ArmyofOne
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Posts posted by ArmyofOne
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http://www.carmax.com/dyn/factsheet/factsheet.aspx
this is weird...
Equipment
Air Conditioning ABS Brakes
Power Steering Leather Seats
Air Bag(s) AM/FM/Cassette/CD
Power Windows Power Locks
Power Seat(s) Power Mirrors
Alloy Wheels Cruise Control
Rear Defroster Sunroof
Seat Heater
Full Package Details
Specifications
Automatic
4.0L Engine
6 Cylinders
4 Door
2WD
EPA Mileage 19/25
270 Torque@4500rpm
260 Horsepower@5300rpm
its a 1995, has 93,000 miles and they want $14k...good price?
NVM LOL, they removed it.
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http://www.carmax.com/dyn/factsheet/factsheet.aspx
this is weird...
Equipment
Air Conditioning ABS Brakes
Power Steering Leather Seats
Air Bag(s) AM/FM/Cassette/CD
Power Windows Power Locks
Power Seat(s) Power Mirrors
Alloy Wheels Cruise Control
Rear Defroster Sunroof
Seat Heater
Full Package Details
Specifications
Automatic
4.0L Engine
6 Cylinders
4 Door
2WD
EPA Mileage 19/25
270 Torque@4500rpm
260 Horsepower@5300rpm
its a 1995, has 93,000 miles and they want $14k...good price?
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ok, is it possible i hurt anything by driving it? tomorrow, when i leave for work, if it slips, i will stop right where i am and add fluid to it where it sits. i cant see it leaking from anything...it isnt burning it...so unless its mixing with the oil, i cant figure it out! the pan seal is dry... as is the ground all around the car.
ill tell you what, im not buying a new tranny if i can avoid it...and it has been shifting harder ever since i got it back from you jason for the filter change... i wonder if we didnt get the pan seal right? those can be EXTREMELY tricky, (as you well know) espeically if you didnt get every bit of gasket off. it happens.
whatever the cause, its clear that the tranny wil need rebuilt soon, cause once they start slipping, they dont really stop...
i wonder if the pressure hoses are leaking?
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Today, i had to rotate my tires, so up on the jack the car goes. no problems. tires are rotated, bubble found in 1 tire so i put the spare on. i set it down, and tightent everything up. (i might add that the car was running off and on while on the jacks).
the front end was off angle quite a bit because i was already on a hill, and then had the front of the car jacked up. the car idled in par for a good 10 minutes (listened to the radio) while on the jacks.
anywahys, i set the car down when i was done and i get in to take a test drive to see if my pulling to the left has stoipped. i put it in drive, and take off, the car goes, then slips, then goes then slips, slips some more and then goes.
i drive it 10 miles with no problem. went in to my class...1 hr and 10 mins later i come out to go to class, back out of the parking spot (this may have been my fault) and all is well, but i go to put it in "D" and as i take off, it stumbles on itself again. the ony reason i say it couldbe me this time is because as it shifted to second, i let off the gas. after that, i went home, another 10 miles, not a hint of slip. i even floored it from one light and all was smooth as butter.
but the first time it slipped, it REALLY SLIPPED. i was afraid i wasnt going to make it up my hill. i want to add that while the car was up on jacks, i spun the drivers side tire around to make sure the wheel was straight. couls this have done it?
other than that and rotated the tires, i changed NOTHING>>>
HELP!!!
so as of now i am shopping for a remaned tranny anyone know if these guys are good?
Did you check the ATF?
JPI
i checked the fluid and it looked a little low, so i topped it off, about a cup or so of fluid. it is shifting better, but even when it was low, i couldnt get it to slip after that initial start after sitting for awhile...i couldnt make it slip no matter how hard i tired...i put the ECT on and punched it down the street...went all the way to 50 (wonjt say where, just that it was deserted road..speed limit 45) and smooth as ever. i mean i literally FLOORED it. spun the tires and everything...
i wonder where its leaking from?? shouldnt be the pan, just had that done by you in december...
the plug is tight...there is no fluid coming out of the visible seals or the axle shaf holes...leaking from input shaft and mixing with motor oil from RMS?
feel free to call me @ home ( the 817-485-xxxx number) jason...
BTW jason, check this out:
http://lexuslovers.com/gallery/albums/albu...02367.sized.jpg
the source of my pull...i cant believe you missed that LOL.
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Today, i had to rotate my tires, so up on the jack the car goes. no problems. tires are rotated, bubble found in 1 tire so i put the spare on. i set it down, and tightent everything up. (i might add that the car was running off and on while on the jacks).
the front end was off angle quite a bit because i was already on a hill, and then had the front of the car jacked up. the car idled in par for a good 10 minutes (listened to the radio) while on the jacks.
anywahys, i set the car down when i was done and i get in to take a test drive to see if my pulling to the left has stoipped. i put it in drive, and take off, the car goes, then slips, then goes then slips, slips some more and then goes.
i drive it 10 miles with no problem. went in to my class...1 hr and 10 mins later i come out to go to class, back out of the parking spot (this may have been my fault) and all is well, but i go to put it in "D" and as i take off, it stumbles on itself again. the ony reason i say it couldbe me this time is because as it shifted to second, i let off the gas. after that, i went home, another 10 miles, not a hint of slip. i even floored it from one light and all was smooth as butter.
but the first time it slipped, it REALLY SLIPPED. i was afraid i wasnt going to make it up my hill. i want to add that while the car was up on jacks, i spun the drivers side tire around to make sure the wheel was straight. couls this have done it?
other than that and rotated the tires, i changed NOTHING>>>
HELP!!!
so as of now i am shopping for a remaned tranny anyone know if these guys are good?
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I need to clean the sun visors and roof of my sc300 should I use a rug shamp or what?
Does anyone know what you should you use and is there a technique for doing it with out damaging the fabric or making the liner sag ?
thanks
Scott
a standard rug cleaner will work, but an auto upholstery product will work even better. should be available at autozone, or even wal mart, but the best thing you can do is steam clean. use steam cleaning on the headliner with care though as it may undo the glue.
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Ahhh....I see...when you click on that link it bounces you to the root web. I was able to get the actual burnout.wmv to load and what the hell?!?!?! That's out of control :D
Where there's smoke there's fire...nice video AOO!!
OMG!!!! Guys i just realized this link is nto right, they close my thread on CL.
can somebody post the correct link??? ill remove the old one.
though it appears to be working for me??? WTH??
Try copying abd pasting the revised link...
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ill agree, i cant so much as even try to break the rear end loose, it just aint happening!! even when bald they hold strong!
i found something disturbing today...check this out guys:
that would be the source of my pull, and of my slight wobble at low speeds...i wondered....
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Just turning 2.05 for 93 here...if you want shell V power its $2.14
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Do not replace the cat to a universal ,especially if it works good.
The sheild is more nessacary for a newer car when a cat is new it heats up alot faster and hotter than later stages in its life to need the heat sheild.
i would agree with SK here, the sheild will not affect anything vital at this point. Replace it at your leisure, the only thing it might do is make you fail a state Saftey inspection.
dont replace the cat with a generic aftermarket one:
http://www.discounttoyotaparts.com
next time i am in houston (i have family there) maybe we can meet up.
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Falken's are an excellent tire! B) & very often overlooked I'm afraid which is a shame. B)
as long as they lat longer than these dunplops...15,000 miles is a disgrace!
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having trouble with LOC loading slow? my PC recently crashed, but i never had a problem until after i reformatted and started over...
is it the site or my PC?
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270,500 +/-200. I can't remember 'xactly, '90 LS400.
there is an older gentelmen at my office, coming up on timing belt change #4!!! thats 390K!!!!
just had a rebuild on the tranny at 360K. i helped him do it.
had a head gasket replacement (left bank) at 298,000 miles, so we went ahead and did both sides.
other than that, and perfectly timed maintenance, the car is perfect for lack of a better word. i dont think there is a scratch in the factory paint!
he maintains it religiously, synthetic oil changes (dont start guys) every 3,500 miles.
its a 1990 LS400 BTW. white and grey w/blackish blue interior, great looking car!
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Actually, thje dash removal on your 90 LS is around the same as my 90 ES. farily straight forward. 5 bolts, a few brakcets and all the trim/speedo assembly and out it comes.
you dont have a passenger side airbag, so the hardest part is removing the steering wheel.
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It can't be more then an inch. I would think it is no more then 1/2 inch. That is why it is hard to see if it is realy tweeked or not. But if you think about it, the body shop that said if it is tweeked I would be looking at, at most another $800.00 would suport the fact that if it is tweeked it is less then an inch.
yes but to see how much is really tweaked, the following parts must be removed:
fenders
fender liners
grille
headlights
headlight mounting panel
front bumper
the vent thing around the bottom fo the windsheild (forget the name)
hood
wheels
then and only then, when the front of the car is bare frame, will they/you be able to see what has to be done and accurately diagnose issues that may be hidden...1 broken spot weld could be criticial. i would drive right past any body shop that would give me anuthing more than a "rough" estimate without telling me they would have to see it while its apart.
i hope your subframe (AKA engine cradle) isnt warped...that could mean big money.
Example:
that is whatt he car needs to look liek to be accurately estimated. so pull all that off except maybe the mounting panel for the headlights and the headlights themselvs and drive to a few body shops...see what they say about ordering a new fender and hood and bumper to the mix, (to minimize bondo useage) and then ask them about a paint match/full repaint.
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during initial start up i hear it as the car is idling, but im not sure if its continuous with acceleration.
any idea on the price of getting it checked and adjusted? (im taking it to a toyota dealership tomorrow)
i have a different engine, but i have almost 145K and its never been done according to what little service records there are, mine are working fine :)
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well unfortunately we have no interior hots of the egine, i thought there would be...but thats ok:
*Drum Roll Please*
Timing belt, almost perfect! 143,564 miles!
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they do a great job for low speed impacts under 30 mph
over that they also do a good job but that is when you start to get hurt more than the truck since the vehicle is made to crumple under stress but instead sends the velocity changes to the passagners instead of it being absorbed
If you can get a custom mount that breaks under more than 80 punds of force then it will protect the vehicle until it is needed to protect you instead
thast a good point sk. a breakable mount. i never woudl have thought of that.
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Rascal,
get the pics off the camera.
click on my controls (up the top).
in the navigation links on the left you will see a link that says "My Albums" up at the top.
Click that - then hit "create album".
once you have an album, you can upload your pics, and the use the IMG button when making posts.
As you are not a gold member, you have 1 megabyte of webspace for pics, so you should reduce the size of the pics if you can.
Gold Members get 10 times more space for pictures
Thanks..I'd gladly become a GOLD Member if it wern't for having to have a PAYPAL account...noway there..done that!!!
exactly my point, now if i could mail a check or money order i would be all over it!
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You are right Army- that was what I was referring to. I have no idea why I used that on the dash. I think if I recall, I had asked someone here about it before I bought it- when I was trying to find good conditioner for my seats. I think someone here told me it was OK to use on the dash (vinyl). :(
I still think that ruined my dash cover. <_<
90, you are not the only one who has had the proeblem with "that product".
that product he is referring to is lexol (i believe that was you commenting on it in another thead anyways) and i woudlnt reccomend it for anything EXCPET leather. In my experience, it doesnt do vinyl much good...especially dashboards.
yeah that want a good move, but we all make mistakes.
and one woudl assume it would also be ok for vinly when in fact it isnt....
its an easy mistake to make :)
there is a product floating around on ebay thats supposed to soften dashes up after years of sunlight exposure...look for that.
i forget the name.
for now, i would try a SMALL amount of baby oil in a corner somewhere...that may soften it back up.
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I would guess that you could just "pry" it off, but I would not try this until you know for sure.
I think it is unacceptable for a 2003 car to have an interior rattle- especially a Lexus.
I remember I was so impressed with my 1990 LS400 when I first got it, because it was so squeak and rattle free. Unfortunately, that rapidly changed when I started using a certain interior care product on the dash pad. It was supposed to be for leather interior, but I was thinking it would be OK on vinyl too. It hardened and it started making "pop" noises when I would hit bumps, then the right front window developed a rattle. I am still not sure if that actually hardened the interior panels, but strange that the vinyl hardened after the application.
My 1992 Acura Legend is still 100% squeak and rattle free, as well as free of "pops", so I will be sure to never use that product on that car, just to be safe.
Good luck on getting that rattle fixed.
I also have a dash rattle sound on a 92 LS400. I was told by Belle Lexus that they would need to change the steering counsel that would be $500!!! to replace to get rid of the sound! From what the guy said, there are teflon ballbearings or something like that that wear out and that they need to be changed. He said that they typically go out at about 150K. Is this a fix that I can do myself? It sounds like a card that has been put in the spokes in a bike. Soft, but I do hear the sound and it gets faster, the faster I go. It starts when I get up at about 5 mph and then gets to a constant "click" sound.90, you are not the only one who has had the proeblem with "that product".
that product he is referring to is lexol (i believe that was you commenting on it in another thead anyways) and i woudlnt reccomend it for anything EXCPET leather. In my experience, it doesnt do vinyl much good...especially dashboards.
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Hello,
ArmyofOne, You are right, Friend of mine who is good mechenic he told me same.
its like safety valve.
Thanks,
no problem. as for your suction issue, the PCV valve only works one way...so the pressure thats in the crankcase with the valve in place will only go oput, it wont suck more in. its a one way valve. now, without your valve in place, you have the condition you got. its compeltely normal.
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V - 149 MPH
The tire should fit your rim, but not sure about fender clearance.
no worries about that, the fender well on my 250 is PLENTY wide...i couldnt beieve how wide it was...
and if it will rub, then it wont fit on my rim...
thanks for the input guys, ill keep you posted :)
:cries: :chairshot: 
secret ninja style post. sry.
Tranny May Be Shot
in 92 - 06 Lexus ES250/300/330
Posted
The Gen II camry's tranny is slightley different. the ES250 transaxle is watered down, made to shift smoother. theoretcially a camry tranny would fit, but it woulnt feel right.
a rebuild will run around $1800 with R&I. not bad...BUT:
The slipping seems to have stopped...completely. i went to work, then i went downtown and came back after work, all total about 100 miles and not a slip one. im thinking the fluid was low.
here is my theory:
as long as the car is on level ground its ok. BUT, there is a seal around the speedo input (or some kind of openeing) hear the top of the tranny/diff case. i think that seal is bad and that the car being up on jacks (the car was probably at a 45 degree angle being already on a hill) lets the fluid drain out of that seal, which is no longer working (obviously). when it does this, it flows down on top of the tranny case (the lower bart fo the unit) and stis there.
this explains the fact that:
Its not VISIBLY leaking any fluid
The slippoing stopped after adding fluid.
apparently i didnt lose much, cause it only took a cup or so to stop the slip...
but im not holding my breath, as i said, once they start slipping, they dont really stop. but all is well and fluid is not burnt. i will have jason doa fluid drain and fill the next time im out there.
i also got this email back today from nyblock.com
and i called him on the phone, they have quite a few of them, so there is no rush. of course im not going to replace it until it goes :)