Remote Oil Filter

[jjeffrey]

I have been using a bypass oil filter on vehicles for over 40 years. I have looked for a location to install a bypass filter under the hood of my 2002 es300. Need about 4 1/4" X 7 1/8", which is about the size of a roll of toilet paper.

Has anyone ideas/pictures for a location?

[mburnickas]

I have been using a bypass oil filter on vehicles for over 40 years. I have looked for a location to install a bypass filter under the hood of my 2002 es300. Need about 4 1/4" X 7 1/8", which is about the size of a roll of toilet paper.

Has anyone ideas/pictures for a location?

I asked myself the samething 4 years ago for the same reaso. I figured I would have to design a bracket off the rad or frame. Either up front or underneath.

I will bump it since I would also like to know.

[Toysrme]

Anywhere! There's always room!

That's how I did mine. on my 3vz-fe.

[jjeffrey]

Anywhere! There's always room!

That's how I did mine. on my 3vz-fe.

What kind of bypass filter did you use - brand/model? Evidentally there is more room under your hood than mine.

Since my first post I have made a bracket that fits between the radiator & engine. The bracket will fasten down without any holes being drilled. The adapter is a perma-cool and also installs without any holes being drilled. I have one or two welds to make to the bracket. This should be done in a week. Everything is tight and there is only one place to install an upright filter (at least in a 02 es300).

The purpose of my post was to help in the gunk or gelling up of the engines. The depth filter will clean the oil to better than new specs as far as particles. If the filter is changed every 3000 miles the detergent package will not be depleted. The inside of the engine will be "clean". All sludge will cleaned up where the oil flows. The filter will filter down to one micron.

Oh yes, engine wear -- this is greatly reduced. The last car I had with valves that had to be adjusted every 15,000 miles never needed a valve adjustment in 200,000 miles. At 10,000 miles the engine used a quart of oil every 3000 miles -- the same as it used at 200,000 miles

I have one on my Toyota. If the valve cover is pulled the top of the head and inside the cover is clean -- no sludge. Clean oil will greatly extend the life of oil seals. A clean engine will also give slightly better gas mileage.

If there is any interest, I will post some pictures.

[mburnickas]

The bypass has been talked about here and other forums like BITOG (http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?)

It looks like Toysrme did a full-flow re-located and not a by-pass filter with a full-flow....Unless Fram makes a by-pass, not that I know of.

Problem I see is there (bypass) are too costly. Add up the bypass filters, oil testing (with all elements etc), normal full flow filters, bypass itself, make up oils…..It adds up quick. It will take you years to even brake even (if you ever do). Plus a bypass not will stop sludge nor dissolve it etc. If you want to clean sludge etc, motor oil is not it. You need seaform, MMO, diesel or better LC20 or AutoRX. which Lc20 and AutoRX condition seals; oils and the others do not. Yes, synthetic oils have esters (which can clean) but the amount in oils does not do much.

IF you like a bypass stick with it and I respect that. For me I looked at it years ago and every few years, and it is cheaper to use PAO oil, good full-flow oil filter and something like LC20 in the oil. All this, I am still ahead of the bypass 8-ball on costs.

[Toysrme]

It's relocated, not bypassed. Tho if you wanted to bypass one, that's just another pair of T's, so it wouldn't bee a big deal. Maybe a check valve if you really wanted to get anal.

Most of the pretty modern Toyota engines have an internal bypass that cuts oil flow form going through the oil filter loop at higher engine speeds / oil pressures anyways. And the filters always have that internal bypass too.

The extra / bypass filters really cut down on the wear at higher miles, tho. So it seems.

Like I said on that oil filter relocation thread. That was just a $2 filter I bought to flush the oil after I rebuilt it from blowing the last headgasket.

AFA sludge & the like. The filter doesn't have much to do with it. What you worry about is how long does it take to the oil to hit a hot spot & start building up if it actually frys there. This old thing had no sludge in it. If you just change the oil out, you'll never see it. It's when you neglect them is when it gets really bad.