kashi125 Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 I assume that power tools have some sort of torque specification/limit, but how do you tighten a nut or bolt to a specific torque if you are using manual tools? In the manual it says everywhere "Connections should not be torqued tighter than the specified torque." and then each connection has a specified torque such as Torque: 10 N·m (100 kgf·cm, 7 ft·lbf). How do you know you are staying within these limits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 I assume that power tools have some sort of torque specification/limit, but how do you tighten a nut or bolt to a specific torque if you are using manual tools? In the manual it says everywhere "Connections should not be torqued tighter than the specified torque." and then each connection has a specified torque such as Torque: 10 N·m (100 kgf·cm, 7 ft·lbf). How do you know you are staying within these limits? Well Power tools have settings on them. I do not use my air gun etc. I use a torque wrench from Snap-on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homemechanic Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 I assume that power tools have some sort of torque specification/limit, but how do you tighten a nut or bolt to a specific torque if you are using manual tools? In the manual it says everywhere "Connections should not be torqued tighter than the specified torque." and then each connection has a specified torque such as Torque: 10 N·m (100 kgf·cm, 7 ft·lbf). How do you know you are staying within these limits? Have your arm calibrated by Snap-On. :whistles: Buy a torque wrench. . it's not that expansive. you save yourself a lot of $ when working on your car at home. a torque wrench will save even more $ and headaches when you realized that you over torqued a bolt and broke it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted July 21, 2007 Share Posted July 21, 2007 I love it when you need tires and the morons torque the tires to like 500 ft/lbs....clowns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toysrme Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 What blows your mind is that when you're actually building the engine itself it's a sin to use a torque wrench except for like externial parts (vvalve covers, etc) You meausre the stretch, not the torque. lmao. But ya. buy a torque wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G and C Johnstone Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 I thought that you just kept on tightening and tightening until the bolt went BANG! Then you backed it off a quarter of a turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kashi125 Posted July 27, 2007 Author Share Posted July 27, 2007 What blows your mind is that when you're actually building the engine itself it's a sin to use a torque wrench except for like externial parts (vvalve covers, etc)You meausre the stretch, not the torque. lmao. But ya. buy a torque wrench. Any recommendations? I was looking at Craftsman at Sears--but they seem to have mostly bad reviews... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toysrme Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 All that kind of stuff is 99% bull*BLEEP* chinese. If you want quality you have to pay atleast 250% the price of that store stuff to get into more professional oriented tools like snap-on, ati, mac etc, etc. Stuff like craftsman, kobalt, etc. The simple fact is they're all cheap crap. Honest to god you are best off now-a-days to buy all tools at Harbor Frieght with an extended warranty. You might aswell buy the cheapest cheap crap... Then when you need the random "real" tools you can afford to splurge on high quality stuff. Most people use a 2 1/2" torque wrench. High quality. Mine's a used Snap-On (18-20yo) that I got for $50-75, then payed snap-on another $100 to recondition & recalibrate it. Those are like $300+ new I do believe. The smaller 16-18" torque wrenches are OK (not as accurate but close enough) the problem is installing the major bolts. They're too small to get any amount of descent leverage on the wrench. Head bolts, axle, suspension componets, crankshaft bolts. Those things are completely useless. Sooo, if you can't outright buy a $250+ torque wrench, get a small one. Just don't expect to do leaps & bounds with them. Go rent a big torque wrench, or find a mechanic friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kashi125 Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 Thanks for the advice. 250$+ is too much for me right now--I recently started working on my own car with help from this website and the FSM's posted here. I'll see if I can buy a used Snap-on...Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toysrme Posted July 28, 2007 Share Posted July 28, 2007 np. most autopart's stores will let you rent the smaller ones for a day. But be weary of extremely high prices (they basically make u pay 2-3x retail price as an incentive for you to bring it back. hehe) you can use a smaller one, (i have one i use for external engine bolts & plugs) just don't expect to be able to do suspension pieces, or easily do head bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mburnickas Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 I LOVE my snap-on stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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