If I Was Going To Add A Sub In The Back Of My Es350 What Route Should

[saabkyle04]

Hi, I have an 07 ES350 with the ultra luxury package and mark levinson sound system. Overall I love the system, it has the best sound quality out of any other stereo I have ever listened to! The only thing that I hate about it is the face that the rear sub is weak. Whenever I play hip-hop tunes or jazzy music the sub distorts unless the bass is turned down really low, which then makes it not sound as good. I have already blown the woofer once and Lexus replaced it for me!!! what I want to do is keep ALL of the factory system EXCEPT for the sub in back. I want something that is going to sound good and I want it done right, without lowering the car's value or making it look tacky!

I want everyone's opinions on what would be the best avenue/equipment I should do with and how I would get it installed right.

Also, if at all possible I was hoping for one that had a kill switch that I could link to the front just in case I have folks in the car and we just listen to the factory system!

Any ideas?? Thanks a lot everyone!!

~Kyle

[GrantS]

Sorry, no suggestions, but I can sympathize. I have the stock system and I am ready to get it out and replace it with something better. Same issue with the bass. I have to turn it down low for to get rid of the distortion.

[SkyPainter]

I'm adding a sub to my 07 ES. I will build a box or boxes after I determine the best location for the 2-12" JL's I bought. I test drove it with the 2-10" I had in my 97 ES, but they didn't perform nearly as well in the new car. Some more testing will be needed. An easier way for you would be to test different sub boxes (loaded) in your car. Make sure the store you get them from has a return policy. Most of them will sound better than the stock woofer, but you need to add an amp; don't try to drive them with the stock amp. If you want to trigger the amp from the front, then run a wire from the remote plug on the amp when you lay the power and signal lines and hook up a switch. The downside to this approach is that the amp stays on as long as the switch is on; a good recipe for a dead battery if you forget. A better option would be a line level volume control. You can hook one up with a volume control knob from any electronics parts store (ie: radio shack), but these will degrade over time and can cause spikes (popping) that can damage your amp and/or subs. A better option is an electronic volume control like the CL-RLC that JL offers. Just pass the signal through this cable and you'll have control over the amp without worrying about the power switch.

As far as looking tacky, that will be up to you. I don't know how your tastes run, but unless you want to build your own box or have professional install it, you will be limited by what you can find pre-built. A good installer will be able to give you whatever you want, but of course that will cost more.

Finally, a well installed (and sounding) system shouldn't detract from the value of the car; if you're worried about that, then make sure any mods you do are reversible. Good luck.

[saabkyle04]

I'm adding a sub to my 07 ES. I will build a box or boxes after I determine the best location for the 2-12" JL's I bought. I test drove it with the 2-10" I had in my 97 ES, but they didn't perform nearly as well in the new car. Some more testing will be needed. An easier way for you would be to test different sub boxes (loaded) in your car. Make sure the store you get them from has a return policy. Most of them will sound better than the stock woofer, but you need to add an amp; don't try to drive them with the stock amp. If you want to trigger the amp from the front, then run a wire from the remote plug on the amp when you lay the power and signal lines and hook up a switch. The downside to this approach is that the amp stays on as long as the switch is on; a good recipe for a dead battery if you forget. A better option would be a line level volume control. You can hook one up with a volume control knob from any electronics parts store (ie: radio shack), but these will degrade over time and can cause spikes (popping) that can damage your amp and/or subs. A better option is an electronic volume control like the CL-RLC that JL offers. Just pass the signal through this cable and you'll have control over the amp without worrying about the power switch.

As far as looking tacky, that will be up to you. I don't know how your tastes run, but unless you want to build your own box or have professional install it, you will be limited by what you can find pre-built. A good installer will be able to give you whatever you want, but of course that will cost more.

Finally, a well installed (and sounding) system shouldn't detract from the value of the car; if you're worried about that, then make sure any mods you do are reversible. Good luck.

Thanks a lot, That is exactly what I was thinking of doing, with having the adjuster at the front, because I am not going to want to have it on all the time. I am going to Best Buy and get it installed by a professional because I don't know anything about this stuff lol. I am looking at getting a 12" Rockford Fosgate P3 (stage 3) that is a slim design, half the size but same amount of bass. It comes in a ready made box. I am also going to get a kenwood 2-channel 1000 watt amp. it is very light if I ever need to take it out and it is 100% guaranteed to NOT void the stereo's warranty! From what I understand that will be plenty of power! What do you or anyone else think? Ik stage 3 is like the most powerful sub RF makes. I'm just going to be using it for songs and stuff that puts a greater strain on the factory system, so it doesn't go and distort and stuff like it will always do!

[Rickt350]

I installed 2 Memphis 10" subs powered by a Rockford Fosgate Punch 40, the only wire that I had to run was the main lead going from the battery to the amp, I ran my ground wire from one of the may grounding points in the trunk, clipped the 4 wires coming from the factory sub and hooked them up to the hi/lo converter I purchased, *note* the hi/lo converter I purchased also had a remote power feature built into it that powers on the amp when low current is detected from hi level input..it was a fairly short and simple job for me took about 1/2 hour in total time.