Njoynlife

Hey All, I'm looking for the secret to removing the lock actuator from my 2004 SC. I removed the door handle and had the entire assembly loose in the door, but there seemed to be no way to get it out! Does the window need to be removed? If so, how? I'd be grateful for any help. Oh, if you happen to be looking at replacing the actuator motor, you might try repairing it as follows (this might look hard, but if you have to replace it anyway, you might give it a shot): Pry open the plastic actuator box carefully Remove the motor (it pulls up from connection prongs), pull off the worm gear Test it with 12v applied. If it doesn't go or is jerky... Pry up the 2 small metal tabs that hold on the white plastic end of the motor Pull the plastic end off and carefully remove the rotor (part that goes around) Spray off all parts with electrical cleaner or you can use alcohol Inspect the brushes (the small spring-loaded contacts that rub against the rotor). If they have life left in them, continue on... The split ring of the motor is a copper cylinder split into 3 pieces. My motor had gunk (technical term for stuff) filling the spaces between the 3 pieces of the split ring. Examine yours for same (I have a nifty disecting microscope, but you can do the same w/a magnifying glass). Carefully run an exacto knife or single edge razor blade down the three grooves between the split rings until they are cleaned out completely (more alcohol or cleaner here) Reassemble the motor. Be careful as you put the plastic end with the brushes on--the brushes must be alternately moved back as the motor shaft is turned (and back and forth and back...) Bend the 2 metal tabs back in place. Test it out with 12volts. Reassemble the worm gear then the module--be careful of the small pin that holds the gears in allignment When I did this, I didn't have much hope, but a lot of time. To my surprise the motor went from a pulsating piece of junk to a smooth-running motor again. I guess the motor is available as a replacement for about $15, but judging from the wear on the brushes of mine, there is a lot of life left in it.

3. remove actuator assembly Oh, PLEASE tell me how to do step 3. I am trying to repair the small motor in the actuator (success! I'll detail that if I find a suitable spot in the forum) in my 2004 SC but I was NOT able to remove the door handle/actuator assembly. I must have tried for an hour--finally was able to twist and turn the assembly so I could reach the screws holding the actuator, got them off and the actuator out and from there pried it open and got the motor out, disassembled, repaired, reinstalled and somehow back on to the assembly and all back in place (whew). BUT, though it worked like a champ when I unlocked the door, it won't lock and now it won't even unlock by hand-which it did before my "repair" (I suspect a linkage problem-there are 2 holes where the actuator can be positioned and I may have used the wrong one). I'm going to try tomorrow again, BUT WHAT AM I MISSING? How do you get that whole assembly out of the door? I can probably go through the same thing I went through today, but there MUST be a better way.

If you want the absolute best deal, get the package offered by fightingchance.com. I have bought 2 cars using their technique and have gotten great deals on both. The last car was our 2013 RX. We got it below dealer invoice by quite a bit. I don't have any stake in the company, but I am convinced you will do no better than to use these folks. Briefly, it is a bidding process that will take about 2 days total. You will also get a bunch of info on availability, what others have paid, exactly how to conduct the process etc. etc. Besides, it is fun to do and satisfying to know you are getting the best deal possible.

I'll add some to the discussion-but no solution-a bit different noise. I have had an annoying tick-tick sound from behind and above the driver and synchronized with road vibration (but somewhat intermittent). The best way to describe it is the noise a BB hanging from a thread might make as it swings gently into the side window glass-or maybe a part with adhesive sticking and popping off. It will go away when I push up at the roof junction panels. Of course the dealer was unable to duplicate it. I have tried about everything to no avail. My next theory is something "strumming" on the plastic tube (tick..tick,tickety-tick) through which some wires run just above where the side window contacts the weather stripping. BTW, it is not the side window sticking to the rubber-happens when the window is down a bit.

Glad to see it's quite possible to replace the run-flats with conventional rubber. Because of a previous tire malfunction and subsequent replacement of both front run-flats (couldn't get the original tires to match so had to buy a new pair) I now have a pair of rear run-flats that will need replacement quite a few thousand miles before the fronts. Anyone out there replace only an axle's-worth of run-flats with conventional tires? If so, which axle? I think I would want to put the conventional rubber on the front first.

OK, first off, I don't have any connection to the fightingchance.com website--I just used it. I just went through the purchase process (and it IS a process--about 2 days worth) and came out with a brand new 2013 RX 350. The purchase price was about $700 to $1200 BELOW dealer invoice (plus tax, title, yadda, yadda). The variable depends on whether the $489 'document fee' is a legitimate charge. Bottom line--I paid exactly $49,000 out-the-door for an RX with a $47,715 MSRP--and we have 9% sales tax. The equipment packages that will be offered in your area will probably differ from what is commonly available in my area (Phoenix). You have to put up with one of the 3 or 4 commonly available option packages in your area (usually called something like 'Nav Package with Other Options'). You can find that out by doing a "build your Lexus" on the Lexus website (you put in your zip code so it knows where you are). You will end up with an MSRP for the car with the options you want that is available in your area. As for the actual purchasing process, I can't say enough about FightingChance.com. You will pay about $40 for the packet that contains probably 50 pages--much is general information about the new car price structure, exact procedure for buying the vehicle, etc. and other very specific info on your vehicle (RX). You will probably save AT LEAST $1000 over just about ANY internet or car-buying-service price. I can't give you all the details about the process, but I can say it involves a bidding process and that you won't be able to tell what price a particular dealer may sell at. The price I paid is below what a couple of websites have for the actual dealer cost. I made 2 phone calls to the Fighting Chance office (they prefer phone calls to emails for questions) and spoke to the owner once. They are very friendly and interested in what deal you get and how the process worked for you. BTW, I now have 112 miles on my new RX (Claret Mica w/Saddle Tan) and love it already. I also have a 2004 SC430 that I bought used about 4 years ago. Good Luck on your purchase and let us know how it goes!

Came across the forum when my seat failed to program after the battery went dead. The instructions on how to reset probably saved me $ and absolutely saved time. I've had my '04 SC430 for almost 3 years. It's been a great car. Considering buying a late model RX to replace an aging and too-small '01 Acura CL. Any tips on what to look for?