grandpa_spec98

Checking back on this now that my parts are in and I’m going to take on the job, how could that bolt come off with the intake manifold still on the engine, can a socket set/wrench fit back there? I’d guess it’d be best to go out there and check but I’d like confirmation before I try.

Now that you mentioned this, is it possible to replace just the left bank of injectors? I noticed that the right bank of injectors are aftermarket, and the seals look almost new and the left bank were Denso injectors with cracked faded seals, I am guessing replacing the left bank would even out some of the rough running problems if I end up with Rock injectors that match the right bank. Just checking before I decide to go ahead and it runs on 6 1/2 cylinders.

I did look there, there appears to be some injectors that should work until I can put some OE Denso injectors in.

The other day I was driving around, everything was normal, car had decent power and was running great. Sometime later that day I noticed the smell of gasoline and a slight hesitation under acceleration. Great. One morning letting the car warm up, I notice the smell again, plus after leaving the driveway saw a fairly large puddle of fluid. Knowing the car wasn’t leaking before I quickly check to see what it is. Instantly knew it was gasoline, look back at the car and I saw it dripping at an almost impossible rate. Today when I went to check what the problem was, I pulled the left bank fuel rail and as I pulled out the last 3 injectors, the plastic bottom was cracked off and the o-rings were crunchy and mangled. Great again. (Probably original, 280k mile injectors) This car is my only transportation and I don’t really want to spend the $60 an injector for OE replacements, does anyone have any suggestions for until I can switch back to some OE Denso injectors?

The other day I was driving around, everything was normal, car had decent power and was running great. Sometime later that day I noticed the smell of gasoline and a slight hesitation under acceleration. Great. One morning letting the car warm up, I notice the smell again, plus after leaving the driveway saw a fairly large puddle of fluid. Knowing the car wasn’t leaking before I quickly check to see what it is. Instantly knew it was gasoline, look back at the car and I saw it dripping at an almost impossible rate. Today when I went to check what the problem was, I pulled the left bank fuel rail and as I pulled out the last 3 injectors, the plastic bottom was cracked off and the o-rings were crunchy and mangled. Great again. (Probably original, 280k mile injectors) This car is my only transportation and I don’t really want to spend the $60 an injector for OE replacements, does anyone have any suggestions for until I can switch back to some OE Denso injectors?

On the forum? There are plenty of videos about SC, LS, and GS 400s drifting. I find it interesting going with the LS though, the stock suspension is too rolly so coilovers are to come, as well as a 6 speed swap. Planning to keep the interior as natural looking as possible though, as well as the exterior.

Just saw this, I plan to do something like that, as well as a dual caliper setup in the rear, maintaining foot brake capabilities to the rear, being able to lock up the rear with a hydro, and a switch to turn off ABS if need be. (I presume ABS won't let the front wheels read 0 MPH and the rear read whatever during a burnout, it'd start pulsing the front brakes and I'd roll forward.

Thought for the ABS, possibly just a solenoid or switch for turning ABS on and off on the front. Not sure looking at wiring diagrams and inspecting my own car for ideas currently. I'll keep this thread updated if I make any progress.

Now, I love my LS the way it is, but I want to enjoy some... sideways driving with it. Welded diff and coilovers coming fairly soon, but almost all cars that go sideways have one thing in common. E brakes of some sort. Be it a hydro e-brake or a foot brake, there needs to be some mechanism to lock up the rear wheels and give you a start to your slide. My question for this "spirited driving" would be: How can I have a hydraulic e-brake that locks up the rears, and disconnect the rear brakes from the main brake pedal for burning the tires in Mexico, retaining ABS for the front? To recap, my idea is that the regular main brake pedal only actuates the front brakes, and keeps them locked when doing burnouts without holding the rear brake, keep abs for the front while moving, and have a hydraulic e-brake that locks up the rears. Independent front and rear brakes. Also, my standard parking brake mechanism in the rear is completely gone due to the previous owner using it to stop himself all the time while moving, and it suddenly "locked up" on the highway so he decided to completely remove the mechanism, so another level of complexity to this equation. Just some dumb ideas, if anyone knows anything or has a similar setup let me know, until then she'll be running stock.

Weird electrical issues happening recently… - Driving car around, battery is charged fine. I can tell the battery charge by the sound the tilt away wheel makes when it comes down and how quickly the engine turns over. Go to start the car, starts, runs for less than a second, then all power to everything in the car shuts off, almost like a dead battery. Turn the key to off and pull out, turn key and everything lights up, radio presets are gone and VSC needs to recalibrate. Now if you leave the key on while the car plays dead and open the hood, just touching the negative terminal on the battery (connected to the car still) with your finger, you get a shock, and then you hear everything turn on, fuel pump primes, e fan kicks in if up to temp, headlights come on if on auto and the throttle body starts clicking (re-calibrating VSC) - Ground cable looks fine, battery never discharges and no other electrical issues that I know of. I believe this is the third time this has happened and it starts right back up every time, recalibrates VSC and putts on down the road. - 98 LS400 281,000 Miles

Trying to program a remote I bought off of Ebay, says is compatible and I got the immobilizer function working and it starts the car, when programming the remote functions, it enters programming mode but doesn’t pick up the new remote. Incompatible? Missing a step? I don’t know.

How do I get my foglights to have both sections lit up, only have one on mine but the brighter picture has both.

I know (or think) the GS400 has the A650E like the LS does, could I just swap the steering wheel to get the shift buttons and do some simple wiring to my 98 LS or is it more complicated?

I think it is all kickdowns but I was in third and the kickdown to first was sickeningly slow.

So I took the old LS400 (98) for a joyride today, and to my surprise, at full throttle it falls flat on its face. At least 4 seconds before it decides to kickdown. I know the transmissions are electronically controlled, but is there a way to make the kickdown more responsive at all?