Texasoil

Your vehicle may have enough miles on it now to be nearing the end of life of the suspension accumulators

If your Lexus LX-470 is now doing the 'bouncy-bouncy' and riding like it ain't got any give to the suspension--you got flat accumulators!

You gotta be sitting down when you hear what the Dealer wants to fix it. :cries:

I can now offer NEW replacement accumulators for $350 each.

I had a quality manufacturer make them to my specifications( improved over OEM.) Simple to install in your driveway (1 hr/all 4)--and they can be recharged when eventually needed for $100 each.

I can also take your old ones and modify and recharge them for $175 each. If they are leaking and won't hold the charge, either my new ones :D or the Stealers.

'TexasOil'

Kebowers47@gmail.com

B and B Suspension

832-651-7576

For your new vehicle to behave as if it decided where to go-drifting around -is unacceptable and definitely NOT normal. Either front and/or rear axles are loose and moving around when powered/unpowered, the alignments (front AND rear) are not properly adjusted, or something is real screwey with the torque split side-to-side in either or both differentials. DO NOT accept this dangerous condition. INSIST the regional rep drive it and either get it FIXED right away or REPLACE the entire vehicle.

If your Lexus LX-470 is now doing the 'bouncy-bouncy' and riding like it ain't got any give to the suspension--you got flat accumulators! You gotta be sitting down when you hear what the Dealer wants to fix it.

I can now offer NEW replacement accumulators for $350 each.

I had a quality manufacturer make them to my specifications( improved over OEM.) Simple to install in your driveway (1 hr/all 4)--and they can be recharged when eventually needed for $100 each.

I can also take your old ones and modify and recharge them for $175 each. If they are leaking and won't hold the charge, either my new ones :D or the Stealers.

'TexasOil'

Kebowers47@gmail.com

B and B Suspension

832-651-7576

:D I can recharge thenm for you if the bladders are not ruptured (unlikely) Drop me an email (kebowers47@hotmail.com) . I have been doing this for many years for other makes and nearly a year for the LX-470 owners. Cost is 25% of Dealer parts price. Have DIY instructions also its REAL simple and easy to do

Thanks for the info, Gary! I have a somewhat similar problem: the passenger side of my GF's LX470 is about 1" higher then the driver’s side. I brought it to the local dealer yesterday, they flushed the suspension fluid, charged me $700, but apparently this didn't fix the problem (although the car seemed level when I picked it from the dealer, on the next stop ~5 miles away it was tilted again). So I crawled under the car, found the arm Gary it talking about, but since it's just one sensor on the driver’s side, changing it position won't do me any good.

Does anyone know what can be the source of the problem? The car's passenger side is always ~1" higher, no matter what suspension mode is used, what stiffness is set, what load is in the car. I measure the distance between the top of the wheel and the top of the wheel arch. I always measure it twice on each side, parking the car looking the opposite directions on the same spot, so even if there is a gradient on the ground, it'll cancel itself out on the second measurement.

Thank you!

Roman

$700 to replace one gallon of suspension oil? WoW!

The problem is the right front torsion bar needs to be backed off some(or drivers side cranked up.) You may have to replace one or both of them (defective?)

I have a new LC 100 series TD fited with the adjustable suspension as has been fitted to the LX 470. It has been causing me some grief. In the first instance the ride height adjusted upwards erratically under its own control whilst driving. Unfortunately it has been erratic, and the Toyota dealer has been unable to find the fault. They blamed front and rear bars that were fitted. However it was doing it prior to the fitment of these items. I don't think they believed me. The vehicle stopped behaving erraticlly after a few thousand kms on gravel roads. However I have now discovered that the weight of these attachments (220kg) including a winch has meant that the maximum pay load has been reduced by 220kgs, as if I put more that 5 people or load equivalent the vehicle drops to the lower setting and sulks!. Is there a work around for this in terms of re springing the rear. There are issues with height settings and shock absorber pressures. I believe just placing heavier springs in the rear is likely to give the vehicle a mental breadown. Toyota have not a clue! Thus I am trying the Lexus circle for an answer.

The only way I know to increase the load carrying capacity before the height system goes into (can't take-it am now laying down on the job) is to retrofit stiffer springs to offset the 450# of weight you added.

The height control system has pressure limits such that when the vehical gets too heavy, the only way it can support it is to 'squat down'. Stiffer springs will definitely work.

BTW, be sure your accumulators are in good shape. I can modify them and recharge to a higher pressure so they will have full suspension travel range at the heavier weights you are carrying. Otherwise, suspension travel decreases with added weight (unless stiffer springs added).

Let your buddies on the LC forum know I can recharge their flat accumulators (all4 for what 1 costs at Dealer!)

Well, I did pull the fuse on the driver's side and it did stay at L while I drove it. It takes about 2 seconds to pull the fuse, so I just did it since I can always put it back. Seems to handle a lot better with less body roll, however, the suspension is a little firmer. Took it on the freeway and didn't seem to have any problems.

I did a search for this issue and there is a Japanese company that makes a device that overrides the height control and leave it at the setting. No need for it since it's just a matter of pulling the fuse.

Anyone know why Lexus design it this way? It seems kind of redundant pushing the button and waiting 5 seconds for the car to lower, then getting out of the vehicle.

If there is no real issue with this, I preferred to leave it at L around the city and freeway driving. In the meantime, I'll put the fuse back.

For one thing, the front end alignment will be incorrect and will wear out the tires quickly if driven on pavement much in the Low position.

RECHARGING ACCUMULATORS

I am puzzled about messaging not working--anyway, TEXASOIL here aka keith bowers

email is kebowers47@gmail.com., phone is (832) 651-7576cell (713) 664-8276 home

website is q45asuspension.com (sorry bout that ,lexus site under development) LX are easy compared to Infiniti's active suspension

I modify and RECHARGE suspension accumulators for LEXUS and INFINITI cars. All accumulators slowly go 'flat', and when they do, your ride gets choppy and then harsh--and you start tearing up costly suspension bushings and other pricey stuff. I did 3 sets for Lexus LX-470 this week and one set (of 9) for an active suspension Infiniti Q45. Cost is $175/accumulator. I am hunting for more Lexus cores so I can turn around more customers . I need 4 old rear accumulators and 2 old fronts. worth $$ to me.

It takes only 1-2 hours to remove, old,reinstall fresh, and bleed the lines, including 45 min to jack up, put on jack stands, and then remove same. Actual accumulator R&R is a very easy hour laying on your back.

Removing the accumulators requires either a 1-1/2 inch opening , 1/4 in thick 'spanner' or open end wrench--or a 'chain wrench . One can buy a cheap 1-1/2" open end wrench, grind it to 1/4" thickness. 'Bleeder' is standard 10mm 'brake-bleeder.

I simply can't believe the outrageous labor charges from the dealer, not to mention the highway robbery for new parts.

I charge $175 each, one year warranty, 50% off lifetime to purchaser after that.

Im new on the forum But im very interested in getting my accumulators recharged front & rear tried to email you, or pm but no succes :cries: how can we get this started. thanks

What is 'firm' mean does it have suspension travel--or are the accumulators flat and you have no suspension travel? If they put brake fluid in the suspension reservoir--all the 'rubber' parts are toast. Mega $$$$. Same with antifreeze. ATF not great--but no permanent damage.

Either you have flat accumulators or the solenoid control valves are stuck in 'firm' position. Will the vehicle raise/lower if you change the height switch? If it doesn , that lowers probability of the problem being the solenoid valves

Sounds like a very good diagnosis is needed. If you do not have any appreciable suspension travel when bouncing on the corners--most likely flat accumulators. OEM are $500+ each. I can rechange them for $175 each.

they have to do more than replace the shocks if the system was contaminated. If it was OIL , a simple fluid flush will do. If it was antifreeze or brake fluid--a complete system replacement is in order--the antifreeze and brake fluid destroy the 'rubber' components in the accumulators, struts(shock cartridges), electronic solenoid valves,etc.

If the symptom is a very choppy/bouncy ride--check to see how much suspension travel you have. It should be quite a bit. It is's just a bit, then the 'accumulators' are flat/nearly flat. They slowly loose their nitrogen pre-charge and cause the choppy/harsh ride. You can either replace them ($500-600 each+ labor) or have me modify and recharge them.

I suspect you have flat accumulators.

If you bought the vehicle because it was sold as >6010 GWV, and then later Lexus says oops sorry its not- you have a legal right to revoke your acceptance of the vehicle and get ALL your money back. :chairshot: No deductions for mileage driven. It is a Lexus problem with a whole can of worms for them.

You will need to 'prove' or 'be able to prove' it was sold to you as conforming to the higher GWV. You will also need to affirmatively state clearly that the higher GWV was and is a key/critical factor in the purchase decision, and the vehicle would not even have been considered if it did not meet that criteria

You may have to get an attorney to make them do it, but THE LAW is on YOUR side.

The sulfur smell from the exhaust is caused by excessive sulfur in the gasoline you are buying. Try a different brand. Also complain to the oil company. If they have sold a fuel that does not meet Federal specifications, and your emissions control system (or vehicle) is compromised, they have to fix it.

Are you smelling the exhaust inside the vehicle? :o That is a no-no. :chairshot: How is exhaust getting in? :whistles: If the rear window is left open when driving, it will suck exhaust back inside the vehicle.

The accumulators on the suspension are what provides the 'give' when you go over a bump, and are what provides the 'push' to move the wheel down into a hole.

When they lose their nitrogen charge (slowly leaks through the 'rubber' diaphragm into the oil) . they fill up with oil, and can no longer absorb any bumps or force to follow holes. :(

I can recharge them for a small fraction of new parts prices.

Send me an email

Judging from your description, it sounds like the ride control unit is malfunctioning some times. If the ride control valves are not properly powered, the thing will not ride right. It will either have no dampening, or too much--depending on the failure mode

The correct fluid for your suspension system IS a light oil.

Not brake fluid! :chairshot:

Even a little brake fluid will destroy all the 'rubber' components -o-ring seals, pump seals, accumulators, etc requiring replacement of those parts (and a thorough flushing.) :cries:

Even a little contamination WILL get into everything. the fluid in the reservoir does slowly migrate everywhere. :(

I can clean all the damper valves and recharge the accumulators for a small fraction of dealer parts prices.

Send me an email and lets keep you with active suspension

Keith Bowers aka Texasoil

A number of manufacturers are having similar problems GM has a bunch in their Suburbans.

Some Piston slap IS normal on really cold start--the question is "How Much is Normal?'

<_<

One thing that can/will make it worse is varnish building up on the wrist pins or in the piston ring grooves.

Try adding 1 pint of Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase and run it a full change cycle to see if it improves it. MMO will gently soften varnish without hurting anything.

It only take 0.004" of piston skirt clearance at normal room temp to sound real loud when temp is 30F.

If it knocks at operating temp--it is too loose. If it is quiet at operating temp it may be OK.

You should not ever be able to hear it inside the vehicle windows up. :cries:

I have just successfullymodified and recharged a set of suspension accumulators for a LX-470.

I have been doing this for 5 years for active suspension InfinitiQ45's.

The LX suspension accumulators can be modified and recharged for $175 each with one year warranty on the work. Re-recharging for $50each.

I can also supply industrial quality new rechargeable accumulators to replace the OEM units.

Email me or post for more details. :D

It's the cooler for the suspension fluid

check out the EGR system, make sure all the passages are CLEAN. Also check coolant temperature--too hot will also cause knock.

You should clean out the EGR system pipe and passages and ensure it is working correclty. Low EGR will cause knocking, as will high coolant temperature.

I have been supplying recharged suspension accumulators for InfinitiQ45's with active suspension for several years now. I'll be happy to offer the same service to Lexus owners. I modify the accumulators with aircraft parts and restore them to full original charge pressure--for about 1/3 of new parts prices. Full one year warranty, lifetime 50% off after that. Rebuilt parts are sent for your exchange, yours sent back to me.

SAVE LOTS OF MONEY!