LexDean

I need to update my post. I found that my belt HAD been changed properly at 100,000 miles. I will try and post pictures of what the belt looked like and found the mechanic from the original owner (not the Lexus Dealership) saved $1000 by taking it to a good local shop. This is why it did not show up in service records. I had bought kit to change belt and had started the tear down when I discovered the following which led me to research further the service on this beautiful one owner Lexus, which led me to find it had been changed. I was doing the work to change it, I pulled my Cam Inspection cover off the top left front side of the motor. Very large cover which allows a very good look at the timing belt. It still had good white print/ imprinting on the top of the belt (non grooved side), I have established that this white print (arrows, CR, LC, RC, plus TOYOTA and numbers) wears off completely at about 70,000 miles. So if I had white print, AND the belt looked good, could it still be the original belt after 153,000 miles? I concluded that no it could not be the original belt after that kind of mileage. Plus I could tell unmistakably that the crank bolt and thermostat housing HAD HAD A WRENCH ON THEM!!!!! All this evidence led me to call the original owners one more time and pull some more information out of them. So it appears I have saved myself quite a bit of work and money here.

One further note. The passenger side front door did not initialize on the first, second, third, or forth try! Panic! It initialized finally when I just rolled it down half way and waited for about 10 seconds, then rolled it up. Then I wen't over to my drivers door and it worked. The two rear doors worked on the first try.

One further note. The passenger side front door did not initialize on the first, second, third, or forth try! Panic! It initialized finally when I just rolled it down half way and waited for about 10 seconds, then rolled it up. Then I wen't over to my drivers door and it worked. The two rear doors worked on the first try.

This worked for me on my 2006 GS430, thank you. I disconnected the battery for 2 days to change timing belt. Had this problem when completed. This simple technique fixed my problem. Thank you so much for your post. Without this I would have been searching for fuses. Can't believe the fix was this simple.

This worked for me after disconnecting battery for 2 days to change timing belt. I thought I had fried something during this work. Instead this thread to the rescue! Thank you for this post/ thread. 2006 GX430 Owner

I would like to know if anyone has had good success with non ZR rated tires also. It is tempting when comparing the cost. ZR is rated to 153 mph, this is speed that the car is capable of. Guess it's good to be prepared.... and nice to know that you "could" if you wanted to.

Just got my 06 GS430 with 153,000 one owner miles. Timing Belt has never been changed. It is parked until Monday when I can get the service done along with the water pump and idlers, etc. Can anyone top this? Or is this a record (dubious albeit) on how long a timing belt has lasted? Curious if anyone has gotten more miles than this on theirs.

Question for anyone who has done this procedure and had problem solved like I have, DO YOU STILL HAVE YOUR HEAT SHIELDS OFF, OR DID YOU REINSTALL?

Question for anyone who has done this procedure and had problem solved, DO YOU STILL HAVE YOUR HEAT SHIELDS OFF, OR DID YOU REINSTALL? Also, Problem still fixed. Simple and inexpensive repair.

None of the ZR 's have super long tread life and don't come with a mileage warranty. On my GS with 153 K, all that has been on it (except once) has been Michelin Pilots. The one time it had a different brand on it, the car handled noticeably in a down graded way. So I have spent the money for the Michelins because that is what it was designed for. If you get a different brand, post to let me know how you like them.

Continued from my previous post on the exhaust leak fix... Another yellow light that was on and now is cleared (so far) is the yellow check brakes light! So 5 codes in all are now clear. P0430, P020, CHECK VSC, Traction Control and the check brakes light! My christmas tree has gone dark!!!!!! I hope that I don't have to repost in a few days that they have come back on! So far, so good.

OK this post is for posterity. I just saved at least $3000.00 today I believe. As of now I no longer have the CEL error codes, and no longer have CHECK VSC flashing, nor do I any longer have the Traction Control yellow light lit. So that's 4 error codes that were cleared by this simple and inexpensive repair. I have driven for 2 hours today and no return of any of the above error codes all related to the Catalytic Converters and O2 sensors. I don't know if this is a permanent fix like CuriousB experienced (But as of today a real change in my vehicle status has occured) as previously all lights would reappear within about 30 minutes. REVIEW OF SYMPTOMS: I had an exhaust leak on both sides of the Y Pipe just behind the O2 Sensors that I could hear from underneath the vehicle along with all the CEL's listed above (4 in all including P0420 and P0430). SOLUTION: Took vehicle (GS 430 2006) to local muffler pipe this morning (September 2014) They put it up on the rack and cut the two spots that were leaking out and welded in new pipe. Total time for repair 45 minutes. Estimate was $80 when I made appointment. When they were done they said that it was less work than they thought and FINAL BILL FOR REPAIR WAS ONLY $50.00!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! EXHAUST LEAK FIXED AND SO FAR NO CEL'S!!!!!! This was for a repair that the dealership would cost $3500 for just the parts to replace all cats and o2 sensors, pipes etc.!!!! Thanks to CuriousB for leading the way for me on this! I owe you one. I will repost in a few days or weeks with an update. One final question for CuriousB, DO YOU STILL HAVE HEAT SHIELDS OFF? MINE ARE OFF AND AM UNSURE IF I WILL REINSTALL THEM. I WON'T IF IT IS NOT NECESSARY. THANKS!

Thank you for the quick response to my comment, especially since you were the main contributor to this thread. I know your information has saved may people thousands of dollars. I am hoping that I will be one of them. This morning I removed the stainless heat shields on both sides of the Y pipe and exposed the leaks, just EXACTLY like the pictures from earlier in this thread. I didn't even mess with trying to get those rusty bolts out of those rusty clamps. I just grabbed the bolts with a big pair of electricians plyers and bent the bolt mountings back and forth, back and forth about 20 times and the clamps snapped right off. About a 5 minute job. I knew I wouldn't used those clamps again so I didn't waste my time on them. After I got the shields off and the old insulation around them, I called my local muffler shop (as you have just suggested) and asked if he could repair it, and he said what kind of vehicle is it on? When I told him a 2006 LEXUS GS 430, he was familiar that this was a common problem with them and asked me " why don't you just let me cut out the 2 bad sections and then let me weld in new pipe, and I don't even have to take the pipes off the vehicle." I asked him how much that would cost and he said $40 per side!!! OK, I agreed before he had a chance to think about it and raise the price. I am taking it to him tomorrow morning 9/30/2014 at 10:00 am and should have it back by lunchtime. So AT THE LEAST by this time tommorrow, I will no longer have an exhaust leak and if I'm fortunate, I will have spent a grand total of $80, and I will be minus an annoying CEL on the dash. I will post in a few days (allow the codes to hopefully clear) and let you know.

I just bought my 2006 GS 430. Beautiful car. it has the error codes noted in this post and an audible exhaust leak under the drivers seat area... Dealer says new cats needed, he would be happy to do this for $3500.00!! this thread will hopefully have just saved me a ton of money! I will update once I get repair done. Thank you to everyone for sharing your successes.