam or pour seafoam in cup to make it easier to see. And then either have some one hold a high idle or just keep your finger on the TPS and keep the idle up your self. By the way, before you do any seafoaming anywhere, you have to warm up your engine. So drive around a couple minutes. After doing the oil/crankcase, be sure to change your oil. The PCV valves are cleaned when you put seafoam through oil and intake, as far as i know. Good Luck!

OK, thanks every one, that definately helps. I think i will do what all of you said, seafoam and change all fluids and so on. Thanks again!

Ok, I know that there are strut bars that fit the sc400 with no problems. The reason i dont want to buy them is because of their price. I've been doing a lot of research and discovered that any supra strut bar will work. Upon reading on the other lexus forum, i got really confused as to what works and what doesnt. I want it mostly for looks but performance as well. I've searched ebay for supra strut bars and got a bunch of different ones for really cheap prices. My question is, what year and model supra strut bar will fit my 95 sc400? Secondly, are there any cons of getting a supra bar instead of a sc400 one? Anything will help. Thanks.

EDIT: After further reading, i found out that the 93-97 toyota supra turbo strut bar should work. Can anyone confirm?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STRUT-TOWER...sspagenameZWDVW

Thanks jibby.

95 i would use half a can and then change the oil after about 20 minutes of running it . The old oil in the engine is dirty now and needs to be changed . Just finish the job properly by treating it again.

I don;t know anything about RX products but i personally don;t like a wonder chemical as such . To me seafoam is just a carbon cleaner not a seal restorer or scratch fixer like many other products claim to be all in one bottle fixes.

All right, gochya. Thanks for clearing that up. In that case is there any products anybody can recommend for internal engine clean up?

Ok SK, i have a question then. Since i didnt change my oil, as i didnt know i had to after seafoaming. What are my choices? After all i did have a synthetic oil change done less then 500 miles ago. So the oil is brand new. Is my only choice to have another oil change? And since its been about a month, im sure that i have sludge build up as well. So i wanted to know, 1) what can i do to get rid of the sludge? 2) would putting a full can of seafoam into oil again then changing oil be a good idea?

I wanted to try that auto-rx stuff, but read that the car must have regular oil to begin with. As i've been told, its really bad to go from synthetic back to regular. So does that mean i cant use it at all? Thanks for all the help.

95_SC400

Thanks for the advice. I'll keep that in mind. But as i did mention, to meet my standards I need a replacement bumper. I actually found two little cracks underneath the bumper so that's it for me.

I am really getting anxious towards the openning time of the body shops I have in mind, and crossing fingers that it will be less than $1 grand for a new painted bumper. :cries:

Well up to you of course, but i think its worth a try to at least try and see how well you can fix it. Maybe you can even get it out to perfect condition. After all, it is free, so why not at least try. You can always go and buy a bumper. Good luck with your search and fix.

Yes I know it doesn't seem like it could crumple it, but oh well. The wait time is what's making me mad right now. Wasted one day because shops are closed due to being Jan 1st and hopefully the wait time won't be too long once I get it to the shop. Now I really have to be careful in where I go in the 4Runner so people that are picky like me won't see me. <_<

Hey, Sorry to hear about your misfortune. The good news is that your crumple really is easy to fix. I've had several friends crumple their bumper exactly the same way. What you need to do is, if possible take of bumper to make it REALLY easy. If you take off the bumper, what you do is heat up the crumple with a heat gun and with a hammer or anything really, push it back out. It will pop back out to almost perfect condition. If you dont take off your bumper you can basically do the same thing. Heat it up and from the back, with any tool just apply pressure untill it pops back out. Hope this helps. I know i've done this 4 times so far, so it definatly does work. Good Luck!

Hi, This brings up a question i've had for a while. Has anybody tried the TRD thermostat? It claims a 10 - 15 degree reduction in the valve temperature. Anybody think its worth it? Pros? Cons?

http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_thermostat.html

I did seafoam my car today , and right after I got done i saw that my CHECK ENGINE light is on . I disconnect and reconnected the battery to clear the code.

So far I have seen improvement in response.

Are you guys injecting the seafoam thru the brake booster line?.. I am sure many readers want to know how this proceedure is done...I need to seafoam again myself, my first seafoaming experience I went cheap on the seafoam because I was afraid I would foul my spark plugs...... Has anyone seafoamed the oil, tranny fluid, and or fuel?

PS..The video clearly illustrates the polution that is created when seafoaming. Curious, how did your neighbors like the smoke screens?

The only places i seafoamed were the intake manifold through the unused vacuum branches by using clear aquarium oxygen hosing and a cup. What i did was put about 1/2 a can of seafoam into the cup and put the hose in the cup and let the car suck it up. I maintained a high idle by holding down on the TPS. Next i poured a full can of seafoam into gas tank. And lastly 1/2 can into oil (crankcase). Shut off the car and waited roughly 5 mins and turned car back on and enjoyed the cloud of dense smoke. I did my seafoaming in front of my house in the daylight. All my neighbors came outside to see what was going on, but no complaints. Only thing i did that was VERY stupid was i poured a full can of seafoam into the gas tank when i had almost no gas left. Problem with that is that its supposed to be proportioned at 1 can to 25 gallons of gas. As soon as i started to actually drive my car felt like it was about to die. my rpm's were jumping up and down like crazy, I stalled out a couple times, my check engine light and trac off light were glowing and i couldnt go faster then 10 mph. I was scared to death that i might have killed something. So i put my car in neutral and rolled down the hill to fill up asap. Everything went back to normal and sounded great. I definatly felt results but about a 2 weeks later it seems to have went back to normal. A bit more responsive but the gear changes went back to being a bit rough. I am still very curious as to what i could have potentially done by basically running my engine on seafoam. So keep that in mind for who ever is going to seafoam their car, fill up first.

My next plan is to try this stuff called auto-rx. I've been told it gives great results, but takes some time to do.

Here are pics of before and after pics of what the product claims to do: http://www.auto-rx.com/rms13/index-2.htm

Here is how it works and all about the product: http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/applications.htm

Let me know if any one has tried this or even if you have any opinions. I just had an oil change with synthetic so i have ways to go before i try this.

I had eibach on my 94 sc400 with the original shocks and did not like the looks or the ride. The ride was not comfortable. I was bouncing a lot on the freeway. I'm not sure if my original shocks were bad or not. I went through a set of Toyo T1-S real fast on the rear wheels. Again, not sure if this was related to the eibach and original shock combo. Also the eibach lowers the car one inch all around. If you don't like the look of the front gap being bigger than the rear gap, then eibach springs are the not the way to go. You won't get that aggressive stance look if that is what you're looking for. $285 plus shipping and handling, $75 to have them installed and $75 for alignment. So for almost $500, I did not like it at all. Then again, this is my experience with the eibach with original shocks and not with tokico. I eventually got tein cs and loving it.

Hopes this help and good luck!

moony400

Thanks that does help. I just wanted to try this combo because on the other lexus forum it seems to be what almost everybody has. I will probably still go with the Tokico's but i dont know about the Eibachs now.

If anybody knows the spring rate of either the SC300 or SC400 Eibach springs that would be really helpful. Thanks!

Hey guys, I am about to change my struts to Tokicos and thinking about changing springs at the same time. I have access to Eibach springs, the only thing im unsure of whether they are for the sc300 or sc400. My question is:

1) Will this combo be too low?

2) Is there a difference between the SC300 and SC400 Eibach springs?

3) What else should I keep in mind or do in terms of suspension?

I am looking into changing my tranny mount in about 2 weeks and wanted to know 2 things. First, cheapest place to get it. Second, does anybody have any pics or at least a well detailed list of what i need and how to do it? Anything will be appreciated, Thanks!

I have been using online catalog. Best dat gum prices anywhere. Cheaper new than eBay used.

Thanks! unfortunately i already got the mount, but those prices are low at "Lexus Of Pembroke Pines". I'll use them from now on.

Found angel eyes for sale made specifically for the SC. If any body gets these post some pics.

http://www.advancedautomotiveconcepts.com/...esKitMain.shtml

This all sound great, but what if the problem is on the inside of the lights.. from water forming inside the light.

Great question. I myself can not see a little bit of my actual headlight because my driver's side lense is soaked with water on the inside. What i have read and am going to try in 2 weeks when i have free time is basically take out the headlight and spray it with something like windex or any liquid with color or soapy water, anyway, so first you completely spray the entire housing top to bottom (after removing all lights and electronics), then use a fan to blow inside the housing and look for the hole or crack that is letting in the water. A lot of SC's have this problem because it is a factory defect. Once i try it I will post some pics with hopefully good results.

I've never removed the lights on my GS, but I guess I've got to give this a try, everything looks awesome on my car except for the fogging in the lights. I hope windex won't damage that slight green tint.

Good luck doing it. Make sure you know where all the bolts are first. Once you unscrew them be careful taking out the headlights because you dont want to scratch anything. As for the tint, i don't think it would affect it, but to be on safe side maybe try soapy water with food coloring. I've also been told to try smoke instead. So maybe you might want to go that route instead. Let me know how it goes because im planning on doing my headlights next week.

I think a wholesale discount still makes it like $300-something.

Finding one used is next to impossible, as the SC has a low nose and those usually get tore up on parking curbs and such.

I just left mine off, no need to spend the money.

I'll let you know if i find anything. There is another type of lip out there, but the picture is the only place i've seen it. If you by any chance find this one, that would be awesome.