smithsmith Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 I am having the darndest time repairing my power steering leak! I have read the posts on the issue but nothing seems to identify my issue. I am posting a few pictures of the area that the leak is coming from hoping that someone can give me some direction. My vehicle will not pass state inspection due to the leak and my wife is going to kill me. I called the dealership and they said that it would be $95 per hour minimum of 2 for them to diagnose the car. Well my car is a 90 1st gen and I don’t want to pay 200 bucks for them to tell me what my issue is. If someone could please tell me what these parts are and where to fix them I will be so blessed. The first pic is where the leak is somming from and the last pic is just capped off I dont know why?? Please help if you can and have a truly blessed day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ko90ls Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 Mr. Smith that is the good old fashioned idle up valve! the connector to the Air intake pipe i think controls the idle and the other one i'm not sure about. but i am sure that Lexus charged me about $40 bucks for the tube. the Idle up valve should cost about $95. and the hose connecting to the intake i'm not sure about. GET THE IDLE UP VALVE ASAP. the hoses do connect to those capped off spots directly, which explains why they are capped. More than likely the Idle Up Valve is bad and that's why they are disconnected. Good Luck! One more thing the port on the valve that is closer to the front of the car connects to the front of the intake chamber (chamber not pipe). the one closest to the back of the car to the pipe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threadcutter Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 Mr. Smith that is the good old fashioned idle up valve! the connector to the Air intake pipe i think controls the idle and the other one i'm not sure about. but i am sure that Lexus charged me about $40 bucks for the tube. the Idle up valve should cost about $95. and the hose connecting to the intake i'm not sure about. GET THE IDLE UP VALVE ASAP. the hoses do connect to those capped off spots directly, which explains why they are capped. More than likely the Idle Up Valve is bad and that's why they are disconnected. Good Luck! One more thing the port on the valve that is closer to the front of the car connects to the front of the intake chamber (chamber not pipe). the one closest to the back of the car to the pipe! smith: ko's correct in everything he's told you. Do a search on this site for "Air Control Valve" & you'll find previous posts that list the P/N, cost & places to purchase it. Two that come to mind are Park Place Lexus & the other is Iron Toad. I seem to remember that someone bought an ACV from Iron Toad for about $65.00. Ps; when my wife is voacl about thinking she can do a better job, quicker, & for less money, I just turn around, hand her a wrench & walk away...........................Sooner or later, they all learn................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithsmith Posted March 30, 2006 Author Share Posted March 30, 2006 Why does the ACV cause the power steering fluid to leak????? Please help Why does the ACV cause the power steering fluid to leak????? Please help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threadcutter Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 smith: Why does the ACV cause the power steering fluid to leak????? The ACV doesn't cause leaks. The leaking ACV is an indication of excessively high P/S Fluid pressure. Please do a search for P/S System leaks, also P/S Solenoid. A bunch of us have written encyclopedias on this board on this subject. There is more to this than just the ACV. Read up, come back & ask questions to your hearts content. There's lots of us here that are very happy to help. Get on it, you have an "at risk" alternator.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryp Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 Remove the idle control valve and find a bolt with matching threads (not as easy as it sounds cause it takes a big short bolt). Plug the hole with the bolt and copper washer. Leaks are gone. Obviously doesn't solve any other issues you may have like clogged solenoid filter, but it's a cheap and effective fix for the immediate problem. The bolt will be a lot less than the $95 ICV. Performed this lobotomy on mine a couple of years ago and have had no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithsmith Posted March 31, 2006 Author Share Posted March 31, 2006 Remove the idle control valve and find a bolt with matching threads (not as easy as it sounds cause it takes a big short bolt). Plug the hole with the bolt and copper washer. Leaks are gone. Obviously doesn't solve any other issues you may have like clogged solenoid filter, but it's a cheap and effective fix for the immediate problem. The bolt will be a lot less than the $95 ICV. Performed this lobotomy on mine a couple of years ago and have had no problems. Thank you all for your help with this. Larry, Where did you find the bolt to plug the hole? Did you plug the hole yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threadcutter Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 smith: My vehicle will not pass state inspection due to the leak............ What is the State failing you on? If it is emissions, none of what has been suggested here will help pass emissions. The two hose nipples that you have identified in your picture as "what's this"? are vacuum lines. They have little, if anything to do with the EGR/Emission control system. BTW; There have been instances where the ACV valve has gone bad, which can allow P/S fluid to pass through it & ultimately the fluid makes it's way (through one of the two hoses that your LS doesn't presently have) into the Air Chamber. The fluid then gets ingested into the cylinders & burns along with the fuel/air mix. Talk about "Not Passing Emissions"........ Larry, Where did you find the bolt to plug the hole? Did you plug the hole yourself? Keep in mind that in all likelihood, the Pump presently is, or shortly will be leaking from one or more crack/crevices. My reason for bringing this up is that yes, the "bolt" trick works as Larry has described it. BUT, "if" there are (& there probably are) other issues in the P/S System that need to be addressed, then the pump is probably going to leak, drip fluid on the alternator & eventually kill it. Now you get to add a new alternator onto the repair bill along with everything else. If you can afford it, my suggestion is to get a New/Remanufactured P/S Pump, new ACV Valve, New Hoses, clean the Rack solenoid valve screen and flush the P/S system. You'll have a fresh start & won't be suffering from problems popping up here, there & everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryp Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Plugged it myself. Was fortunate to find something in my pile of old bolts that worked. I had tried leaving the valve on and plugging the lines but there's too much pressure. You might try a tractor dealer (John Deere, Kubota) as they often have a good selection of bolts in all sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithsmith Posted April 1, 2006 Author Share Posted April 1, 2006 Guys thanx for all of the info my ls is my baby and it is currently at 215k and I plan on pushing it well into 400!!!!!!!!! Whooa but without your help this dream would be........well just a dream>>>>>> :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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