Codes 91128, And 0110

[#1gs300]

hi does any body know what i have to do for these codes p0110 IAT (intake air temp), and p1128 Throttle control motor lock malfunction Please help

[GuyTelefunken]

p0110

p1128

[#1gs300]

hey guy thanks for the info, will a autozone obd2 meter work well while i check this out, the autozone obd2 is the 1 that came up with these codes. Also if it is my throttle control motor is it a diy type job or does lexus have to do it. Also what program are u using to find this stuff out ur a lot of help. I may want to get thet program

[#1gs300]

Hi guy i took my ohm meter and checked the ohms, and it read 1.3 ohm. I see that the throttle position switch is connected to the motor should i get a mechanic to do this or do it my self. Also i plugged it back up and turned the key on and heard a loud whinning noise is that a sighn of it being bad.

[GuyTelefunken]

Any OBDII compliant scantool should show the air temperature in the DATA section.

The throttle plate motor is most likely not going to be available as a service part. Lexus would have you replace the entire throttle body. This of course comes at a cost in the $800.00 to $1,000.00 range MSRP.

I would look for a used one if you need one. There are dirrerent part numbers based on the production date of the vehicle.

MY1998 thru 1/98 22030-46120 $993.34 MSRP

2/98 thru MY2005 22030-46150 $857.11 MSRP

*MY = Model Year

I've attached the instructions for changing/servicing the throttle body. If you have any idle issues or have disturbed the throttle position sensor during installation, the instructions include how to calibrate it. This requires the OBD!! scantool as well.

Throttle Body Instructions

The program I am using is the Lexus Factory Service Manual. You can get IT on Ebay.

Pay attention to what you are getting, they are virtually all knockoffs with some being better than others.

If the loud whining noise is coming from the throttle motor, I'd say it's not a good sign.

[#1gs300]

Hey guy i hope they i could just by the 1 componet and not the whole throttle body if i am able to do that will it be an easy install. Also i think all this stuff happened 1 day i was cleaning mythrottle body and i was using a rag and a long screw driver to open and close the plate , then i remembered some 1 had a diy write up on thisso then after i did it the way that i did i went to turn the key in the on position moved the accelarator cable to move the plate and all of a sudden the plate closed on me i let the accelarator cable go and reopened it andand i was able to get my screw driver back out, after that i put everything back together and started the car up then i got the vsc, vcs off lights, dont know if the check engine light came on because i have a picture of my son over where the light would appear to come on @. i resetted the ecu and didnt get the lights back, that was 3 weeks ago, so i went to auto zone just to get the obd2 meter put on because i read a post saying that just because u get the lights to go out by ressetting the ecu doesnt mean the problem is corrected so thats when i went to the zone to get the car checked out.

Also do u think the auto zone MAF sensor is good enough for the car or should i get it from the dealer.

Sorry for the run on sentences, but i really appreciate ur help.

[GuyTelefunken]

The throttle motor is not available as a service part. Look for a used one. I would suggest against just replacing the motor. It is possible that you damaged the clutch or gear(s) by what I have read.

If you want to dissassemble it and try to see if there is anything fixable wrong with it, go for it. But remember, if not done right, the car will be dangerous if drivable at all.

As far as the MAF, the easiest place you will find it is a Lexus dealer. I checked four places and none of them carry it. It's $190.40 MSRP from 98-00. From 01-05 it's $145.04.

[#1gs300]

HI GUY I DID SOME CALLING AROUND I CALLED LEXUS OF WILMINGTON PART WAS 292.00, AND LEXUS OF HAVERTOWN PART WAS 325.00, ALSO I GOT MY L-TUNED EXHAUST IN SO I CALL CARSON TOYOTA IN CALIFORNIA AND LUIS SAID THAT THE PART WOULD BE 20% CHEAPER THAN WHAT LEXUS CHARGES, BY BEING A CLUB LEXUS MEMBER. i DO RECALL READING THAT SOME ONE HAD TO REPLACE THEIRS AND THEY GOT IT FROM CARSON I BELEIVE FOR 206 I BELEIVE, BUT ANYWAY I HOOKED UP WITH MY MECHANIC, IM SUPPOSE TO GO TO HIS SHOP IN THE A.M. SO WE COULD RUN THE TESTS THAT U PROVIDED FOR ME BECAUSE HE HAS THE SNAP ON SCAN TOOL AND I WASN'T SPENDING 280 DOLLARS ON THE ACTRON CP96145 I BELEIVE THATS THE WRIGHT MODEL #, AND THEN POSSIBLY HAVE TO KICK OUT ANOTHER 300 TO 500 DOLLARS TO GET THE PARTS IF SOMETHING IS WRONG. ALSO I WENT BACK TO AUTO ZONE TODAY SO THEY COULD ERASE THE CODES AND IVE BEEN DRIVING AROUND PRACTILY ALL DAY AND I HAVENT HAD ANY LIGHTS COME UP. I'LL KEEP U INFORMED TOMORROW OF WHAT WE FIND.

THANKS

[GuyTelefunken]

The part you are referring to, are you speaking of the motor for that price or the entire assembly? If you can get the motor (my supplier may have been incorrect?) I would still recommend against it, unless you are sure that it is all you need.

By jamming the screwdriver in the throttle plate several things may have happened:

The ECM disengaged the magnetic clutch the couples the throttle plate to the gear train and stopped the motor. The drive gear on the motor may have been damaged. In this case, a new motor will fix you if the gear is included with the new motor.

Another gear in the geartrain may have been damaged. In this case, a motor will not help you.

Replacing the motor alone is risky and somewhat expensive if there is other damage to the gears. This is why I suggested a used throttle body assembly.

It would be wise to remove the motor first and check the gears condition. You should find the procedure in the pdf's.

If you're not having any drivability concerns and no codes are recurring, you may in fact have no problem. You did mention "a loud whining noise." If this noise continues it is indicitive of either a stripped gear(s) or the motor itself.

Good luck on whatever route you choose.

[#1gs300]

hi guy i took my car to the mechanic, we did the tests on the iat, and the throttle motor. as far as the IAT we did the test all te way up to test #3 being as though test #'s 1,2 where fine. #3 the 1 that says check for open in harness or ecm that test came as 284 degrees, but there are no codes when everything is back to gether, would u be kind enough to do the same test on ur car and see if u get the 284 degrees result so what it is saying is replace ecu harness, im not getting any difference in performance or anything unless i had this problem for 4,5 yrs when i brought the car. As far as the p1128 on the scan tool the iat temp was 99.5 degrees, i know that the instructons say 100ohms @ 68 degrees, but @ 99.5 degrees i toke my multimeter and it read 1.3 ohms. the same as it read the other day when i got off work open my garage the car was not ran. Now as far as the throttle position sensor's position it was reading 13.6 at first so he adjusted it @ 15.6 on the nose when the car is @ idle, and (warmed up) it was 13.6, also with the car off @ wot it read 79.7. Could u do those tests and let me know as far as the iat #3 test. Thanks

[GuyTelefunken]

I don't really clearly understand a lot of what you wrote nomatter how I read it.

If the thermometer in your garage says 90 deg. F. what does the scantool indicate under air temperature? If it's close to the same, you're good.

You say the instructions say 100 ohms @ 68 deg. F. I don't read the chart that way. I see +/- 2000 ohms @ 68 deg. F or about 1500 ohms at 99 deg. F.

If your reading of "1.3" is actually 1.3K ohms (1300 ohms) it is ok.

[#1gs300]

Hi Guy

To clarify what i was talking about.

#1- This is your post:

If the thermometer in your garage says 90 deg. F. what does the scantool indicate under air temperature? If it's close to the same, you're good.

*This is what im saying:

As far as the write up in post #2 about code p0110 (iat) I couldn't do this in my garage because i dont have a scan tool. when i went to the mechanics shop we did this test on the scan tool it read 99.5 degrees when i talked about this particular temp it was reffering to code p1128 i used that IAT for a guide line to determine what my throttle control motor temp may be @ the mechanic shop only because it states in the instructions of testing the ohms for this particular unit that (resistance 0.3~ 100ohms @ 20 degrees celsius 68 degrees fahrenhiet).

As far as the garage i was just trying to say i came home from work opened the garage up the car didnt run all day i did the ohms test it came up 1.3 ohms on the multimeter, and the same 1.3 ohms came up the day i took it to the mechanics shop.

#2-This is ur post:

You say the instructions say 100 ohms @ 68 deg. F. I don't read the chart that way. I see +/- 2000 ohms @ 68 deg. F or about 1500 ohms at 99 deg. F.

If your reading of "1.3" is actually 1.3K ohms (1300 ohms) it is ok.

*This is what im saying:

If u look @ the info u gave me in post #2 about p1128 the first test. this is what i was going by. Resistance 0.3~ 100ohms @ 20 degrees celsius 68 degrees fahrenhiet. I really dont understand it i had my multimeter on regular ohms, not killi ohms, or milli ohms. I'm sorry for the confusion guy i was in a rush when i typed this stuff in my last post. The (+/- 2000 ohms @ 68 deg. F or about 1500 ohms at 99 deg. F) is for p0110 (IAT). Could u do the 3rd test for code p0110, and the 1st test for code p1128 on ur car and tell me what u get guy. Thanks alot man.