RDM

There could still be a large amount of fluid inside the intake, as soon as it begins leaking there's constant leakage into the plenum that saturates the entire intake, even if you disconnect the PS system. When the throttle opens the vacuum from the engine can wick the fluid through and into the combustion chambers.

I don't know if you have a different car than me but there are no plastic covers and the ends of the seat tracts and no bolts.

Any photos of what you are talking about would be helpful. Thanks

So how do you think the seats are secured, pixie dust? The 1st generation seats are all the same and mounted the same, there is a plastic cover at each far corner, the mounting feet as they're called, snap it off and there's nuts on the front two mounting points (though the stud they're threaded on sometimes comes out too) and bolts in the rear. 14mm head, M10x.125 pitch. When the seat jams as you mentioned you can remove the front two then lean it back slightly to get underneath and get the offending debris out, it's possible to remove the rears but you'll have to use a wrench with low clearance.

Replacing the plugs and wires is a 30 minute job max. You guys must be overthinking something.

Agreed, two coils fired by two igniters. A coil can become worse due to heat/vibration, giving you the on/off symptoms you describe.

Where from behind the engine? You could easily just have a cracked EGR tube that's allowed exhaust heat to burn up a portion of the transmission harness that runs behind the engine. There's also plenty of lesser issues that can cause engine hesitation, there are two coils which each fire four cylinders, one bad coil would essentially leave you with a four cylinder engine, could also be an igniter is bad and not even signaling the coil, the timing could be off, you could have a bad crank or cam sensor, or a bad mass airflow sensor.

Assuming both cylinder heads are warped due to engine hesitation is like assuming that if you have a cough, you have AIDS. There's far simpler answers to your problems.

Dealership or salvage yard. There's nowhere else you can buy OE parts.

Go somewhere else. There is only one alternator available for the '90-'94 LS400 and it has the round plug on it in case people are asking, but they shouldn't.

The IS300 steering wheel bolts right in, keeps cruise and horn, as well as airbag, but is beefier and more sporty than the LS wheel. In fact most Toyota wheels will fit too, much better choices to keep the car OE and save money.

If you own anything import and haven't heard of Tanabe, you're not very focused on performance. They are a very large, well established, and reputable brand with a long history in Japan and here as well.

I have the same ones on my car, however that price is ridiculous. You can search google and find them for less. I also hope you plan on replacing the shocks with better ones, the OE shocks won't be able to handle the lowering, and the upper mounts, they will be degraded from age and make a ton of noise if you leave them in place.

why whats wrong with them? is it the rims themselves or they just dont suit the car?

Again, it's my opinion, but they're too small, the tires are too tall, there's too much wheelwell gap, the design doesn't flow well with the car, and most importantly, they're polished. I think that anything polished or chrome looks like absolute trash. I live in Atlanta where the status of who you are is based on how big and how chrome your wheels are, I've never liked the look before but I really get tired of seeing it on every thug, ball player, rapper, and drug dealer's car in town.

Like everyone said though, it's your car. Caring what anyone else thinks about it is stupid, if you like it, if it makes you happy, nothing else matters. On numerous car forums I see people ask all the time for opinions and when they get them, they get upset and start fights. It's a pointless game because no one else's opinion should ever matter.

Honestly?

Ugh. But that's just my opinion.

Yes. All automatic transmissions have a filter. Some are not serviced without removal of the transmission, but the LS is not one of them. There's a pan and drain plug just like the oil. Filter is behind the pan.

'90-'94 is the same, the tab has a plastic cover on it, but sometimes the cover gets knocked off and the metal itself is hard to see. They can also be bent, one of mine is like that and requires a pair of vice grips to pull it hard enough to release.

The vehicle's owners manual has this information.

Transmission drain/refill plus filter.

You may not see any leaks, but that doesn't mean there isn't any. I'd pull the inspection cover off and look for fresh fluid there, the front seal (behind the torque converter) can easily wear and begin to lightly drip fluid at higher engine speeds. You don't see it because the fluid sits in the bellhousing and has to really pool up before having enough to drip out behind the cover. The transmission does have to be removed to replace that seal, seems like a lot of hassle but I suspect they'll do the rear main seal while they're in there and service anything else that's accessible. Good time to check the EGR tube for cracks too.

Also, a small leak won't be noticeable when driving/shifting, that's why you've never noticed it. Holding upwards of 8qts of fluid a few ounces aren't enough to make a difference until it's grown into a sizable pool.

On 1st gen models it just pops off. I'd suspect yours is similar.

You say you have power on both constant and ignition feeds, but are they correct? Some headunits only use the constant power to store settings, if it's backwards and connected to the ignition feed the radio will work but have no memory.

Salvage yards.

Sports and Imports just outside of Atlanta is a Lexus only yard, they have plenty of LSs to pick from.

Crazy--I have been a member for 7 years and never had anyone NOT read what I wrote then got mad about not understanding it. Are drinks being served here? It is funny to witness naiveness.

My first post stated that I had tint film on the inside of the windows. Is not that very clear here or what.

Ok,RDM, WHERE IS THE QUESTION THAT YOU SAID I DIDN'T ANSWER????? There is NOT one !!!!

Maybe you need to read this thread again before you get wound up not me. I answered your NON-question in the first post. I was attempting to clarify what I was asking because responses were as if things were unclear.

How else could I state that the windows had to be removed to install the film. When I removed a door panel once{the car has 208,000 miles on it so I have had it awhile) I can see the bottom of the glass and there is no way to install without removal.

Anyway, perhaps someone took all the glass out~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~BYE !!! el fin

No one is mad, and no one misunderstood your post. Not anyone I see anyway. You attacked me man, not the other way around. I'm just defending myself. You didn't specify for certain whether it was indeed film, and then you made the assumption it was done in Japan. How do you know that? If you want to attack someone to vent over your bad day or whatever it was, say so.

Also, your language skills need work because the statement : Is not that very clear here or what doesn't make a shred of sense. But I agree, I'm done too. I don't waste my time with people who clearly have a chip on their shoulder for no reason.

I always change the crank/cam seals on any car I work on if I'm in there. There's a few members who swear against doing them for some reason, but I think it's stupid to not replace a dry rotted, 20yr old seal when you're staring right at it.

You don't have to get an attitude about it. I asked a question, you could have just answered and said "Yes, it is film". No need to get all wound up about it.

I used to tint windows and you do not have to take the glass out to tint it fully. With the door panel removed you can go much farther down the glass behind the door, and I was taught to cut it flush to the top edge, leaving no gap. As for the rear glass, just the rear deck needs to be removed to tint it edge to edge, it certainly doesn't have to be out of the car. I highly doubt the door glass was taken out since there's a risk of scratching the tint when reinstalling it, but it is possible someone pulled them to tint them, it's very easy to remove the door glass anyway if so inclined. Do I think it's OE? No. But if you're so certain of it, call a dealer or put effort that direction instead of yelling out people here who've tried to help.

The VSC and brake noises could easily be related, a bad wheel speed sensor would trigger the VSC and make noises as well, as could a bad wheel bearing since the tone ring in pressed on to it. I'd start there.

The speedometer is driven by the VSS on the transmission, it's unlikely it's related and could just be a worn gear on the unit, or a faulty signal to the cluster. You can remove and inspect the VSS without too much trouble then start working your way backwards. Or forwards, in this case.

Salvage yards will have panels in average to good condition depending on how the car is stored. Upholstery shops can redye the panel if it's just a color issue, or even replace the material.

$350 is still high. You can buy quality pads at any OTC parts store for less than $90. The labor to replace them can't be more than an hour since you can do it yourself in 30 minutes and turning rotors isn't brain surgery, they can run the machine while they eat lunch.