914lps

Thank you. But just "were" is that wire. How do I identfy it, and how do I get to it.

I am looking for an easy to do fix.

I do apreshate your help, but just "naming" a wire does litle to help.

If you have had your front cigarette lighter stop working, and have done a search of this forum, you know no one has found a fix past checking and replacing the 15 amp fuse located under the drivers side panel.

Well my front lighter went dead when a shop was working on the center console. They ended up telling me it was an issue with the wiring harness.

Well the easy thing would have been to give up and run a new power source and plug. But I wanted to fix it.

I replaced the 15 amp fuse. That got the rear lighter to work, but the front one was still dead.

I pulled the complete ashtray out of the car ( directions on LexLs site).

Using a volt meter and Ohm meter I started to trace and check all wires. I fount I had power at the connector from the harness to the ashtray assembly. I even had power down to the connector on the lighter [plug itself wire the +12volts connect to the lighter). Ground was also good. But the plug was still dead!

Well this made no sense to me. So I took the lighter socket plug apart. I cleaned all surfaces etc. But still no power when plugging into the socket. I had power on the back side connectors, but not on the inside of the plug!

I then started looking at the connectors on the back again. Well you have 3 connectors connecting the +12 volts to the lighter. Four if you count the ground wire.

The connector that connects the ashtray to the wiring harness has 4 wires on it. 2 are yellow. They go to the lights on the ashtray. One is black. That is the ground wire. Then you have a gray wire. That Gary wire feeds the 12+ volts to the lighter! If you look at it you will see it is a thin wire and I did not feel it was right for a 15 amp circuit.

Well follow that +12 volts to the lighter. That connects to a crimp fitting and it looks like that feeds the power to the plug. Surprise! It does not, it is part of another connector built into the plug. This connector is a piece of brass. Right across from where that wire connects, you will see a short black wire that connects to two brass crimp points. That is a fusible link!!!!!!!! I had to look at mine with a magnifying glass to see that it blew!. This black wire is crimped to the brass pieces that the +12 volts is crimped to. That short black wire is then crimped to another brass crimp point. It is this point the really connects to the center power point of the lighter!.

I used a small knife to open up the crimps and pulled the black wire out. I replaced it with a new wire and re-crimped both connection points. Bingo power was back to the front lighter.

If you carefully take the lighter apart by undoing the nut on the back and very carefully inspect the parts you will see the insulating washer the separates the +12 volts from the real connection point though the little black wire.

I'm guessing Lexus felt that the thin gray wire they used was to light for a 15 amp draw, so they fused the lighter with a link!

So you can fix it my way or try finding a new lighter to install

I give Lexus a big :chairshot: For this one!

It only took me 4 hours to figure out what the deal was on this.

I guess you missed this from the site :

"6 December, 2009

The diagrams are no longer available on this site."

I know of the site and have used it before. I did check it before I posted this request for information.

Register on http://www.toyodiy.com/ and you will be given access to the diagrams. You have to be logged on to see them. It sometimes takes a day or two for access to the diagrams to be granted.

Thanks for the information. I registered, validated the registration, and longed in as a registered user.

No diagrams showed. Hopefully in a day or two I will be able to get to see them...

914lps,

You can find detailed schematics/drawings and parts numbers at toyodiy.com. The site is back up and has a wealth of info for Lexus owners!

Good Luck

Fsuguy

(go 'Noles!)

I guess you missed this from the site :

"6 December, 2009

The diagrams are no longer available on this site."

I know of the site and have used it before. I did check it before I posted this request for information.

I need parts for my 91 LS400 and I'm sick of ordering parts online or by phone and having to send them back as they were bad to begin with.

So, I'm planning a parts hunting trip next time I go to Las Vegas and Los Angeles so I can pull the part and check it.

Anyone know some good recyclers that should have a nice selection of 91/92 LS400's?

Thank you.

I need a detailed parts diagram for a 91 LS400 showing all the molding and weather stippling for the windshield. I also need a detailed diagram for the rear passenger door window Mechanics. Showing all the inside parts and the parts that hold the glass to the mechanism.

Thank you.

I have to replace the factory AM / FM Tape on my car. It is a Pioneer unit. I have seen on the Internet adapter kits that let you plug an after market stereo into the factory wiring. But some sellers say the factory amps will not work. Others say no, all amps including subwoofer will work, and still others say amps will work, but not the factory sub-woofer.

So I'm confused :chairshot:

Anyone that has replaced the factory radio and got the factory amps, and subwoofer to work? If so please tell me how you did it.

I know it is not hard to pull the radio, and i have seen the adapter face plate kits. Both in single and double DIN.

I thank you for the help.

I went though this years ago. As I recall you can't get a replacement. It is like trying to get the solenoid. Look though my past posts. I did a major thing on PS, etc. I put an in-line filter into the return line going into the pump. Almost every screen on the valve gets a hole in it when cleaned. On of the suck of life facts. Autozone sells a thin round filter by Cardon??? Just ad a length of hose and slip it in. Then it is easiest to get to and clean. Helps to keep the dirt out of the pump and keeps you from having to clean the pump screen.

Did you check both fuse boxes? Most folks do not know there are two. One under the hood by the battery. One inside the door, by the driver's kick panel. A have had fuses look good and even check good, but be bad. I found this out by simply putting in new good ones. Sometime the fuse shows it is giving power but it is not giving the amps the devises need. It can sometimes help to just pull the fuses and put back them back

I did the same, but off Ebay because I don't have an account (I don't like anal rape). I emailed him and sent him two units (one from a parts car I had) and he gave me a discount on the repair of one and kept the other to rebuild and sell. If you have a good pull-it yard nearby it wouldn't hurt to grab one, they're cheap there, and send it along with yours (or send it and keep yours installed to continue using) then send the second one in when yours is done. Doing that is a bit cheaper than buying a rebuilt unit outright.

I live in a small town so no parts yards around for Lexus. How much do the control units go for from a parts car?

If it is easy to spot, then I wonder why it has not been fixed. Makes me wounder if they saw something they did not want to deal with....

Any idea on how to open up the door? I know how to get the window switch out of the door.

Thank you for the information.

On Ebay, I won the auction for one of these panels, which had already been repaired. The Seller does this often and is based in Houston, TX. I think it was $125 total, and when I paid, he shipped immediately. When his unit came, I swapped them out with my son and we placed our old one in the same box.

The Seller had included a pre-paid UPS or FedEx Shipping Label for him to get our old unit.

His panel was fine and works perfect. It looks fine too.

When he received our old unit, I think it took about 10 days before we received our core charge; $50 ???

I would do it again.

Thank you. I have seen his postings. He is one of the places I have on "my" list. His feedback is also good on Ebay. But good hearing about your dealings with him.

Have you noticed if it happens when only when the car is hot or cold on the inside. Like sitting in the hot sun, get in the car all is fine. Drive with the ac on, cool car down, then radio acts up?

If so it could be a conector or solder connection, or even a cracked circuit board. Sometimes before a part goes out it acts up do to expansion and contraction. It works when hot, but not cold, or the other way around.

On the 91 LS 400 there is an ashtray at the bottom of the center console just under the stereo. You push in on it and it opens by kind of sliding out. Then you just push it in to close it. Inside is the ashtray and lighter. Mine is some how jammed shut. I did not do it, so I do not know just what happened. I had the car worked on and I know they removed the complete ashtray assembly (with the battery still conected). It is now closed. When you push in on it to open it nothing happens. It does not even push in a small amount to then slide open. I have tried to pull it open with out really pulling hard on it. No luck. Also it looks like the right side of the ashtray is not as pushed in as the left side. The ashtray is definitely cooked at an angel if you look carefully. I'm talking about the ashtray not the complete trim part when I say it is cocked at an angle. How can get this open? I have no way to power my cell phone charger, etc... Also now the back lighter plug for the back seat has no power ...

Any help will be appreciated.

The shop that did it is usless.... :chairshot:

I had the rear window replaced on my 91 LS after the car was broken into. Now when it goes down, when it hits about the halfway point it makes a loud click or popping noise. Just one pop.

I have taken it into the shop. They say they fixed it by "adjusting it". They can't tell me what they adjusted. But when I get it back, it still does it.

Looks like I will have to fix it myself....

Anyone know anything about the back door windows?

My climate control unit has a cracked LCD screen or the window in front of it is cracked. The display on it comes and goes. Some times it works. Some times not. I need to find a good working replacement or a place to repair mine. Doing a search I found about 4 places that do repair on the units. Not sure who to go with. Who did you use to repair your unit or were did you get a working replacement unit?

If someone works on my car without disconnecting the Battery what can happen? I found out that the shop working on my climate control system ans Stereo has not been disconnecting the battery or pulling the fuses. What can happen if you pull these units in and out with the battery conected?

They also worked on the window motors

Go to this website;

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1991_LEXUS_LS400_UCF10L-AEPGKA_8401.6.html?hl=84930

check the part number you need and then (on the same site) change car to newer years and check those part numbers....if the part numbers are the same for lets say 91, 92, 93 and 94...then you know they are interchangable. Hope this helps.

Big Time! Thanks.

1990-1994.

Is that for the door switches on the inside of the front doors. The ones with the window and lock switches? Do you know if the Climate control units are the same?

I need to find replacements for both the front drivers and passenger switches. I have a gray 91 LS 400. Anyone know what years switches will be the same as the ones from 91?

Look at a car every day. Clean the windows. Wash it, and never notice how the windshield "fits".

I had my Windshield Replaced. I believe that the old windshield was the original. Looking at the "New" windshield, the fit and finish of the job looks wrong. Not the Windshield itself, but how the molding etc., fits around it.

On the top of the windshield just above the chrome strip, were the black molding is, it has cuts and gapes in it. Shop stated "it is due to dry-rot". On the weather stripping that goes between the front doors and the Black molding on the side of the windows the weather striping is loose, and not attached to the black molding. Looking between the black molding on the sides of the glass and the glass, there is a big gap, and I can see the shiny inside of the black metal molding. I think that is either on wrong, or there is supposed to be some rubber in there??? My insurance paid for the work. Can you take pictures of your windshield showing the details so I can see if mine looks the same? The more the better. Feel free to PM me. Thank you.

Did you throw a Mentos in there?

How hot was the day? Where do you live?

I Live In Arizona, but was on a road trip. I filled up in Yuma at about 5 pm I would say no more then 85 % outside. Everything was ok. No issues. I then headed towards San Diego. I stopped abound 125 ro 150 miles later. In that drive I went from around 800 feet to about 4,000 ft and back down to about 800 feet. Non stop. But remember I took the gas cap off to fill up, so pressure would and does equalize. Remember on the LS when you take the cap off you can hear the sound of the pressure equalizing. All LS'S do this all the time. I then filled up and that is when I had the issue. It was about 72 outside.

Has anyone ever heard of this?