ShawnOklahoma

I have an Interstate Battery that I replaced about a two months ago. Temps have been in the negatives here in the Chicago area, and haven't had any problems with starting. I will say that over the life of the car (purchased in July 2002), that I've gone through three batteries (OEM, Walmart brand, now Interstate). SC's are the worst in terms of parasitic draw. Lots of memebers point to leaving the headlight lever on "Auto," but I've noticed that the door panel lights have draw also when the car is off (like leaving the trunk open so the lights kill the battery). I've seen so many threads on dead batteries after a few days of sitting. I have not had a problem starting after even a week of sitting with this Interstate Battery. I can provide the number and CCA, and other details soon.

here's my build from a while back. Still running strong and love the Bluetooth integration for my Android phone, and the iphone cable with remote that allows me to play ipod/my gf's iphone and switch tracks easily. I'm so happy with this mod. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-430/691835-dvdnav-media-integration-naviks.html

Awesome write up! Congrats on taking the initiative and getting your hands dirty! Your wallet greatly thanks you. If you have any photos, I'm sure they would be helpful for other readers with similar or future problems.

Thanks Bill... Check out http://store.ijdmtoy.com/.

Try bending the bulb contact wires out so they make better contact with the bulb holder contacts. I had a problem with one of my bulbs, and this procedure fixed my problem.

Wow! Congrats on tracking down the problem! Way to just dive in and go for it! Hopefully it will be an easy and cheap fix.

The door scuff plate is not changeable. The light is a complete assembly and opening it will break some tabs. Although, I've seen a few people that have torn it apart and changed it but I'm not ready to do such a thing. You can however, purchase one from Japan that is Blue... no idea how to locate one though. Sorry.

Yes, I posted the list on the LED thread.

I noticed mine are also two different hues (before breaking the driver's side) and I am the only owner of my car.. never replaced. One was more blue while other is more brown. Now with the used mirror replacing the driver, same thing. I don't (at this time or with my previous mirror) have any "blotches" as described earlier so maybe they are just made with different shades or are part of the autodimming feature?

2002 Lexus SC430 Car Lightbulb Size Diagram Low Beam Headlight Bulb Size: HID-D4S Low Beam Headlamp Light Bulb Size: HID-D2S -High Beam Headlamp Light Bulb Size: 9005 or 9005 HID Upgrade Kit -Parking Light Bulb Size: 168 Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 992 (7440A) Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 7440 Tail Light Bulb Size: 7443 Stop Light Bulb Size: 7443 <>High Mount Stop Light Bulb Size: Assembly -Fog/Driving Light Bulb Size: H3 or H3 HID Upgrade Kit -License Plate Light Bulb Size: 194 -Back Up Light Bulb Size: 7440 -Front Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 168 -Rear Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 168 -Glove Box Light Bulb Size: 37 -Map Light Bulb Size: DE3175 -Dome Light Bulb Size: BA9 -Step/Courtesy Light Bulb Size: 194 or 74 -Trunk/Cargo Area Light Bulb Size: 194

It's a very special (and expensive) mirror. It contains fluid crystal that allows it to auto dim, and also has a heating element to allow defrost functionality. $500+, Ridiculous, I know. You can buy an aftermarket stick on mirror from Safelite for like $80, but it won't autodim. The defrost should still work with the Safelite stick on mirror, since the heat will still transfer through the mirrors. To go the Safelite route, you must have a mirror as a backing for the stick on replacement, though. That's why i recommended the ebay route to get the actual OEM mirror.

Part 87931 (RH) Mirror Only- $501.84 Much easier to buy a used mirror on ebay, and then just swap. That's what I did when I broke my driver's side mirror while adding my DIY Puddle lights. http://lexus.sewellparts.com/oem-catalog/8701874586-Electrical-SC430-2003.html

I'm sorry but I do not know much about the screen in the dash. I never attempted to change it or fiddle with the door but I have heard that many do experience problems with the track. It might be an easier fix that replacing the entire unit. Just to get the door back on the track. Less invasive. Secondly, it might be the "open/close" button or some short inside the A/C control unit. There should be some more diagnostics done before just hot swapping the screens. You can also search that site for more threads on the GPS Nav Screen. Lots of info, too much to post here. 1. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-430/465465-radio-door-cover-stuck.html (Posts 18-22, 28) 2. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-430/734960-sc430-navigation-door-problem.html 3. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-430/745192-nav-screen-acting-up-new-owner.html

I've never heard of a "too much metal" issue. Sounds suspect to me. I know that the OEM head unit has two antenna inputs; one for the rear telescoping metal antenna and one in the windshield. The telescoping one is now probably your only antenna (if even connected). With the OEM stereo, signals are sent to the telescoping antenna for best AM/FM reception and therefore it will auto adjust the telescopic length. Since you removed the OEM headunit, I'm not sure how the SC would compensate. It's also important to know that if you are using the OEM ML Amplifier, that using any speakers other than the recommended 8ohm door and rear speakers and 16ohm subwoofer can lead to the amp burning out (very common in the SC430). I hope BestBuy explained this to you. Just a heads up as the NEW amp is like $2000 + labor. Additionally, do the steering remote controls still work?

Volabbott, sounds like an awesome upgrade! Lots of work I'm sure. Can you post some photos of all the mods, please! I'm really interested to see how they built the rear seat!

Thanks Paul! Haha, I don't know if I'd consider myself a guru, but I do try to chime in with helpful additions and guides as people need. I've done quite a bit of mods to my car, and try to keep it DIY as much as possible. Some of my mods that I will create threads for include the DVDNav Media Integration, Aux Input, Puddle Lights in the Mirrors, Switchback LED's under the headlights, and Turn Signals/Driving Lights in the Door Handles. I try to be professional in my installs while keeping the OEM look for the SC. I will post my DIY's soon but I would be more than happy to help any members that need help with projects! :-)

Great work on the modification. Wasn't too hard right? :-) And that color is awesome! It is totally Black Cherry. I wouldn't change it. It's quite rare as I've never seen it before. Is it a pebble beach edition? Or was it repainted? It's a really nice color, don't change it!

No, I kept the OEM headunit b'c i really liked how clean the center stack looked. I really like the metal finish on the radio and I wanted to keep my dash as OEM as possible. I also like how the doors on the radio and NAV can close. I heard many people after replacing with aftermarket lose the door function on the radio. I'm just happy with how the OEM interior looks and want to keep it as clean as possible.

Check your PM's. I sent you a message.

Did you try an ECU reset? There's the soft ECU reset to try first... " 1. Get in your car and insert key. (It doesn't matter if you close the door or not.) 2. Turn the key to the on (not start) position. 3. Press the gas pedal to the floor. 4. Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal. 5. Wait 2 minutes. 6. Remove key. 7. Done" If that doesn't help a hard reset is disconnect battery for about 15 minutes.

I have never seen or heard anything like that before! Did you try having a mechanic use a code diagnostic machine? Maybe give Lexus a call?

Thanks for the props! Glad it all came together! In regard to your shipping times, as you've heard Good Things Come to those that Wait. As for your mods, photos would be amazing to help visualize your setup. I'm still so happy with my mods. From my photos you can see where I put the Arion Bluetooth remote at the side of the driver seat so it's incognito. As for the iSimple remote, I put mine right on top of the coin tray with velcro but I have seen other users that have trimmed down the coin tray and placed the iSimple remote in the space (although it must be turned sideways and the spring cover must be removed). Could be of interest to you. As for the parrot, I'm not sure as I've never seen the remote or unit itself. As for the NAVIKS, why didn't you connect to the reverse wire on the DVD harness? So you can check out the rear view at anytime? In regards to your speakers, I suggest replacement of door speakers with the Rockford Fosgate PPS8-6 8ohm, 6.5" midbass (you will need an adapter plate and minimal modification). Rear speakers with Rockford Fosgate 4" 4 ohm. and the subwoofer with a dual voice coil (8ohm per coil) wired in series. That's my setup and i get compliments on the system all the time. Also keep the total impedance as close to OEM will help keep the amp from failure (a common problem with the SC430- possibly due to swaps with unacceptable aftermarket speakers). http://s29.postimg.org/9biahab13/speaker_specs.png And as for the paint, I'd like to see this red/black/purple (Black Cherry?) you're referring to. :-)

No problem, I hope you enjoy them as much as I do. As a matter of fact, I had an O2 sensor replaced today and the mechanic was like, "Wow, that's sound system is pretty dope." I told him about the 8ohm/16ohm headache and he was impressed. since he said that he knew most systems run 4ohm or 2ohm and the trouble it must have been to find compatible speakers without destroying the amp.

Yeah, I feel that the RF def hit harder compared to OEM. Additionally, I also put sound deadner (actually thick pink home insulation) in the doors and under the rear seat and seat back. I also replaced the sub with a dual voice coil (8ohm per coil) subwoofer from Ebay which I then wired in series (therefore now 16 ohm). I replaced the rear speakers with RF 4" 4ohm (only option available) and no problem with amp yet. As for the front door adapter plate, I ordered from Ebay and I believe it was from Scosche. There was some small modification needed for the plate to allow mounting to the OEM plate. Pretty easy to figure out though. I just used self tapping screws and then the OEM screws. And as I already mentioned, the you will have to clip the wire off the OEM speaker and then strip the ends and push them into the spring terminals on the RF speaker.

Just for completion's sake.. :) http://s29.postimg.org/9biahab13/speaker_specs.png