Seeking Advice On A Fuse Or Ecu Problem.

[ericjbmark]

Been searching the web for days and cannot find anything, any help is greatly appreciated.

02’ RX300 that I rarely drive, battery went dead and I jumped it using a battery starter which I had done plenty of times. This time I didn’t clamp it right and after turning on the switch on the jumper, nothing came thru so stupid me (insanely), I proceeded to wiggle the terminal a bit and saw some sparks … car cranked and didn’t think twice and drove to the local shop to have battery switched out. Now, my engine will crank but all except the dome lights and the door ajar icon lights up… worse yet, when the dashboard light does not come up, I cannot shift (automatic) out of park and am stranded. Last time, I some how managed to start my car at the parking lot after half an hour of wiggling around with the fuses under the hood.

I’m scheduled to bring my car in this Thursday (may 7th 09) to the dealer to have it checked out, yet last night, I spent half an hour trying to start up my car without luck. Do any expert here have an advice as to what I can do (which fuse to “wiggle”, etc) that would allow me to start up my car?

Have a feeling I am going to lose an arm over this old car. I should have sold it 2 years ago when I changed job and no longer need a vehicle ...

Thanks in advance to all.

- Eric

[pauljcl]

Been searching the web for days and cannot find anything, any help is greatly appreciated.

02’ RX300 that I rarely drive, battery went dead and I jumped it using a battery starter which I had done plenty of times. This time I didn’t clamp it right and after turning on the switch on the jumper, nothing came thru so stupid me (insanely), I proceeded to wiggle the terminal a bit and saw some sparks … car cranked and didn’t think twice and drove to the local shop to have battery switched out. Now, my engine will crank but all except the dome lights and the door ajar icon lights up… worse yet, when the dashboard light does not come up, I cannot shift (automatic) out of park and am stranded. Last time, I some how managed to start my car at the parking lot after half an hour of wiggling around with the fuses under the hood.

I’m scheduled to bring my car in this Thursday (may 7th 09) to the dealer to have it checked out, yet last night, I spent half an hour trying to start up my car without luck. Do any expert here have an advice as to what I can do (which fuse to “wiggle”, etc) that would allow me to start up my car?

Have a feeling I am going to lose an arm over this old car. I should have sold it 2 years ago when I changed job and no longer need a vehicle ...

Thanks in advance to all.

I really don't have the expertise or knowledge to help you -- but have you tried disconnecting the battery, leaving it 'off' for a short while, then reconnecting it? Other posts mention that this may reset the ECU etc....

- Eric

[ericjbmark]

...

I really don't have the expertise or knowledge to help you -- but have you tried disconnecting the battery, leaving it 'off' for a short while, then reconnecting it? Other posts mention that this may reset the ECU etc....

...

Much appreciated on the quick reply. I'm a bit askance as to resetting the ECU by removing the battery for x mind/hours (haven't found the duration yet just by a quick search). I'm afraid I might wipe out an error code that the dealer would be able to pick up and make their work more difficult and my wallet lighter at the same time.

If anyone else has any suggestion, please let me know.

I promiss I will come post the answer when the dealer finally fix this and slap me with a folder full of bills.

[blk_on_blk]

I second Pauljcl's recommendation, for pulling the battery positive terminal and letting all the energy dissipate out of the system may just reset everything... and if you do lose a(some) code(s) in the ECU, then no worries if the system is reset and working properly (because it then means that code was erroneous). If it doesn't resolve your problem, then I guarantee that failure code will just pop right back up again for the tech to read with a scanner.

[ericjbmark]

I second Pauljcl's recommendation, for pulling the battery positive terminal and letting all the energy dissipate out of the system may just reset everything... and if you do lose a(some) code(s) in the ECU, then no worries if the system is reset and working properly (because it then means that code was erroneous). If it doesn't resolve your problem, then I guarantee that failure code will just pop right back up again for the tech to read with a scanner.

Thank you for this strong-handed second, I will cerrtainly give that a try tonight or tomorrow the latest. Only small problem is I live in an apartment in NYC, so I need to sit there during the duration for I am not going to have my hood poped in the underground garage and leave it unattended.

Hope I get home in time and the rain will stop pouring out there.

[blk_on_blk]

I totally understand (we had massive pouring rain here today, too). I would pull the battery, then close the hood and manually lock the vehicle. It'll sit there unnoticed for an hour or so and look totally normal, but that would give it plenty of time to defuse (some say it needs longer, but 30 minutes should be enough time... an hour will take out any doubt).

[ericjbmark]

I totally understand (we had massive pouring rain here today, too). I would pull the battery, then close the hood and manually lock the vehicle. It'll sit there unnoticed for an hour or so and look totally normal, but that would give it plenty of time to defuse (some say it needs longer, but 30 minutes should be enough time... an hour will take out any doubt).

Took positve off for an hour then hooked back in, no change ... nothing except dome and door ajar lights comes on ... and still can't shift out of park and move my car.

At this point, I am really afraid that I will not be able to start my car and move it out of the parking lot corner (It's a dead corner, tow trucks can't even get in)...

[ericjbmark]

I totally understand (we had massive pouring rain here today, too). I would pull the battery, then close the hood and manually lock the vehicle. It'll sit there unnoticed for an hour or so and look totally normal, but that would give it plenty of time to defuse (some say it needs longer, but 30 minutes should be enough time... an hour will take out any doubt).

Took positve off for an hour then hooked back in, no change ... nothing except dome and door ajar lights comes on ... and still can't shift out of park and move my car.

At this point, I am really afraid that I will not be able to start my car and move it out of the parking lot corner (It's a dead corner, tow trucks can't even get in)...

Another hour of google and a little bit of luck yielded a slight fortunate turn of event. Yup, some might have guessed it, I found the manual release button under that impossible to ply open plastic tap and I was able to manually release the interlock and move! Phew. Just ran a meter on my battery and is registering 11.62Volt … since I am a bit askance as to whether my alternator is charging my battery for the computer might be fried, I did not take my car out for a test drive. Since I’m sans lights except high beam, and it's raining really hard out and the time is 1am, probably a good idea, too. :)

What I gathered from research is that since my lights are not working, PARTICULARLY the break light, ergo I cannot shift out of park. When I press on the break, I know the solenoid did not fire for I did not hear a click from the shift interlock release.

Well, at least I can now drive to the dealer to get it fixed! Now, I just need to print out a big label and plaster it on the back of my car "LIGHTS NOT WORKING. I HOPE YOU STILL REMEMBER YOUR HAND SIGNALS FROM DRIVER'S ED!"

[ericjbmark]

I totally understand (we had massive pouring rain here today, too). I would pull the battery, then close the hood and manually lock the vehicle. It'll sit there unnoticed for an hour or so and look totally normal, but that would give it plenty of time to defuse (some say it needs longer, but 30 minutes should be enough time... an hour will take out any doubt).

Took positve off for an hour then hooked back in, no change ... nothing except dome and door ajar lights comes on ... and still can't shift out of park and move my car.

At this point, I am really afraid that I will not be able to start my car and move it out of the parking lot corner (It's a dead corner, tow trucks can't even get in)...

Another hour of google and a little bit of luck yielded a slight fortunate turn of event. Yup, some might have guessed it, I found the manual release button under that impossible to ply open plastic tap and I was able to manually release the interlock and move! Phew. Just ran a meter on my battery and is registering 11.62Volt … since I am a bit askance as to whether my alternator is charging my battery for the computer might be fried, I did not take my car out for a test drive. Since I’m sans lights except high beam, and it's raining really hard out and the time is 1am, probably a good idea, too. :)

What I gathered from research is that since my lights are not working, PARTICULARLY the break light, ergo I cannot shift out of park. When I press on the break, I know the solenoid did not fire for I did not hear a click from the shift interlock release.

Well, at least I can now drive to the dealer to get it fixed! Now, I just need to print out a big label and plaster it on the back of my car "LIGHTS NOT WORKING. I HOPE YOU STILL REMEMBER YOUR HAND SIGNALS FROM DRIVER'S ED!"

Dropped car off on Thursday and signed off on 2 hr for inspection ($129 per hr). They call me back on Monday and said they found the problem, a blown 140 amp fuse. Yeah, he said 140 and I’m a bit confuse … didn’t know fuse run that high because the highest I saw was 40 in the fuse box.

So there! One little fuse, all these problem. The dealer even said they are only charging one hour. Granted, I know how easy this could be for them – plug the scanner in and replace one fuse.

Guess I am paying 200 bucks for a fuse, a full electrical diag, and a car wash!

Thanks for all the help guys!

[pauljcl]

I totally understand (we had massive pouring rain here today, too). I would pull the battery, then close the hood and manually lock the vehicle. It'll sit there unnoticed for an hour or so and look totally normal, but that would give it plenty of time to defuse (some say it needs longer, but 30 minutes should be enough time... an hour will take out any doubt).

Took positve off for an hour then hooked back in, no change ... nothing except dome and door ajar lights comes on ... and still can't shift out of park and move my car.

At this point, I am really afraid that I will not be able to start my car and move it out of the parking lot corner (It's a dead corner, tow trucks can't even get in)...

Another hour of google and a little bit of luck yielded a slight fortunate turn of event. Yup, some might have guessed it, I found the manual release button under that impossible to ply open plastic tap and I was able to manually release the interlock and move! Phew. Just ran a meter on my battery and is registering 11.62Volt … since I am a bit askance as to whether my alternator is charging my battery for the computer might be fried, I did not take my car out for a test drive. Since I’m sans lights except high beam, and it's raining really hard out and the time is 1am, probably a good idea, too. :)

What I gathered from research is that since my lights are not working, PARTICULARLY the break light, ergo I cannot shift out of park. When I press on the break, I know the solenoid did not fire for I did not hear a click from the shift interlock release.

Well, at least I can now drive to the dealer to get it fixed! Now, I just need to print out a big label and plaster it on the back of my car "LIGHTS NOT WORKING. I HOPE YOU STILL REMEMBER YOUR HAND SIGNALS FROM DRIVER'S ED!"

Dropped car off on Thursday and signed off on 2 hr for inspection ($129 per hr). They call me back on Monday and said they found the problem, a blown 140 amp fuse. Yeah, he said 140 and I’m a bit confuse … didn’t know fuse run that high because the highest I saw was 40 in the fuse box.

So there! One little fuse, all these problem. The dealer even said they are only charging one hour. Granted, I know how easy this could be for them – plug the scanner in and replace one fuse.

Guess I am paying 200 bucks for a fuse, a full electrical diag, and a car wash!

Thanks for all the help guys!

I'm really pleased for you that the problem is resolved, and - yes - $200 or one-hour's labor cost is a lot but how many hours of your own time and effort have you saved? All in all, I would call this good news. Certainly better than facing the cost of a new ECU etc... Thank you for letting us know. I have a 99RX300 and if it does weird stuff I'll look for the 140 AMP (!!!!) fuse, first.