leximus

I agree with IS400....but the terminal to diagnose your issue can also be found under the dash near your hood release (near your left knee). Here's a link to how to code read from this terminal using a simple wire: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

I agree with IS400....but the terminal to diagnose your issue can also be found under the dash near your hood release (near your left knee). Here's a link to how to code read from this terminal using a simple wire: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

I'd recommend getting 2" coil spacers. A 4-pack (2 for each rear coil) costs about $7.99. Gives about a 1/2" to 3/4" play, depending on what you have in the trunk. I had a sound system (2 amps, capasitor, 3-12" sub box) weighing in just under 90-100 lbs. which finally just gave me about a 1/2" play for each tire, just enough to take the rub out.

Let me know how it goes whether you roll your rears or not...LOL!

I went to Arnott Industries online (can't remember the URL) however, I was very displeased. Try Strutmasters.com and put in your make and model. I should have went with those. At Arnott, I paid about 750 for all 4 coil over strut/conventionals. I had my mechanic put them in for about 3 hours labor. He only charged 300, should have been 450. I was very unhappy with the ones I bought from Arnott as I thought my mechanic put the rears on the fronts and visa versa, however, he followed manufactures recommendations. I had to use clamps in the front to pull the car down and lifters in between the coils for the back to bring the back end up....I was so unhappy. There went my baby...

I do think it is the actuator(s)...better to have it diagnosed as I believe an actuator is quite less expensive than an air strut.

Let me know how things go....

Ciao!

Sounds like your air bag actuators are acting up. If you'd like to retain the air suspension, I would get your actuators checked out before the air bags go. It is quite expensive to replace each air bag, especially at the stealer. I eventually went to conventional coil over strut for my 91. Rides somewhat stiff but it's fixed. Let me know how it turns out....

You should be able to find a flawless 1st gen for the same price.

I would agree....

Just purchased a 98 LS400 from the dealer. MINT condition but no Owners Manual. I want to investigate this car from inside out. My unanswered question at this point is..what does the Function button do on the steering wheel? I haven't figured it out yet.

Thanks!

Leximus

Is your CEL (Check Engine Light) on also? You may need to read the codes associated. It also could be something in your brake system. Is your TRAC button pushed in or out? Have you played with that? I would start by removing your ECU fuse for about 20 seconds and then re-inserting. This should reset the ECU to a clean start. Then, when the TRAC comes on again, if it does, you can check the code(s) to diagnose the exact issue. Let me know how this turns out. I do have the repair manual electronically filed on my home computer, so I'll check back and send the attachment if needed for the TRAC portion.

I had a similar problem, but thought it was my alternator. Turned out the positve batery cable was not completely secured. Hmmm...

I have the same exact issues. the egr temp sensor itself may be acting up, or the vaccuum modulator might be getting clogged, but I do notice that most times when I "open her up" on the highway, the CEL goes off for about 60-100 miles then goes back on again shortly thereafter. A mechanic I know who is familiar with my car says the same thing you're saying about "the egr temp sensor itself may be acting up, or the vaccuum modulator might be getting clogged". He says if I don't get it diagnosed/worked on soon, that my O2 sensors may need to get changed (again). It bothers me to no end also. I don't have money for the parts, but I do have a mechanic that will come to my house, diagnose and fix the issue.

Have you noticed any effect on your gas mileage or anything like that? I certainly haven't...it just doesn't seem to run any differently than it ever did. Its gone on and off a couple times since I posted that...definetely getting annoying but seems to run fine.

Slight affect on the gas mileage. I'm just worried about replacing the O2 sensors AGAIN and then the EGR stuff...might as well get it done though...

I have a 91' Pearl White Lexus LS400. I just got both of my bumpers painted because the paint was cracking and chipping. The problem is that the white of the newly painted bumpers don't match the white on the rest of the car because the color tends to yellow a little bit with age.

Is there anything I can do to get a better match besides painting the rest of the car (b/c that would cost about $1,200 more. Is there any wax with a yellow tint that I can buy for the bumpers? Is there anything I can do to make the rest of the car whiter? I'm open to any suggestions.

I went to Auto Zone and picked up their pain (Arctic White) and sprayed my bumper. Then I used the Clear Cote in the same section and spayed it on first tacky, then a good coat. It yellows like polyurethane does and hues the white down to a slight slight yellow hue. If you really study the car, you could see the difference, but glancing at it for a few moments, it blends right in.

And if you press the button that says A/C on it, the A/C turns on!!! ;) Brilliant!!

LOL!!! 2 funny!!!

I have the same exact issues. the egr temp sensor itself may be acting up, or the vaccuum modulator might be getting clogged, but I do notice that most times when I "open her up" on the highway, the CEL goes off for about 60-100 miles then goes back on again shortly thereafter. A mechanic I know who is familiar with my car says the same thing you're saying about "the egr temp sensor itself may be acting up, or the vaccuum modulator might be getting clogged". He says if I don't get it diagnosed/worked on soon, that my O2 sensors may need to get changed (again). It bothers me to no end also. I don't have money for the parts, but I do have a mechanic that will come to my house, diagnose and fix the issue.

The route I had gone was going to conventional coil over strut from Arnott. I wasn't about to spend 1100 for each air suspension replacement (X4). However, I am very dissatisfied with Arnott's product as the rear end of my car is at least 3 inches lower than the front. I have had to purchase the rubber coil spacers (@ 5.99 for 4) to lift the car and have been replacing every three months as they wear. Additionally, I have heard good things about strutmaster's replacement conventional COS, so that is my next purchase...

If you extend/retract and/or raise/lower steering all the way then click 8 more times in same direction it will go even more.

Click "what" 8 times?

try arnott industries website (http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_LEXUS_Air_Suspension_Parts_yid7_pid65.html). scrool to the bottom of the page. you can get a pair of upper control arms (driver and passenger) for 199 plus S+H. I have to replace mine.

Thanks guys! So does $600 to install them seem a bit steep?

Are you replacing the upper AND lower control arms, is that where you're coming up with the 600? If just upper, for both sides, you would spend the $199 plus S&H for both sides (probably total 260ish). If your lowers also need replacement, i don't think arnott sells those.

"yes, right. its kind of puzzle, when overdrive light is on, it says .../OFF?. If your OD/OFF light is 'on' on the dash then OD is off. When no light appears, OD is on (engaged by pushing the OD button on gearshift, disengage when button is out).

On another note, I believe you can only get '98 and later manuals to download. Any earlier models, they will send you a "replica" of the original manual for the year of the car you requested.

Hope this helps.

try arnott industries website (http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_LEXUS_Air_Suspension_Parts_yid7_pid65.html). scrool to the bottom of the page. you can get a pair of upper control arms (driver and passenger) for 199 plus S+H. I have to replace mine.

Could it be your spark plugs? Timing belt? Just a thought as I had the same issue and when I changed the sparks, all was better. Haven't changed my belt yet though...

Try your lock/unlock electronic button with the window down and reach for the outside door hande and lift while the manual lock (near the internal door handle) goes towards the back of the car. It gets tricky and is extremely fast so you have to get it at the right time. If that doesn't work, try pushing the manual lock button (not the electronic lock/unlock) near the internal door handle back while holding in position as almost as hard as you can and try opening the door standardly. This, too, gets tricky and is extremely fast so you have to get it at the right time.

I've had the same problem all winter when it's cold out (under 32 degrees F) and these procedures helped each and every time.

Let me know if this helps!

Sorry, qha_vn. I got caught up trying to open my pool for this weeken'd festivities. I will look definitely later this afternoon or early tonight.

Mine does the same. I have a 91. I think it is standard. I believe the seatbelt light would stay lit when there is a problem somehow with the seatbelt. Somehow, I think it is electronically controlled. I don't have my manual downloaded on my work computer, but I do at home so I'll reply later on with the specifics if possible.

How important is this plastic air damn (LOL) piece? Mine was dragging last summer so I've had mine off since then. Anyone have a pic of what it looks like? :whistles: Is it like 3ft wide (driver side to passenger side) and 7 or so inches (from front of vehicle to back) with like a feed and drain piece? Also, shouldn't the car have an undercarraige plastic cover? I didn't have one when I purchased the vehicle.

Another question, my bumpers paint is cracking (front and back) and I'd like to get them repainted/refinished. Does anyone know where in the Connecticut area to get this done and how much? Or can I do this myself, but paint is hard to match. :cries:

Any help would be great!!!

Mucho gracia!

This may also help in your process: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/transmission/

Don't know if this will help, but my 91 Repair Manual indicates (also added the entire "drain" procedure):

REPLACE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID

a) Remove the drain plug and drain the fluid.

B) Reinstall the drain plug securely.

c) With the engine “OFF”, add new fluid through the dipstick tube.

Fluid: ATF Type T–II or equivalent

Drain and refill capacity (Reference): 2.0 liters (2.1 US qts, 1.8 Imp. qts)

d) Start the engine and shift the selector into all positions

from “R” through “L”, and then shift into “P” position.

e) With the engine idling, check the fluid level. Add fluid up to the “COOL”

level on the dipstick.

f) Check that the fluid level is in the “HOT” range at the normal operating

temperature (70–8°5C or 158–176°F) and add as necessary.

NOTICE: Do not overfill.