Replace Oem Stereo

[odo53]

I've got a 94 ES300 and the factory stereo has recently started to sound terrible (lots of static) for about the first 10 minutes it is on. Sounds fine once it is warmed up.

Anyway, I want to take this opportunity to update to a CD player. The problem is I can't stand aftermarket stereos. They all have far too many buttons and buzzers and flashing lights and LED renditions of dolphins dancing to the music (seriously, who thinks this @&%* up?). I want an OEM radio/CD. Big, clear buttons. Dials. Simple display...

Can the 94 stereo be replaced by a newer Lexus or Toyota unit with a CD? The newer Solara radio seems to have the same size & shape, anyone tried this?

eBay Solara radio

Does the 94 Camry have the same non-Din opening?

Do the aftermarket faceplates look reasonable?

Thanks.

[dcfish]

I've got a 94 ES300 and the factory stereo has recently started to sound terrible (lots of static) for about the first 10 minutes it is on. Sounds fine once it is warmed up.

Anyway, I want to take this opportunity to update to a CD player. The problem is I can't stand aftermarket stereos. They all have far too many buttons and buzzers and flashing lights and LED renditions of dolphins dancing to the music (seriously, who thinks this @&%* up?). I want an OEM radio/CD. Big, clear buttons. Dials. Simple display...

Can the 94 stereo be replaced by a newer Lexus or Toyota unit with a CD? The newer Solara radio seems to have the same size & shape, anyone tried this?

eBay Solara radio

Does the 94 Camry have the same non-Din opening?

Do the aftermarket faceplates look reasonable?

Thanks.

Is there a CD button on the face of the headunit ? And check in the trunk on the drivers side behind the trunk liner, There should be a wiring harness way up towards the top of the wheel well.

[blk_on_blk]

Man, I don't know about this endeavor. As far as I'm concerned, replacing a factory head unit with another factory headunit is like replacing a dud with a dud... aftermarket units just have so much more to offer.

Hey, I'm totally with you on the cluttered displays. I'm in the process of replacing the Clarion that came in my ride... it's a testimate to horrible ergonomics and confusing displays... but there are some head units out there giving you what you want. Here are a couple:

http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_co...=&catid=317

and

http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_co...=&catid=317

Both of these are pretty clean... big rotary knobs, minimal display, but then with a remote, good power, accessibilty to install amps/subs/more. Plus, when you replace the brick of a head unit in your 94, the install kit gives you a little storage tray below the headunit... kind of corny, but incredibly useful.

If you try to put in another model head unit, the connections may line up, but I highly doubt the trim will line up, and you'll probably end up with gaps all around the head unit. Best bet is to go aftermarket... I'm sure you can find what you want.

BTW, I went with one of the JVC models... it was $99 at Etronics (it's hard to bead Etronics... they have free ship when you pay with Paypal). Most newer aftermarket head units have variable color displays (even the simplistic readouts) so you can match your dash lights, and they have head units in silver, black, more to match your interior. Again, I'm with you on the big overwhelming displays, but there are head units out there that don't have that... ya just gotta look for 'em.

[mrbutz1]

Man, I don't know about this endeavor. As far as I'm concerned, replacing a factory head unit with another

You can check out eBay. It seems folks are selling OEM decks (used) with CD controls...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS-ES300...1QQcmdZViewItem

[Aikibro]

Man, I don't know about this endeavor. As far as I'm concerned, replacing a factory head unit with another

You can check out eBay. It seems folks are selling OEM decks (used) with CD controls...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS-ES300...1QQcmdZViewItem

For folks who have replaced their OEM radios with aftermarkets, did you find it a noticeable upgrade from the OEM? I've got pretty decent sound coming from my stock radio on my 97 ES but I'm seriously contemplating an aftermarket rather than tinkering with fixing the display issues on my OEM. Please advise.

[blk_on_blk]

'If an aftermarket sounds better than OEM' is kind of a loaded question. What I mean is if you compare a low-end aftermarket stereo to a premium OEM stereo, it's probably not going to sounds as good. If you go with an aftermarket stereo, definitely go with an "upgrade". What I mean by that is look for decent power (40-50 watts per channel) with 4-channels and some RCA outputs if you want to 'enchance' your stereo with an amp or subwoofers at a later date.

Now comes the second part, the speakers. If you upgrade your head unit to aftermarket, you will want to upgrade your speakers to match, too. That is the key in any stereo system: "matching". Match the power of the head unit to the power of the speakers. If the speakers can't handle the power, you'll overdrive them. If they require more power than your head unit (or amp) will provide, then you'll underdrive them. Either way the sound won't be pleasing.

High end OEM systems sound so 'good' because they are matched. They don't really drive much power or have the 'uumph' of a decent aftermarket system, but they do have a nice sound to them. You won't feel the 'kick' from a Styx song, nor the clarity and distinction of a flute in an orchestra, but the overall sound will be pleasing. It's like going from regular TV to high-def... you don't know what you're missing until you experience it.

From the many, many stereos I've installed, I've come around to find a nice balance is getting a good head unit, like a 50watt 4-channel, and driving some good mid-level speakers (off the head unit alone).... components are best. Then, if you have a sub-woofer output designated in the head unit, you can run a small sub for balanced sound. The reason I say a designated sub output is because it can get kind of muddy if you don't, and it's difficult to get the right gain on the amp so the sub ramps with the rest of the speakers when the volume is increased. This is probably the cleanest, simplest, and cheapest system you can buy.

I'm redoing the system in my ES. I'm dropping the dash-screamer speakers, and the tiny-tweets in the door. I'm running some nice Polk 2-ways in the door (no components on this system), some Boston Acoustic 2-way 6x9s in the rear deck (3-way speakers are kind of a mis-nomer, and 4-way are a joke), a sub/amp in the trunk, and a 50-watt JVC head unit. All together the system is just under $500 with all new equipment. It won't shake the neighborhood, but it'll rock the car ;-)

[blk_on_blk]

Just a note, if you upgrade the factory stereo, you'll want to by pass the factory amp... it's under the front passenger seat.

[ramsfan907]

how do you bypass the factory amp? im going to be installing an aftermarket head unit

[Aikibro]

'If an aftermarket sounds better than OEM' is kind of a loaded question. What I mean is if you compare a low-end aftermarket stereo to a premium OEM stereo, it's probably not going to sounds as good. If you go with an aftermarket stereo, definitely go with an "upgrade". What I mean by that is look for decent power (40-50 watts per channel) with 4-channels and some RCA outputs if you want to 'enchance' your stereo with an amp or subwoofers at a later date.

Now comes the second part, the speakers. If you upgrade your head unit to aftermarket, you will want to upgrade your speakers to match, too. That is the key in any stereo system: "matching". Match the power of the head unit to the power of the speakers. If the speakers can't handle the power, you'll overdrive them. If they require more power than your head unit (or amp) will provide, then you'll underdrive them. Either way the sound won't be pleasing.

High end OEM systems sound so 'good' because they are matched. They don't really drive much power or have the 'uumph' of a decent aftermarket system, but they do have a nice sound to them. You won't feel the 'kick' from a Styx song, nor the clarity and distinction of a flute in an orchestra, but the overall sound will be pleasing. It's like going from regular TV to high-def... you don't know what you're missing until you experience it.

From the many, many stereos I've installed, I've come around to find a nice balance is getting a good head unit, like a 50watt 4-channel, and driving some good mid-level speakers (off the head unit alone).... components are best. Then, if you have a sub-woofer output designated in the head unit, you can run a small sub for balanced sound. The reason I say a designated sub output is because it can get kind of muddy if you don't, and it's difficult to get the right gain on the amp so the sub ramps with the rest of the speakers when the volume is increased. This is probably the cleanest, simplest, and cheapest system you can buy.

I'm redoing the system in my ES. I'm dropping the dash-screamer speakers, and the tiny-tweets in the door. I'm running some nice Polk 2-ways in the door (no components on this system), some Boston Acoustic 2-way 6x9s in the rear deck (3-way speakers are kind of a mis-nomer, and 4-way are a joke), a sub/amp in the trunk, and a 50-watt JVC head unit. All together the system is just under $500 with all new equipment. It won't shake the neighborhood, but it'll rock the car ;-)

This is really good stuff Blk on Blk...and much appreciated. In the past I've installed a couple radios in my cars, but otherwise I'm a rank novice. I'll probably opt to have the radio/speakers professionally installed this time, but I'll definitely utilize the specs you mention in making my purchase selection. The radio will definitely be an 'upgrade'...thus I'll take your advice on matching the speakers as well. Should I replace the Sub on the rear deck you think? I mean, with upgrades all around, will this subwoofer be sufficient if I crank up the volume on a system driven completely by the head unit or should I upgrade with a matching amp to guarantee the sound quality at higher volume?

[blk_on_blk]

Hey Ramsfan907, bypassing the amp is not too tough. If I remember right, one plug has the incoming wires, the other has the power and outgoing speaker wires (and there was another blue plug that just got disconnected... I think it had to do with hands-free system). The outgoing powered wires are coded that same as all normal speaker wires (white, white with gray for one speaker, green and green with gray for another speaker, etc). Those are pretty easy to track down with a multimeter if you don't have an identified wiring harness, too (they are also heavier gauge wire than on the other plugs). Once you find the speaker wires, you need to clip them (or tin the wire ends to poke into the harness slots if you don't want to cut them). Then you need to run new wires from the amp location under the carpet to the head unit.

Hey Aikbro! You're going to have a bit of a different situation. I'm sure you have a separate amp for the sub (or it's built into the main speaker amp). If you have an aftermarket stereo installed, they'll bypass the amp. If you want to keep the sub, then you'll have to find (or have the installer find) the inputs to the sub amp... then you need to have the line-levels (RCA) outputs from the new head unit run to the inputs on the sub amp.

A few things you'll need to check is if the factory amp is a single channel amp. Also, if the amp has internal crossovers, or if the crossingover was done in the head unit, or if there is an inductor on the sub to cut off the upper frequencies. That's a lot to check. My suggestion would be to pull out the factory sub, put in a more beefy sub, run a mono amp (or a two-channel in a bridged arrangement), to power that amp. That'll mean new RCA lines run back to the amp. If you are doing that, then either get an amp with a subwoofer crossover switch, or a head unit with a subwoofer output. Just to note, the factory sub woofer is a free-air sub, meaning it uses the trunk as an accoustical chamber... if you pump up the power and put in a harder hitting sub, you're probably going to rattle everything in your trunk... a little damping cloth might be in order.

I know that's a ton of info. If any of this is confusing, just drop me a note.

[Aikibro]

Hey Aikbro! You're going to have a bit of a different situation. I'm sure you have a separate amp for the sub (or it's built into the main speaker amp). If you have an aftermarket stereo installed, they'll bypass the amp. If you want to keep the sub, then you'll have to find (or have the installer find) the inputs to the sub amp... then you need to have the line-levels (RCA) outputs from the new head unit run to the inputs on the sub amp.

A few things you'll need to check is if the factory amp is a single channel amp. Also, if the amp has internal crossovers, or if the crossingover was done in the head unit, or if there is an inductor on the sub to cut off the upper frequencies. That's a lot to check. My suggestion would be to pull out the factory sub, put in a more beefy sub, run a mono amp (or a two-channel in a bridged arrangement), to power that amp. That'll mean new RCA lines run back to the amp. If you are doing that, then either get an amp with a subwoofer crossover switch, or a head unit with a subwoofer output. Just to note, the factory sub woofer is a free-air sub, meaning it uses the trunk as an accoustical chamber... if you pump up the power and put in a harder hitting sub, you're probably going to rattle everything in your trunk... a little damping cloth might be in order.

I know that's a ton of info. If any of this is confusing, just drop me a note.

Yeah everything up to free-air sub was kind of a blur, even after a third read, lol. I'll probably get some Dynamat for the doors and trunk when I upgrade the speakers, for now I keep everything in the trunk(cleaning supplies etc.) in a single carboard box, so hopefully there won't be too much rattling going on.

Here's the radio I got

Pioneer DEH-P4900iB...50-watts, 4-Channels.

I'll post some before and after pics and updates as I go along. Thanks for the help, don't be surprised if you get a PM or two with some Q's.

[blk_on_blk]

That's a very nice choice! I like the newer head units with the clean displays, easy to access controls, and gotta love the rotary encoder. I've found knobs work so much better than buttons in cars. Again, very nice choice.