killerFatty Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 How did you get the endlinks off? I just got the sway bar directly from addco and I can not find a way to get the bolt on the endlink to stop spinning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboomni Posted August 13, 2010 Author Share Posted August 13, 2010 How did you get the endlinks off? I just got the sway bar directly from addco and I can not find a way to get the bolt on the endlink to stop spinning. You put the wrench on the nut and a hex inside the stud the wrench is on. I had to heat up the bolt abit to get it loose. I believe it was a 7mm hex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboomni Posted August 17, 2010 Author Share Posted August 17, 2010 KillerFatty Did you ever get the swaybar installed?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerFatty Posted August 20, 2010 Share Posted August 20, 2010 I am still working on it. It's a 5mm hex but the bolts were so rusted (I don't think they have moved in 17 years) I stripped out the top end link studs. I am going to have to try to remove the bottom bolts on the end links and then replace both end links. Do you know of a good place to get a pair of end links cheap? BTW I also put my front strut tower bar back in and it makes a good bit of difference. Do you think the rear sway bar will not be as big of a change now that the front strut bar is in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboomni Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 what is the diameter of your rear swaybar in the car now? The Addco is 7/8ths . What is the diameter of your front bar? I really had to heat mine up to break the nuts loose. The links are pretty cheap at RockAuto.com I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerFatty Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 My rear sway bar now is about 1/4" to 3/8". It is flimsy and I can "sway" it with my hand. Needless to say I expect the addco bar to be a significant improvement. I think I'm just going to get new end links and heat and beat the lower bolts on the links until I can pull the whole bar assembly out together. How did you get heat onto those bolts without burning up brake lines and other rubber bushings? Should I use a fire blanket to protect the surrounding components? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDM Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 If you're replacing the endlinks, just cut them off. No need to unbolt them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerFatty Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 How would I get the lower portion of the links out? They bolt directly to the chassis so part of the link would still be hanging on there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboomni Posted August 26, 2010 Author Share Posted August 26, 2010 Your really having a time with that thing ,what a drag. I dont remember what it looks like under there to get the bottom of the end links out as I re used the ones in the car. I'll take a look tomorrow. If your swaybar is 1/4 to 3/8ths like mine was ,your gonna have a nice change in handling with the 7/8ths bar. Your car must lean alot like mine used to. As far as heating up the top bolts [i know it's not an issue now] use the torch on a low flame and pinpoint the areas you want to heat and take your time. You don't want an inferno! You also dont want to melt the rubber boot either. I'll look to see under my car what your up against tomorrow or another could chme in with his experience. You could go to a shop and have them remove the endlinks and bar for cheap I'm sure. When I drove my car without the stock rear bar I noticed NO difference in handling. That stock bar is worthless for sway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboomni Posted August 27, 2010 Author Share Posted August 27, 2010 I looked under the car and really don't see a problem with heating up the bolts to get lower part of the links out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDM Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 If you cut the link right against the retaining nut, it should break free. You can also cut the nut half way through to weaken it, it should then break loose or just shear off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboomni Posted September 3, 2010 Author Share Posted September 3, 2010 Ever get the thing off and the new one on there???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerFatty Posted September 7, 2010 Share Posted September 7, 2010 Not yet I need fifty bucks for new end links before I start cutting away the ones on the car. I did finally piece together a custom air intake for my lexie using little specter intake pieces though. Now it sounds like a race car it just needs to handle like one. Btw I just ran her at the local drag strip and she did a miserable 18.2. About the only good thing was she is very consistent... Consistantly slow. I don't get how she ever could do 16s with the way it launches. If i put in a higher stall torque converter it should get me into the 16s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboomni Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share Posted September 10, 2010 Interesting you mention drag racing as I plan on taking mine to the local drag strip to see what she does,just the way she sits. I'll let you know what happens! I dont plan on souping her up at all as I have other toys for that stuff. Keeping her stock. Any launch tips?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerFatty Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 You got the 97 so lets hope you get at least low 17s. The safest way to launch is off the brake at WOT. Mine stalls around 1500rpm I'm guessing yours is about the same, so you dont have to worry about spinning the wheels. If you want to be a little more agressive, and have a good tranny mount, drop it from nuetral at aroun 3k rpm. But I dont recomend doing that too much. I tried it once and the huge THUNK it made, scared me enough not to try it again. BTW do you have anything what so ever done performance wise to your LS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboomni Posted September 12, 2010 Author Share Posted September 12, 2010 QUOTE:::If you want to be a little more agressive, and have a good tranny mount, drop it from nuetral at aroun 3k rpm.QUOTE:: YIKES !! I would never do that! I'm just gonna pretend I'm at a stop light in the left lane and I need to get to the right lane for an exit in the right lane in a 1/4 mile! Just curious what to old gal will do. I will of course have the tranny in performance mode,,whatever that button means. I got a 12 second TurboOmni to pound on in the 1/4 mile and the street. I'll letya know what the old Babe does if the weather holds out!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboomni Posted September 12, 2010 Author Share Posted September 12, 2010 Should I turn off the Trac for drag racing too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerFatty Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 I would, it will only slow you down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerFatty Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I got new end links and the old ones out, but now I cant get the new bar in without it hitting the under body. Could some send me a pic of how you have the sway bar in there please? Also the new brackets dont mount up flush. Did you guys have to trim the bushing brackets? BTW this project is now in its third month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerFatty Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 i got it in there!!! After many monthes of little problems it's finally found its new resting place. I also put my front strut tower brace back in, and let me say WOW!!!!! There is not even a quarter of the body roll it had before. It still rides just as smooth as it did before, but cornors so much better. All it took to get it in was turning it the other direction and getting some longer bolts for the brackets that hold the bushings. It was totally worth all the hard work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboomni Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 i got it in there!!! After many monthes of little problems it's finally found its new resting place. I also put my front strut tower brace back in, and let me say WOW!!!!! There is not even a quarter of the body roll it had before. It still rides just as smooth as it did before, but cornors so much better. All it took to get it in was turning it the other direction and getting some longer bolts for the brackets that hold the bushings. It was totally worth all the hard work. Great Work killer! I'm glad you think it was worth the effort. I know I did and could never go back to the way it was.Hit the highway and you'll notice much more directional stability and its much less affected by cross winds from 18 wheelers etc. My next project it to put energy suspension front swaybar mounts on as mine are old and tend to squeek at times. These bushings also have a grease nipple on them. I wished the Addco ones did but thewy haven't given me any problems yet. Congrats killerfatty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerFatty Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 I didnt have any grease on hand at the lucky moment when they pooped into place, so mine are un greased and make lots of noise. I just barrowed some grease from a friend today and plan on lubing them up very well tomorrow. I have hit the highways and many a cury road since the install. I previously had the front strut tower bar in there and it made a good difference, but the combonation of the two is awesome. I need more supportive seats, and stickier tires. Without the sway bar the body roll would be a good indicater of how much further until the cornering limit was reached, but with her new handleing characteristics I find it much easier to reach the grip limit without realizing it. Like I said stickier tires I suspect would help quite a bit, and the one I have on there now have A 70K mile warrenty and with 9K on them they are right at halfway worn so I suspect another new set is in my near future and they will be much more perforfmance oriented. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboomni Posted October 14, 2010 Author Share Posted October 14, 2010 I called ADDCO when I installed the sway bar on what to lube the bushings with. They said anything. I asked them how about thick wheel bearing grease and they said that would be great. Glad you like it Killer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerFatty Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 well I did like it! The bracket you mount the end link to on the car itself snapped. When I was struggling to get that bolt off of the old end link on the car I used an angle grinder and put a bit of a gouge in that bracket. What should I do? Sorry the pictures got rotayed to the left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDM Posted October 14, 2010 Share Posted October 14, 2010 You can easily find an arm at a salvage yard. I've never seen a wrecked LS400 that didn't have the complete rear end, no one ever buys those pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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