lextechrob

Hopefully one of your no button keys is registered as a master. If not you will need to buy a used engine ecu with a matching MASTER key, then swap the programming over to your existing keys, and then register them as master's. Lexus previously had a policy ( probably still has) if you lost your masters, they would one time pay for the replacemt ecu under warranty ( regardless age/ miles or original ownership), you just gave the pay the $500 for the two key's. Maybee someone else knows a work around.

Labor should be 2.0 hours or less. Used unit is cheaper. If you can identify which part is the problem like the pump/ accumulator that can be bought separately new i think. car-parts.com is best place to look for used assembly- all of the electric boosters ( landcruiser, sc430, etc) are the same except for the reservoir

Try cleaning the throttle 1st, if that does not do it, just replace the throttle body assembly with a used one. Easy to change and pretty cheap. Common for worn throttle motor gears to trip a fault and take away the throttle.

You really have to check shop reviews and trust the guy. At that price it could be a bait and switch price- what are you going to do when he opens up your engine and then calls you back with the dreaded supplement ( the shop owns you at that point) or worse puts on the belt and coolant and ignores the failing pulleys or tensioner like the chain tire shops due or put on non factory supplier parts to only leave you three years from now with a poorly working heater mystery or leak under the timing cover from the high profit Chinese water pump. Proceed with caution.

Double check everything as there are setting marks on the cam and TDC marks on the cam gears. if those marks are mixed up, the engine will be ruined during cranking before it ever start (much worse then bent valves). turn engine over by hand clock wise when belt and lower cover/ crank pulley is on. should only have resistance of compression, no hard stop.

Not likely the imobilizer system- would just crank and not start. a single click is very likely the starter, however you must clean and check the positive battery cable connector where the large starter cable and smaller fuse box wire bolt together at the connector.

Always hard over the internet, but sounds like a weak ignition coil on bank1 (drivers side) usually. I have a seen three of them, first one drove me nuts. Load test the coil by pulling off the wire and watching the arc. it should be a very audible snap and blue 1/2 spark. compare left and rh. I use a spark tester tool you can get anywhere. Injectors which are fair game at this age and miles could cause a misfire but not likely a buck.

Good price- $889 at my shop- water pump, coolant, idler, tensioner, tbelt, serp belt and serp tensioner pulley bearing- all oe parts.