ArmyofOne
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Posts posted by ArmyofOne
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You have to remove as a unit, they are both attached together.
they are bolted together, but the case doesnt make them all one unit. to get one out unfortunately you have to remove both at the same time. so to replace one, both have to be removed.
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Hello-
Sorry if this has been discussed before, I tried a search and didn't find what I need. Anyway, I have a black 2003 RX300. I love the vehicle but I'm not a fan of the reflective tint.
I know that the reflective tint cannot be removed, but what I'm wondering is if I have black tint put on over the reflective tint will it look OK? Has anybody done this, and if so, what percentage would look best? I've also heard that putting more tint on can tone down the reflectivity of the factory tint, which wouldn't be a bad thing. I would like to tone that down and also increase the privacy for the cargo area and back seat.
I appreciate any help and advice. Thanks!!
If you add a darker tint percentage over the top of the factory mirror tint, it will make it almost ompossible to see into, but it will not nessecarily tode down the look of the factory tint. the factory tint is 15% i believe, so say you put 5% over it. it would make the reflection stand out more outside, but inside it woudl be dark. i say go for it.
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http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...romCompare1=yes
What do you think? i need new tires now, the Dunlop SP2 sports on the rear are wearing, and the Yopkhama Avids in the front are just sub-par...wearing on the inside horribly from the bad rack and pinion i had, now that that is corrected, i want to buy new tires.
The Potenza G009 is Bridgestone's High Performance All-Season tire that was developed to meet the needs of sports car, coupe and sedan drivers who want to be associated with the performance heritage of the Bridgestone brand in racing. The Potenza G009 combines Bridgestone's advanced UNI-T Technology with affordable pricing.Bridgestone's UNI-T Technology focuses on three primary tire components, the beads, casing and tread, which influence overall performance by enhancing comfort, handling and traction. On the outside, the Potenza G009 molds a Long Link Carbon Black tread compound into a directional tread design that features stable tread blocks for sporty handling, flowing grooves that channel water towards the sides of the tire to resist hydroplaning, and independent, siped shoulder blocks to provide the snow biting edges needed for winter traction. A continuous, arrow-shaped center rib helps reduce noise while providing constant road contact to increase straight-line stability. Internally, the Potenza G009 features a Computer Optimized Component System which blends twin, high-tensile steel belts with spiral-wrapped jointless belt edge strips to stabilize the tread area to enhance handling, high-speed capability and ride quality while minimizing weight.
Bridgestone Potenza G009 tires feature black sidewall styling with black letters reversed out of a circumferential serrated band. They are H-speed rated and available in 65-, 60-, 55-, 50-, 45- and 40-series sizes for 14" to 17" wheel diameters.
I dont need anything extremely special, but i would like low road noise, good comfort, and excellent traction on sdry roads. the wet traction i am not so much concerned with...what i mean is, i am willing to take a hit on the wet traction for excellent comfort. though it looks liek this tire will do it all around.
assuming it costs $20 to mount and balance a tire, I can have a set of these, installed and ready to go for $343.40 plus tax. not bad...
and i dont have to pay the tire place to put them on the car, i will do that myself, haul the old tires and rims with the new tires down there in the F150. thoughts?
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To keep sales robust, Mobil has introduced gimmick names for it's oils every year or two for the past 30 years. Examples: 25,000 mile oil, tri-synthetic oil, supersyn oil, SUV oil, synthetic oil filters, etc. and their latest gimmick is 15,000 mile oil.
Yet not once over the past 30 years has Mobil ever provided real world evidence that its synthetic lubes significantly extend engine life or fuel economy better than conventional oils.
my own experience is evidence enough for me.
*damn, i swore to myself i would never get involved in another oil thread*
*leaves immediately*
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Oh, it gets better. On Wednesday I spent 3 hours washing waxing etc.... The dent was bad enough that I had to pry the fender out to save the tire from getting eaten. It really is just life’s old fashioned BS... It could be so much worse. No one hurt and car is fixable. Other guy admitted fault ( I recorded him admitting it) and he has insurance.
I had been thinking about taking all the dings and dents from parking lots (you know shopping carts and car doors) out of the car and doing a complete repaint. Think I'll do it now.
I did get a fast estimate at about 2,200.00 but it may be low. I think the front my be pushed over.
I was in a parking lot and a guy in a full size Chevy Tahoe ( 2004 from Avis rent a car. Guy bought full coverage insurance on the rental. He lives in Mexico ) backed into me. I was stopped. His rear hit the driver side quarter panel. The wheel well was abut the center of the hit. His bumper hit the car high. Putting the biggest dent right over the center of the area over the tire. When he made contact with my car it stopped him. He then gave it gas.. And pushed me sideways about a foot. As such I will expect it tweaked the front top of the car. The Lexus is the silver two tone with gray on the lower panel. On the side that was hit the panel now sticks out about ½” in front of the top sheet metal. On the passenger side, the top sheet metal now sticks out past the lower panel. The hood seems to have the same spacing on all sides. Me thinks my car got pushed over……
Your thoughts???
sounds nasty, but not unfixable. all other panels line up straight? rear doors? trunk? no extar learge or extra small gaps?
i would pop for the repaint now too, espeically if i had the cash. $2,200 s a VERY lowball extiamte, and may not be quality work. expect to pay 3-4,000 for OEM repaint.
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The first thing i would do though, is change the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve. That probably should have been done 25K miles ago. It will cause leaks if it gets clogged.
It is extremely rare for a Toyota PCV valve to ever get clogged. Army, lots of the troubles you've seen with American cars, like blown up AC compressors, alternators and water pumps after just 100K miles don't happen with Asian cars
say that to my engine
Cam seal:
What was left of the PCV valve:
IT IS NOT RARE. it will clog, irregardless of toyota, ford, chevy, nissan. it will clog. I have spent my life around cars, i know a little something about them. when it does clog, NOT IF, but when, you will have a mess on your hands. 1 by 1, the seals will start to go. and eventually, every seal on the motor needs replaced. its better just to change it and move on.
I have seen water pumps like mine, go 150K and still look like new, i have seen water pumps on a camry, (arguably the most reliable car on earth) fail after 60K. i have seen it enough to know that maintenance schedules are there for a reason. check the OFFICIAL maintenance interval for the PCV valve, you will be surprised.
i suppose next VGR you are going to tell me the tranny fluid rarely needs changed either huh? a car is a car, lexus, or ford, the basic underpinnings of the system are the same. i gauruntee it.
searchthe forums for incedents of water pumps, power steering pumps, shocks sturts and other things failing on toyota/Lexus. you will be surprised there as well.
i suggest you go here:
and do a little searching too. asian cars are relaible, but they arent impervious to problems. and dont give me this bull*BLEEP* about a power steering pump lasting 360,000 miles, becuase in the real world, that usually doesnt happen.
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with this last go-round, im pretty much left with stuff i can do myself. this has put a HUGE dent in my list, and a fairly large hole in my wallet ;) )
Motor and tranny mounts
Rear main seal
Power steering pump (still working, but leaky)
High Pressure Power Steering Hoses
Shocks/Struts/Springs (lowering when i do it)
Fuel Filter
motor and tranny mounts and the fuel filter i will do myself.
along with the struts and springs, but i will use jason's tools to do those.
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Does anyone know how i would go about making my moonroof switch "one touch" operation to open it? i currently have to hold down the button to open it.
further explanation, i want to be able to have it open like the dirvers side window does, goes down if you press once...
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So i replaced my air filter and light bulb!!! Was easier than i thought!!! glad i didn't shell out 35 bucks for the bulb at the dealership when i did it myself for under 5 bucks.
I realized there are some oil spots on my parking space after all... assuming it comes from my car. i guess i'll shell out the 1000 for the oil leak fix and the suspension fix and put the timing belt off till later.
Thanks again for all your help guys!
DO NOT go back to that dealer. get a second opinion from a privatemechanic. alot of times the price will be less, and most fo the time they will be more honest with you.
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i have the same dash warpage from the sun on my car , like above the center console, it bothered me , i put a clock, thermostat think there so i didnt have to look at it
dont ignore it! it will crack!
replacement is unfortunately the only option.
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Did you know when you are stopped in a parking lot, and can't move forward or back up because of traffic, and a big SUV backs right into your divers side front quarter panel you can hear it go crunnnch! (my window was down and the radio was off).
Gee, I'm so happy right now, once again in Los Angeles 500 miles from home and the car is messed up.
Please no great suggestions like telling me I should stay at home more.
:chairshot:
oh man :( and after your tune up and getting int running so nicely too!
you should stay at home more :P (sorry, had to). LOL.
do you have AAA? if not, the first person i woudl call is your ins. co...
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If a leaking oilpan drops on to the exhaust manifold directly under the pan it will smell.
It is not like the exhaust on your ES
are you serious? the exhaust on the ES's after mine goes UNDER the oil pan? what an utterly stupid design...
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HAD SLIGHT MISS, DIAGNOSTIC SAID #6 INJECTOR, REPLACE WITH NEW, NOW MISS IS WORSE AND GAS MILAGE WENT DOWN BY 6 MPG
ok, the ES250 ignition system is noit very elaborate. its all mchanical, unlike newere lexus' with electronic ignition.
it is very simple to diagnose.
start the engine, pull off the #6 spark plug hwire at tyhe distributor. if the car doesnt change the way its idling, then the plug or the wire is bad.
to tell if the wire si bad, reconnect it to the distributor, and disconnect the other end from the plug. take that end and place it near the valve cover. if it sparks...your wire and distributor is working correctly.
if this is the case, replace your plugs.
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right before i baught my es250 the last owner put a new raiator in it, and i had a power stering fluid leak last year, i fixed that , it was leaking from the container, no big deal , probally common promblems wth these cars
ok update, tranny is fine, blew a seal on a high pressure power steering feed. nothing too bad. it isnt leaking alot.
THE OIL LEAKS ARE GONE.
ok, all but...
the rear main seal is still leaking, but i could care less. it sat OVERNIGHT in jasons shop, dripped ONE drop.
thats better than him coming in to a 1/2 a quart of oil on the floor after sitting overnight.
so the the list of repairs this trip:
Timing belt-1
Water pump-1
Valve cover gaskets-2
Crank seal-1
Cam seals-2
Valve cover washers-12
spark plug seals-6
Distributor o ring-1
Coolant Bypass pipe (the pipe that goes from water pump to the engine)-1
Bypass pipe o-ring-1
Intake hose-1
PCV valve-1
Thermostat-1
once again, i will reiterate, the tranny is not leaking as far as jason can tell.
now dont ask me for the price as i am not at liberty to discuss it. i have been sworn to secrecy, but lets just say, in the last month, the total has come near to $3,000.
BUT...everytime i get this car back, i love it even more! It isnt going anywhere.
the cause fo the overheating was the thermostat got caught half shut. the radiator is still clogged, but jason did a backwards system flush (for a VERY Reasonable price, again, not at liberty to discuss) and repalced the t-stat, and now allis well, but i will still have to replace the radiator eventually. it is NASTY.
and now the pix of the seals:
http://lexuslovers.com/gallery/albums/album05/DCP02358.jpg
http://lexuslovers.com/gallery/albums/album05/DCP02365.jpg
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My 2005 lx470 got hit rear end by a 93 mazda b2300. His story was he was talking on his cell phone and dropped his papers.I really dint understand his story.He also dint have his drivers licence and insurance.My car bumper and tailgate is messed up but his Truck was totaled he hit me at 30Mph.The guy looked like he was about in his 80s.I will post pics.
That really sucks to hear. That REALLY surprises me that a rear impact like that would total it out.
Would you be willing to sell it, or let me purchase it from the insurance company?
Thank,
Frank
re read that LOL:
My car bumper and tailgate is messed up but his Truck was totaled he hit me at 30Mphsorry, had to do it. but a 30mph impact in the front of a vehicle is more than enough to total it. especially a small pickup.
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Thanks Army, that parts link is helpful. Insurance is going to take care of this one, but I'm sure we're gonna pay in the long run! I'll post the total amount when we know...
definately, and glad i could help.
the fenders and hood from that link will come primered and ready for paint. all they will need is a slight sanding. :)
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im an now wondering exactly how much more i can really bring myself to put into this car. the radiator is clogged now. the car is at jasons shop and he figured this out when refilling the coolant after the TB/WP change. you guys should see those seals...they are horrible.
my valve cover gaskets were hard as a rock.
as well as all fo this, now the tranny is leaking...but it wasnt when i took it in there...maybe the pan seal again?
i suppose it could be residual from the power steering resivoir, a hose had to be removed for easier access.
at least it will be driveable now. oil leaks suck. LOL.
its so frustrating when i keep having to shell out cash. but we will see what comes about.
check # 4 @$1,500.
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AH I gotcha.
simple:
buy the panel and have it painted.
search a junkyard if you can, they may have one already painted your color.
if not, a repaint on a panel that size shouldnt run you much, about $250 or so i would think, if even that.
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Not a problem! You had some great insights so I just figured you had to be in the automotive industry!
Is the EGR valve something that has to have the tranny taken off to replace? I know that wwest was able to bend that section and that stopped the problem also.
It was the oil dipstick.
I'll check around other shops around here to see what a RMS would cost. Can I assume that a competent Toyota mechanic would have enough experience how to change a RMS or are the Toyota and Lexus RMSes that different?
First off, sorry - I didn't even think to review the title of your thread.Wow - I'll have to take back what I said about the EGR pipe, then. I had never heard of one having a problem prior to this.
Your EGR valve may go bad at some point, but it's easier to replace than the EGR pipe. I've owned a couple of cars (2 used, 1 new) that haven't needed any EGR system work at all.
There are two dipsticks in your 92 LS400 (I believe) - one for the transmission fluid and one for the oil. I'm fairly sure that your dipstick for the oil is what they're talking about, but not absolutely.
In regards to the CV boot, you probably won't notice any improvement or change - it's basically just a protective cover. If they pack it really well with grease, you might notice the absence of a very slight sound or vibration coming from the rear that you may not have really paid all that much attention to before. Little things might happen - but it's better if you don't notice any difference at all!
The oil pan gasket is a tricky one sometimes. Bad installation of a gasket can cause oil leaks around the seal, which is moreso frustrating than dangerous. I would have a garage replace the gasket provided that they're not a Grease Monkey or Quick Lube type of place (though I'm not even sure they would do something like that). Have them take a quick look and see if they think it needs replacing.
And wwest has a good point - It's so rare that the service departments see a Lexus for any real problems that they're probably dying for the work. I know the two dealerships in town both have beautiful, spotlesss, endless bays that are completely absent of any cars whenever I stop in. I almost feel bad for the techs there.
Finally, no, I'm not a mechanic by trade - though at one point in time my dad owned a shop. I'm just a financial analyst. Cars are kind of a fun hobby, though, so I like to really dig into it. Thanks for the compliment, though!
a competent mechanic can do the RMS on a LS400 in under 7 hours, toyota or not. the EGR valve is under the hood, but not under the car, i believe its near the firewall on your model.
and hes just a financial anaylist...
*Silently wishing i made as much as Econ*
LOL.
the EGR valve activates allowing exhaust gas to be reused in the comjbustion process. unfortunately the only place they can put the EGR valve is BEFORE the throttle body, which means the throttle plate gets gunked up QUICKLY. i mean REALLY quickly. a cleaning every 10K is reccomended, and a complete UIM (Upper Intake Manifold) cleaning is reccomended every 50K miles.
as for the rear main seal, it can wait a little bit, if indeed it is leaking. look under your car, does the ground have oil spots on it? does yoru catalytic converter look burnt? if not then there is no leak.
the oil pan gasket can be tricky. if you dont knwo the exact torque specs and you overtighten it you could be back under there doing it again at your next oil change. btu if you use a torque wrench, (something NO home garage should be without) and know the specs, you should be fine.
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I would at least start the car and allow it to run for a couple min's every day.
i wouldnt, idling is worse for it than not running at all.
i would take it for a drive once a week. make it a point to drive it to tghe store or somewhere liek that whenever you have the chance.
maybe once ever 3 months, take it on a 2-3 hour drive.
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Thanks guys!
I think i'll wait on the TB then since i have 80k miles i guess i can wait til 90k. However, the dealership said that it is a timing belt package and i guess it includes the stuff steviej mentioned, what is the full list of things that are done? No wonder the dealership wanted to charge me 1500 and the independant place said 325 to change the timing belt.
and about my oil leak... i don't see any oil leaking and my oil levels are normal i think. I mean, when i see the gauge in the car (if it is the oil gauge) it was always the same. I don't see a puddle of oil or drops in my parking spot either... it's just what the dealership told me. is there a way i can check myself? he said it was the rear main seal...
oh, and one more thing, i mentioned the lower control arms bushing needs to be replaced cause i was told it was broken. the dealership said 1000 to repair and the independant place said 315 to replace the whole thing since just the bushing cannot be replaced.. why is there such a huge difference in price?
ADthanksVANCE, this has to be the most helpful forum ever!!!
You have no oil gauge, you have a dipstick on your engine. its a long piece of flat steel with 2 lines on it. one says "F" for full, and one says "E" for empty" on mine it is just 2 lines though.
now, i woudl venture to say if you dont see it on the ground, the dealer is trying to pry $700 from yoru wallet. dont let em do it.
seriously, go somewhere else, because if they told you you have an oil gauge on your dash, they are out to get you. the only thing you might have is an oil pressure gauge. if this is what you are referring to then, it wont move. the engine has to work harder to keep compression if you have a leak.
but you dont have one. a rear main seal doesnt seep. it drips 9x out of 10.
just FYI. :)
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i have a 96 lexus with about 85,000 miles on it its never had a tuneup,or anything like that. what would i have to do to go and check if i have any problems,liek is it gonna cost money for a diagnostic test and how much?
most speedy lubes will do tuneups for $150 or so.
check your local listings :)
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That sounds about right. My car has been leaking oil and I had the valve cover gasket and pcv replaced about a week ago. It's leaked since I owned it (not a lot, like there would be a few drops on the ground after I leave it overnight) but I only started noticing the burning smell after I switched to synthetic.
I'm not super mechanically inclined, but I do know a few things. Don't worry about offending me though :) I have owned a few CRX's before my es300 and I always worked on them. But they're so much simpler..I didn't trust myself to do the valve cover gasket :)
One other question, besides the transaxle, are there any other places it could be leaking? Would the oilpan do it?
Thanks for the info guys!
oil pan can leak yes. but it shouldnt cause the smell.
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A V6 with 150K will definately have bad compression. Get forged pistons and the whole bit and do the mods I mentioned before on this topic. I think the 92 ES has a mostly iron block- I might be wrong. Also, go to http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=15247&hl=
It was a topic I started about making a ram air intake. It is cheap. Some people were disagreeing with me about it thinking it was the same as what comes stock on certain cars, but the air does not come in so directly stock even with a bfi. I learned though, that you NEED exhaust also for this to be really effective for you. Trust me, it is extremely effective especially at high speeds.
P.S. Putting it in L and shifting for yourself does'nt make it accelerate quicker. It just feels that way. When you try to shift up right before redline, there is a delay. It shifts perfectly everytime if you just leave it in D. I have done plenty of tests with my Beltronics accelerometer. 0-60 and 1/4 mile are faster by leaving it in D. Plus, if you leave it in lower gears too often, ur tranny fluid will get really hot-not good.
Well i wouldnt say the WILL have bad compression. mine is 15 years old and holding steady on all cylinders, even with massive oil leaks. with nearly 145K on the clock.
I would take the car to your local garage, they will probably test it for you for a small fee (under $20).
if you cant check the compression on your engine becuase fo lack of knowledge, i HIGHLY suggest you research what you are doing before you pick up a wrench. an engine is a elaborate piece fo equipment. there is one sensor in the intake, if you bump it, the engine wont run correctly.
keep this in mind before you mod. if you dont know but want to, learn.
start here:
Oil Smell After Switching To Synthetic
in 92 - 06 Lexus ES250/300/330
Posted
An alternator is not a PCV valve, neither is a starter, neither is a water pump.
My FORD contour had 384,990 miles on it and i NEVER replaced the alternator, nor the catalytic converter, nor a single engine seal. nor a single engine part(out of need). i extended the timing belt service interval to 100,000 miles and never replaced a water pump in between, never had a wheel bearing go out...need i go further? i also had an explorer with over 600,000 miles on it, had a few problems, but nothing serious. i had it for over 30,000 miles and i knew the previous owner that had it since new, never had a bit of trouble with it for the longest time.
I am DYING to know where you are getting your information about toyota, link me to it please.
My car was not WILDLY abused, it simply wasnt driven. It was maintained, but not perfectly. I would say just below average, because it wasnt driven. I dont want to get into a p!ssing match with you. Im not arguing that toyotas last longer, if i didnt know that, you really think i would be restoring one? Sheesh...this is getting rediculous. Everything i say you have to combat. Im not stupid, and neither are 99.9% of the people on this forum...dont be in that .1%...please.
As I said above, the projected lifespan of a part is not accurately reflected in the real world. And i dont know about you, but i dont have time to go through a salvage yard and look at 60 cars. I work for a living.
NOW...back on topic please?
Kyle0k, change the PCV valve, it will take about 10 minutes. and it will save you a lot of grief. for $2.53(what mine cost) its CHEAP insurance.