melhadri

Highlighted within the red is the tubes I am referring to.

*** Correction *** I opened the hood, not the trunk. LOL.

I have the same problem except my paint is now starting to chip. Parallel parking has been my issue. Anyone have an idea of how much a body shop would charge for repair of minor chips? Anyone have thoughts on front bumper covers?

IT Consultant for a pharma company.

Friend's Perspective: "Well it sounds like the EGR valve, & it sounds like it is passing exhaust all the time & running WAY too hot & is going to fry something if you don't tend to it. I still think, because of the codes you posted earlier, maybe it's the EGR control, rather than the EGR itself, thats the root cause of the problem. If the control is defective & constantly passing vacuum to the EGR valve, it'll remain open & constantly passing hot exhaust gasses back into the intake manafold, when it shouldn't be. It'll also run EXTRA hot like this."

I really hate to continue with this specific post however, the stalling has reappeared. After hitting a pot hole and slowing down b/c of a stop sign....STALL STALL STALL. Discovered: * I opened the trunk and looked for the unusual. I noticed a pipe/tube located directly in the central lower front part of the car. Since, I am unfamiliar with the name of the part I will describe its attributes. It is attached vertically to 3 splitting pipes which lie above it. These 3 pipes are connected horizontally to some engine component. The main point is this: after driving the car for 30 minutes, the pipes were glowing RED, almost like a lava color. I will check today but I have a strong believe that it only glows red when it stalls. All advice and suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks.

Good Idea. I would be interested in seeing the results subsequent to completion. Today, I tried the 94 grade from Sunoco. Which gas station do you use?

I understand. I believe I have a working master key. My key has all functionalities which leads me to the conclusion that it is a master key. However, the computer rejected the programming of a new master key that I had ordered at the dealership. the ECU has rejected the request multiple times.

The dealer attempted to program the new cut 'master key' as a valet key but failed. I am going to take it to another Lexus dealer. If that fails, then I am going with a new ECU. My one and only key that works has a black head and is able to open the trunk, glove box and start the engine. This should be a master key right? For some reason the tool is reading it as a valet key and since its a valet key, the dealer is unable to program a new key.

I called Lexus Customer Satisfaction. Discovered that Lexus has an Immobilizer Replacement Program. They replace the ECU unit for free. All I am accountable for is the purchase of the new key and labor of installing the ECU ~ totaling $150. Not bad considering the ECU unit retails for over $1k. Key Note: * Your car does NOT have to be under warranty. * They will provide only one ECU replacement per vehicle. (They Ask for VIN) * You may take your car to any Lexus Dealer. If any of you are interested contact Lexus Corporate: 800 255 3987, Customer Satisfaction. FYI- Be courteous and polite with the Lexus representative.

Most of the time: 89 Plus Recently (within past month): 93 Premium I am going to stick with 93 for a while. What grade of gas do you recommend?

I am experiencing a similiar issue. I have 1998 ES300 and only one key. The key has a black Lexus head. Does this indicate that the key is a 'master key'. The key is able to open the trunk, glove box, doors and start the car. However, when I went to the Lexus dealership to make a copy of the key they had trouble programming the new key. They could not program it to a master or valet. So now I have an additional key that can do all but start the car. I truely believe the key I have is a master key but how do I find out for certain????

I was having difficulties finding someone with a motorvac machine around my area. The mechanic said that he hooked my car up to a fuel injector machine which supposively cleans the carbon throughout most/all of the emissions components. The car did not stall subsequent to the work performed. I noticed the rough idling has disappeared however the stalling may still exist which is why I have to wait a few weeks before feeling comfortable. I will obtain the specs of the fuel injector machine. I hear 'motorvac' does wonders.

Update: 1. Mechanic cleaned and inspected the IACV & EGR valve. ($45) 2. Fuel injector service. ($100) Do I still need a motorvac or is the fuel injector service good enough? Thanks for all the help and advice. The car feels much more powerful however I will give it a couple wks before assessing improvments.

I have been under the impression that Lexus and Toyota parts are, for the most part, considered interchangeable. Considering the fact that Toyota Service is cheaper than Lexus Service, would there be a loss of value if I took my Lexus to Toyota for servicing? All opinions are greatly appreciated.

My front right turn signal flashes extremely fast. However, after knocking against the headlight area with my hand, the turn signal flashes with normal speed. Is the bulb loose or dirty?

FYI Check engine light intiated during stalling for the first time. I retrieved two codes: 1. PO402: EGR Flow Excessive 2. P1411: Manfacurer Contrl. Auxiliary Emission Controls

I am under the impression that cleaning these components is a simple task. Does anyone have documentation that includes instructions on locating and cleaning the IACV and EGR Valves? Thanks for the help.

From my understanding, the EGR valve is the main emissions component in the exhaust gas system. What attempts have you made to resolve the stalling? I am going to take the valued help and advice from these guys above; "clean your iacv egr and throttle body." However, a couple dealers emphasized: "cleaning the EGR valve will not be 100% successful b/c the clean-up procedure doesn't navigate far enough within the emissions components...the EGR valve needs replacement...a malfunction in the EGR valve will not initiate a check engine light b/c its mechanical. New EGR valve and labor: ~$300 RIDICOULOUS...such a waste of money!

Dealer quotes: 1. Clean EGR valve--Dealer states "Cannot clean EGR valve, only replace." 2. Clean IACV--"$120-$160" Would it be of any concern to have another service unit (ex: Valvoline, Pep Boys...) conduct these services? Personally, it seems like a scam to pay over $100 for cleaning these valves or is it worth it?

I agree with what was suggested above. You might also want to take a look at this link: http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/Mainten...ice.service.2.*

HELP! I have a 98' Lexus ES300 w/ 80k miles. The car sporadically (once a week) stalls at idle (stop at traffic light) after driving highway RPM's however the car doesnt shut off. Key Observations: 1. My check engine light hasnt been initiated. 2. The acceleration and performance has degraded. Engine runs rough. 3. During stalling, the headlights dim then brighten dim then brighten... 4. During stalling, I smell a bad odor...possibly bad gas...something from the exhaust. 5. Stalling creates noise such as: pushing gas pedal then releasing gas pedal pushing the gas pedal then releasing the gas pedal... 6. If I turn the car off and wait for 15+ minutes, the car will start without any problems or stalling. 7. If I turn the car off and wait between 1-3 minutes, the car struggles to start and sometimes cuts off. 8. Switching gears while stalling didnt make a difference. 9. Car has stalled in rainy warm and rainy cold conditions. Also in dry warm and dry cold conditions. Interestingly, the majority of the stalling occurs subsequent to washing the car or rainy days. 10. Car has stalled with high, moderate and low levels of gas. 11. The stalling mostly occurs in the evenings, after sitting for 4 or more hours. 12. Drive between 65-80 mph on highway. Troubleshooting Attempts: 1. Applied Fuel Injector Cleaner and Complete Fuel Injector Cleaner (Valvoline) 2. New Air Filter 3. Throttle Body Clean-Up (after this service the stalling stopped for about a month) 4. Toyota Dealer removed EGR valve for a week or so, to see if the problem still occured. * Car didnt stall at all during this period. Lexus Dealer reconnected the EGR valve and car stalled that same evening. (Dealer washed car also) 5. I am up to date with all maint. except for a tune up. (Uncertain if previous owner tuned the car up at 60k miles) 6. Asked Dealer if fuel filter needed replaced and they stated "Lexus/Toyota filters are Life-time filters...no need to replace them." ????? 7. Changed gas stations. (now using BP and Shell) Considering: 1. Clean EGR valve 2. Clean Idle Air Control Valve 3. Tune-Up 4. Replace Fuel Filter 5. Inspect Ignition Coil As you can see I am reluctant on replacing emissions components b/c the cost clearly outweights the benefits; unless I am 85-100% certain that it will solve the problem. Any suggestions? Your help will be greatly appreciated.