98 Es300 Drivers Side Window Problem

[lkn4trouble]

So I have a problem with the drivers window, you can hear the motor turning but doesn't operate the window so I'm assuming the regulator is bad. When looking online to buy one all I can find is the rear door regulators. My question is are the front and rears the same as long as it's drivers side or passenger side.

Also if someone can point me to a writeup with pics on how to replace that would be great.

Thanks

[pj8708]

So I have a problem with the drivers window, you can hear the motor turning but doesn't operate the window so I'm assuming the regulator is bad. When looking online to buy one all I can find is the rear door regulators. My question is are the front and rears the same as long as it's drivers side or passenger side.

Also if someone can point me to a writeup with pics on how to replace that would be great.

Thanks

Before you order the regulator, take a look at this. This thread is from a search of or data base.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/68291-98-lexus-es300-driver-side-window-problem/

[gbhrps]

Tod,

In the antique and modern auto restoration shop that I worked off and on in for years we've changed a pile of window mechanisms and motors. Some assemblies have to be replaced as a unit (motor and regulator), and others the motor can be separated from the mechanism by unbolting or drilling out the rivets that hold the two together.

Having never owned a 98 ES, I can't say what you'll find in there, but I suspect that a Camry unit for the same door and generation may well fit, will be easier to find in a wrecking yard, and will be cheaper to buy. Get yours out first, so you'll know what to look for.

The hint that I can give you to make the job easiest, is to separate the glass from the lift mechanism. Some glass is clamped onto the rail of the lift mechanism, and two bolts need only to be unbolted to release it for removal. Other manufacturers have two bolts that go through holes in the glass and need to be removed. The glass is then rotated slightly to drop the front leading edge out of the channel the glass slides up and down in. It can then be wiggled and moved around until the glass is out of the rear channel and can be lifted out of the door frame.

The key is to be able to lower the glass to a level where you can get to both of those glass clamps or through the glass bolts at once. There will be a point when the glass is lowered where cutouts in the inner door sheet metal will allow you to get at both bolts. Obviously the interior door panel and weather shield must be already removed.

Once the glass is out of the way, all that remains is to unbolt or remove the rivets holding the motor and mechanism, and the front and rear glass channels in some cases, and do the replacement game. They can be a bit** to get out through the inner door openings until you twist/tilt/ open or close the mechanism in different ways. Good Luck!

[lkn4trouble]

So I have a problem with the drivers window, you can hear the motor turning but doesn't operate the window so I'm assuming the regulator is bad. When looking online to buy one all I can find is the rear door regulators. My question is are the front and rears the same as long as it's drivers side or passenger side.

Also if someone can point me to a writeup with pics on how to replace that would be great.

Thanks

Before you order the regulator, take a look at this. This thread is from a search of or data base.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/68291-98-lexus-es300-driver-side-window-problem/

Tod,

In the antique and modern auto restoration shop that I worked off and on in for years we've changed a pile of window mechanisms and motors. Some assemblies have to be replaced as a unit (motor and regulator), and others the motor can be separated from the mechanism by unbolting or drilling out the rivets that hold the two together.

Having never owned a 98 ES, I can't say what you'll find in there, but I suspect that a Camry unit for the same door and generation may well fit, will be easier to find in a wrecking yard, and will be cheaper to buy. Get yours out first, so you'll know what to look for.

The hint that I can give you to make the job easiest, is to separate the glass from the lift mechanism. Some glass is clamped onto the rail of the lift mechanism, and two bolts need only to be unbolted to release it for removal. Other manufacturers have two bolts that go through holes in the glass and need to be removed. The glass is then rotated slightly to drop the front leading edge out of the channel the glass slides up and down in. It can then be wiggled and moved around until the glass is out of the rear channel and can be lifted out of the door frame.

The key is to be able to lower the glass to a level where you can get to both of those glass clamps or through the glass bolts at once. There will be a point when the glass is lowered where cutouts in the inner door sheet metal will allow you to get at both bolts. Obviously the interior door panel and weather shield must be already removed.

Once the glass is out of the way, all that remains is to unbolt or remove the rivets holding the motor and mechanism, and the front and rear glass channels in some cases, and do the replacement game. They can be a bit** to get out through the inner door openings until you twist/tilt/ open or close the mechanism in different ways. Good Luck!

Thanks guys, I found that the front is different and that both front doors are a dealer only part and cannot be found as aftermarket for the 98 thru 01.....Of course dealer price is astronomical but I was able to find one on Fleebay at 1/3 the cost of the dealer. It is a broken cable.

[pj8708]

Excellent write up "gbhrps"!!! Thanks for taking the time to be so thorough and educational.

Paul

[lkn4trouble]

Yes. Thanks to all for the help, One more question........do I need to clock the motor before I install the regulator or can I just throw it on? Sorry for not asking all my *BLEEP* in one post :D

[michaelmichael]

I'm not sure what you mean by clocking the motor, but I made a mistake that I hope you can learn from. I have a 99 es300 and just the other day the regulator wire snapped. I got the replacement part the next day. I tested the motor first to make sure it was still working. Install was basically the reverse of the pulling it out.

After I installed it, I noticed that when I close the window using the auto-up, it bounces back down (halfway) when it reaches the top. It has something to do with the limit switch on the motor. I understand its a safety precaution in case there is something obstructing the path of the window when it closes. Maybe someone else can confirm, but when you install the regulator make sure the window is set just below half way. Apparently, there is also a mark on the regulator spool and motor that should match up. I'm thinking I have to take my door apart again tomorrow to adjust this. Any advice would be appreciated, but ink4trouble, I just thought you should look out for this when you do your install and save yourself some time.

Oops, I just noticed that your post was from July. Hope your window is working by now.

[lkn4trouble]

I'm not sure what you mean by clocking the motor, but I made a mistake that I hope you can learn from. I have a 99 es300 and just the other day the regulator wire snapped. I got the replacement part the next day. I tested the motor first to make sure it was still working. Install was basically the reverse of the pulling it out.

After I installed it, I noticed that when I close the window using the auto-up, it bounces back down (halfway) when it reaches the top. It has something to do with the limit switch on the motor. I understand its a safety precaution in case there is something obstructing the path of the window when it closes. Maybe someone else can confirm, but when you install the regulator make sure the window is set just below half way. Apparently, there is also a mark on the regulator spool and motor that should match up. I'm thinking I have to take my door apart again tomorrow to adjust this. Any advice would be appreciated, but ink4trouble, I just thought you should look out for this when you do your install and save yourself some time.

Oops, I just noticed that your post was from July. Hope your window is working by now.

Well thank you, finally someone that knows what I was talking about, the new regulator had been tie wrapped and the tag indicated that it was in the installation position, I then took a sharpie and added location marks on the sprocket and regulator itself, when it no problem, the toughest part of the entire job was adjusting the window location and the bump stops. I did this yesterday.

Thanks for the post Michael