sahtt

I'm glad they at least replaced the idlers as well, but you didn't mention the seals unless I missed it, which are at least equally as important. You will probably have to continually add fluid [i'm assuming it was done correctly by the shop the first time it was filled] until it settles. Not abnormal when you remove all the fluid. As long as the temp guage doesn't go over the half mark, you are doing fine. 950 is a little high, but I'd give it some time to adjust and go lower, say 500 miles, before making a fuss about it as long as it is a smooth idle.

I've done a lot of work in the short amount of time I've owned this car to it, and mostly enjoyed it, but I have one 'issue' left. Once I lock the doors, if I try to open the car on the driver's door, the alarm goes off, EVERYtime. This started happening about 2 days after I bought it, what a surprise. I have to walk around to the passenger side and it is often embarrasing. I went through the records and it turns out a shop already 'fixed' the problem about two years ago. The part was 4.XX$ and the rest was labor. I'm sure I am competent enough to do it, as I've already tore the engine down and put it back together, but I don't know what to look for at all. I use the car fairly often and don't want to have the inner door missing while I try to figure it out. Any one have experience with this? What do I look for and what do I replace or adjust when I get the door paneling off? Thanks in advance.

I bought the same ones about 3 months ago. Easiest and least frustrating repair on my car; besides the slighly incompetent asian lady that took my order over the phone.

Frankly, you got ripped off IMO. The shop probably had some trouble with your car and charged you the extra hours over standard book time. At an independent shop, I'd say you were overcharged 500.00 minimum. Why did you have the coolant reservoir replaced? What was wrong with the sensor? I bought the TB, WP, all the seals, all the pullies [150+ alone], and an air and fuel filter from Seawell Lexus in dallas for 400.00, and that includes TX tax. I did all the labor myself in about 30 hours, and I am FAR from a mechanic. In fact, I missed a washer and did the whole process TWICE in that amount of time. I also had NO power tools and used a VERY time consuming chain wrench tool I was unfamiliar with to remove the crank/cam pulleys. I'd certainly make sure all the idle pullies and tensioner were replaced as well as the 2 cam and 1 crank seal for that price.

First, you need to figure out where, in regards to engine position, the leak is occuring. If your dealer failed to replace the crank and cam seals, it could be those leaking. No one puts enough emphasis on these being replaced. It is actually MORE labor than a standard timing belt job to replace the seals by about 30 minutes, and they seals cost about $15.00. You do not want to go in there twice for the same job, though this may be late regarding your position. Regardless, when I did my car the crank and cam seals were leaking very bad, but not near enough to put that much oil the ground. I'm going to bet it is from the oil pan or something, because the rear main seal, valve covergaskets, or cam and crank seals do not tend to leak near that much at a time. Good luck!

Hmm, I'll check it out. Unfortunately, I saw water dripping when I went outside to take the picture. I don't want to fathom what that will entail in the near future. I've already done almost the entire TB job twice now, 3rd time is not the charm, it'll be my breaking point.

My fault, it is a 91. Connector: Where the wire starts from: Thanks guys.

So.. could someone please take a few seconds to glance under the hood and see where this connector is supposed to go? It's the only sensor/wire in that area that isn't fastened down. Has a yellow end connector, the lead starts a couple inches to the right of the top right of the radiator and has about a foot of play. Thanks.

Filling her up with coolant and starting her tomorrow early afternoon, however: a.) There is an unconnected yellow sensor that comes from a harness near the top of the radiator in height off the ground, between the battery and the far right hand side of the radiator. It has about a foot of wiring behind it, so it could connect to anywhere on the right side of the motor. Doesn't mention it anywhere in the writeup, and I don't particularly remember disconnecting it. b.) Some auto trans fluid [it's pink and came from the right rear side of the transmission pan] leaked out during my 90k, from the transmission pan area, maybe 1/2-1 cup. I'm guessing it was caused by straining the auto fluid lines while installing the alternator, etc. When I check the fluid level it is 2" or so above the MAX line for WARM; WAY above where it is supposed to be cold. I checked it before I did this maint. and I believe it was the same. It has been changed fairly recently. Weird? Nothing is noticeably out of place when looking at all the lines from under the car. And off topic, how long do front pads usually last on this car? It has been less than 30k since the fronts were replaced and they are squeaking. Thanks again guys.

Since all the bolts were torqued correctly, it didn't take long to put the washer back in, with the blue loctite may I add, and put everything back together. I was able to double-triple check the timing this way as well. I am about to reassemble the drive pulleys, then it's just put the coolant system back together. Unfortuantely, I only have my motorcycle at my disposal, so I'm not 100% sure how I'm going to get all the coolant back here; I hate depending on rides. Even if I stuffed it in my backpack, no more than a gallon or two would fit and it would be unsafe. Oh well, much more important things to concern myself with.

Also, another minor question regarding the tensioner since you were looking in that are of your manual. My new one came with a 'pin' through it holding it down. I removed the pin about 1/2 way, which enabled me enough room to be able to install it while also putting enough tension on the belt to keep it taught. At this point I'm assuming I just pull the pin out with pliers after I'm all done? Thanks, Steve

Thanks again for your assistance and tip for the HEX. Here are a couple pictures of the washer, since I went ahead and took them. The wear pattern on the washer doesn't seem like it would be between the flat/solid waterpump unit [or it may be the block, doesn't matter] and the large cylinder shape of the HEX portion of the #1 idle pulley. It looks like a smaller washer has been against it, but perhaps I am mistaken. I could see how the extra couple mm's would make the timing belt fit better along the pulley though. Every other car I've owned has had a free version of the factory manual online, it is dissapointing there isn't one for this car, that i've found yet anyhow.

I don't think there is a part called a timing belt tensioner pulley, just the 2 idlers, and the actual timing belt tensioner. There is a drive belt tensioner pulley. Are you talking about the idler pulley [#2] with the HEX that touches the timing belt tensioner? I cannot recall if there was a spacer there, I certainly don't rememberp putting in one. It doesn't mention it in the write-up, are you sure there is a spacer between the waterpump unit and the other end of the HEX part of the idler pulley? Thanks a huge amount already, hopefully I'll figure this out. I already put everything but the radiator in, but if I have to tear it all back down, so be it.

I tried to look at all the possibilities. I went step-by-step while trying to put the washer anywhere I should it theorhetically could have gone. It is either too tight or too loose to fit most places, though there are one or two 14mm bolts where it could have gone in front. The washer has the twisting/torque effects of another washer on it as well, so I assume it may have gone in front of one of the few 14mm bolts. If that is the case and it causes problems, I can remove those bolts without tearing down the engine completely, for the most part. The picture is also much clearer on there than on my printed page.

Would if I could. My camera is with a friend in a different city this weekend. It is the only semi-large washer throughout the entire process if I'm not mistaken. I used process of elimination to make sure I wasn't missing the washer in any critical area. I went ahead on put everything back together and will finish up correcting the timing on the cam pulleys once I get the tensioner in, it's giving me a bit of a headache.

My schedule has been busy and I didn't get a chance to start on the lex until almost 6pm last evening. I made fantastic progress and tore everything down including replacing the crank seal, waterpump, all idlers, etc. This morning, just before I was going to start the great task of retightening the crank pulley, I realized I had a large washer/spacer left over that I must have overseen working with limited light last night. It's a couple mm's thick, about 1" diameter, and has a 9mm hole. The TB writeup from this forum I was roughly following had little mention of any spacer except for putting back on the timing cover, but the picture is blurry to the point of uselessness. I was unable to find any suitable location for the spacer that coordinates at all with this part. Unfortunately, I'm the type of guy that cannot go on knowing something is not right, or I'll be worrying about having a coolant leak or something every second I drive the car henceforth. I'm 99% sure the spacer has came from steps after removing the fan bracket on this write-up. A diagram of the parts would also probably solve my problem. Thanks guys.

You and Mehullica are right. You can use the crank pulley, I wasn't thinking clearly. That is a good idea for anyone attempting this next time. It is easy to position the chain wrench to support itself [against the lower frame for example] to increase your torque. But with the cam pulleys, especially the left one, you basically have to support it yourself.

I finally got the pulleys off. The one marked 'L' [on the right if you are looking at it from in front of the car] took about 275lbs. The 'R' took over 300lbs, I have no way of knowing exactly. It literally took everything in me before that damn thing got loose. I'm no hulk, but I'm 175lbs and can bench about 275lbs and work out 3 times a week for the last 3 or 4 yeras. The element of time can twist bolts huge amounts. I'd definetely get some PB blaster if I had to do it again. I already pulled one seal out but the new one didn't go in flush so I may have to rip it out and buy another one at Lexus tomorrow. I'm off to get some better dental tools to make the job easier since the crank seal will probably be just as much of a PITA. I would have never dreamed of putting that much force on it without knowing beforehand that is 100% the correct way to do it, thanks to you guys. My recommendation is use an air gun or soak it for 24 hours+ in PB blaster and have a friend help if you don't have fairly immediate success getting them off. Like mentioned above, it's the static torque of an impact gun that makes the job much easier.

You can't use a chain wrench on a pulley that still has the belt on it, but good idea. sahtt; OK, nobody else seems willing to ask the stupid question, so I will: There seems to be something wrong with this picture. Why is it, after applying 250 foot pounds of torque to a nut that was "supposed" to have been installed with 80 foot pounds, the nut is still not free? I'm not sure I'd be seeking out a "bigger lever" just yet. I know the question is of no help, but perhaps it will spare you having some otherwise serious damage that could have been avoided. Not a stupid question at all. This is the exact thought process that let me here to post this question. I already knew, in a general sense, how to remove them. I've done TB jobs on a couple other cars with a similar engine set-up in the same manner. I also didn't want to break something in the process, as there are few parts on this car that are cheap, and even fewer that aren't a PITA to remove [on the engine that is]. There was no guesswork involved in my calculations either, as the torque wrench is heavy duty and very accurate, over 100$ USD. It registered and gave way at 250lbs which shocked me, as that is what I had set it at. When looking very closely at the cams, it isn't 100% evident that the nuts come off in this fashion either. On the other hand, the pages of the service manual that were generously provided clearly show the same process I am undertaking. I'm about to go outside and try my luck again. Realistically, I'll probably doing the starter within the next 2 months as well. I've put about 1k miles in the car right now, but I'm obsessive about doing repairs/maint. in an orderly basis. I do NOT want to do anymore work on this car by accidently messing up the cams or the like.

You can't use a chain wrench on a pulley that still has the belt on it, but good idea.

Thanks a ton for the information. Though I'm still a bit worried. I put much more than 80lbs on the nuts, twice the torque required to remove the crank bolt, yet it didn't budge. So it 100% certainly left-loosey on these as well correct? Didn't mention left hand thread in the diagrams. I guess I can put force on it with a new-found confidence, perhaps that'll do the trick.

Anyone at least know the screen name of someone who may have done this I can attempt to contact?

When clicking on another member's profile, any attempt to send them an email or PM registers as an error message that says I do not have permission. I have briefly looked over the guidelines and see no reason why this occurs. It does the same if I go in my own profile and try to send a PM that way either. Thanks for any help, Steve

sahtt; Uhhhhh........................What year is your car?..................:whistles: You do know that once you remove the cam sprocket that valve spring pressure will probably cause the camshaft to rotate unless you have the actual camshaft locked off, don't you? The car is a 91. I'm looking for people with some experience actually doing this if possible. Yes the cams will rotate, it is somewhat unavoidable and doesn't really matter anyhow, as long as it is corrected once the new belt is back on. They rotate back even if the cam sprocket is still on once you turn them. When I say I put 250lbs of tq, I mean I locked the cam in place and put that much pressure counter-clockwise on the nut and it did nothing. Doesn't make any difference if the timing belt is on, and that doesn't even make sense as you can't use the chain wrench tool while the belt is still on the pulley. Someone here has bound to have done it themselves before.

I live in Austin as well, and own a 1991 LS400 with a little bit more mileage than yours. Congrats on your purchase. Lexus of Austin is not very popular. A few guys with newer cars that insist on taking their cars to the dealer even drive to San Antonio for work. The only proper place I know is Bearden Automotive off Techonology BLVD on 183N. They do quality work, but they are not cheap. Anyone that specializes in Lexus is going to cost you proportionally. My car was previously maintained by the PO for the last 5 years or so by Bearden Automotive and I'd had some discussions with them. I believe he has spent upwards of 5k there in totality. Coincidently, I do all my own work. Hopefully that was some help.