Mits Driver

My 2002 GS 300 with 65000 miles on it starts hard. It cranks a long time when cold before it starts. Does the straight 6 motor have a seperate start injector on it? If so where is it located. Additionally how much should it put out or does that vary with temparture, density ect? I had one go bad on a Mazda 929S once. I measured the output and found it was defective.

Did you check the runout on the front rotors after they were installed? If there was any rust on the hub where the old hole in the rotor was, or you didn't get a good turning job, not seated on the machine properly. Just something easy to check.

We need someone from the advertising agency that designs and produces Lexus printed materials to go to the CD/DVD archives and find the original layout files (probably QuarkXPress if they are vintage 1999) and generate some nice PDFs for this message board of the technical manuals ("shop manuals", what have you) that the mechanics refer to when they are using them for guidance in taking something apart (like an engine or an electric window). You don't want to have to get these from scans of the printed pages of an actual book; the files would be astronomically huge. That's why we need the source layout files. C'mon! we know you are out there. Do this for us! (send me a private email if you need technical support for this process).

Try this site for free manuals.http://bahamutcars.free.fr/workshop/GS_97-05/contents/index.html

I would like to know that as well.

I have a 1999 GS300.

I went to the Tag/Title place and the guy was in awe because my car showed up as a 1999 GS300 S.

What is the difference?

My interior is gray, with black wood. I have a dark maple shift knob. What color is yours?

I had trouble posting and the only attempt that got on was a one liner. I have a 2002 GS 300 Sport Design beautiful Silver. It has black wood trim except for the shift knob which may not be original. I have looked for a black wood one to no avail. The seats are ventilated with small holes It has Sport Design on the ash tray and front fenders. I has a nav system in it with DVD 2001. VER 1. I would like a later data base, but not at Lexus' price. I got the car at 45000 miles and it now has 64000. The check engine light has been a pain and so far required two coolant sensors and two oxygen sensors. Autozone will read the codes for free, and get the OEM parts. The car rides rather stiff, compared to what you say. Well I owned three Austin Healy 100's in another lifetime, and of course my wifes LS 400 is incomparable. I don't have another 300 to check. The car came out of Ft. Lauderdale and has corosion on all the under hood aluminum. I'm quite happy with the car, for what I paid. I did have to pull the left fron brake disc and clean behind it. The dealer had the disc's turned and they didn't clean the rust off the hub before reinstalling. The dredded shimmy at 62 MPH was the result. Thanks much Guy Telefunken for the tip.

My question is, WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE IN THE SPORT DESIGN and the straight 300? I have never seen another one, and they apparently discontinued them. Is there anywhere I can get the original shipping document for this car that would list the options, Or does anyone have a 2002 sales book? Thanks for reading.

Can anyone tell me the difference in the GS 300, and the GS 300 Sport Design?

Straight from the Discount tire website:

A tire receives its speed rating by the U.S. Government through meeting minimum standards for reaching and sustaining a specified speed. What does that mean to you? Well, in general, a higher speed rating will result in better car handling.

Two Important Notes When Considering Speed Rating:

• We do not recommend downgrading the speed rating of your tires. This may result in poor handling and unpredictable steering. However, if you want better cornering response, there is no problem installing a higher speed rated tire on your vehicle.

• Tire manufacturers recommend not mixing and matching tires with different speed ratings on your vehicle. It is recommended that speed-rated tires be replaced in sets of 4. If replaced in pairs, the new tires should be of the same or higher speed rating. If tires with different speed ratings are installed on a vehicle, it is recommended that they be installed with like pairs on the same axle. It is highly recommended the lower speed-rated tires be place on the front axle, regardless of which axle is the drive axle, to help prevent oversteer. (Oversteer occurs when the vehicle loses traction at the rear tires first, causing the vehicle to spin and the driver to lose control.) The speed rating for all tires will become that of the lowest speed-rated tire on the vehicle.

Below is a list of speed ratings along with the corresponding speeds they represent. Remember, the speeds are test speeds, not recommended speeds.

Q- Up to 100mph

R- Up to 106mph

S- Up to 112mph

T- Up to 118mph

U- Up to 124mph

H- Up to 130mph

V- Up to 149mph

W- Up to 168mph

Y- Up to 186mph

Z- 149mph and over

Being Canadian, I KNOW the whole country is being ripped off because I would be jumping for joy to find some comforttreads, pilots, or turanza serenity's up here for even under $160....

It also looked as if they saved all of the "X-rated" rubber for the condom industry.....

Any canadians here know the duty laws for getting tired in the states???

The Light is on. It went off for a while but came back on lately. I checked the gas cap but no luck. What other items make it come on.

I have about 56,000 on the odo and am intrigued by the possibility. Thanks.

I have 105K miles on my 1998 and still have the original bushings. Any and all vibration I ever had was corrected with tires and or proper rotor service. Just my $0.02.

Me again. I thought the last time I trued the left rotor to .003 inches I had solved the problem, but;. It was smooth as glass up to 115. The next day I drove to work again on the bypass at 65 to 75 and the vibration was back. The only difference was the tire had set overnight and were cool. Not real cold. Probably 65 F. I have a new set of Cooper Lifeliner Touring SLE 225/55R16, put on just before I bought it. Less than 1500 miles on them. They do have steel belts. Mounted by one of the big local dealers. Should know what they are doing. Swapped the fronts this morning and they seemed better. Since I have seen different tires pull or handle differently depending on where they were mounted. Work in progress. Since I have fooled with cars since my 49 Mercury, and 53, I think Red Ram Dodge contervitable, yes with a HEMI, and it was a real dragster. I swap tires while cleaning the windscreen. So I wish I knew. Will keep everyone updated, and will look at all tips. They're free. Ken

I have about 56,000 on the odo and am intrigued by the possibility. Thanks.

I have 105K miles on my 1998 and still have the original bushings. Any and all vibration I ever had was corrected with tires and or proper rotor service. Just my $0.02.

Me again. I thought the last time I trued the left rotor to .003 inches I had solved the problem, but;. It was smooth as glass up to 115. The next day I drove to work again on the bypass at 65 to 75 and the vibration was back. The only difference was the tire had set overnight and were cool. Not real cold. Probably 65 F. I have a new set of Cooper Lifeliner Touring SLE 225/55R16, put on just before I bought it. Less than 1500 miles on them. They do have steel belts. Mounted by one of the big local dealers. Should know what they are doing. Swapped the fronts this morning and they seemed better. Since I have seen different tires pull or handle differently depending on where they were mounted. Work in progress. Since I have fooled with cars since my 49 Mercury, and 53, I think Red Ram Dodge contervitable, yes with a HEMI, and it was a real dragster. I swap tires while cleaning the windscreen. So I wish I knew. Will keep everyone updated, and will look at all tips. They're free. Ken

I have about 56,000 on the odo and am intrigued by the possibility. Thanks.

I have 105K miles on my 1998 and still have the original bushings. Any and all vibration I ever had was corrected with tires and or proper rotor service. Just my $0.02.

Me again. I thought the last time I trued the left rotor to .003 inches I had solved the problem, but;. It was smooth as glass up to 115. The next day I drove to work again on the bypass at 65 to 75 and the vibration was back. The only difference was the tire had set overnight and were cool. Not real cold. Probably 65 F. I have a new set of Cooper Lifeliner Touring SLE 225/55R16, put on just before I bought it. Less than 1500 miles on them. They do have steel belts. Mounted by one of the big local dealers. Should know what they are doing. Swapped the fronts this morning and they seemed better. Since I have seen different tires pull or handle differently depending on where they were mounted. Work in progress. Since I have fooled with cars since my 49 Mercury, and 53, I think Red Ram Dodge contervitable, yes with a HEMI, and it was a real dragster. I swap tires while cleaning the windscreen. So I wish I knew. Will keep everyone updated, and will look at all tips. They're free. Ken

I wish I could help you. I just paid $226 for just the key. I only got one. I have a silver with gray 2002 Sport Design, and would like to know. Do you have the black wood trim, and is the shift knob black? Mine came with a dark walnut knob. Tried to run down the original, but no luck. Wrote the original owner to see if I could get a key. No answer. I would register the car with Lexus of America. They won't give you anything even if it is still in warranty, because of the salvage title, but they are very friendly, and have sent me manuals free for my GS 300 and my wifes LS 400 when I bought them used. FREE. They really value their customers. No I don't work for them. Just like the cars. Wish I could be more help. Ken

I have the black on black also but the shift knob was stolen at auction...that's how valuable they are!! Dealership told me shift knob alone is $400.00!!! I'll be checking out resellers to find one but I doubt i'll find an original. I might do a dash trim kit anyway to lighten up the interior...do your find the black on black is too dark or do you like the look. I think I'm screwed on the key situation, but I'm definitely NOT paying dealership price, I'm on the hunt for a reprogrammer and I will find one I'm sure...thanks for the tip about the manuals...D

My car is Silver with Gray interior. I like the colors. I think the black wood is better than any other with the gray. My wifes car is White with Tan interior. Or biege, and her wood is medium Walnut I guess. A good combination for the colors. I saw shift knobs on Ebay for a $100, No black ones though. Ken

It solved the problem. At least below 115 MPH. I hadn't had a chance to check it until a bit ago. I had started out rotating tires, I had to do this on my 93 Aerostar. Hadn't got to the idea of rotors not being mounted correctly. They were not in the original spot according to the rust marks left by the puller bolt holes. Polished everything up and the runout went to .003 of an inch. in the same bolt hole. Had a dial indicator I bought in 1959 when we were playing with Austin Healys, and Porsche's. The lighter the machine the more you feel a bad tire. That maybe why your family member doesn't think it matters. I you drive a 4 ton SUV with knobby tires on it who can tell over the roar. So thanks for the help, I might have got to the rotor mounting after a few nights sleep. Thats how I figured out how to get the caliper bolts out. Came to me in the night. Now tell me how to wire the side lights so they are also turn lights. One wire with a diode in it should do. Ken

However: On the trip to the airport this morning it vibrated again. Will start moving wheels again to see if one has a balance problem. I'm sure the disc trueing helped, at least it didn't hurt, but once again got the light shake at 60 to 75. I hadn't driven it in a couple of days, but the tire set shouldn't have been noticable after a few miles.

i am not sure if this will work, but logically if you splice the wires from the turn signal this should work as long as you completely disconnect the other wires to the harness. this should work however the lights will only blink/turn on when the blinker is on.

If you put a wire from the turn light to the side light with a diode in it wouldn't that work? I suppose the computer would give you all kinds of faults, and maybe eject you into outer space. I just think those are such a safety factor I'd like to do it. Any electrical engineers out there?

I know that this has been covered, I've read about the vehicle immobilizer program available from the dealership, one problem--I'm the second owner of a GS that has a salvage title and the previous owner provided no keys, not even a valet key for the car. I've read about the programming but without a master key, your done. Service manager at the local dealership told me that I can get someone to open up the current ecu and find out the code and match up a new master key which would cost much less the dealership new ecu and key program which runs about $1400.00. So I'm on the search for such a place in the NY area. Anyone have any links to such a place I'd greatly appreciate it...thanks for your time...

I wish I could help you. I just paid $226 for just the key. I only got one. I have a silver with gray 2002 Sport Design, and would like to know. Do you have the black wood trim, and is the shift knob black? Mine came with a dark walnut knob. Tried to run down the original, but no luck. Wrote the original owner to see if I could get a key. No answer. I would register the car with Lexus of America. They won't give you anything even if it is still in warranty, because of the salvage title, but they are very friendly, and have sent me manuals free for my GS 300 and my wifes LS 400 when I bought them used. FREE. They really value their customers. No I don't work for them. Just like the cars. Wish I could be more help. Ken

It solved the problem. At least below 115 MPH. I hadn't had a chance to check it until a bit ago. I had started out rotating tires, I had to do this on my 93 Aerostar. Hadn't got to the idea of rotors not being mounted correctly. They were not in the original spot according to the rust marks left by the puller bolt holes. Polished everything up and the runout went to .003 of an inch. in the same bolt hole. Had a dial indicator I bought in 1959 when we were playing with Austin Healys, and Porsche's. The lighter the machine the more you feel a bad tire. That maybe why your family member doesn't think it matters. I you drive a 4 ton SUV with knobby tires on it who can tell over the roar. So thanks for the help, I might have got to the rotor mounting after a few nights sleep. Thats how I figured out how to get the caliper bolts out. Came to me in the night. Now tell me how to wire the side lights so they are also turn lights. One wire with a diode in it should do. Ken

It is perfectly acceptable to have all the weights on the inside. Lexus wheels are specifically designed to not have an exterior wheel weight lig. It just plain looks better. With an accurate balancer being operated by a skilled operator, balancing wheels in this was is perfectly ok.

A complete and thorough brake job will most likely eliminate both the shake and pull. You may have a sticking caliper or other hardware missing or damaged. There are several clips, shims, and springs which must all be present and in the proper position for the brakes to work correctly. Also, cutting the rotors is not a twenty minute job as a majority of mechanics make it out to be. The rotors should be cut only on a properly calibrated brake lathe, meticulously measured and indexed at all five possible mounting positions on the hub to ensure the smallest possible runout in the mounted assembly. This takes time. For me, it takes about three hours per axle to do properly. I made a post on this procedure here.

As well, the balance should be checked and the roundness of the tires if vibration is persistant. A road-force wheel balancer is ideal for this purpose.

Of course a four wheel alignment isn't a bad idea either. During the alignment, any worn parts in the steering or suspension can be identified. These parts could have to do with the pulling you describe, particularly if the car does not track straight without the brakes being applied.

When all is well, the car should track straight and be able to be brought to a stop in a fairly straight line without even holding onto the steering wheel. This effect can vary somewhat depending on the road surface of course.

I dialed in the rotors. Left .032, right .003. So I pulled left and cleaned it up. Rusty. Now the dial is .003. It had been rotated on the hub and not cleaned up. Thanks for the tips.

The studs are connected to the hub.

It is rather easy to do on the front wheels, there rears should not be much harder once there is a opening for them ,otherwise you will have to remove the hub from the bearing to get the new bolts in and out.

I removed the rotors from the rear, but there was not enough room to change the studs without removing the hub/axle assembly.

On the front, I was NOT able to remove the assembly that holds the caliper because the two (17mm?) bolts that connect the caliper assembly to the car were WAY TOO TIGHT. We tried breaker bar, 3 ft pipe, air impact wrench, but nothing worked. The only thing we did not try was torching/heating the bolt and surrounding metal. The two bolts don't seem to be stripped, as we can get a good grip on them.

Any suggestions on how to remove them?

Go back to the Pipe. Turn the steering wheel so the back is out. For the left front wheel, turn hard right. Now you can get a socket with a one inch extension on the bolt. Put the pipe over a breaker bar handle and push down. I just did it yesterday. Mind had been off recently but put on by the Tire gorilla. Very tight.

Does any one know how to hook the Front Side Marker light up to the turn lights?

The car tracks good and stops straight from speed. I only has 46,000 miles on it. It just had a 4 wheel alignment, new tires, and rotors turned. The wobble is intermittent as is the stopping grab. What do you think about the VSC system acting up?

Highly unlikely. To test the theory, turn the VSC off and drive it.

I would do that if it did it more often. I have heard the wheel sensors sometimes do funny things. Have you any information on that?

It is perfectly acceptable to have all the weights on the inside. Lexus wheels are specifically designed to not have an exterior wheel weight lig. It just plain looks better. With an accurate balancer being operated by a skilled operator, balancing wheels in this was is perfectly ok.

A complete and thorough brake job will most likely eliminate both the shake and pull. You may have a sticking caliper or other hardware missing or damaged. There are several clips, shims, and springs which must all be present and in the proper position for the brakes to work correctly. Also, cutting the rotors is not a twenty minute job as a majority of mechanics make it out to be. The rotors should be cut only on a properly calibrated brake lathe, meticulously measured and indexed at all five possible mounting positions on the hub to ensure the smallest possible runout in the mounted assembly. This takes time. For me, it takes about three hours per axle to do properly. I made a post on this procedure here.

As well, the balance should be checked and the roundness of the tires if vibration is persistant. A road-force wheel balancer is ideal for this purpose.

Of course a four wheel alignment isn't a bad idea either. During the alignment, any worn parts in the steering or suspension can be identified. These parts could have to do with the pulling you describe, particularly if the car does not track straight without the brakes being applied.

When all is well, the car should track straight and be able to be brought to a stop in a fairly straight line without even holding onto the steering wheel. This effect can vary somewhat depending on the road surface of course.

The car tracks good and stops straight from speed. I only has 46,000 miles on it. It just had a 4 wheel alignment, new tires, and rotors turned. The wobble is intermittent as is the stopping grab. What do you think about the VSC system acting up?

I just bought the exact same car w/ 51k miles. What did you pay? I found (what i think) is a good deal of $21,500 total. Mine is silver w/ grey leather, also a Florida 1 owner. I don't know if it is considered a "pull" but my brakes behave similarly when I break at a low speed. I would most describe it as more of a slight rubbing/grinding feel towards the end of the breaking process. I haven't had it looked at yet so I am interested what you find out.

I just bought the exact same car w/ 51k miles. What did you pay? I found (what i think) is a good deal of $21,500 total. Mine is silver w/ grey leather, also a Florida 1 owner. I don't know if it is considered a "pull" but my brakes behave similarly when I break at a low speed. I would most describe it as more of a slight rubbing/grinding feel towards the end of the breaking process. I haven't had it looked at yet so I am interested what you find out.

Email me direct at krearl@aol.com I have too much information to junk up the foram.

A couple of months ago I bought a GS-300 Sport Design with 45,000 miles on it.Seems to be in very good shape. It was a one owner Florida car. According to Lexus the front brakes were worked on at about 30,000 miles. The dealer I bought the car from had the front rotors turned because they pulsated. The rotors look good and they have 31.5 MM left. My problem is every now and then from a slow, about 25 MPH stop one of the front brakes pull. The right one is the biggest offender. This doesn't happen very often and I have never encountered it from a high speed stop. Also I have noticed the steering wheel vibrates from time to time. I suspect this is because the balance weights are all on the inside of the fancy wheels and the twofrom tires get in just the right Sync. In the old days when I owned Austin Healys we used to split the weights from side to side. Another answer might be stick on weights on the center line of the wheel rotation plane. I have rotated all the tires to see if I can find the offender. They are new tires. Anybody have a clue? The brake pull bothers me most. Ken

Does anyone know how to connect the Marker lights to the turn signal lights? This is a 2002 GS300 Sport design. Also what is the difference in the 300 and the Sport Design 300?

I just bought an 02, with the Sport Design on the front quarter panel. What does that mean? I don't have the spoiler, or 17 inch wheels, but have a nav system.