sanstoetter

My outer door handle is cracked, and I've been looking for a used replacement for my 99'. So far I've come across plenty for the 95'-97', but none for the 98'-00'. Visually they look the same, but I figure internally they may have revised a few small parts. Does anyone know if an earlier version could be retrofitted, or if the handle pull is interchangeable?

If the light is on, and the button is non-responsive (putting in gear before idling for the 30 seconds)... I can light up the tires with ease. If I let the car idle long enough at start up prior to putting it in gear... with the VSC OFF I can light up the tires, but otherwise Traction Control functions fine.

The VSC button has no affect until the VSC light cuts off while idling prior to going in gear. Therefore if I put the car in gear before the light turns off... the button doesn't do anything. If I let the car idle long enough for the VSC light to go off... the button works correctly.

Id suggest pulling the OCV valves, and cleaning them with brake cleaner/tooth brush.

Nope, once the light is on the button has no affect.

I have a 99' LS400 that I love, but since purchase the "VSC Light" has come on with every start-up. I purchased the car with a deep discount knowing it had a VVT code that I fixed (Cleaned OCV's), and I assumed the VSC light was on due to the CEL. The VSC light goes off after I start the car, and wait 30 seconds before putting the car in gear. If I put the car into reverse/drive while the light is on... it'll stay on the remainder of the trip. The CEL stays off, and I cannot pull any codes. Is there a way to diagnose the what's tripping the VSC light, or is this a known issue?

Price drop to $3300.00

**SOLD**

I've had my 94' LS400 for a few years, and I have a few minor annoyances. 1. The car creaks when I come to a stop, and the steering sometimes makes popping noises in parking lots. What suspension parts should I look at first? 2. My power steering is leaking into the intake manifold, and smokes like a freight train most mornings. Can I plug the vacuum line, and if I can... which vacuum line is it from the top? 3. The rear end has a thud when I shift from Drive to Reverse, or when going over speed bumps. Any places to start looking? 4. I'm missing the trim right in front of the drivers rear wheel well, and I need to source the parts. Also anyone know what the color codes are for my car? 5. My drivers seat is crooked, and the seat won't recline straight. Do I need to find a replacement seat, is it something repairable, or do I need to find a specific part? I'll be putting the car on jack stands this weekend, but I'd like to have a few places to start. I need to get the car in for an alignment, and I know that before that I'll need to replace a few bushings/arms/ball joints. Thanks! Steven

The other day I noticed a piece of trim broke off, and my best guess is that a piece of loose asphalt was thrown from the rear tire into it. My question is first off what is the correct term for this trim piece. Second off does anyone know where I could buy another? I know I can find one at a upullit junkyard, but Id rather order a replacement thats correct body color.

I looked for a label without any success, but I did end up getting the A/C working correctly. I replaced the compressor, pulled a vacuum, used ~3.5 12oz cans of R-134, and a small can of UV dye to diagnose if I have any leaks.

I plan to, but I'd like to buy roughly the right amount of refrigerant rather than have to return later on.

I have experience working on other vehicles AC, and I know that I do not have a leak as it's the pressure has not dropped. I also have the tools to pull a vacuum before refilling, but I do not have an FSM or anything detailing the capacity of the AC system. I'm just looking for specific details related to this car.

After reading a bit more today I read that the 21 was due to low light, and after rechecking this morning its gone. To replace the compressor Im asumming that I'll need to empty the R134, replace the compressor, pull a vacuum, and refill the R134... anything I'm missing? How much refridgerant, oil, etc... will I need to fill it back up?

After reading your post I found the write up on lexls.com, and checked my code... ended up with a beeping 21 and 23 code. I do not see code 23 as a possibility on the tutorial... anyone know what this means? I see that the code 21 reads "Open or short in solar sensor circuit", but I've pulled the codes multiple times, and that's only come up the once. What does that mean, and where would I find the solar sensor circuit?

My 200k 94' LS400 has been giving me a few issues over the past year, and I'm finally getting around to working on them. About a week after purchasing the car (11/01/2009) my AC gave out on me. When the AC would cut on the car felt like it lost power, and 5-10 seconds after that the AC light would start blinking and the power would come back immediately. I bought an R134 refill with a gauge, and when I hooked it up the pressure seemed right so I left it alone. I kinda assumed that the compressor locked up, but I wanted to know if there would be a good way to diagnose before just replacing it. I'm also having issues with a vibration coming in about 65-75mph, that goes in/out staying at a steady speed. This issue has been there from the beginning, and since Ive had the tires balanced, and eventually had new tires mounted/balanced. While they were being balanced I looked for any bends/flat spots in the rims without finding any. You can feel the vibration in the steering wheels, and seats... doesn't seem to be in only the front or rear wheels. I'm wondering if these cars have a center support on the driveshaft, or if they have a replaceable U-joint? While I'm working on it this weekend I'd like to at least diagnose that issue as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steven **EDIT** I forgot to mention that the the AC light stays solid now, but there's no difference in power, and no cold air. This happened randomly one day a few weeks later, and I have no idea why.

I had the same problem with my 94', and I fixed the problem by replacing the plugs/wires.

I'll probably replace that while I'm working on the car, but I doubt it's a vibration from that. The car shudders noticeably, and it reminds me of a trans. trying to search for a gear. It also feels the same with O/D on and off at 55, and comes and goes kind of randomly. On steeper hills I've noticed it happening every time if I keep the car running a steady 45mph, and it happens every few seconds.

I have a 94' LS400 w/ 190,000 miless, and since I've owned the car its been flawless. Lately the car seems to stutter between speeds of 50-70mph, or under load around 45mph. The car seems to free rev smoothly, and pulls smooth if I run it WOT, so it seems like a partial throttle issue. With that in mind it seems like either a transmission issue, or maybe the TPS sensor on the fritz. My plan is to change out the trans. fluid and strainer soon, but I wanted to check on here first to see if anyones had this issue before... if so what was the underlying problem?

Well my idle drops down like normal after driving a bit, and the temp. gauge points just a little up from the middle. I do notice that the air coming from the heater blows cold while I'm stopped, but gets warmer if I'm cruising around... its immediately cold though when I stop. Is the heater control valve operated by vacuum somehow? I'll go ahead and check the O2 sensor, but other than codes how do you check? I've never worried to much about testing since I can buy new ones at $15 for my other car.

Well my thoughts are that the wasted gas would go up exponentially with throttle while the car was in open loop, but if not I ill be warming the car up a bit less in the mornings. It just seems odd that I can smell so much fuel out the exhaust on start up. I figured open loop was open loop, and that 30 degrees vs. 50 degrees wouldn't change how much fuel to throw in. I just assumed the time for the motor to warm up would be slightly prolonged. My other car lost <1 mpg in the past month with the cold, and I assumed the Lexus to do the same.

I have a 1994 LS400, and the gas mileage has dropped 3mpg in the last month. I know starting up a car it runs in open loop which is very rich, and that is lengthened in the winter months, but 3mpg seems worse than any other vehicle I've ever owned. I've been letting the car warm up for ~5 minutes every morning so that its just running rich at idle instead of driving to rich. My cars CEL is not lit up, and I'm not familiar enough with my car yet to know if it'll throw a code w/out turning the light on. Originally I've been getting 21.7 mpg mixed driving, and in the past couple fill ups I've averaged 18.x. I've already checked my air filter, and tire pressures which are both fine. Any suggestions on what to check next, or what I can do to help with the cold weather gas mileage?

Well it looks like I need a compressor... Anyone know of a good reman. unit, or does everyone go oem? I had my girlfriend turn the a/c on while I had the r134 hooked up, but as soon as she turned it on I heard some squeeling/grinding, and started smelling smoke.

Well I guess I'll just go grab a can of refrigerant with a gauge, and check the low pressure port... if it's not low anything else other than the compressor that it could be?

I have a 94' LS400 with about 188,000 miles, and my A/C is giving me some trouble. I bought the car about 2 months ago, and the problem started about 3 weeks in, and up till that point the A/C worked flawlessly. I'm more of an engine/suspension mechanic, never had a car that needed A/c work up to this point (most were performance oriented w/out A/C), and I have no idea how to diagnose the issue. The only thing that I can say for sure is that when I cut it on the light stays constant, and I can for sure feel the compressor kick on. Then ~5-10 sec. later the compressor clutch lets go, and the light blinks. If anyone has any insight on what I should check, or can tell me how to check if I need to just refill the R134. I know that the compressor is a common problem, but I'd rather not replace that if I don't know 100% its the problem considering it'll be at least $500 to replace that.