igbeserk Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 All right been having some issues with my tranny on my 95 ES300. Last November I had to replace the tranny because it was having shifting issues took it to a tranny specialist and they told me my 4th gear was about done. and I noticed that like O/D wouldn't work and what not. Well With this newer tranny I've had some shifting issues before but that was due to the motor mount breaking or coming loose. And in July two seals broke in the tranny and it wouldn't stop leaking fluid but that was about 2 weeks or so ago, I've checked every day and no more leaks it seems. But I am getting some slight shifting issues around 1st gear i believe or right about when i'm going to get into first gear. I don't know if it could be a loose mount i don't think so I had the mechanic take a look he said it looked fine. Also when i'm driving I would say about 5 or so mins later doesn't always happen but happens frequently. I'll hear a whining noise. kind of like the engine is revving but more faint and higher pitched even when the car is on and parked or idling. Also when i change gears, from park to d or reverse and such i can hear it from underneath the car. just sounds loud when it's changing the gear and locking in. I doubt it's supposed to be that loud. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Just trying to make this car last, put in so much time money and effort. bleh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexis lexus Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 How fast is it idling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igbeserk Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 hmm it idles between 1 and 2 i believe. usually mid 1's or close to 2 depending. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexis lexus Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 hmm it idles between 1 and 2 i believe. usually mid 1's or close to 2 depending. This is the source of your problem. Idle should be around 600-800 rpms (below the one). So with your high idle, when you drop it into gear from park or neutral it'll give a loud clunk. Not too healthy for the tranny in the long run. First ? is the check engine light on? If it is take it to Autozone and get them to read it (free) and you find why it's fast idling. If it isn't then I'm not sure. May be problems with the throttle position switch, or some other sensor that regulates idle. lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igbeserk Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 hmm it idles between 1 and 2 i believe. usually mid 1's or close to 2 depending. This is the source of your problem. Idle should be around 600-800 rpms (below the one). So with your high idle, when you drop it into gear from park or neutral it'll give a loud clunk. Not too healthy for the tranny in the long run. First ? is the check engine light on? If it is take it to Autozone and get them to read it (free) and you find why it's fast idling. If it isn't then I'm not sure. May be problems with the throttle position switch, or some other sensor that regulates idle. lex yea initially its between 1 and 2, and after warming it up or driving it for a bit it gets below one and is between 0 - 1. yea i do have a check engine light. with two codes. the O2 sensor and the knock sensor error. replaced the knock sensor and O2 and reset the code with the obd2 and they still came back. guess i'll take it to a mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexis lexus Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 It's somewhat normal for idle to be up around 1000-1200 when warming, but higher isn't. If you replaced the knock sensor yourself, you probably don't need a mechanic, just a factory service manual to trouble shoot high idle. I searched the archives about the knock sensors (two, one for each side), as mine throws these codes, and it takes a good day or two, removing the throttle body, and upper and lower intake manifolds. And some have suggested that when the knock sensor codes are thrown, that it's really a wiring harness problem vrs a bad sensor. This is consistant with my experience of not being able to hear any knocking, and no improvement w/ premium gas. Your still left with high idle at warm up, might want to hook up your obdII (or is it obdI?), and see what temp reads at warm up, if the coolant temp sensor is sluggish this could keep the idle higher longer, and probably wouldn't throw a code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igbeserk Posted August 5, 2010 Author Share Posted August 5, 2010 it uses obdii. yea took me and my friend around 5 hours to do the whole taking apart the manifold and replacing the knock sensor in bank 1 and put it back. I also cleaned my idle air control sensor not too long ago with adjusting my throttle body since it wasn't opening all the way. yea i heard it might be a wiring issue also. but i didn't feel like tackling the knock sensor again to check was a pain the first time. all right i'll try to check the temp at warm up. i didn't know an OBDII scanner could read temps. especially since you can't have the car on when you use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexis lexus Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 I bought one of those obdII bridging units that'll connect the car to my notebook and use supplied software. Unable to read anything unless the car is running! Then can get a host of data (eg air temp, coolant temp, throttle position, o2 sensor voltage), not just codes. So did replacing the knock sensor fix the code? If it was wiring, shouldn't have. I started up my '94 this am, noted the initial idle was 1500! Didn't clunk much when I dropped it into gear, then idle dropped to 1000-1100. Maybe try new tranny fluid? Which fluid are you supposed to use for a "tranny"fusion? Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igbeserk Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 Oh i should check out one of those obdii scanners you're talking about. Replacing the knock sensor didn't fix the problem same error. So it's either the knock sensor could be bad which is doubtful or the wire that connects to it since it's only one wire and !Removed! it in grounds it i believe. same with the O2 sensor, spliced a new one and still have the error codes after resetting them so it could either be the wrong O2 or the splicing was done bad which i doubt or the wires it connects to are bad. Well the tranny has been filled with fluid a few times last month since it was leaking or lost all the fluid and had to have two seals replaced in it. The type of fluid i've been using are the DexMerc ones you can find at autozone. the ones that you can use on dexron ii, iii, iv etc cars. its being sent to the mechanic now it's been acting weird yesterday definitely had weird shifting issues and just putting it into drive it shook like crazy but last night was a pretty smooth ride all around jersey. but yea i'll have him look at the stuff we've been talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igbeserk Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 Blah driving today car was being a bit unresponsive rpms would jump but the speed wouldn't increase kept happening. I tried manually shifting gears from L, 2, D then it was working properly again. I'll take it to a shop tonight to have them look at it and the check engine light. can't take much more of this, Anything else you guys can recommend? what other things can i look into to make sure it idles lower when i first start the car. i've already cleaned the iacv sensor but that was 2 or so months back but yea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexis lexus Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 Blah driving today car was being a bit unresponsive rpms would jump but the speed wouldn't increase kept happening. I tried manually shifting gears from L, 2, D then it was working properly again. I'll take it to a shop tonight to have them look at it and the check engine light. can't take much more of this, Anything else you guys can recommend? what other things can i look into to make sure it idles lower when i first start the car. i've already cleaned the iacv sensor but that was 2 or so months back but yea. Your description of high rpms but speed not increasing sounds like a bad torque converter. Is that problem worse when you go up a hill? Overall sounds like you're gonna need some major work on the tranny. There are some tranny additives that can possibly postpone the inevitable. How much does a tranny transplant go for lately? I read somewhere that taking it out is not that difficult.... Lexis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igbeserk Posted August 17, 2010 Author Share Posted August 17, 2010 Blah driving today car was being a bit unresponsive rpms would jump but the speed wouldn't increase kept happening. I tried manually shifting gears from L, 2, D then it was working properly again. I'll take it to a shop tonight to have them look at it and the check engine light. can't take much more of this, Anything else you guys can recommend? what other things can i look into to make sure it idles lower when i first start the car. i've already cleaned the iacv sensor but that was 2 or so months back but yea. Your description of high rpms but speed not increasing sounds like a bad torque converter. Is that problem worse when you go up a hill? Overall sounds like you're gonna need some major work on the tranny. There are some tranny additives that can possibly postpone the inevitable. How much does a tranny transplant go for lately? I read somewhere that taking it out is not that difficult.... Lexis well where i live there aren't much hills. so i haven't tried it on a hill. I hope i don't need major work on the tranny i forget how much it cost me last time to do this maybe6-900 but that's because the mechanic i go to is usually cheaper with the prices other places were telling me 1200 and up. just for the part. while the 6-900 was part and labor. I added in some tranny fluid because i feel like there might be a leak still just a very slow one i check the level and it looked fine added some anyway. and drove around last night and this morning. much smoother than the past few days. so maybe that could be the issue. i won't go for another tranny transplant i've done too much to this car in a short amount of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igbeserk Posted September 7, 2010 Author Share Posted September 7, 2010 i've been taking it easy on the tranny not driving as fast like i drive fast but i let it warm up i check the fluid levels seems to be riding smoother now for at least a week which is good. i don't know if overall the tranny is bad or failing. hard for these mechanics to tell me. Anyway my mechanic recommended changing the ECU i might have a bad one and that should hopefully get rid of my knock sensor and O2 sensor light issues. Since i had replaced those earlier this year. would this be true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igbeserk Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share Posted September 10, 2010 ordered an ECM on ebay. Hopefully this resolves my problem. if it doesn't then i should be able to return it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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