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92 Ls400 Startup Problems


XL2007

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Okay, starting from the top:

  • Had a dying starter replaced with an remanufactured OEM starter
  • The A/C condenser fans stopped working in the process
  • Replaced a broken part and patched up another
  • Car's been driving just fine for over a month

Now let's get to the beef of this problem.

I drove out of town for a good 30 miles and made a stop. Came back to the car and it wouldn't crank. At first, I thought I triggered the immobilizer on the car (which disconnects the starter circuit) by fiddling around with the door lock, because I ended up getting tripped up over which way to turn to get the car unlocked (earlier I was driving another car whose door locks/unlocks in the opposite direction). I disconnected the battery for a good couple of minutes, thinking that the anti-theft computer was on the fritz, fiddled around with fuses, found a blown 15 "CIG" fuse, then made my way to under the hood of the car, where I ended up diagnosing the problem as a bad starter relay.

Left the car, hitched a ride and went to bed. It was late night and there wasn't much I could do about it then.

Came back, new starter relay in hand. Took the advice of a former Lexus owner who was having problems out of her anti-theft system and unlocked the passenger's side door first (not that it made any difference IMHO). Put that one in.....and it cranked up with no trouble whatsoever. Drove it back home and parked it. Came back about 25 minutes later, unlocked the driver's side door, hopped in and......

........it wouldn't start.

As luck would have it, a mechanic came by and helped try to figure out this fustercluck. He thought the old relay was still good and that the problem was with the starter that was installed, or more specifically, the solenoid. The starter relay was still engaging, but the starter wasn't saying ANYTHING. No clicks (except from the relay), no nothing. Told him the circumstances of when it started (cold engine) and when it wouldn't start (hot engine, running for about 45-50 minutes). Don't think any of the other relays are bad and I'm wondering if the anti-theft is locking down the car sans alarm every time I move it. I really hope it's not the starter, seeing as I sunk about $600 in parts and labor into it in the first place.

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By the way, the battery and alternator seem to be good, as I haven't had to jump the car off in order to get it cranked and running. And as a side note, I removed one of the H3C bulbs (both are stone dead) with the intent on replacement, but never got around to doing so. I have a hard time believing that something that insignificant would cause problems. Also popped a fuse back into the empty TRAC slot, although the starting problems happened well before I did this and I doubt this would have a bearing on things either.

EDIT: I'll try starting it up with the old relay in place this afternoon. That might rule out one possible problem. If that doesn't work, then I'll try the other relay and work from there.

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Pity that no one's bothered to chime in with an answer, but I think the problem has worked it's way out for the moment.

Before starting the car up, I put the old relay back in just to see if it would work and well.......it did. Started right up with no fuss. Drove well, too.

Got it back home after a 6 mile drive and turned it off. Cranked it up a few times and it seems that the problem wouldn't show itself again. I still believe that something in the anti-theft system got out of whack and bugged out on me. Anyone who thinks differently feel free to chime in.

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Pity that no one's bothered to chime in with an answer, but I think the problem has worked it's way out for the moment.

Before starting the car up, I put the old relay back in just to see if it would work and well.......it did. Started right up with no fuss. Drove well, too.

Got it back home after a 6 mile drive and turned it off. Cranked it up a few times and it seems that the problem wouldn't show itself again. I still believe that something in the anti-theft system got out of whack and bugged out on me. Anyone who thinks differently feel free to chime in.

During those moments when it won't start, do you have trans indicator lights on? I mean, do you see the lights move from P,R,N,D,1,2,L? If the P and N don't light on dashboard then you have a faulty neutral start switch. The switch could have come aloose or its bad. Either way, you can always start by pushing hard on trans lever till the P light comes on and it will start.

good luck.

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During those moments when it won't start, do you have trans indicator lights on? I mean, do you see the lights move from P,R,N,D,1,2,L? If the P and N don't light on dashboard then you have a faulty neutral start switch. The switch could have come aloose or its bad. Either way, you can always start by pushing hard on trans lever till the P light comes on and it will start.

good luck.

I think the PRND12L indicators were lit during those times, but I will keep a close eye on them if the car decides to strand me again. <_<

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During those moments when it won't start, do you have trans indicator lights on? I mean, do you see the lights move from P,R,N,D,1,2,L? If the P and N don't light on dashboard then you have a faulty neutral start switch. The switch could have come aloose or its bad. Either way, you can always start by pushing hard on trans lever till the P light comes on and it will start.

good luck.

I think the PRND12L indicators were lit during those times, but I will keep a close eye on them if the car decides to strand me again. <_<

Even if they are lit, that doesn't rule out a faulty neutral safety switch. I had a bad one on my old car and the lights still lit up in the cluster.

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So far I haven't had any other problems out of the car. Someone on another forum mentioned the same thing happening to his BMW and chalked it up to the starter solenoid experiencing "thermal breakdown". The mechanic I spoke to also mentioned the starter solenoid possibly being bad. I hope that's not it -- otherwise I'll have to brace myself for yet another repair bill.

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