jamesbondsc300

try "car-part.com" I've found lots of second hand parts for my SC300 from these guys. Nice to see a girl in mississippi thats into these cars:) I'm from Long Beach but live in Tupelo now.

Tanabe all the way! Sounds so great

i would have searched on this before asking, but the retarded search function wont let me search with 4 characters or less, so 'fob' was unsearchable. ANYWAY...i have a 94 sc300, and was wondering if it came stock with a key fob? im inclined to think it has, because there is a switch built in under the dash that disables remotes, and it looks factory..secondly, i just discovered last week my car has a factory alarm, when somehow the security featured was engaged and i tried to close the hood, it triggered some switch which set the alarm off.

i went on ebay to check for fobs, and it appears 95 is the first year that it was offered..so....what gives?

95 was not the first year. I have a 93 sc300 and it has one. Its my understanding that all sc300's and 400's came with fobs built into the orginal key when they were sold new. I have mine, but something was messed up with my keyless entry system. Goto best buy and get a viper keyless entry system installed $139 no other relays are needed and your alarm will arm and disarm with the lock and unlock buttons on the viper remote(as well as lock and unlock your car wow!)....or you could go get a quote from lexus and depending on whats wrong with your system for 700-1000 bucks like they told me haha

Come on guys help me out here!

i've recently encountered a problem with my serpentine belt, tension pulley and pulley arm. i was pulling out of my driveway and i felt a hard thump and right after, my power steering gave out. i lifted the hood to find the serpentine belt was snapped and laying over the engine. my car came with an extra belt and thought it wouldn't take long to wrap it on. after my attemp to apply the belt, i quickly noticed the amount of slack in the belt. then i realized the tension pulley wasn't rotating as it should. so i removed the 9/16 bolt from the center of the tension pulley wheel and as soon as i did, the ball bearings made a run for it. i called Auto Zone for another tension pulley wheel. after acquiring the new wheel and re-installing it, i ran into another problem... i couldn't move the tension pulley arm. i tried using the technique that worked on a '95 Cavalier i used to own by putting a wrench on the bolt holding the tension pulley wheel in place by turning to tighten the bolt in which the tension pulley arm would flex down enough to where the serpentine belt could be installed. needless to say, it didn't work for the "92 Lexus SC 300. is there anyone who knows of the method that is required to relieve the tension from the tension pulley arm so that i may apply the serpentine belt to its rightful place under the hood the car ????? :cries:

I ran it the same thing replacing my PS pump. I finally figured out i needed a "breaker bar"(a really really long ratchet or a long pipe put over the handle of a ratchet) for alot more leverage. It holds more tension than any other car I've ever had. Try it and let me know

Looking for a strong clutch for my sc300.....mods include tokico illumina 5 way adj struts and Tanabe GF springs (all from TT supra) Tanabe exhaust, LSD from Supra, Single turbo coming soon!!! (under 400whp) I also wanna put in a lightweight flywheel while I'm in there. Anyone got a good setup that they can tell me about?

also in the FTL area. would like to know whom is doing your swap, and where did you buy the engine (local)?

you need a transmission. If you're trying to swap an auto into a manual, then you need to buy a clutch, master and slave cylinder. Also don't forget to buy a 3inch radiator. Change the thermostat and water pump while you're at it so you don't have to go through the hassle of changing later. Your engine should already come with a leak down test warranty, exhaust manifold, turbo, and fuel injectors already. so you don't need to buy those parts, only if you're planning to upgrade.

3 inch radiator eh? thanks, ya i was rebuilding the engine from the ground up so water pump and thermostat were on the agenda. i was thinking of getting about 600 horse power do you think stock injectors could still work?

no, you have 330 stock injectors you'd need at least 550's

can someone please give me some advice bout the turbos for these cars. im wanting to know if i should buy the turbonetics one for 4k or is it safe to get one of the ones for around 1k am i going to get the same perfomance? or are the turbonetics just better quality and perform better?

You'll get the same performance, it's just the name you're buying. The performance depends on turbo size also, there are many different size for turbos. If you put a turbo into an NA car, don't expect to just buy the turbo and slapping it on. You'll spend way more money on turbo charging a non-turbo car than just swapping it. If you go turbo, i suggest you swap it off with a turbo motor.

i dont want to have to hassle with motor swapping i know a mechanic that can prolly install it for me im just trying to get around 350hp or more and a turbo kit and exhaust seems to get me there this is the link of the turbo im thinking of buying if its worth it i know there is some parts missing but this see,s to be one of the best deals and it doesnt look like its junk

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?S...250-90-SH250-90

here is the same kit.....just less

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T67-Turbo-k...sQ5fAccessories

Kinda looks like a Mazda 3. But still cool anyway.

yep, looks like a Mazda 3....thats why I don't like it.

Bought a 1993 - 400SC in mint condition for $6000 with 28,000 original miles from a couple in Boca Raton, Florida who had replaced the Lexus with a new Mercedes. 12 disk CD Changer didn't work and bought a used one on EBay for $50. Car drives great and my mechanic, Eric's Wrench in Delray Beach, former Lexus dealer mechanic says it should be good another 200K. Looking to replace the radio with a new GPS, IPod, Bluetooth, etc. replacement but looking for a quality shop to custom make the trim piece and installation. If anyone knows or recommends shop, please email me at grady273@yahoo.com.

Tight Lines,

Grady

sonicelectronix.com has a double din install kit for the larger head units

I went ahead and ordered some tokico Illumina's and Eibach springs(for a 93-98 supra TT) A guy i know who ownes a turbo supra has some and recomended them for my Lexus. I know they are interchangable, but my question is how much should it lower my SC? its my understanding that the supra struts should lower my car about 1.5 inches with the Eibach springs. The perches on the supra struts are supposed to be higher, but the factory springs are not as tall(i think) Anyone know much about this set up?

update......the supra store called me back and said the eibachs were discontinued. I called other places and got the same response. I'm now getting GF210 Tanabes "GF" standing for "grip feeling" ( i have a sneaking feeling that they are alot stiffer) I know the "NF" tanabes are "normal feeling" and softer. If anyone knows anything about these please let me know.

I went ahead and ordered some tokico Illumina's and Eibach springs(for a 93-98 supra TT) A guy i know who ownes a turbo supra has some and recomended them for my Lexus. I know they are interchangable, but my question is how much should it lower my SC? its my understanding that the supra struts should lower my car about 1.5 inches with the Eibach springs. The perches on the supra struts are supposed to be higher, but the factory springs are not as tall(i think) Anyone know much about this set up?

Looking to get some coilovers and I'm mainly looking for comfort......suggestions??

119 people have looked at this and nobody has an opinion? Thanks alot guys

Looking to get some coilovers and I'm mainly looking for comfort......suggestions??

[/quot

wasnt that, i dont know what it could be

could be a faulty switch on the e-brake

Looking to get some coilovers and I'm mainly looking for comfort......suggestions??

I am somebody who knows cars for a long time especially American cars and I know a lot about the engines they have like every car have a name or number for the Engine or Transmission they have.

But I don't know much about foreign engines.

I work at the Vw dealership and they tell me that the engine in my car is the same as the Ls has.

But that can't be true the thing is they don't know this engine is not a stupid engine it has almost audi like performance it can go to high rpms without problems but it' still very smooth but it's still sporty not a luxury engine.

Like with Duratec engines when you drive them a little hard they lose power very fast in a few years you'll have slower performance so most people baby the car a little more.

But my sc400 feels a little bit like an Audi like it's a sportcar but the engine is still quiter and smoother then Audi but when I step on the gas the way it operates feel more european then luxury.

So I found out the Ls 400 has an 1uzfe engine.

That engine was designed FOR the Ls 400 and it's a 4.0 v8.

The sc400 is ALSO a 4.0 v8 but I went too google and I found the 1 uzfethe 2 uzfe and 3uzfe.

But only the 1Uzfe is 4.0 v8.

But these are all Original 100% Toyota engines.

But people at work told me that in the 90's Gm owned Toyota and Toyota build a lot of cars on the platform of Gm.

LIke Toyota Corolla is actually a Chevy Prism a Geo Metro also has a Toyota that looks like it and that the Sc400 is actually a Cadillac model that should have come out but didn't .

But I'm thinking the Sc400 is build together with another EUROPEAN car maker like Chrysler have Benz engines I think the engine is part 1uzfe and part Mercedes or something.

Because I went to change the bushings a few months ago and noticed that My sc had independent suspension.

It's not normal for a car to have an independent suspension in 1994 so I think the suspesion came out of some European car.

So do any of you know the number of the engine AND the transmission found in the SC400?

And did Gm really own TOYOTA?

Because these people are car guys but they don't know.

Way back in the begining they tought all LEXUSUS had a camry engine in them and we're all front wheel drive.

Now they went to look for some information and came out with this thing that Sc400 has Ls 400 engines and that those engines are lame and not build for performance like Vwengines.

All they are interested in is speed and performance and this likes cars made for older people I don't care about that but just for the record I want to find out that I don't have an engine made for slow luxury cars.

To answer one of your questions: No, Gm has never "owned" toyota. They did however have a partnership in building crossover models ie. (united motor group) that went from the late 80's(corolla/prizm) until recently(pontiac vibe/ matrix)

The owner said that he can do 0-60mph in 1.4 sec.yes ONE POINT FOR SECONDS!!!

He said he timed it himself one day and I saw that was the only car that really leaves me behind.

... I know it's stupid ...

... I know this post makes no sense ...

But anyway I know all this stuff is senseless so I can imagine why most people won't read it

You know Danny, in the beginning, I was quite amused by some of your earlier posts ... now I'm a bit concerned. It's not a rant. It's not a monologue. It's not a dissertation. It's a rambling mess! You're embarrassing yourself. :chairshot:

My advice ... think twice about what you're going to write, edit it down to about 5 lines of type, then read it out loud to yourself before posting to see if it makes sense.

Oh

The thing is when I give a comment I don't give exactly my comment I give the comment of the people at work because they know more about foreign cars then me anyway.

Something else you might consider. There may be some LOC members who have or had an audi, porsche, or (like myself) a bimmer, but believe me, no one here is even slightly interested in anything your co-workers have to say. Now don't take this as an insult, :whistles: but I suggest you keep it Lexus or go post at VW.

"IRS" not common on a 1994 car?????? Dude! My 76' datsun 280z has it! As well as all the nissan 240sx's I've owned! Had an 87 200sx nissan with it also. What planet are you from? You made me laugh with that post about sc300's and 400's having to be rebuild after 150,000 or so miles! Whatever your smoking just stop! These cars easily go 300,000 miles! Btw according to most consumer groups Vw's have some of the worst quality ratings of any brand. Just get off your Vw kick already!

I red-lined second gear and car start missing. It was early on a Saturday and wanted to give newer BMW some attitude (back). It was hard to see tach because of sun and guage not well but really had eyes on BMW. Bought car Dec 31 so still getting used to it. VERY surprised I red-lined so quickly...hats off SC300. I had this terrible sick feeling after I did it. I have been driving sticks for years and ALWAYS stayed away from the red line. Car just started missing when hit the red so immediately backed off. I am now babying it, smelling, watching temp guage, waiting for a vibration from engine but nothing so far. It is a well maintained '97 SC300 with 90K. Thinking of driving from Philly to Indy to celebrate with old friends to watch Super Bowl. Opinions?

I've done the same thing in mine many times(by accident of course)....your totally fine don't worry. Just don't go doing it every day or you will have problems.

I have had a few problems over the years with a sticking gas pedal, but very few. I have sprayed the linkage with WD40 and that would fix the problem for many months. I do that with each lube job. Now I'm a little concerned that our Lexus vehicles from Toyota might have pedal designs that Toyota is currently expiriencing. I'd like to see if other Lexus owners here have had problems in the past.

I wouldn't spray it with wd40 any longer (its water-based) a better solution would be PB Blaster or maybe white lithium.

My car in a 93' sc300 with almost 180,000 miles I have never had the problem your describing. Its my understanding that the sticking pedal problem newer toyotas are experiencing is a premature wear issue related to the linkage. If I were you I would order a new linkage from lexus and have it replaced. I did have a similar problem on a 1976 datsun 280z the plastic pivot balls on the very complex and over engineered throttle linkage had worn and developed "flat spots on the inside. This caused the throttle to stick when pressed all the way to the floor.(very scary) Even if no one else has had this problem in an sc400 this is a very serious saftey concern and should be repaired right away.

Well guess what..... I can't duplicate the problem now. Fuel pressure is good, the fuel filter has been replaced 5K miles ago, don't know what the hell is wrong.

No codes either.... I'm afraid to drive it because it will probably happen again, and then I'm again gonna be stuck in the middle of nowhere waiting for a tow.

if the "cel" light came on there should be codes stored in history even if the light came on and then went out. Let me ask a few questions first....when the car went dead did the radio, guages or anything else suddenly turn off as well? Do a fuel pressure test and make sure the PSI on the rail is within factory specs. Do this several times (once on a "cold start" and one after you have driven the car for 10min or more). how long had you been driving when this happened? How long did the car sit before you were able to restart it? What mods (if any) have been preformed on your car?

Pull one of the fuel lines off and crank the car and see if fuel comes out. If not then check the fuel pump relay and also check the EFI fuse. If one of those is bad it'll just die. Also in my ls400 I'm not too sure about this on your car but in the fuse box underneath the dash there is another fuse just for the fuel pump and i remember mine went bad once and my car would cut off instantly. Happened to me at school a while back because the fuse was loose, so i put some pressure on it and managed to get it to stick in there and haven't had any problems since. If you had the timing belt replaced there's no way it could have broken again in that amount of mileage. They usually last 60-90k miles. Good luck.

Also.....pulling the fuel line off and seeing if fuel comes out won't help you much(other than telling you that fuel is getting to the fuel rail) because you can have fuel getting to the rail, but it may not have adequate fuel pressure to start or run the engine. <_< you'll have to get a pressure guage to test that.

Pull one of the fuel lines off and crank the car and see if fuel comes out. If not then check the fuel pump relay and also check the EFI fuse. If one of those is bad it'll just die. Also in my ls400 I'm not too sure about this on your car but in the fuse box underneath the dash there is another fuse just for the fuel pump and i remember mine went bad once and my car would cut off instantly. Happened to me at school a while back because the fuse was loose, so i put some pressure on it and managed to get it to stick in there and haven't had any problems since. If you had the timing belt replaced there's no way it could have broken again in that amount of mileage. They usually last 60-90k miles. Good luck.

actually it could be the timing belt again (if it was some how improperly installed), but before you do anything else try pulling the codes on the computer and go from there. It cracks me up how so many people just start randomly changing parts when they have a problem. These people are "part changers" not "mechanics" like they often try and pass themselves off as. The truth is many components of you car could cause it to have the problem your describing. just use the process of elimination. ;)

Would you please explain more about the mods for the sc400. I like the words simple and affordable!!!

Thank you

Ray

intellexual.net, it'll get you started :)

Hopefully, by being on this website, you understand the basics of the 2jz series of engines. In the United States, Toyota released "technically" 2 versions of the 2jz motor, the GTE and the GE.... both come standard with DOHC, 24valves, EFI, etc... what else can you expect from Toyota?

The basic differences between the GE and GTE (not comparing either VVTI editions):

-Most obvious difference to anyone familiar with engines is the TURBOS. The GE has none, thats what the 'T' in GTE means.

-Another is the style of intake manifold, the GE has a manifold developed for more torque development in the lower-part of the rpm band vs the GTE's short runner type. The GE doesnt have more torque; its just that it develops more than it would if it had a GTE-style intake manifold. Hope you knew that.

-Compression, the GE runs a 10:1 compression ratio and the GTE runs a 8.5:1 compression ratio. The differences are obtained through a thicker headgasket (.2mm for GE vs 1.6mm for GTE) and lower compression pistons on the GTE. The higher compression allows the GE motor to make the most of its power since it lacks turbos to begin with.

-Injectors and Airflow sensors, the GE runs 330cc top-feed high impedance Denso-style injectors and uses a Karman Vortex air-metering sensor to read how much air volume is being injested. The GTE runs 540cc side-feed low impedance injectors (though uses a resistor pak to raise the impedance for the ECU's sake)... measured through a hotwire MAF sensor. The GE's airflow restriction is around 450hp from the stock AFM and the GTE is around 650-700hp depending on several factors.

-The heads are slightly different. Some say the GE flows better than the GTE, though no concrete numbers have come from a flowbench to prove it. The GTE motor has larger intake ports on the head whereas the GE has larger exhaust ports on the head. You make your own decisions.

-The exhaust manifold and intake manifolds port spacing and studs are completely different and will not work with one another unless some machining is involved with the manifolds themselves. There are people who have successfully grafted the upper part of the GTE intake manifold onto the lower part of the GE manifold.

-The GE motor runs a distributor-based ignition system with spark plug wires and a single coil. The GTE runs coil-on-plug ignition with individual coils for every plug. The distributor gets in the way somestimes of the turbo intake pipe

These are just motor differences, there are many little others such as oil squirters, oil feed/return lines, transmissions, etc.

Now onto Similarities:

Both the GE and GTE bottom ends are VERY strong. The only difference being the pistons themselves. Thats right, the rods and crankshaft are the SAME parts!!! The 2jz motor itself was DESIGNED to be turbocharged from the beginning and is built VERY strongly from the factory. No one yet knows the limits of a GE setup, though there are several 1000whp setups on the GTE with the stock bottom-end. Dave H uses a GE motor and ran a 9sec 1/4 mile time with the stock GE block ( a spare 220k mile motor to be specific!)

All in all, it is very doubtful that you will need to build your motor when designing a NA-T setup unless you're gunning for ridiculous amounts of power. The stock cams are roughly the SAME.

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08-04-2005, 04:08 AM #2

Bean

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Designing a Turbokit for the 2JZ-GE

There are a few things to keep in mind when deciding what you want to do. The biggest decision RIGHT NOW is whether you want to build a DIY kit or order a pre-built one from a reputable shop.

Going the DIY

is very rewarding and you will learn more about your engine than you thought possible. I personally went this route TWICE on my first two setups on my SC300. But I had the typical problems.

-The Price is a good bit cheaper. Face it, you can source your own parts off ebay, used items off of SupraForums and Clublexus classifieds, etc and probably build a kit for much cheaper IF you get everything. This isnt always the case

-The installation is a bit more difficult since you're putting together parts that werent necessarily designed for one another and may require some fabrication

-Used parts dont last as long and a lot of times they just arent as good of a quality as new stuff is (new stuff is ALWAYS coming out for the GE car nowadays).

Buying a Kit

is much simpler and easier to follow. You will still learn a lot about your motor if you install your kit yourself and still have the oppurtunity to purchase some used parts if you can find good deals, etc. Buying a kit you KNOW that it will work correctly if its a reputable shop such as BoostLogic, Sound Performance, PHR, Dave H, etc. People have already done them, posted their results and their problems so you can be ready for it when its your turn. You can purchase a turbo kit, fuel kit, aem kit, and be done with it and have a monster on your hands. They literally come with everything you need... being from the other side, I can tell you that this is an immense PLUS. It doesnt quite sound like it... but having done it twice, this is the way I will do it a 3rd time.

Parts in a Typical Basic NA-T kit (note this is not everything you need)

Turbo manifold (there are log and header types, headers flow for more power, but spool slower)

Wastegate (bigger you go, the more control you have and less chances for spikes and creep)

Downpipe (connects to your exhaust)

Intake pipe (connects from your turbo inlet to your filter or AFM)

Oil feed and drain lines (feed and drain oil to/from the turbo)

Turbocharger (large varieties of these, this is what makes boost!)

In the basic kit you usually run directly off the wastegate spring. Most kits keep you running on the stock compression levels (10:1 remember?) in the first "stage" or two, until you get serious about power anyways. This results in quicker spoolup and better off-boost response but you cannot run as much boost without risking serious damage to your motor.

-10:1 compression limits you to around 7-8psi without fiddling with your ignition timing (stock timing has a big "spike" of advance around 4000-4500rpms that will cause detonation if running more than 8-9psi and the base timing is not retarded 3-4 degrees)

-stock injectors will also limit you powerwise. I've seen several setups make OVER 400whp on the stock fuel setup (upgraded fuel pump) but its still best to upgrade them (and with a way to control them too -- SAFC, emanage, MAP ECU, AEM standalone, etc)... generally I wouldnt go over 350whp with the stock 330s.

-intercooler options, some kits come with some dont, most of the lower-priced ones dont and you are left to fend for yourself in the intercooler arena... you NEED one to run more than 5 or 6psi reliably

What you REALLY need for a well balanced kit

-strong turbo manifold, either a strong cast unit or a strong (IE 321 Stainless Steel) tubular header manifold... Dave H's manifold runs via Weld Els and it is VERY strong and beefy. His manifold is more of a hybrid, not really a log and not really a header.

-turbocharger to suit your powerband preferences (a later discussion perhaps?). Most people go with a T04E or PTE style turbo that makes around 400whp at 10psi of boost.

EDIT: Thanks for suprapunk pointing out something: If you are building your own kit: Ensure that your exhaust turbine lines up with your manifold Like make sure its a T4 hotside and a T4 flange on the manifold, and make sure you have the correct hotside outlet as well to mate to your downpipe (v-band, on-center, etc)

-35mm wastegate, Tial or HKS brands are good stuff. Many kits are running 38 and 40mm gates, which is fine, they cost more. Depending on how much power you'll be making with your turbo, you need to decide what to run unless a kit-maker already picks one.

-fuel and a method of controlling that fuel to supply enough for your power needs. On more basic setups I recommend the Emanage blue. Affordable and can tune your car very nicely. Most basic kits can make good power with MKIII Supra Turbo injectors. They are also top feed (but low impedance, need resistor box or inline resistors) and denso style but flow 440cc instead of 330. The Lexus V8 AFM modification is affordable and can make the 440s easily tunable with a simple fuel controller.

-a FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER. Do it once, do it right. The sidemount jobs cannot compare with the Front mounts other than being harder to see. You can pick up good quality units off ebay for under $300 these days.

-A 3 inch downpipe and 3" exhaust system! At least 3 inches all the way back if you can. Turbos need FLOW, give them a bigger exhaust and they will spool faster and give you MORE POWER.

-GOOD spark plugs and good conditioned ignition system (get a new rotor and cap for your distributor pronto!). NGK 3330s and NGK 6097s are both great plugs, they are pregapped at .031 which is perfect for turbo applications under 19-20psi of boost

-Oil feed/drain lines properly sized. Typical setup is -3 or -4 AN feed with a -10 (no smaller) drain line. Garret turbos require much less oil than most people think; and dumping high pressure (60psi+) oil into it and then having a small return line blows the oil seals on the turbo very quickly. You want NO flow resistance on the return line. You can do this by having a BIG return line like a -10 or use a oil-line restrictor (can pick them up at atpturbo.com). IF you buy a premade kit that comes with a oil-line kit then don't fret, its already been tested and setup with the turbo you'll be running from the kit.

Keep in MIND!!! That all of this is how to get power reliably out of the MOTOR. The transmission and the rear end are completely different subjects. Your stock clutch WILL NOT withstand more than 300whp and last for very long. Your stock transmission WILL NOT WITHSTAND more than 400-450whp for very long and driven hard (your mileage may vary).

Autos are very different from the stock 5-speeds. Do your research on driveline modifications!

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08-04-2005, 04:37 AM #3

Bean

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Bigger Power!

Keep in MIND!!! That all of this is how to get power reliably out of the MOTOR. The transmission and the rear end are completely different subjects. Your stock clutch WILL NOT withstand more than 300whp and last for very long. Your stock transmission WILL NOT WITHSTAND more than 400-450whp for very long and driven hard (your mileage may vary).

Autos are very different from the stock 5-speeds. Do your research on driveline modifications!

In the bigger power arena, you need to bypass several obstacles. One most notably being the stock ECU with regards to fuel metering. There are only so many bandaids you can run before you run out of airflow (even with the V8 AFM). This means by going to speed density!

Speed density is a completely different way of measuring the air intake in the engine vs the mass-air system used in the stock GE.

The stock GE system uses Karman Vortex as its way of measuring air. If you've ever taken apart your intake and see the sensor itself, you'll see a waffle-style (or honeycomb) front on it. What this does it cause small vortexes to form after the air enters the system. The more air that enters, the more vortexes (and the larger they get). The quantity and amplitude of these vortexes is measured by a small speaker inside the housing. You can see it if you look carefully. Do not damage the honeycomb up front, you will cause the sensor to read bad.

Speed density uses two seperate sensors to measure how much air has entered the system.

-The first sensor is a pressure sensor that senses how much pressure or vacuum is in the intake system. This is called the "MAP sensor" MAP is short for "manifold absolute pressure". By absolute, this means TOTAL pressure including atmospheric pressure (which is 1 BAR at sea level) by the way. If someone has a 3 bar map sensor, it means it can read 29.4psi of pressure ABOVE atmospheric (14.7psi = 1 BAR). Obviously, this is a little sensor, and causes no intake restrictions of ANY sort.

-The second sensor is an air temperature sensor. When air cools, it becomes more dense, with more oxygen molecules. This sensor allows the ECU to compensate with more fuel to keep a safe mixture when the temperature rises or drops. It is called an IAT sensor - or "intake air temperature" sensor. This sensor also causes no restriction.

Almost all aftermarket ECU solutions are Speed Density (also called MAP-based) and this includes the AEM ECU. It can run via AFM, but its a waste not to utilize the extra flow and control with MAP. The "MAP ECU" is a piggyback solution for the stock ECU. Like the older VPC, it translates a MAP-based signal into an AFM signal that the ECU can use (and isnt any the wiser). Both the MAP ECU and AEM allow you to run MUCH larger injectors.

Ok I'm running a speed density system, I am cool!

Not so fast! You need BIG fuel injectors for that too. Luckily, the stock fuel rail is a top-feed unit, has an FPR plug on it that is right around 1/4" NPT in size, and has a good enough internal diameter to flow enough fuel for over 700whp. Boost Logic, SP, Titan, etc now offer NA-T fuel systems that either use the stock rail or replace the whole thing completely. These systems are generally customizable to the size injectors you want and most use TWIN Walbro Fuel pumps. Nice eh?

After that, you will already need to be running a GOOD turbo header... the cast jobs work well in the low-power arena, but with the big boys its all about FLOW.... and cast units DONT On the header setups, you will already be using a larger wastegate (40mm+) and at least a 3" downpipe. A lot of companies will have a 4" downpipe and midpipe combo to upgrade to if you're going to be making big power (dont really need that unless you're hitting over 700-750hp).

A FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER!!! I'd laugh if someone tried this with a stock sidemount

A turbo that can flow the amount of air you want. Do some research, because there is a HUGE turbo selection out there and new ones are coming out all the time that offer better and faster spool, more flow and power, and more extras ( like jet sounds from the ported shroud housings hehehe )

At this point you MUST be running a thicker headgasket. Why? Because you cannot make over 400-450whp reliably with the stock 10:1 compression. Stock SupraTTs come with 8.5:1 compression and can run lots of boost from the factory. YOU can get to this point by running a thicker headgasket. Your stock gasket is very thin... like .2mm vs the GTE gasket which is 1.6. Do not worry about squish-volume problems too much, since the primary source of compression drop on the 2jz-gte is achieved by running a much thicker headgasket. 2.5mm will get you to 8.5:1 compression.

The only problem left is ignition, which can be solved by running lower gap on your plugs and an HKS DLI. It boosts the ignition signal and will allow you to still make spark at higher boost when it would normally be "blown out" from the excessive pressure.

After this point, you can start tuning, running racegas and making BIG power. The stock GE intake manifold (EGR delete please!) can flow over 800-850hp and there's no point in upgrading to a high-flow unit (such as the DaveH unit) until you eclipse this point.

There are lots of little things this guide didnt have for big power, which is detailed tuning instructions (get it tuned by a professional if you dont know what you're doing!), and small tidbits you should already know. (ie Beaded intercooler pipes, new gaskets for all hardware, etc)

Please understand that this is just a basic blow by blow of how to obtain power from this motor. If you can understand this so far, then congradulations, you can probably handle the whole deal just fine.

Remember that you can always just purchase a kit from a reputable manufacturer and it will come with everything you need.

Give one of the good shops a call and tell them exactly what kind of power you want with what kind of powerband (nothing too unrealistic here k?) and they will give you an invoice or statement telling you exactly what you need. They've answered these questions many times.

Everyone be sure to scroll all the way down. This is a very long post