RDM

Whatever kit it is, that's a UCF20. Not going to fit too well on your car.

Since the part has a ball joint in it, buying new is more advised, though few people ever replace the parts down the road the ball joints do wear out, why put an old one back on when a new one is really not that much more expensive? Now if it was an upper arm where it's like $400 new, I'd definitely go used, but an extra $40-50 is worth it for the peace of mind. Also if you really just want to save money, you can likely find it even cheaper used if you call a few salvage yards, if it's $100 new you can find it for $25-30 if you make the effort. If it was me though, I'd replace both sides with brand new. In fact I wonder if if they're that cheap for the UCF10, usually anything link related is minimum $200 on these cars.

Corner light, parking light, sidemarker light, lots of names for it, but if you're buying one online you'll see a picture of it more than likely. Easy to pick from there.

Hard to tell, but if the fender apron and core support aren't damaged then it's just simply replacing parts, you can do it yourself in a couple hours. Parts at a salvage yard won't be more than $1500.

Those are UCF21 headlights, it's a UCF21 chassis.

Shame I missed all the drama. I'm betting the o-ring too. My ruptured last Winter out of nowhere, it just dried up and cracked, allowing for a good gallon of coolant to leak out during warm up one morning. It sits on the front end of the heater pipe, fitted into the back of the water pump housing. $3 for the part, about an hour to replace if you're good, 3-4 hours if not. Also, the pipe in question is not required to be removed for either a water pump or a starter replacement. Someone lied to you. Can the crying stop now, or do we need to keep going?

That link, although a ton of excellent work, isn't what he asked. That shows converting the front bumper only on a UCF20 to the UCF30. This guy wants to convert the entire front end from UCF20 to UCF21 from what I read. The parts *should* all bolt on since the chassis is the same, but you'll need hood, fenders, headlights, bumper, and all associated parts to convert, which will be fairly expensive even through a salvage yard.

The 3rd post clearly lists this is the Pioneer amplifier for sale, not the Nakamichi. This post is also nearly a year old.

One way to verify application is to go to an auto parts site, say rockauto.com, and type the part in along with your make/model. Then cross reference the number to the other model. Say if you find a Moog part that fits the LS, then match it to the GS, you know for certain it's a direct crossover. I just did this and the part numbers do not match between a '99 LS and GS. So you can assume they are not the same. I know early generation LS and GS models shared lower ball joints, but not sure about other parts. Maybe by second generation they had evolved enough apart to no longer share components.

Unplug the fluid level sensor. Does it still do it? If not, then add fluid.

I'm surprised to read this. Nissan, as well as a few other manufacturers, offer lifetime warranties on passive restraint systems. On older model Altimas and 240SXs that used the automatic retractable belt systems they will even pay to upgrade to manual belts and delete the electronic mess. Seems Lexus, being a better quality company, would do the same.

There's a seller on Ebay who carries replicas of the LS 18" wheels, he also has the GS and IS 18"s too. They're not as strong as OEM, but a full set is right around $500. I have a set on my '92 and they've been fine for four years, no issues.

Screws at each bottom corner, then a lot of snaps. The 90-92 mouldings use several different type of snaps too, whereas the 93-94 only uses two kinds. Also, the later models have the rocker moulding the early cars didn't have, thus the door/fender/quarter pieces are all different. I upgraded my 1992 with the later moulding and learned this as I went along. Looks 10x better though now.

No clue what you mean by 'outer door panel', the door skin is glued and pinch welded to the door frame, replacing it requires several hours of labor. If you just want to replace the door entirely, which is the easy and quick route, unplug it and unbolt the door stop and hinges. Pretty self explanatory.