Dave_02RX300

Way cool!

Thanks - I will look for the linkages under the hood - I took a quick look yesterday but didn't see anything obvious - so I will check the pictures in the manuals and on-line pictures.

I had the IAC replaced about 1.5 years ago, when the (Certified PreOwned) warranty was still in effect. That was replaced because of a starting issue (well documented in the forums). The pedal had the same stickiness before and after.

Thanks

-Dave

I found this in the ES300 Forum:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...96&hl=pedal

Sometimes, pushing the pedal takes a bit more force, from a stop, as if it is slightly stuck.

I have the same thing going on with my 2002 RX300 - Do you have any photos or other detailed descriptions of what you opened, cleaned, lubed and closed?

I read a post in this RX300 Forum that says it is all electronic, then another post about hesitation (not what I have). There must be some kind of linkages to lube for this - can't be all electronic, can it?

Thanks

-Dave

Thanks for the diags info

I mentioned this car is 1993 ES300 in my first/second post. My user name refers to my RX300 2002 because that was my first (used CPO) Lexus.

This ES300 I inherited from my Dad when he passed away last year...

Wow - the diagnostic mode really works, just like you said it would

The codes were: 21 then 41, flashing.

-Dave

Great idea - lube the moving parts down there.

Thanks again - I'll report the diagnostic codes, if there are any, sometime tomorrow

-Dave

Thanks

I tried to wiggle that valve/cable assembly. Then I started the car, and ran the system in Auto mode, and went Max cold to max hot, and back and forth a few times, and my friend could see the valve/cable moving under the hood. I think I just now unstuck the thing!

I drove for about 20 minutes, and selected various temperatures, and it seems to work fine now. I think my poking around down there unstuck it or something?!

I will run the diagnostics as explained 2 posts above, and see if there are any codes. But I think somehow the valve was stuck in the HOT position.

Intermittent stuff like this seems to be typical of my particular car.

Thanks

-Dave

Does the valve look like this? (have hopefully attached a photo I found of a new valve)

I don't have a camera with me right now - but I can see a (really dirty) version of this kind of valve, under the hood, on the driver's side, near the firewall, and there is a cable attached to it. Is this the heater valve?

I forgot to mention: 1993 ES300, with about 100k miles.

I have the opposite problem as this one:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...755&hl=heat

When I turn on the fan to ANY temperature, I get maximum heating, even with the A/C setting on. This happened suddenly yesterday.

I know the A/C works (or used to work) because I had major service on it about 6 months ago. Also, when I turn on the A/C and get a blast of blow-dryer hot air, I can feel the compressor kick in.

When I start the car cold, and turn on the A/C - I get even colder air, so I know the A/C is working. But once the engine heats up, I think the heater max 100% issue overtakes my A/C and then all I get is fire-hot air.

Is there a thermostat or something that regulates the cabin heater? Because I think it's stuck in maximum temperature ON.

Any and all fan settings send out max. heat.

I read in the linked post above there is a cable or something under the hood? What's that?

Thanks

-Dave

Hi - my brother found the key.

It works the trunk OK, which is better than using the valet key.

However, I think the battery is dead: because the button on it doesn't do anything (like unlock or lock the doors), and using it on the passenger side sets off the alarm.

Question: is it possible to replace the battery without having to reprogram it afterwards? I imagine I just open it up (screwdriver or other tool) and replace the battery with a new one (Duracell).

Thanks

-D

Here's the dealer's explanation on this:

During inspection found fluid leaking from rear of vehicle. Inspection finds brake fluid leaking from one of two main fluid lines to the rear of the vehicle at the fluid proportion valve. The line is severely rusted -- to repair this condition replacement of all metal and rubber brake lines at the rear of vehicle and the proportion valve. Estimate $3,550

Wow - that's something to think about.

I took it back from Lexus dealer, and as mentioned, Sears won't touch it - so off to Toyota dealer Monday for an evaluation, and I'm going to tell him basically what you told me. I don't see how anything on an old car could be 3k$, except if you got a new engine from Xzbit on Pimp My Ride or something.

I have been searching the net for this specific part to see if it's a jillion dollars, but you answered my question.

Both Lexus and Sears said it's all corroded under there, but I assume the brake lines are stainless steel, and as you mentioned, should be OK, except at the junctions.

So if Toyota says 3k$, I really need to find a real mechanic like you mentioned. The question is, in San Diego, who is that mechanic?

Until I brought my 1993 ES300 into the dealer for this, I had not heard of this valve.

Symptoms: Brake light came on, and fluid is slightly low, and I found some fluid under the car (just a bit) at the rear. I figured it was a minor leak in one of the lines or something not tightened correctly.

Dealer diagnosis: Inspection finds brake fluid leaking from one of two main fluid lines to the rear of the vehicle at the fluid proportion valve. The line is severely rusted. To repair this condition, replacement of all metal and rubber brake lines at the rear of vehicle and the proportion valve.

Sears diagnosis: Fluid proportion valve - need to take it to the dealer...!

The problem is the 3500$ estimate for this job. Is that what it really costs? Is it possible to replace just this value and the leaks of the lines to it? Or is the dealer being over cautious and profitable in replacing more of the system?

Super - thanks for the info

The A/C exp. valve, replace seals and replace condenser and all the other crap behind the dash was about 1500$

I will check the Timing Belt. and for more fun, I am going to try to peak behind the carpet and see if this car has a cabin filter - I doubt that it does.

This 1993 spent the last 15 years in the Chicago area, but it's only 98k miles old. My guess is the age plus the fact that I drove it cross-country (to CA) running the A/C most of the way... Hopefully with all the new plumbing, I won't have to mess with the A/C again.

The owner's guide is vague on timing belt - so I'm going to spend a few hours reading more posts here to take a guess at "what's next"

Thanks

-D

I scanned some older posts,

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...p;hl=evaporator

And some DIY's felt that the dashboard didn't have to come out ($$$ labor) for the evaporator.

However, my situation required evaporator and the condenser (next to the heater), and the dealer had to remove the dash (big bucks) to do this job. This dealer hasn't ever ripped me off before.. so my guess is the condenser required dash removal.

Is this basically correct?

Also, searches of this forum indicate that A/C is problematic on this model (1993) ES300.

-Dave

I'm not an expert but it sounds to me (and I may be wrong) like the IACV

My other Lexus is an '02 RX300, and it required replacing the IACV (you can search on this term). It's like a choke.

Here's a link to the RX300 pinned post about this gizmo.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...748&hl=IACV

-Dave

(Dear Moderators - if this should go to the ES300 Forum, sorry about that - please move it or delete it - Dave)

Well - since you asked

I have "owned" the ES300 since I drive it back from my Dad's house in IL to CA (he passed away in Jan. and it makes me feel good to own his car since it was his best friend's car before he owned it and so on...) - I just couldn't sell it.

So technically it's been in the family for 10+ years, but under my control for a month.

What is "a ton of work?" - glad you asked. It's low mileage at 98k, 2285 miles was driving from 60202 to 92130.

It had an exhaust leak, and a loud exhaust from the leaks, and a missing pipe of the dual tail pipe - so that whole shebang got replaced (850$)

Oil changed because our records show that was required.

Hood shocks were shot - got new ones so it doesn't close on our heads or hands.

"Brake" light came on and stayed on 2 days after I got it home. Not the parking brake, not the fluid level. It's the reservoir float and electronics.

A/C - blew cold air until 2 days after I got it home - then warm air. Had the system checked for leaks. Found a big leak where they attached the charging unit (it was down to 1/2 pound). Got it home, 1 day later blew warm air. Had it rechecked and found the condenser is shot - so they gotta pull the dashboard out to get to that - this is the big ticket item. It's about 1500$ parts and labor.

So, I'm into it for about 3k$ in fixes, but the transmission seems OK.

I gotta grease the antenna because it looks dicey - doesn't seem to go up more than about a foot - how high is it supposed to go?

Brakes and pad are good - I have records of that maintenance.

It's not like the ES350 loaner -but it's not 35-40k$ either.

2nd best thing about it: 27MPG at 75MPH on the highway.

While my 1993 ES300 (98k miles) is in the shop for a ton of work, the dealer loaned me a 2007 ES350.

So I thought I would pop over here to this forum.

Jeez, what a difference - you guys are all talking about bluetooth and DVD players, and downloading cell phone books, and windshield tint, and we're over in the ES300 (92-96) forum talking about A/C leaks, brake master cylinders, and how to get new master keys made for the ones we lost.

The 350 loaner car is truly unbelievable. It's so FAST and SMOOTH. And the pushstart button.

Ah, you guys know all that, and it's a great car. I hope they fix my 1993 ES300 soon, so I don't become accustomed to this level of car.

Thanks for listening

-Dave

I agree - I'd go with the dealer on this one. I just had my '93 in, for a ton of stuff, but also for "A/C not blowing cold air"

And they found that it was down to 0.5 pounds of freon. And the leak was at the charging connector gaskets (which took 2 days to get the replacements for). Still, pricey: $110 to fix the leak and diagnose and charge the system.

I'm stuck in the same position:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=49622

I checked with the local dealer, and he said, since I don't have ANY master keys, and just the valet key, I would need to not only buy a pair of master keys, but I would also need the onboard computer reprogrammed, so two master keys and the computer get a new code: $600+

That's why I want my dear older brother to find Dad's master key!

Thanks for the great posts I've read recently about programming a new key etc. However, I do not have ANY Master Keys. I just have the valet parking key.

Because - my BROTHER lost the MASTER key.

(This car was our Dad's car; my brother took the old 1987 Camry, and said I should take the Lexus - no problem)

But he can't find the Master key. He had it last, and he says he lost it somehow.

So my question is: (and this is really a CarTalk question) - what should I do to get my BROTHER to FIND the dang Master key?

Thanks

-Dave

My 2002 RX300 seems to have this problem: yesterday while starting it when it was warm, it would not stay at idle speed and died. I had to rev it to keep it started. Then it ran OK.

It happened again from cold start today, and happened again from warm start today - it can't remain at idle after start.

It's going to the dealer - still under CPO warranty.

Thanks for the info on this thread

-Dave

I haven't posted in over a year -

Took it in for the 50k maintenance: for about $230, they did the oil and oil filter, air cleaner, safety inspection, checked the works, and rotated the tires. Pricey. I passed on the cabin air filter, since this is so easy to do myself (and there's about a zillion posts here for those who doubt that).

In addition, the following was done (required) - and since I own a CPO (warranty 3years or up to 100k mi), the following was done for FREE:

Of course, I had to list these items out for the dealer - basically I said "can you fix the following":

1) replaced lighter assembly - it was not able to run a cell phone or other device (or heat the lighter).

2) replaced upper and lower rear boots on the struts - the rubber boots were cracked or torn

3) replaced the radio motor and antenna assembly - I explained to them how it was making a bad noise, and that didn't seem right.

The warranty items would have been about $850, according to the paperwork. Nice that it was warranty and free.

That's about it.

-Dave