Capk

Not real urgent, but I wouldn't take any long vacation trips to hot/humid locales as you will probably be running the a/c for extended periods of time which will put extra strain on the cooling system (hoses, etc.). To stop the leak right away you could probably just get a screw clamp the right size and install it right behind the existing factory clamp, but I wouldn't wait too long with summer coming up to get the whole system up to snuff.

Alex, From your pics it looks like the original hose and clamp are on your engine. In and of itself, that's okay if the hose isn't spongy or swollen,etc. However, it looks like you have had a persistent leak at that point for some time as the metal looks very corroded. The weak original clamp and hose probably conspired to give you the leak. If someone really wasn't looking like you were, they'd never notice the antifreeze leak since it probably evaporates from the engine heat after you cut the motor off. Unless you are a reasonably good do-it-yourself mechanic, I'd get a mechanic familiar with Toyota engines to drain the system, replace the hose (and clamps) with a factory hose (it's worth the cost and you can probably get one on-line from a reputable source). While you're at it replace the bottom one, too. Then have your mechanic refill the cooling system with a quality anti-freeze (be sure that person knows how to bleed the system of air properly). You can check the a-freeze level with the engine cold by just looking at the overflow tank level. Let us know how it turns out. Capk

Got the dreaded 5 blinks of the green cruise light on the dash when I tried (unsuccessfully) to engage the cruise control today. The owner's manual says this blinking is like a trouble code - it recommends that you take the car to the dealer to fix the problem. I checked the fuses, but all the fuses looked fine. Then I remembered that I had recently had a radiator replaced. The radiator leak was probably due to a hidden stress fracture near top front from a deer strike some months ago. So started snooping around and took the cover off the cruise control unit. Voila! the mechanics apparently forgot to reconnect the power socket to the unit. They must have disconnected the unit to remove/replace the radiatior. Whew! Sometimes it pays just to see if A is connected to B.

I promised I would post an update on my problem. With 103k miles the clutch pedal on my 1992 ES300 would intermittently remain on the floorboard and would have to be"flipped" back into position with my toe! This was happening more frequently and made depressing the clutch pedal/shifting an adventure. Some suggestions here were to make sure the slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder hose was not collapsed internally or repair/replace the units. The dealer could not replicate the condition, but did say he noticed the pedal "got stuck under the floormat once". In the end, I had the slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder units replaced. Now everything is working fine. Can't complain -since the original units lasted 14 years!

Had both replaced professionally on my ES300 1992 and the job IS straightforward, but be sure you have the correct tools, safe elevation of the front end, an assistant and plenty of muscle power (to disconnect the ball joints). Wheel alignment afterwards is strongly recommended.

Thanks! It's nice to hear from another "LBC" enthusiast. I've owned many British cars over the years - including a couple of "original" Minis, a Lotus, a Triumph TR250... so I have a VAST knowledge of leaky hydraulics. I have owned this green MGB for almost 30 years! It has about 160,000+ miles. There is hardly a single part on it that hasn't been removed, repaired or replaced by me. Capk - let us know what your mechanic finds. Hope it's nothing serious/expen$ive. tck... tck, I have her in the shop still. The mechanic and service manager have driven the car several times without a problem, however, I e-mailed them your response and asked them to check it out as you described. Will keep you posted. Thanks again! Capk

You need to disconnect the motor from the regulator. If I remember there is 3 bolts. Then you can pull the window up and support it with wood or something long until you can replace the regulator. Check the motor by connecting the power supply and use the up/down button unbolted from regulator). The motor RARELY goes out. Hope this helps! The ES300 power window design was improved/modified after the 1992 series according to a Lexus mechanic I talked to. However, I had a similar problem on the driver's side of my 1992 ES300 and the unit replaced with what I presume was a new 1992 unit - that was 5 years ago and no problems so far.

Sounds like a hydraulic problem. Check the rubber flex hose that connects to your slave cylinder. The rubber gets "mushy" over time, it can collapse internally and block the flow of hydraulic fluid back to the master cylinder when you let up on the clutch pedal. If the hose has deteriorated, the fluid flows OK to the slave when you push down on the pedal, can't flow back freely when you let it up - it feels like the pedal is "sticking", as you describe. The hose might look fine on the outside... the "collapsing" problem is inside of the hose. Could also be your master cylinder leaking internally. Fluid can leak past the seals inside the mc, leading to problems when you have the pedal depressed for any length of time (like waiting for a red light). Slave cylinder can develop leaks, too - but fluid usually leaks out, leaving spots on your driveway. Worst case scenario - a problem with the throwout bearing or pressure plate. It's "worst case" because the clutch has to come out of the car to fix it, a big job. This is unlikely. You don't have very many miles on your car, clutch components can last MUCH longer than 105 K as long as they're not abused. Here's what I'd do: ** Always do the cheapest/easiest things first, then move on to the more involved/expensive! Before replacing anything, be sure the fluid level is topped up. Make sure there's nothing interfering with the movement of the pedal itself. Bleed the system to be sure there's no air in the line. ** Replace the clutch hose first. It's the easiest and cheapest. Bleed the air out of the system and go for a drive. If you still have a problem, then... ** Get your master cylinder and slave cylinder rebuilt. New fluid, bleed... check it out. Should be fixed. If not, it's probably an internal clutch problem. Hope your on good terms with your favorite mechanic!... Good luck! tck... tck... Thanks I'll take your advice and share it with the mechanic who hasn't found the problem yet. Capk

Clutch pedal is increasingly reluctuant to return to position on my 5-speed manual trans. 1992 ES300. This is especially true if I hold the pedal down like at a red light. When the clutch pedal does remain down at the floorboard, I can actually "flip" the pedal back to position with my toe and clutch (so far) works so as to allow shifting of the gears. I've got about 105k on the car. Assuming these are the signs of clutch cylinder repair, should I have it AND the slave piston cylinder repaired/replaced at the same time? Thanks in advance!

My ES300 (1992 model) has had some above-normal expenses since I got it in 1998 with only 33k miles on it. It has 91k on it now. I had the a/c system repaired (condensor was leaking), CV boots/axles replaced on both sides, driver side window motor drive repaired and new timing belt/outer belts replaced. Put some plugs in and wires on by myself. However, the car runs like a top, looks great and is stylish even after 12 years! You can get the axles/boot units replaced at Sears, too. Parts Bin on-line has original Toyota/Lexus parts at very reasonable prices if you're mechanically inclined. The Lexus dealership recommends that at engine timing belt replacement time the water pump be replaced, but my local Toyota dealer said mine looked fine and just replaced the timing belt. The old belt must of stretched and affected the timing as now with the new belt, my ES300 runs like new. You have to decide if you want to keep the car and if it's worth the repair cost. To me my expenses have been an "investment" since I plan to keep the Lexus for a long time to come.

Did a search ...but with 91k on my 1992 ES300 would wires, cap & rotor replacement be a good idea? Are NGK replacement wires, etc.? Best source?