Gumart1

Threadcutter - What started the problem with this caliper was simply that the bleeder screw broke right off when I opened it - didn't even use that much pressure. I had no problem with the first 3 brakes. There is another LS member on this forum that recently had exactly the same thing happen. So if I were to do it again I would use a lubricant to help loosen it first. But I truly did not force it. I really didn't feel like drilling out the bad screw and retapping and I tried all other methods to remove it. For $40, I bought a rebuilt caliper with a lifetime warranty - it is a dual piston as my LS was made after July of 1990. This morning I removed the bleeder screw entirely and pumped the brake (knowing I would have air - I already had air anyway), and the fluid came out really quickly. So I knew the the lines were good. As it turned out I had to open the bleeder screw almost 2 full revolutions to get a good flow. This is what confused me last night and was the cause of the poor flow - all the others opened with a quarter turn. I was able to close it and so far everything seems fine. I haven't tested it yet. I didn't have any bad symptoms before the flush, so I believe I am good to go. Some people have recommended replacing both calipers in the front. But I never had a problem with the caliper that I replaced - I suppose I will drive it and see if there is any remaining issue. Your tip about the rubber cap is excellent! I saw it first hand tonight as I noticed that the fluid retracted slightly even after I closed the valve. When the cap was put back, after pumping again, there was no fluid movement. So apparently it is not just to keep dirt and debris out of the lines.

Part II - I removed the remnant of the old washer, cleaned everything thoroughly and installed the new crush washers and all is good, no leaks. However, I just tried bleeding this last brake and the fluid just doesn't want to flow! I understand that the fluid has to find it's way through the caliper first, but after many attempts, all I get is about an inch of fluid that appears at the clear tube but doesn't push through. The brake pedal feels like a rock and there isn't much movement. One thing I want to add is that when I flushed the first three brake lines, the traditional method of pumping and holding the brake pedal down on the last pump while opening the bleeder screw gave me almost nothing. What worked for me was having my helper be on the downstroke as I opened the valve and then continue to pump. Enough fluid was working it's way down the tube to prevent any air going back. Does this mean air is trapped somewhere in each line? I only flushed in the first place as preventative maintenance. Braking beforehand was strong and smooth. One thing is for sure, my wife's (helper) getting tired of helping and her foot is getting strong enough to kick me in the %^@!

Ha ha ha ha - you guys are great - Thanks Fortunately this thread didn't go on too long and I've been unfortunate to have had my time wasted by another Craigslist phony. I usually can screen the hundreds of garbage ads but the odd thing was that I actually spoke to the guy for 15 minutes and he seemed quite real about the car. If he was, my guess is that throughout the day he got bombarded with calls and realized that he possibly underpriced it? In any case, he canceled his ad - luckily I saved his phone number - so I called and when he answered he quickly said he was in a meeting and asked that I call back in 10 minutes. Of course 10 minutes later, and now 3 hours later, no response. What an *&%(%^ ! Honestly, if people were just up front, I would not have a problem. But waste my time like this and it's another story. Marty's Lesson learned: Waste all of your time on the LOC, not Craiglist :D

I've noticed that quite a few members here have owned or currently own a Vette. I did have an '87 at one time that was a lot of fun to drive in the summers (Chicago). I've always admired the 97+ for their performance but didn't want to spend the money as I wasn't interested in the depreciation. This morning a guy put an ad on Craigslist and he lives less than 2 miles from my house. It's a 1999 Red Corvette with black leather, 6 speed, 44,000 miles. He bought it with 7k miles on it. Adult owner, garaged, no accidents or paintwork, all stock except for 2000 chrome wheels. New Goodyear run flats. Heads up display also. It has some paint chips on the front but otherwise clean according to the owner. I'm going to see it later today. The one thing I am not sure on is if it is a removeable hardtop or not. That was a great plus on my '87, almost made it feel like a convertible. The price: $16,000 firm. I searched Autotrader and couldn't find a deal even close to this. Seems crazy to me that he would garage it this winter and then sell it now for that price? I love the idea of driving and enjoying it for a year or two, and selling it for nearly the same price. I don't see it depreciating too quickly because the older models are holding at a slightly lower level. I've heard that this generation can have electrical problems? The owner said he replaced the alternator but that was it. Anything else I should look out for besides typical inspections checks? Just wanted to hear advice and opinions from anyone. Thanks!

Sil-Glyde is a recommended applicant for the polyurethane bushings. I've greased my bushings as a temporary fix but I think the real question is how long with these bushings stay squeek-free without having to relube. Some owners have ended up re-installing their rubber bushings after the noise was unbearable. Others have suggested installing grease fittings which seems like a logical solution. I talked to a retailer of Daizen Bushings and he said that most of the squeeks are coming from do-it-yourselfers who have improperly lubed or installed the bushings incorrectly in the first place. I can't understand how someone could mess up the job? If you are using the correct part and being extremely generous with the grease? Since I prefer the softer OEM ride I am going to stick with rubber except for the upper control arms - or maybe I'll wait it out until someone finally sells them in rubber! Geez, they make them for the lowers, is it simply about profit to make us buy the whole assembly?

Thank you both for your suggestions. Finally found the problem today. One of the old original crush washers had worn down to almost nothing and had "melded" onto the bolt. I guess they take a beating just like any part with 250k miles. I didn't notice it as it was almost imperceptible to the eye, but the worn washer surface was not level, therefore causing the leak with the new washer sitting against an old washer. I haven't reassembled it but I'm sure this was the problem. :)

You definitely turned the nut counter-clockwise to loosen it. It's easy to get confused when you are lying down. I always imagine if I sat upright and also turned the car upright 90 degrees so the undercarriage is in front of me. Now you are looking at that solenoid nut and turning it left (counter). If you placed the wrench at the 3pm position you would turn it towards midnight. What you did specifically was start at about 9pm and turn it towards 6pm - OK I'm confusing myself now! But hopefully you get the idea. The inline filter I installed was an A1 Cardone Premium Magnetic Inline Filter. I believe the actual filter said Magneflow on it. It is $17.12 plus shipping at Rockauto.com. Sorry I didn't take pics during the install but it took no more than 10 minues to add before replacing my return hose to the pump. It comes with 2 new clamps - it was a tight fit but it worked. I intend to replace it yearly with every flush but it does have a bypass on it in case it gets clogged.

Great Pics! Very easy to see - Great job too - I wonder why yours was so easy to remove? If someone had cleaned it before or just that you have a newer LS than us Gen I's or your climate or luck of the draw? I cleaned exactly the same part, but I asked a while back if the solenoid disassembled even more to reveal more screen. Not sure if I found the answer. But my steering did improve dramatically. You should probably add that return line filter to catch any particles that pass through the solenoid screen. There's almost nothing left to do, right?! ;)

I'm replacing the front driver's caliper and I cannot stop the leak. The leak is a fast drip that is originating from the bolt that attaches the brake hose to the caliper. I did not have any leaks before. I used two brand new copper crush washers that were included with the caliper on each side of the bolt and torqued them to the correct 22 ft. lbs. I had a slow drip and when I tried bleeding the brake it really started leaking fast. Just for kicks I tighten the bolt even more but it didn't help. Do I just have bad crush washers or is there another reason? Do the tiny holes in the bolt that allow fluid through need to be aligned with the hole at the end of the brake line (hard to explain without seeing)? If so, every time I thread the bolt it will not end up in an aligned position. Second question: I just flushed the fluid from the other three brakes before I found that this caliper needed replacing. Because of the leak, my master cylinder dropped below the minimum line, but did not empty completely. Do I have to bleed all the brakes and the master cylinder too, or just the one I am working on?

Mikeb - Thanks for the great link! I found 35 places within a 10 mile radius of my house. 2 of them are less than 2 miles away. I also noticed that 2 of my Lexus Dealers have the Hunter as well. Have you used any of the local shops? I am in the Chicago suburbs and I see you are nearby. Thanks

If you are correct Aussie then I am very sorry for the confusion. But I have a written price quote from Darrell at Sewell for my 91 for part#0051. If it's for a 95+, then they have quoted wrong. Oddly, Carey at Park Place did confirm with me over the phone that 0051 is just the bushing, but the correct one, and the part you are listing is the bushing already in it's mount. So, two major Lexus Dealers have possibly given me the wrong info and I apologize - I will confirm this of course. Unbelievable if they make the bushing but still won't sell it separately!

So part#4867440051 is a strut bar cushion for a 90-92 only? One thing I'd like to clarify is that for the front suspension, we have strut bars and strut bar cushions. In the rear, they are called strut rods, and strut rod bushings. This is how the service manual describes them. According to Sewell, part#4867440051 is the correct strut bar cushion for a 1991 LS. Did they change that then with all the other changes for '93?

$508.38 each for OEM with free shipping from newlexusparts.com I'd also e-mail Sewell for a price. Just curious, are they damaged? Because you can also replace just the bushings on your lower control arms for a fraction of the cost.

Threadcutter - Thanks for clarifying - Yes, it seems that most people are saying the same thing about the GR-2's, and unless someone prefers a stiffer ride, it's best to stick with the OEM struts, also made by KYB. I think some people have assumed that the GR-2's are the exact OEM part, and they are not. Perhaps you have sharper handling and cornering with the tighter replacements? I prefer the softer ride like you. Hopefully you didn't pay too much for your replacements, as I found prices from places like Irontoad for less than $60 per strut! Gum: Sailor - To answer your original question, I would recommend replacing your shocks with the OEM toyota parts, made by KYB for your LS. I believe you are suggesting that he go with OEM "standard ride" shocks. A month and a half ago, I posted that I had purchased a set of KYB GR-2's for my '95. Someone replied back that they thought I would find them to be too "stiff". Well, with some time under my belt, I now agree. If I had it to do over again, I would purchase just the "standard" (not high performance) OEM shocks. The GR-2's aren't bad, but I really would prefer the "softer" ride that the standard shocks have. Also, the Gr-2's are "breaking in" & becoming a bit softer with time (Or, am I just getting used to the firmer ride?).............

It seems from my what others have said that Toyota Ignition Wires last a long, long time. My old '92LS had the original wires dated 1992 and when I tested them with my Ohmeter they all were within spec (less than 25 ohms resistance). I am getting ready to change the plugs on my '91 and wondering if I should change the wires as well (approx. $110). My existing wires are dated 1998 and have probably 70,000 miles on them. I'm confident they will be within limits. The car is running smoothly. Can wires be within spec and still have a negative effect on the performance? Can they damage other components before giving me symptoms that they are going bad? I suppose it may just be personal opinion, just as some people are changing their O2 sensors as maintenance while others will test them first. Lexus says to change the plugs every 60k, but they do not specify an interval for changing the wires. If I end up changing the wires I will add the caps and rotors as well.

Look at the amazing prices at newlexusparts! Here is the low low price I found for an air filter for my 1991 LS400: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...991&catalogid=1 Grab 'em while they last!

Sailor - To answer your original question, I would recommend replacing your shocks with the OEM toyota parts, made by KYB for your LS. It seems to provide the most cushion compared to what is available in aftermarket and is quite reasonable from several online Lexus Dealers like Park Place Lexus and Sewell. Regarding your UCA bushings, Daizen may be a good route because you cannot purchase just the OEM bushings - but I have heard of many complaints that the polyurethane bushings will squeek after a while. The question is did these owners lube them correctly and generously before installation with the supplied lubricant or a polyurethane grease like Sil-Glyde. Also poly bushings will "firm" up the ride over rubber bushings. Blessed - I wouldn't waste your time with new member Lexus Zaphod's E-Bay shocks (plus he should read the rules about selling on the forum and links to outside sources). If one of his struts failed then the rest cannot be far behind. If you are paying someone labor to install them it is not something you want to do over again soon. If you feel committed to keeping your air ride, you can buy rebuilt air struts with a lifetime warranty from Arnott.com for $450 each. I don't know how many miles are on your '91, but my '91 has over 250k miles and I opted to convert my struts with Arnott's conversion kit. For just over $600 for all 4 struts it was a no-brainer. Arnott claims that these struts were designed with a damping force similar to the air shocks. I have yet to confirm this because many of my other suspension components need replacing. The issue of keeping your air ride vs. conversion has been visited many times. It really comes down how much you personally value that option on your car. If possible, drive a few LS's with both options and decide for yourself. Financially, keeping the air ride is a losing game - there are height control sensors, actuators, air tubes, compressor, etc. But then again you already won the game because you probably paid $6,000 for a $40,000 vehicle! Zoso was right-on in recommending that you look at your lower ball joints. I found on my LS that the stabilizer bar bushings ($10 each) and strut bar cushions were dried and cracking. I'll be changing these soon along with OEM lower control arm bushings (less than $40 each) and possibly Daizen UCA bushings. I converted my shocks and just replaced my lower ball joints and the ride is 90% better already. You can find more opinions by searching; I've just repeated what has been discussed many times already. Good luck.

Answers at last! After searching the parts with Carey at Park Place, he found that part # 0051 is just the bushing - however the old bushing would probably need to be pressed out (or burned out if possible like Lexls did with the upper arms). You can get the bushing alone for $35.56 each with free shipping. Or, part#0030 includes the bushing already in it's mounting bracket. Price is $106.90 each. This is independent of the strut rod - the mounting bracket attaches to the rod. I'll probably take it apart and see if I can press it out and save $140. Carey is a great guy - and he did verify that Park Place (newlexusparts.com) uses ONLY OEM Lexus parts, nothing is aftermarket. Also even if the part number is not listed on the website they still can get it.

Thanks Blake! I think you may have mentioned this to me before, guess I've spent too much time under the car sniffing silcone spray Do you happen to know the part# you found for the bushings on ParkPlace's website? I can't seem to find it there. By the way just to mention as an update - I just changed out my lower ball joints and stabilizer bar bushings and it made a huge difference in steering and cornering, and reduced my suspension clunk immensely - but not 100%. I've also partially converted (front only, rears are next) my air suspension to standard struts from Arnott Industries and I have no more height issues. All my bushings are severely cracked so I will be changing them out next. If anyone has any questions regarding the conversion or anything related please don't hesitate to ask.

Robert - Thanks for the quick answer - I thought you might know about any and all front end parts :D. But I think both places only sell OEM parts, Sewell and Park Place (Newlexusparts.com). The part#'s are even similar - perhaps one is for a different year LS? Perhaps one is for the OEM strut rod which includes the cushions? I just want to be sure there are only two along the whole bar at the location of the rods and nothing more.

I want to replace my severely cracked strut bar bushings (already did stabilizer bar bushings) and I'm confused about the correct part # for my '91. These are the bushings that can be seen where the strut rods and the strut bar connect. Sewell quoted me for "strut bar cushion", part #4867440051 about $35 each x2. That seemed about right. Park Place Lexus shows nothing for that part #, yet offers "strut bar cushion", part #4867450030, for $106.90. Are there more than two cushions along the strut bar and which is the correct part I am looking for? Thanks.

Branshew - I actually read "The Lexus Story" cover to cover, but of course have forgotten the exact timeframe. I would have to say 1987 for a running prototype?, although I know the development goes back much further. Wait! It's July 1985! I just checked - wow, talk about the relentless pursuit of perfection!

Thanks for the last few suggestions guys. I was already out the door to Sears and missed them. Great news! It's off! The Craftsman Bolt-Out Set did it, easily I might add. I used the tightest possible remover and had to hammer it lightly in place. Then using the proper sized socket "1" over the remover with my breaker bar. It loosened right up without much effort at all. The kit I got was an intermediate sized one for $29.95. It is Sears item#952166. It has 10 sizes up to 19mm. It is also available on Sears.com I believe. Thanks so much for referring me to it!

Thanks for the great suggestions. MadMax thanks for the link. The Sears Bolt-Out looked really good. Unfortunately the largest size they sell is for a 16mm and this bolt is 17mm. I may look for another manufacturer. It's really rounded, I can't see how anything will attach at this point :cries: If I have to cut it with a dremel, will I then have to use the extractor on the remaining thread? I'm really hoping to save this thing, I've never had to retap threads. I was wrong; they do have the size: http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Shop_Tools-Al...lay_~full_specs $50 ouch! Well, I saved hundreds of dollars by doing it myself, and now I have an excuse to get some more tools. These should be nice to have in the future. Unless there are any other suggestions, I'm off to give this a try.

I am replacing the lower ball joints on my 91LS and sure enough I have practically ruined one of the two bolts that hold the ball joint to the steering knuckle. They are supposed to be torqued to 83 ft. lbs. which isn't that hard but I guess 250k miles has added up to one stubborn bolt. Over the past 3 days, I have tried soaking it with Liquid Wrench 3x a day, using a breaker bar (by that time the threads on the bolt head had stripped, using channel locks, using a propane torch to attempt to heat the bolt, and finally using a chisel and hammer, all to no avail. I have a sledgehammer but the wife didn't trust me to help ;) There isn't much left of the bolt head, it is nearly smooth all around although the chisel can cut a groove with a bit of effort. I have never used a bolt remover but even if I did it would be difficult to manuever the drill underneath and drill perfectly straight up the bolt. Of course the other bolt came off like butter. Any other miraculous suggestions how to free this bolt??? Thanks!