capnfred Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 I get an consistent code 14 on my 93 ES, according to the FSM its caused by a signal from the igniter not getting to the ECU, before I go into the ecu swap, I already changed the Igniter, does anyone have any advice other than take it to dealer....thats not goanna happen... I am under the opinion that as long as things are put together as the engineers designed them they will work, (spent close to 40 years in the electronics industry as a technician)....I am hoping that someone has had a similar experience. The car was purchased from a private owner that only had it short time, but had major prolems so he sold it cheap..... I got it for 800.00, and hae slowly been finding and fixing many prolems. After replacing all the bulbs in the cluster, I found that I had many faults, CEL, Airbag, ABS, and the pesky rear light fault.... the ABS turns out to be a bad wheel sensor, (fixed), the Airbag was caused by someone starting the engine with the Cluster removed... code 41, have to reset it.... the last thing other than the rear light is the CEL, also there was an idling problem, which I think I have taken care of by cleaning all the components in the intake system.... IACV, TPS, EGR, etc..... anyone have any advice..... Capn Just a quick update, the CEL went out when I repaired the hose from the cam cover to the intake hose....mmmm what does this have to do with the igniter..... anyway will drive the car for a bit and see what happens... capn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capnfred Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 Another update, 14 is staying out now, but after a reset the light comes back, getting codes, 28 (o2 sensor), and 55, (knock sensor), I believe I can check the o2 sensors from DLC1, and the knock sensor at the ED1 connector. Not sure exactly where the knock sensors are located, but they appear to be under the intake manifold. I believe the o2 sensors are located in the exhuast manifold or the downpipe... any advice is appreciated. Will search the forums to see if anyone has had similar probs. capn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capnfred Posted March 4, 2009 Author Share Posted March 4, 2009 Well, slowly but surely I am finding the problems, the latest turned out to be code 22, which is the EFI coolant temperature sensor, it to was jury rigged, and the fault was hidden. When I pulled the connector off, the male side came with the female. Prior to replacing the sensor I was also getting a tranny lite, shift solenoids, once changing the sensor the tranny lite is staying off, and more importantly rather than starting out in 2nd. it is now shifting correctly. I am off for a couple of 100 mile drive tonite, so we will see if the problems are gone. Don't understand the relationship between temperature sensor and transmission not starting in 1st. gear.... the last two problems other than minor oil leaks is a rough idle, and an intermittent code 55 ( knock sensor ), this appears to be a bad connection at ED1, the connector between the knock sensors and the ecu. I was able to temorarily fix the problem by inserting a piece of paperclip into the connector to tighten the connection, this seems to be working for now. Just wondeering if anyone out there has seen similar problems. Capn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKKMMM Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Now that is a lot of brass air fittings there is just about every type of air fitting that you could want. Wholesale prices too. I guess these could be used as small water pipe fitting also. I used some of the parts to make my babington wvo bu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capnfred Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 KKKK I am not sure what your referring to..... LOL, thiink you mite have sent the message to the wrong person. Anyway another update, finally got around to replacing the wires, and lo and behold number five connector was badly burned and was causing a misfire.....which of course set off the O2 sensor, not sure about the knock sensor issue... but anyway have been driving for about 100 miles or so, and no lites, engine purrs, except when I mash the acccelerator, then it kinda roars a bit...but a good sound. Now find all the oil leaks hope this improves the mileage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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