RDM

The cam position sensors are mounted to the bottom of the 'distributors' as Lexus calls them. One on each side.

That's the problem, there is no part number for the ball joint since it's not sold separately, so you can't go look it up and cross reference it to another one. A lot of manufacturers do share parts between models, but not all the time. My Nissan 240SX (1997) front ball joints look identical to the earlier 1989-1994 models, but the taper is just a hair different enough to not fit right in the spindle and have 'slack', I'm sure there is a Toyota ball joint from another vehicle that's close enough to work but if they don't sell it separately either you're out of luck.

There is a company that sells an adapter to put an aftermarket radio into a Nakamichi equipped vehicle, I can't find the link but it's pricey, like $200, plus the radio, so consider that if repairs get too expensive.

I did the same, but off Ebay because I don't have an account (I don't like anal rape). I emailed him and sent him two units (one from a parts car I had) and he gave me a discount on the repair of one and kept the other to rebuild and sell. If you have a good pull-it yard nearby it wouldn't hurt to grab one, they're cheap there, and send it along with yours (or send it and keep yours installed to continue using) then send the second one in when yours is done. Doing that is a bit cheaper than buying a rebuilt unit outright.

Two different sensors. The 2pin sensor is for the ECU to measure temperature, the single pin sender is for the gauge. A bad coolant temp sensor would give a faulty signal, so I'd replace it for certain. you might also have a very small vacuum leak from the intake being apart, the gaskets are steel multi-use but a piece of grit or debris could be sitting under one.

Nothing will happen.

I've worked in car stereo for over a decade and have never disconnected a battery when doing installs, we were taught not to to keep from erasing the clock and radio memories as well as seat/steering wheel, anything that's preset.

Simply unplugging something doesn't do anything, if a wire was cut/chafed and exposed to metal you could possibly blow a fuse or ground out a control unit but that's unlikely in the case of just repairing/replacing components.

I did not know that since I have never replaced mine. I have all the tools including the pickle forks. Nice to know you don't need a press howver they work pretty easily as well once you get the thing set up right. Have you done anything with the uppers yet?

I haven't, they're not replaceable like the lowers. I plan on buying a pair of new arms from Arnott when I get the $199 ready, that's a third the price of OEM arms.

I would love to see the spec sheet you are referring to. I have never hear of a dealer not using the recommended product if it was available. I would never put anything but what was recommended by the manufacturer in my car without a lot of documentation and input. I have the same year car with 146k miles on it. I just did a flush at 145k with no issues using Toyota fluid. I used dextron 2(now 4 i think) in the power steering fluid only as stated in the manual. I would flush it out asap.

A lot of dealers use bulk fluids, Nissan for example is known to use Penzoil oils even though they sell their own brand Nissan oil in the parts department, it's basically just relabeled name brand stuff anyway.

The Valvoline fluid will be flushed by the end of the week and replaced by Toyota T-IV. The spec sheet can be found on the Valvoline website on the Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF page. In the middle of the page it allows you to download the product PDF. If you give me your fax or email, I would be happy to get it to you.

I am going to point it out to the dealership service manager and shop foreman, both of whom have always treated me very well. Beyond that, it is their business. I am only concerned that I have the recommended fluids and do not have a transmission problem caused by improper fluid. Thank you for viewing and adding your comments.

A series of drain/fills is quick and easy to do, and although people specify using OE fluid only, I've had no issues using over the counter Dexron III fluid in my car. I wouldn't think a lot about a little hiccup being fluid related unless it's too full or a bit low, you haven't had it in long enough to notice if the fluid type actually is causing an issue, nor was there enough added in if they only changed the front pump seal. They maybe lost 2-3qts, the transmission holds considerably more. I'd do the drain and refill a few times over the next few weeks and if you see further problems then consider taking action.

You can easily pull the tank fill pipe and vent hose from inside the car, since that's where it's located.

You don't have to 'drop' the tank, it's in the trunk. Pull the rear panel to gain access to the rear, pull the rear seat for front access. I forget which side it's all located on but either way it's simple and way cleaner than going under the car.

Depends. The Pioneer system only uses an external amplifier to drive the subwoofer. The Nakamichi system uses an amp for all the speakers.

Yes, as long as the offset isn't much higher.

Sorry, could have replied but I didn't see the post. You're right, all models of the LS400 are secured this way.

Lexus sells the entire upper control arm with ball joint, I have not found anyone aftermarket who sells just the ball joint.

You may also want to check your axle carrier bushings while you're out back, the rear most ones, these are known to wear (mine are toast) and are available aftermarket without buying everything.

If it's the same as the 1990-94 cars, it's under the car, basically below the driver's rear door, tucked up beside the frame rail.

I jump the switch on the drier, it's underneath the passenger side headlight.

Fuel level sending unit.

It's in the tank, there's an access hole from the trunk. Remove and replace.

You don't need a press since it's a bolt on, not press in type of joint. It's very easy, the ball joint is bolted to the spindle from below, drop those two bolts and it's free there, the actual ball joint passes through the lower control arm but since you're replacing it, a good whack from a hammer is all you need to loosen it. Then you just use a splitter to pop the tie rod end out and you're done. I'm not saying everyone could do it in 10 minutes, but someone with the tools and know how easily could. I did both of mine plus tie rods, tie rods ends, swaybar endlinks, and swaybar bushings in a little over an hour a few months ago.

A battery? you buy them at any auto parts store. Pretty self explanatory.

As far as size, the physical dimensions aren't your concern, it's the output of the battery. OE is around 600CCA, you want the most available in your size battery, probably can find something 950-1000CCA.

It took me that long to get the split pin and nut off the joint! Then after breaking my screw type separator I had to resort to to hammer in type,it took a little longer than 10 minutes.

I forgot you guys have way more corrosion in the UK. Add 20 minutes for a rusted chassis.

Seats should be the same up to 2000, but have different options and therefore different plugs for the electrical. Verify that first though.

Katskinz leather upholstery is a better than OE replacement, but they're sold in kits so you'd need to buy and redo all the seats for a match. OE covers are incredibly expensive but I have seen one or two through the years on ebay being sold cheaper by a dealer or someone else.

Finally, a local upholstery place may can do a patch/repair or just replace the damaged covers for a fair price, I had a customer that did his SC400 front seats in a leatherette material, similar to high grade vinyl, for $300, that's far cheaper than leather anywhere.

And to add, they are simple to replace. Takes less than 10 minutes per side.

A Toyota or Lexus emblem stamped on it.

Yes, the "sawtooth" wheels came in chrome. But only for first gen (possibly just 90-92). If they came off of a 95, they're not original to it.

Those wheels are 15", they wouldn't even fit on a 1995 LS due to the larger brakes.