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jbarhorst2

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Posts posted by jbarhorst2

  1. Most vehicles have a lot of layers now in their rust protection systems. The entire paint system works in concert to prevent rust.

    Here is a quick summary of the layers.

    Electrogalvanized steel body panels (sometimes double sided).

    Some manufacturers use pre-primed (coil coated) steel for outer body panels.

    Phosphate layer (typically tri-metal --- nickel, zinc, manganese).

    Electrocoat.

    Primer Surfacer.

    Basecoat.

    Clearcoat.

    If you have a pearl coat paint (tri coat - normally Pearl White) you have another layer between the basecoat and the clearcoat.

    Tom

  2. There have been some issues with RXs built before a certain time period (I think it was January 2001). The engine could develop sludge if it was not properly maintained. Then the engine could fail.

    That's really all I have heard of.

    Of course, if it was well maintained, you may not have these issues.

    Tom

  3. Depending on your insurance it may not be as expensive as you think.

    I have glass replacement on my insurance and I don't pay anything when I need glass replaced. It costs a couple bucks a month, but I think it's worth it. Here in the midwest we get a lot of chips in th winter from the grit they put on the roads.

    If you have this insurance, go to the Lexus dealer and get a genuine part.

    Tom

  4. Here's a possibility, although I don't know how likely it may be.

    Perhaps the previous owner replaced the bulb that illuminates the ignition switch with a higher wattage version. Higher wattage = more heat. Maybe you should check to see if the bulb is stock.

    Tom

  5. I have not heard anyone talk about wheel bearings. I have a '97 SC300. Do the front wheel bearings require any routine maintenence? When I drove GM RWD cars I know that I had to repack the bearings every so often (at least at each brake job). Does the same hold true with the Lexus products, or are they different?

    Thanks

    Tom

  6. Stevie is right. The heat from the exhaust manifold can be excrutiating. You'll only do it once. Here's how I do mine. I drive the car and get it warmed up, then I drain the oil. Then I let it sit overnight. By the morning, the manifold is cold and the filter has drained as much as it possibly can. I put several paper towels at the bottom of the filter to catch as much of the oil that comes out as possible. It actually works fairly well.

    Good luck.

    Tom

  7. In the second link above, picture number 14 shows several round items with an X in the middle. These are your bulbs that have burned out for your buttons. Twist these out with a screwdriver and replace and you will be back in business. Your local dealer will have these, but my dealer did not have the right ones for my controls. They only had green covered bulbs instead of blue. I guess the newer cars have green. Go ahead and buy these bulbs and then take the colored rubber cover from your old bulbs and put them on the new. It's an easy job once you get the control box apart.

  8. There is a fuse, but don't rule out the possibility that they could both be burned out. Not everyone keeps a close eye on those bulbs and gets them replaced. I do a lot of night driving (a little over an hour a day) and my bulbs in my SC last only about a year and a half.

  9. Group,

    for those of you that have purchased from Irontoad.com, what has been your experience? I am one of those people who always doubts something that seems too good to be true.

    How can they sell the same items for that much less? For example, the oil filter I need is 1/2 the cost that the dealer charges.

    Do they buy up old merchandise that Toyota does not send to their dealers??

    Are there any issues with the products they have?

    Thanks

    Tom

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