nc211

yeah, 95 + are the same way as yours.

Update: I checked the links last night and the bolts are about to fall off! Apparently I did not tighten them enough and they have wiggled loose, big time loose! I'll post up the results later, getting it fixed today.

Gumart, your question is the same one I asked a year and a half ago, which led me to all the suspension replacements in my signature. I clearly went overboard as I'm sure not all of those parts were bad, but I just decided to hit the whole thing at once and be done with it....or so I thought. I posted up a thread yesterday about the stabalizer bar links going bad. I have a wierd symptom as well, even with all of those new parts. I too feel the bumps pretty badly, and I get a slight wandering when turning at slow speeds, like the car is pushing wide. Last night when I got home I put my hand on the back of the bolts on those links to check them.....The bolts are almost complete backed out, with maybe 1 mm of thread holding them on! The stabalizer bar is essentially barely effective. There is about a 3/4 inch gap of space between the actuall bar and the rubber housing of the link. This is my fault, I now remember not tightening down those bolts. Long story short, check those bolts too and make sure that component is tight at 70lb of torque. I'm heading to the shop today to have them cranked down and I'll post up my results later.

I had the clunk and banging too and replaced the strut rods first. That did not fix it for me. Mine was the lower control arm. After replacing I inspected the old part, and it was cracked, torn up and rotten.

I agree! Man, people like that just get under my skin. I think I would just lose it if someone tried to pull that scam on me.

Damn, now that sucks. I would tell him you're calling the better busines bureu and reporting him. How in the hell does a heat sensor have anything....and I mean ANYTHING to do with your idle speed? You got ripped off. I'm betting he either tweeked up your throttle cable or screwed with the tps. He'll take your $140 and turn the setting back down to normal. I'm serious man, I would call him, ask him a BILLION questions about that heat sensor "part number, location, effect it has on your idle, where in the chain of events in the car's operation it is in, etc...." just bug the snot out of him, and hit him with a very stern "hawkeye". That is just crap man...pure, straight across the board, stinkin' like Arkansas road kill in August...CRAP!

Tell him to give you the part number and post it up here. I'll hunt it down and tell you exactly what he's wanting you to purchase, and how much it really costs.

Dude, sweeeet!!! I'll check it out tonight! The fiance' is going home for the night, so I get to have a few brews and tinker with the car....nag-free!

Ok, well here is my question: I read that article, and I will or will not argue the "warped" debate. To me, warped seems like a logical way to describe the problem. Anyone who has driven in the winter months, heated up the brakes pretty badly and then hit a slush puddle of icy cold water knows what that can do. But, according to that article, by me pulling into my driveway while applying my brakes to slow down "effectively heating them up" and then instantly using my e'brake to keep my car on the hill, will not allow the surface to cool back down. This should create the brake pad imprint. But my rotors don't have that imprint. However, picture 3 in that article seems to be the best way to describe my brakes. So, is using the e-brake a bad thing? My house is on a steep hill, and there is no way my tranny will hold the car on the hill all the time.

Ed, check out page 43 of this attachment as well. Might help.

9.pdf

Ed, this is the best I could find in my materials. It gives the diagram of things. I'm thinking maybe check the "Pipe Support Bracket" at the bottom left of the diagram on page one. Maybe it's loose and the pipes are rattling around?

10.pdf

Grand, no I have not heard of this! Please explain! That sounds really cool!! I like hidden menus!

Gumart, it is not beyond your scope at all to inspect the parts yourself! I think the best place to start is post the problems you're having. I have found, as I'm sure you know, this site is far better at pin-pointing problems than a dealership. I agree with Sha 110%! I can't make it out of the dealership for under $135, no matter what. When I bought mine at 84k miles back in May, 04' they said it would be CPO if it weren't for the age. What a bunch of B.S! $3,500 later, now she's worthy of CPO status.

Are you hearing clunks, clicks, squeeks? Rough ride? Wandering, that sort of stuff?

Thanks guys!

I think I'm just going to stick with oem brakes from now on, or at least try too "wallet plays main factor". The slotted rotors looks cool, and I'm sure they're awesome rotors, but for me, I just don't think I need them.

I put on aftermarket pads last july on the front, I was in a time pinch and had to go with what I could get that day. They will be coming off next month and replaced with oem pads and rotors all around. I'm not straying from oem anymore. They are semi-metallic like oem, but my wheels are BLACK from dust, they squeeeeeel, click, hiss and bounce around in the caliper. They just plain suck!

Ed, I'll go through my manual and see if I can find the proceedures for ya'.

Guys, as some of you know, I'm dealing with this strange wobble in my car. I've been aligned, balanced, rotated, turned, dialed in, run out, and all this mess. So last night I was retracing my steps from my front end suspension work I did a few months ago while reading through the manual. I came across a part that I remember gave me some trouble. It was the stabalizer bar link connector. I read in the manual that it calls for 70lbs of torque on the bolts. I rememeber these were loose, and didn't seem to want to tighten. The problem chart indicated "pitching and swaying", which is pretty much my problem. When I get any wind whatsoever, the car's tracking pitches and sways. I don't think it's the rack, since I don't have any free play in my steering. It could be the tires, that was the #1 pick in the manual, but they look fine. My question is this: What are the "real world" symptoms of your stabalizer bar links going bad or loose? Here is a picture of the part I'm talking about. It is #4 in the picture.

Thanks guys!

do a search under my name, you'll see a thread about this exact same question from a few weeks ago.

Very true. I would think there would be one at the automotive stores as well. I would not spend a lot of money on one in my personal opinion, as it will probably break again, and again. Especially if you live where it dips below freezing. I've burned up two in other cars due to ice locking the thing down, or when it is up, gets wet, freezes, turn the car off and it want to retrack but can't...burns it up.

Oh, and maybe one or two accidential trips through the car wash back in the day. Hey, it's Marley, man....it's marley.

Just curious by your tag name, and first name. Did you go to KU back in the 90's by chance? Murs?

Sorry man, I haven't a clue on your electical problem.

Question: And this might be the dumb one of the week. Can slotted and drilled rotors be turned? Thinking of buying some, but want to make sure you can service them later on.

Thanks all!

Man, you got me? I salute you for bravery to take on that chore. I'd send SK an email and ask him to chime in. I bet one of the guys at JP knows for sure.

The pcv valve is the black hose connection in the first picture, right about the "32" number lettering on the valve cover.

"Tampa isn’t the best place to be in during the summer."

Hahaha, you got that right! I was just down there over the 4th of July visiting friends, and I cooked my next generation(s) every time I stepped outside! It's awfully bright down there too "could have been the hangover though". Strange to say, I know. But I noticed how much brighter the sun is down there. Kickas* football stadium and a beautiful downtown. I bet that super-speedway they're building up in the air will be sweet when it's done! Ever gone up to Crystal River to swim with the Manatees? It's an awsome trip! Nice town in general, just too hot in the summer for me.

Well, if you're smelling something, then I would follow West's lead, as I'm stumped. I'll try that recirc trick to prevent the haze buildup. I noticed the other day that something was sticking out of my center vent. I pulled it out, and it turned out to be some sort of foam type insulation! It was about a mm wide, and an inch long. Gee, can't wait to see where that came from! :cries:

That sucks man Sorry to hear that happened. World is full of checks n' balances...aka....good guys and bad guys. But don't sweat it, karma is a som'b*tch and levels the playing field. He'll get his in due time. Anywho, it looks like you need to figure out if you've got the green tint or the grey tint. From the online guys, it looks like green "right side" msrp is $406 with discount at $325. The grey "right side" is $483 msrp with discount at $386. I think the big question is the tint color you've got. And I have no idea how to figure that out.

west, i'm not sure if he's smelling it though? DeeJay, are you smelling anything? Question: Do you have a slight haze of buildup on the inside of the widows? I hear that is a sign of freon leaking into the cabin. But, I get that problem as well, so does my girl's honda civic "2 years old" and neither one of our cars has freon leaks. I think if it is a massive buildup of haze, and it came on quickly, then I think it might be freon. But, my 2 cents hasn't been cashed in yet on the a/c stuff on these cars. I'm still stuck underneath the thing! Hahaha Slowing working my way into the engine compartment.

What kind of noise? Squeeks, creeks, or moans and groans? Under what conditions...over bumps and dips in the road, or just in general? Is it cool outside when you start it up...say 50-60ish?