w140amg Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 Which is the correct part to buy for a 1995 LS400? 1 and also 2 OR two #3s? 1) Ignition coil, ls400, sc400, w/bracket and cord, right 95-97 $92.36 $73.89 2) Ignition coil, ls400, sc400, w/bracket and cord, left 95-97 $165.04 $132.03 3) Ignition coil, ls400, sc400, coil only 95-97 $91.87 $73.50 PARTS to order: timing belt 2 idler pulleys for timing belt Water pump thermostat Transmission filter distributor rotor distributor cap crankshaft seal cam seal (2) air filter drive belt cabin air filter spark plug wire kit Denso 8 spark plugs new gas cap ($11 for gas cap seal, but $17 for entire new gas cap) 3 gallons of coolant trans fluid 12 qt Toyota Type 4 rear gear fluid Mobil 1 75W90. new battery Anything else I should replace for maintenance?? thanks! Jae Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marklouis Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 your not kiddin around with the tune up! how many miles on your 95 LS? did you just purchase it? good question on the ignition coils, thats the way i see them on carson-toyota site too. i would have the coils tested before i replaced them all. mine tested out good, so i just replaced the plugs and wires. my old wires resistance were nowhere near the scale. since it seems your tax return is being put to good use - :) - check your Engine and Transmission mounts too, with the Transmission mount being #1 to do. you may already have, but they are fairly cheap and easy to fix - with everything you listed im guessing your going for that glass-smooth ride. if you are doubting the type of fluid that is currently in your transmission - it's good to replace it with the recommended toyota type in there - i need to do this also. someone else should chime in on the coils - im not going to guess at it since i didnt have to order mine. Best of luck! -ya got a lot of wrenching ahead of you!- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w140amg Posted February 27, 2009 Author Share Posted February 27, 2009 I bought it on february 15, 2009 and it had 117K miles on it. The first owner had it from 1995 to 1998. The next owner bought it certified pre-owned in July 98 and sold it to me in 2009. It had new tires on it (but only H rated) Bridgestone potenza Grid. It appears that the previous owner did not do any maintenance work on it (other than oil changes, I assume). as soon as I bought it, I changed the oil with toyota oil filter and synthetic fluid. There are no leaks under the hood... It's my first Lexus, my first japanese car as a matter of fact. As I have mentioned before, I want to replace everything so that I have a good baseline with the car. After this massive tune up, I hope that I can go another 90K without much problems. This car does have the stalling out problem at the toll booths or off the exit ramp. The car will stall out unless I have the A/C running. Also has the driver's side seat belt tensioner is not working. The heated seat buttons work, but seats do not heat up. The car is very quiet...smoooth ride. Rides much better than my friend's 2009 Corolla she bought for $17,500. >:^) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldskewel Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Which is the correct part to buy for a 1995 LS400?1 and also 2 OR two #3s? 1) Ignition coil, ls400, sc400, w/bracket and cord, right 95-97 $92.36 $73.89 2) Ignition coil, ls400, sc400, w/bracket and cord, left 95-97 $165.04 $132.03 3) Ignition coil, ls400, sc400, coil only 95-97 $91.87 $73.50 PARTS to order: timing belt 2 idler pulleys for timing belt Water pump thermostat Transmission filter distributor rotor distributor cap crankshaft seal cam seal (2) air filter drive belt cabin air filter spark plug wire kit Denso 8 spark plugs new gas cap ($11 for gas cap seal, but $17 for entire new gas cap) 3 gallons of coolant trans fluid 12 qt Toyota Type 4 rear gear fluid Mobil 1 75W90. new battery Anything else I should replace for maintenance?? thanks! Jae You'll want 2 distributor caps and 2 rotors. There was an interesting thread recently about whether it made sense to touch the cam seals. As I recall, there were very informed people on both sides. You may be able to skip on the gas cap seal replacement until it starts leaking. Not as if it will be any harder to change later. Since it seems you're trying to hit everything you can (like I did too when I got my '91), you probably want to flush the PS fluid. My 91 takes DEXRON III for that. On the 91 there's a key filter in the rack solenoid, near the left wheel that needs to be cleaned. Not sure if your 95 has the same issue. Like many others, you may find yourself obsessing over getting the smoothest ride possible. One easy step in that direction is to replace the transmission mount (may be called a rear motor mount?). Another big, but harder step is to replace the 2 engine mounts. I did all 3 at once, and it really made the car feel like new. I've got a few of the parts you might need, listed on http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=53436 (I overbought when giving the car an overhaul after buying it) Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRK Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Why are you replacing the ignition coils? They either work or they don't. If you get caught up in the "replace it while you are there" mentality, you'll be driving a clapped out Hyundai soon..... If it ain't broke don't fix it - and you'll save your money until the CAR decides it's broken, and not you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w140amg Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 oldskewel. I wish I had seen your ad before I ordered my parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 Why are you replacing the ignition coils? They either work or they don't.If you get caught up in the "replace it while you are there" mentality, you'll be driving a clapped out Hyundai soon..... If it ain't broke don't fix it - and you'll save your money until the CAR decides it's broken, and not you. Haha, I have a bad case of shipwright's disease as you described. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w140amg Posted February 28, 2009 Author Share Posted February 28, 2009 How can you tell if the engine and transmission mounts are bad? I don't feel any jerking when I start from a stop. How many mounts are there? (2) two engine and (1) one transmission? Don't ignition coils go bad with age? Mine is 14 years old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRK Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 Haha, I have a bad case of shipwright's disease as you described. Funny you should say that - I'm in the process of overhauling the heat exchangers on the Detroit Diesels in my boat. "that hose doesn't look too good, and a couple of clamps should be added to that, and gee whiz that stud should be changed....." Fortunately I save quite a bit on labour - like 100% - so I do it, and also because fixing stuff "at sea" is more than a pain- it's a hazard to one's health... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenLEXus Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Hey, i don't know if anyone has mentioned this, but i recently had all my major tune-up stuff done at a local toyota dealership. Had to go back 5 times and its still not right, service manager was comforting when i was complaining and stated they are not a Lexus dealership! wow. Long story short, had them fush my tranny and it was the biggest mistake i made. They put toyota type 4 fluid in and claimed the filter was not serviceable as its just a screen. So since the car was shifting like crap and was slipping i purchased a fram filter for the transmission and replaced the fluid with dexron/mercon type3, the recommended replacement fluid for type II stock systems. Also dumped a couple ounces of lucas transmission fluid treatment. Problems gone! Hope this helps one person not waste $ on flushes/as i can't imagine a "backflush" can ever be good. Also, like it has been stated on this thread, check motor/trans mounts as now they are responsible for any lack of smooth operation. Don't get rapped at the dealers like me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.